Sorry to hear the latest UD3R doesn't like your L5640's.
It's all in the bios imo. check here regularly for the lastest updates :
http://www.jzelectronic.de/jz2/index.php
As a workaround , try to overclock using Easytune6.
I always set the voltages in the bios and boot with whatever BCLK is possible.
Once in Windows , jack up the BCLK and save your profile.
I've been wondering about those A0's..
I know B0's work with the UD3 but never tried A0's
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Originally Posted by Frisch
My Westmeres work fine in the UD3R rev 1.0 & 1.6.
It's the UD3R rev2.0 that's having issues apparently... immature bios imo
I just looked back at my last set of pics; pretty obvious
Seems just to be plain bad immature bios's for the Rev 2.0 UD3R's at this point; even a retail 980x B1 has the same problems as my L5640's A0's. I have confidence that Gigabyte will work this out... and probably (hopefully quickly.) I know what settings are needed for my L5640 OC's (1.2Vcore under load and 1.32v bios QPI for 18x205.) For now I have other issues to sort out.
Todays Progress:
1) This morning I installed Archlinux on a 980x B1 to see if I had better CPU usage than my Debian install. Well... same problem, My Arch install bounces around just the same, right now even more than the Debian machine; no normal recurring errors and Debian stopped throwing segfaults. Total CPU usage averages ~93%. Maybe I need to look at setting up Schedtool to force Boinc task into a higher priority. Also, Arch didn't reconize my 980x properly, It only see's 8 threads. I'm waiting for some results from this machine to hit the stats pages so I can show off my 8 threaded 980x
So... still more Linux work to be done. I think as Shoota said, if everything went so easy what would I have to do
2) Started to build my Radiator housing today, the Radiators are going to be mounted horizontally just like shown; fans will be in the top of the box, and there will be a shroud to exhaust the hot air out the window below the radiators.
And this is just for a quickie mockup, the top of the box will be closed, hose holes will be drilled for the connections and fans in the top of the box.
3) Heres a rough diagram of how I plan to do the WC system; I'm borrowing what I hope are the most suitable features for me from Fallwind and Naja's Builds. Into the sides of the Res's i'm going to attach a PVC ball joint and cap that and install a Barb for 1/2" I.D. tubing. The idea being that the entire system is somewhat modular and I can shutoff the water to one pump (probably a 655 with 3 Enzotech Saphire CPU blocks on it.) Then I can work on that one sub loop while the rest of the system can keep running. I got this idea from one of Naja's builds were he had ball joints in his lines to shut them off individually. Res1 will be mounted above the radiators, Res2 will be mounted below the radiators and have a garden hose drain port on the bottom and the same set of ball joint + barb connectors.
4) These fans I have suck! They are out of the build, I need to find something better. They have high CFM, and since they are in my garage I wasn't worried about the noise, but I just put on on a Kill-a-Watt (let me profess my love for my Kill-a-Watt again) 100W at full speed!! for just 1 fan!! and look at the size of my Rads, I need at least 4 so... 400W for fans? No thanks! I'll try some undervolted test on the Kill-a-Watt later to see if they can some how be tamed.
Thats all for now; tomorrows agenda: keep working on the Radiator housing and air exhaust.
I've been reading this thread with fascination and thought of something that *might* save you some electricity.
If you built something like a chimney and vented it into your attic, the updraft of cooler air from the floor might be enough airflow to keep things cool. You could use the styrofoam sheeting that is used under siding to make it lightweight and inexpensive. Of course, how well it would work would depend on how well your attic is ventilated.
Even if you still needed a fan for extra oomph, you wouldn't have to worry about water coming through the window and you'd have more flexibility on the placement.
Thats a very interesting concept and I think it would work very well in cold climates. I was inspired by others mass water cooled build logs and am modifying the projects I've seen to fit my needs. Living in South Florida i'm planning for year round hot environment running. I'm going for a decent amount of fan firepower to turn over the air in my garage every few minutes or so and keep my garage temperatures under control. I plan on removing the weather stripping from the top inside edge of my garage door this weekend for an air intake. That should be ~20' x 1" so enough intake for sure.
My attic temperaturesFL sun all day long. This is what i'm planning to deal with year round:
January 74.5 F
February 75.3 F
March 79.3 F
April 82.5 F
May 85.7 F
June 88.1 F
July 89.7 F
August 90.1 F
September 88.4 F
October 84.4 F
November 79.6 F
December 75.7 F
Constantly hot but never in the 100's.
I do expect my build to be energy efficient per point. If I run a computer in my house and it dumps ~150w of heat into my home then mostly year round thats 150w of energy I have to remove with AC so I get hit twice with the power usage. With 7 hexacores going (and a lot at stock) they dump a large amount of heat into my house. By not having to pay for the extra AC to remove the heat and dumping the heat directly outside I expect to be "energy efficient per point."
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