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Thread: sub $45 Homemade chiller

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  1. #1
    Xtreme Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    404
    I'm running just about the same setup but with an Iwaki MD20rlt pump and a Temp controller. I have about 6 gallons of fluid and run my temp at 55 to 58f with no insulation. Works nice, great setup.

    Larry
    Q9650
    Asus P5Q-D Bios 1406
    280 GTX FC Block
    2x2gb OCZ Flex II PC2 9200
    Water Cooled/ Iwaki MD20/ D-Tek Fuzion
    XFX 850 Watt
    OWC SSD

  2. #2
    Xtreme Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Philly
    Posts
    198
    looking good dr dx

    Now you just have to exercise some self-control.....cause, you know....you're gonna wanna go colder now
    Mobo: eVGA x58 Classified (759)
    CPU: i7-990x
    GPU: 2xGTX 580
    Cooling: F1 Gemini/Tek-9 Fat LN2 | 12k BTU Chiller HK 3.0/DD Water Block
    RAM: 3 x 2gb DDR3 Crucial Ballistix Tracers
    HD: OCZ LE SSD 100GB | OCZ Vertex 2 SSD 60GB
    PSU: PC Power & Cooling 1200W
    OS: Win7 64-Bit | XP Pro
    Monitor: Dell 2707 LCD

  3. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    95
    Nice setup.

    After this winter, I plan to use an A/C for my room. I don't want it to be noisy, so I decided that instead of running it as a Window A/C, I'll convert it into a mini-split, and house the compressor outside, running an insulated line to the evaporator, which will be inside the room.

    At that point, I can either run air through the evaporator and duct that to my PC-radiator, or simply CHILL a Quick-Disconnect water reservoir with it.

    If I chill my PC water loop, then the radiator will act as a secondary evaporator. The air through the radiator will be chilled, and that air will decrease the case ambient air temperature, and disperse into the room as intended, fulfilling the original purpose of the A/C.

    If I disconnect the reservoir (using Koolance QD's), then the radiator will still function as part of a normal ambient cooling loop.

    Some insulation will be needed, but if the case air is close enough to the radiator's temperature, then it'll be manageable (I've worked with phase-change before). I think I can come up with some creative solution for this.

    The heat from the PC-water loop will be directly absorbed by the A/C, and most of the noise will be outside. The A/C's cooling capacity should still be used effectively assuming minimal losses to insulation. I have an electronic temperature control solution in mind - this is going to be used to cool the ROOM and the water, so I'll need to come up with a well-balanced plan.

    Anyway - that is a lot of work to get in-room A/C, but I can't find much fault in it other than a major PITA if I want to move the setup to a different room. I'll choose a 5-6K BTU A/C with a high EER (11.0 or higher)... so far I've found that Frigidaire makes one for about $150.

    I think it will work fine, especially because I don't intend to run subzero temperatures (I still want to run distilled water + silver coil).

    I hope that gave you (or anyone) some ideas.

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