@clunk
thanks for your participation...did you measure(perhaps an infrared temp meter) the radiator body temp? measuring such would indicate water/fluid temp.... based on some radiator testing.and i860 heat output ...i'm guessing the water temps are as high as 10-20c above room temperatures...such high water temps could cause the the failure of your oc tests...i mean instead of a cold plate..you have a warm plate and the cpu would just heat up eventually...
Edit, don't want to start anything
now more on topic. I own a H50 and I may have a defective unit, but I am not happy with my results. I have a 920@4ghz 1.264v that @100%load usually runs in the low 70c on a TRUE. with the H50 my temps are in the high 80's, sometime it will even hit 90. I have remounted many times and used different tim's. However many have had great success with the H50.
I do not know how it will compare to the other unit your interested in though.
I hope that you find your answers soon though. good luck to you and it would be nice for some members to try to actually help you rather than beat around the bush or say BS like some have said.
Also sorry for my little rant at the beginning, it was in your defense though
Last edited by INFRNL; 02-07-2010 at 04:46 PM.
No worries, interested in hearing others experiences with these sort of coolers, so your input is useful.
Let all try to lay-off the arguments over off-topic things, and personal attacks though.
Thanks again.
No, I didn't measure the radiator temp, I will do that for you today and report back, but to be honest, once it failed the overclocking tests, I didn't see much point in running any more.Originally Posted by Hondacity
Are you using same fans on both?
I tried just the stock corsair fan at full speed, then replaced with 2 highspeed yate loons. granted if I run both the yates at leafblower speeds it drops down closer to 80, but I want it to be quiet. when I ran the megahalem and 1 sanace at 1800rpm, it was pretty quiet and cool, so I was hoping for similar results.
I may have a defective unit for all I know, others have gotten better results.
I know this seems like mixed results: I have run this cpu off a true and megahalem as well, megahalem giving the best results.
Sounds like you may have been a little unlucky with its build quality.
Or perhaps you need to have another run at installing it.
I have seen others post that their H50 surpassed their megahalem.
This whilst noise levels were not notably higher than their megahalem.
Granted, megahalem is no longer the air cooling king.
I can't recall where I read this now, I'll try to find it....
I'm just updating the site, it'll be back at around 7~8pm GMT.
It's back up mate, sorry about that
@Hondacity,
I did a run of prime95 yesterday for you, but even after reseating the block several times, I was unable to stop the thermal cut off kicking in, so the highest temp that I could detect on the outside of the radiator was 35c. In my opinion, it's the base that's the main problem with this particular unit, but I've also noticed that the pump ticks for a while after turning it on, so maybe there's air in there too.
35C on the rad....thats not too bad...how long did you run prime95? i'm guess that unit's pump gets warm too...instead of taking away the heat...the heat accumulates in the loop(airflow thru the rad isn't so good)...or the base of that unit ain't mounted right...i'm guess the exhaust air temperature is quite warm tooIt's back up mate, sorry about that
@Hondacity,
I did a run of prime95 yesterday for you, but even after reseating the block several times, I was unable to stop the thermal cut off kicking in, so the highest temp that I could detect on the outside of the radiator was 35c. In my opinion, it's the base that's the main problem with this particular unit, but I've also noticed that the pump ticks for a while after turning it on, so maybe there's air in there too.
could you run stock voltage...and run prime95 for maybe 30minutes to 1hr....and measure radiator temperature? maybe at even stock voltage that cooling kit under performs....
the aircoolers that you have indicate that your cpu isn't high leakage..so this coolit kit should have numbers close to those air coolers...
the corsair h50 sorta works with alot of users...i wonder why this unit suck so much...
I think its Noctua that has the greatest cooling, but its also double the size, or at least looks like it.
I have tried a reseat over and over, but I am willing one more time. I am also thinking about getting another one just to see if I see better results. If I do not see any results, I will sell them off or try it on the one cpu that runs in the low 60's with Megahalem and single low speed fan.
Has the OP found any useable answers yet? Seems like this thread is a rollercoaster and I am not helping; sorry OP
Not really, I'm trying to ascertain which of the two 240mm solutions are best, neither OEM has responded to my email queries.
It may turn out they're the same, or they could be entirely different.
At the same time some are saying that the H50 performs better than the LCLC 240mm because it has a batter block/pump.
And others say that they've read that the NQ-3590 only cools 5% better than the H50...
I haven't found evidence to corroborate any of these claims, sooo irritating....
Looking at the pictures of the NQ-3590, I can say with absolute certainty that it is the Asetek LCLC 240mm unit (same one I lined at NCIX a few posts back)
If you need a "benchmark" of its performance, just search for cooling numbers on the HP Blackbird 002 or any of the Cyberpower, Alienware, or any other boutique "liquid cooled" desktops. They pretty much all use this same 240mm unit
Corsair 700D | Watercooled Maximus V Formula | Watercooled Core i7 3770k | 16GB DDR3 2133 HyperX | 2x EVGA GTX 670 FTW SLI | 2x Intel 520 180GB RAID 0| Corsair AX1200
Then maybe this will confirm they are the same.
Yes, both are Asetek systems. Click on the JonnyGuru review link in your first link. If you go through the pics carefully, you'll see one of the pump/block unit that has the Asetek logo on the top of it.
Circles SucQ!
If your annoyed by sigs telling you to put things in your sig, then put this in your sig
Bribery won't work on me...just say NO to AT!!!
This very thread, page 2. Clicking on the little arrow next to my name in the quote will take you right to the post.
Circles SucQ!
If your annoyed by sigs telling you to put things in your sig, then put this in your sig
Bribery won't work on me...just say NO to AT!!!
Ah, now I see what you were talking about in that other thread.
I've now seen post #32 of yours in this thread...
What do you mean by: "Click on the JonnyGuru review link in your first link"
I assume you meant "..review link in your first post"?
Unfortunately I removed my OP and wrote a clearer one yonks ago.
**update**
After some 'Googling' I've found the article you're talking about:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...print&reid=119
I see what you mean but just because it still has the Asetek symbol doesn't mean it's exactly the same.
And that review was from some time ago, both parties could have made minor alterations since then.
And if my memory serves me correctly, the block looks a tad different from shots I've seen of the LCLC 240's.
I'll try to find more recent reviews/piccies of both & use that as a basis for determining the differences, if any.
Last edited by jalyst; 02-09-2010 at 07:10 AM.
Yes, this is what I was saying, the base is uneven, lumpy one way and also concave the other, so I do agree that that is a large part of the problem. I did a 2 hour run for you with Prime95 on the overclocked settings.35C on the rad....thats not too bad...how long did you run prime95? i'm guess that unit's pump gets warm too...instead of taking away the heat...the heat accumulates in the loop(airflow thru the rad isn't so good)...or the base of that unit ain't mounted right...i'm guess the exhaust air temperature is quite warm too
could you run stock voltage...and run prime95 for maybe 30minutes to 1hr....and measure radiator temperature? maybe at even stock voltage that cooling kit under performs....
the aircoolers that you have indicate that your cpu isn't high leakage..so this coolit kit should have numbers close to those air coolers...
the corsair h50 sorta works with alot of users...i wonder why this unit suck so much...
I can run the air cooler tests and get them usually within 1c of the initial tests, so I'm happy that they are accurate for my set up, I fitted and refitted the ECO several times and it's just not playing nice at all.
They are sending over a replacement, so once I have that, I'll re-run the tests and hopefully they will bring some more meaningful results. I'll do the radiator temp measurements, but first, I need to finish dissecting this ECO
Last edited by Clunk; 02-09-2010 at 07:14 AM.
Sweet!
Please let us know how things go, hopefully there's much better no's with the new unit.
Still, they shouldn't have to "cherry pick" another to send to you in the 1st place!
Clunk did they ever send you a new one, are you still planning to compare with a H50?
Cheers!
No plans to retest now, not after them trying to shift the blame onto us for the Eco fail over at VR-Zone.
I was speaking to someone today from a reputable source that bought an Eco from a UK retailer this week and it has many of the problems that our sample had, including failing the 4GHz/1.41v test, and also the razor sharp screws, so on that basis alone, I won't be revisiting the Eco at any time soon, the risk of damage to the board each time it is fitted is too great.
I'm surprised none of the big sites have done a comparison yet though?
Yeah that rep. of theirs (Barry?) is not doing them any favours with some of his silly remarks in that thread.
Got fairly solid results here, nothing spectacular of course though...
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...reviews-8.html
The most recent one I've seen was by tweaktown, but I still want to see a head2head with the H50.
RawZ in the thread above was going to do one for OCtech, but he's having trouble convincing Corsair to give him a H50.
Last edited by jalyst; 03-19-2010 at 09:30 AM.
In relation to this; I was eventually advised by NQ themselves that there's is just the latest revision LCLC 240.
But that they -naturally- can sometimes be a revision or two behind. The revisions are normally only very subtle changes.
The NQ also seems to have less availability worldwide and is generally a tad more $.
So assuming LCLC 240 is readily available for Australians; it's a toss-up between it and the H50/Eco for me.
But these three aren't my focus at the moment, so many other things I'm working on.
Last edited by jalyst; 03-19-2010 at 09:45 AM.
Same here...
But I'm even more interested in Eco C240 Vs NQ-3590 Vs 550/570LC
I guess it's pointless worrying how the 550 & 570LC compare...
As one can only get them as part of complete builds from iBuyPower etc?
The LCLC 240mm was purchasable on it's own, but this was very uncommon.
And you'd probably get zilch support from Asetek...
NQ's range has always been re-badged Asetek's....
They've previously explained that they're usually a revision or two behind.
I wonder if their NQ-3590's have migrated to the 570LC yet?
Has anyone seen any comparisons between these 3 or the H70?
Last edited by jalyst; 08-30-2010 at 11:48 PM.
I've installed a 'kit' for someone else (one that you've mentioned). I tried my best to talk him into a mcp350, mcr220, a T, and a block. He would've gotten better results. His argument was that it was more expensive, and it was.
The prebuilt felt cheap, looked cheap, and the results were less than I have grown to expect from water. Of course, only my opinion.
On another note, for awhile I had an apogee drive in an htpc. I think I bought the kit <$100. After swapping the fan, it was silent. There are many reasons to watercool.
upgrading...
Just a few comments to the OP:
I've been reading this section for almost 5 years now.
Watched water cooling parts evolve, the guys test them and honestly it's gotten to the point that if you want to do a good water cooling system it's almost mindless on what parts to choose.
Sure, there are small differences in water blocks, then performance in rads based upon pure performance or which works better with what fans but when you digest it all it's really simple and what these guys build so smokes any "prebuilt" that it's not even funny.
Sure it costs more than the prebuilts but you get what you pay for in this life and generally the systems used here last much longer than the prebuilts.
I think this is what Naekuh was trying to allude to but worded it incompletely.
Plan $300.00 fora good water cooling system and your right in the ballpark of a system that should last close to 5 years or more.
Good Luck.
Last edited by Movieman; 08-31-2010 at 04:30 PM.
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