Nubie to phase change - looking for pointers

[SteveRo]

Good morning all,

I have a SS on the way from sdumper, moving up from chilled water - 2xboreas.
This will be my first time using the generals eraser stuff - looks like it should be much easier then grease and conformal coating.
I will be using GGBT UD7/980x/DominatorGTc7(3x2GB).
Looking to increase my pcmark vantage PR - http://service.futuremark.com/search...esolution=-100
I will be following the sticky insulation guide - very well done by the way - any other words of wisdom you could pass to a nubie?
All advice most welcome!

[Rudster816]

Your post kind of lacks a question

Just dont lick the evap and you should be fine

[gosmeyer]

Just dont lick the evap and you should be fine

I'm sure Scott will answer any specific questions you have Welcome to the cold side

[SteveRo]

For testing the SS prior to connecting the the mobo - can I fire up the unit to test cooling capability (without a load that needs cooling)?

[SAE]

Why not? Builders do that as well...

[gosmeyer]

For testing the SS prior to connecting the the mobo - can I fire up the unit to test cooling capability (without a load that needs cooling)?

You can tell if it runs but not how well.

[sdumper]

I'll be back from vacation tomorrow and be able to answer any questions with more detail.
FYI: The beach was great and the FSU spring football game is today so if anyone is interested I will have lots of Florida State football pictures (Go Noles).

Anyway to answer your question it wont hurt it at all to let it run without load.
Do you want me to start a build log on Sunday as I build the unit?

[Jack]

... it wont hurt it at all to let it run without load.

Only when there's little or no floodback. Otherwise the compressor will suffer (after a while of course).

[sdumper]

I tune for little or no floodback....

[SteveRo]

Do you want me to start a build log on Sunday as I build the unit?

Fine by me if it's not too much trouble.

[sdumper]

300watts @ approx -39c
Idle zero flood back

Sc18
chilly1
r410a
Parker accum
.040 10.7 feet
3/4 hp Danfoss SC18
Condenser and base Copeland
Wood, handles, nails, Paint and insulation Lowes

[SteveRo]

Very nice Scott, thanks much for the pics, looks great!
Let me know when you ship and when I should look for it on my end.
What do you recommend as procedure for initial powerup?
Anything more complicated than attach temp meter and apply power?
Any break-in procedures?
Anything unintuitive regarding mounting?

[sdumper]

Just plug it into a dedicated surge protector power strip.
Mounting is straight forward and you need to insulate for cold.

I am sending today so it should arrive in 2 to 3 days.

[SteveRo]

Just plug it into a dedicated surge protector power strip.
Mounting is straight forward and you need to insulate for cold.

I am sending today so it should arrive in 2 to 3 days.

Excellent!
Is there a power switch on the unit or do i use the surge protector switch.

[SteveRo]

Do you include hold down h/w - bolts, springs, screws?

[sdumper]

Do you include hold down h/w - bolts, springs, screws?

Teyber kits dont have tension springs just screws and bolts and those are provided.
Use surge protector to power it on and try to use the surge protector only for the phase unit.

[SteveRo]

Teyber kits dont have tension springs just screws and bolts and those are provided.
Use surge protector to power it on and try to use the surge protector only for the phase unit.

Very good, thanks for everything.

[SteveRo]

Good morning all,
I plan to install this SS into a “lower deck” HSPC tech stations - http://www.highspeedpc.com/Merchant2...LrgTechStation
Also see my avatar to the left.
I think I have about 8 inches clearance between the two "decks".
Is this sufficient clearance to fit the cooler head and insulated head tube?
Much thanks for all your help.

[SteveRo]

I plan to conformal coat both front and back of the mobo - let it dry over night.
Then apply kneaded eraser and shop towels like here - http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=224911
Do I need to vasoline the cpu bottom or can I go w/o that for -40?

[Expat GriZ]

Do I need to vasoline the cpu bottom or can I go w/o that for -40?

Two schools of thought here Steve.....yes & no. Depends on how long the unit will be on, amount of humidity where you live...do you plan on changing the mount or will it be fixed permanently? I get the impression you will get a good mount and leave it there permanently. First time I played with my SS & RE I did put dielectric grease in the socket....in fact, its still there to this day and really can't hurt. You don't need much, use a hair dryer, etc. to warm it up so it flows around the whole socket area....be careful because these new 1366 pins are SO delicate.

Each to their own and people are in two camps. Since I've turned more to the benching scene, I don't even use the conformal coating anymore, bought it...never used it. Just tape off the cpu area, eraser & armaflex, neoprene and you're good to go. Hope this helps.

[SteveRo]

Two schools of thought here Steve.....yes & no. Depends on how long the unit will be on, amount of humidity where you live...do you plan on changing the mount or will it be fixed permanently? I get the impression you will get a good mount and leave it there permanently. First time I played with my SS & RE I did put dielectric grease in the socket....in fact, its still there to this day and really can't hurt. You don't need much, use a hair dryer, etc. to warm it up so it flows around the whole socket area....be careful because these new 1366 pins are SO delicate.

Each to their own and people are in two camps. Since I've turned more to the benching scene, I don't even use the conformal coating anymore, bought it...never used it. Just tape off the cpu area, eraser & armaflex, neoprene and you're good to go. Hope this helps.

thanks for the pointers.
I was going to use just frostyking (FK) over the eraser - both top and bottom of board. maybe two layers FK on top.