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Thread: Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post
    I know you said there was never any alcohol or EG in there but that looks a LOT like what happens when the acrylic is exposed to either. Again, I am not doubting you, I just have made the mistake of bending a beautiful bend into a sheet of acrylic and then without thinking grabbed the denatured alcohol to wipe it down prior to painting. There is the sound of like ice breaking slowly followed by an excessive amount of cursing.

    Did you by chance clean it with windex or a baby wipe or similar? Something reacted with the plastic. Smacking it with a hammer or hurling it into the ground would generate several large fractures...not the safety glass like pattern you have.

    I would maybe agree that you have a part with a massive excess of the UV stabilizer but again...wow that's just an assload of cracking...it looks like Piper Haliwell waved her hands at it.



    Or in clear plastic ones =)

    I am considering machining a version of the delrin T3 designed to be only a single loop part and optimizing performance for said single loop. I just can't see anyone buying a version like that over the parallel loop version. The reality is that the single loop performance is still better then a stock D5 and even if your not using parallel loops now, having the ability to add them and the extra performance potential down the road is smarter.

    I am going to try to squeeze a little more single loop performance out of the dual version as thats the real answer I guess.
    No, I Didn't clean it with anything. I know about acrylics and alcohol from when I first started watercooling my PC. I think I would have done such a thing it would crack both sides I think...:P It was still crazy whne I saw it though...
    (New build):MSI Big Bang X-power II with XSPC MB blocks, Core I7 3930k@4.6Ghz with HT on, 3x GTX 480 SLI with EK Waterblocks(for now), X-fi Titanium, Gskill quad kit 16GB 2133mhz, 2x240GB Corsair GT SSD's(raid 0), 3xWD 2TB drives, Silverstone Strider ST1500 Watt, Dell3007WFP and 2x Samsung 305T's. Water loop: EK HF CPU block, XSPC RX480 Rad, Coolgate GC480, Airplex Revolution 420 Rad, 2x DDC 3.25 18W with EK dual top, Caselabs STH10 white with customizations....

  2. #2
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    Hi all,

    I brought a T3 from a e-store here in australia late last year, installed it over the christmas break and after 2 weeks it started to leak, from what appears to be the join on the right hand side. I only used distilled water and PT Nuke.
    I have put in a ticket and recieved a reply and emailed the required info with no reply, how long does it take for a replacement.

    Also is it ok to use Bits Power Compression fittings or do I still need to get different orings for them.

    Regards

    Ric

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricardo40 View Post
    Hi all,

    I brought a T3 from a e-store here in australia late last year, installed it over the Christmas break and after 2 weeks it started to leak, from what appears to be the join on the right hand side. I only used distilled water and PT Nuke.
    I have put in a ticket and recieved a reply and emailed the required info with no reply, how long does it take for a replacement.

    Also is it ok to use Bits Power Compression fittings or do I still need to get different orings for them.

    Regards

    Ric
    If I had to guess (and it is just a guess) the delay is waiting on the first full run of parts from California...they should STILL answer and let you know that though.

    It seems that the guys in here are having better luck with the larger (actually fatter) O ring when using the bits power fittings. Primo Chill is actually switching to the fatter O ring on their fittings too so the new ones *should* also do the trick with other fittings.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post
    It seems that the guys in here are having better luck with the larger (actually fatter) O ring when using the bits power fittings. Primo Chill is actually switching to the fatter O ring on their fittings too so the new ones *should* also do the trick with other fittings.
    Thanks for the reply BoxGods, I'm not quite up to speed as it been a while since I read the whole thread, currently I'm using DD 1/2'' Fat Boy barbs and they seem to do the job, but i'm thinking of going compression fittings for a neater look. Will I have to replace the orings on the Bits Power compression fittings with the newer T3's, If so with what are the size of orings as these things are more difficult to source here in aust.

    Also what's the expected longevity of these new T3's as pulling my water rig apart is a real pita.

    Regards

    Ric
    Last edited by Ricardo40; 02-09-2010 at 03:31 PM. Reason: spelling

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricardo40 View Post
    Thanks for the reply BoxGods, I'm not quite up to speed as it been a while since I read the whole thread, currently I'm using DD 1/2'' Fat Boy barbs and they seem to do the job, but i'm thinking of going compression fittings for a neater look. Will I have to replace the orings on the Bits Power compression fittings with the newer T3's, If so with what are the size of orings as these things are more difficult to source here in aust.

    Also what's the expected longevity of these new T3's as pulling my water rig apart is a real pita.

    Regards

    Ric
    DB or one of the other guys in here would know better on the O rings. Once Primo Chill has all the wrinkles ironed out with the new shop in California including annealing etc the lifespan of the T3's should be longer then you will use the PC your installing it in...as we all see on the TV, plastic lasts a zillion years in landfills etc etc

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