**Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD7 OC-Tips-Bios-Discussion Thread**

[OC Nub]

Nice 3DMark Vantage scores ...... I wish I could enable physics on my card but the games I play most do not utilize it anyway

Here is mine @4.4 with a single ATI5870 P21041 I noticed that Vantage does not correctly identify the multiplier as 21 but shows my cpu @ 4.2 with the correct bus speed of 210.

Yes I noticed the same thing, glad it isn't just me.

[emertX]

Yep I've seen that. Good job and bold attemp. You may have a better chance to get that Primestable on this MB.


I haven't seen your primestable 226x19 yet. Where is it, can I have a look at that beauty?
222x19 Primestable is the highest I could get with 19x. I've had a few short prime-run with higher BCLK, but those doesn't count as primestable in my book.

My board, but not my result, cause I didn't take a picture of mine!


Thanks to RomeoJ!!!

[Pickles24]

The new ek full board block is out, and looks amazing..


http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek...d7-nickel.html

[Supershanks]

The new ek full board block is out, and looks amazing..

Wow that looks great. Pity i have already stuck hetpipes back on :lol;

A few recent updates to Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD7 Living Review:

1) Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD7 - The naked truth


2) Voltage Measuring Points


3) 4.4Ghz 21x210 Ram x8 1,680Mhz 7-7-7-19

[MikeMK]

The new ek full board block is out, and looks amazing..

WOW! Think im gonna have to get me one of those!

[Intratech]

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dmv=1815111

[emertX]

Here my highest possible Settings with 21x Multiplier!!

[sRHunt3r]

Oc Nub, as I mentioned earlier I have a ton of watercooling parts laying around and I was thinking of setting up this i7 rig for water. Your temps look pretty good but I see you have your rad pulling from a window ac unit, have you tried running it without the window unit? How are the temps? Here is a list of the parts I have laying around that I was going to throw together :
Swiftech MCP-655
Black Ice Pro II rad (240) or Swiftech MCR220
Old Swiftech Apogee extreme Duty Block (I will buy this adapter)
Large 2 Bay Res
10' clearflex 38 tubing
The only part I would need to buy would be the adapter bracket for the Apogee and a few fittings, I would be in my home office which stays around 68F. In your opinion will I see a noticeable improvement in temps or will my i7's heatload exceed a single 240 rad?

[OC Nub]

Oc Nub, as I mentioned earlier I have a ton of watercooling parts laying around and I was thinking of setting up this i7 rig for water. Your temps look pretty good but I see you have your rad pulling from a window ac unit, have you tried running it without the window unit? How are the temps? Here is a list of the parts I have laying around that I was going to throw together :
Swiftech MCP-655
Black Ice Pro II rad (240) or Swiftech MCR220
Old Swiftech Apogee extreme Duty Block (I will buy this adapter)
Large 2 Bay Res
10' clearflex 38 tubing
The only part I would need to buy would be the adapter bracket for the Apogee and a few fittings, I would be in my home office which stays around 68F. In your opinion will I see a noticeable improvement in temps or will my i7's heatload exceed a single 240 rad?

I think it would be worth trying, you could also add the second rad to the loop if need be. I haven't tried a 240 rad so I'm not sure what kind of temps to expect. I am not that experienced at water cooling, maybe someone else will have a better idea what to expect.
I will test after work to see temps with no ac but I believe they were around 10c higher.

Did a quick run when I got home from work. With the room at 77f my temps after 5 passes LinX hit 80c. Normally the room isn't this warm but the wife is has the heat blasting.

I will be going back to my UD6 board tonight. I know this is a faster platform but I miss that board, and the platform. There are no games out that I like anymore so I have no need for cf or sli, and for a single card I prefer my UD6-870 rig.

[Mastakilla]

can some people perhaps confirm that the waterblock on the ud7 is copper and has 3/8" fittings please?

cause I'm finding some contradicting statements... (7,5mm vs 10mm outer diameter fittings)

In the gigabyte manual:
http://europe.giga-byte.com/FileList...x58a-ud7_e.pdf

For the waterblocks on the North Bridge heatsink, we recommend tubes with inner diameter of 7.5mm and outer diameter of 10mm

This implies fittings with a outer diameter of 19/64" (or more likely 5/16", since I don't think 19/64" exists)

In Supershanks review:
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/revie...html#post79973

The waterblock is copper on the UD7 unlike the aluminium ones used previously, which is a plus as most people use copper blocks, so you won't be running nixed metal blocks. There are no alternate barbs, the fittings are 3/8" (10mm) so if your using thicker tubing you'll need to use something like PrimoChill Reducing socket 13mm to 10mm (1/2' to 3/8').

this clearly states 3/8" as outer diameter of the fittings

please also mention in which country and when you bought the mobo (in case there are differences)

thanks!

[Sam_oslo]

Finally stopped wining

Playing with different C-states (disabling the C1E, and enabling "C3/C6/C7 State Support") helped lowering the intensity, but couldn't stop it totally with LLC= "Level 2". It was LLC= "Standard" that could finally shut her up, totally.

In my experience, with LLC= "Level 2" the lower Vcore results in more wining (more intensity in high-pitch sound). In my 2 different 24/7 setup, the @4.22GHZ(222x19) 1.2v has been wining much more than @4.51GHZ(215x21) 1.34v. Also, lower-Vcore = more-wining.

The combination of LLC= Standard + disabling the C1E + enabling C3/C6/C7 State Support, has stopped it totally independent of the Vcore.

[sRHunt3r]

@ OC Nub thx man, I went ahead and ordered the block adapter and fittings today, my room stays cool so I should be fine and like you said I can always add the second rad

@ Mastakilla, I was curious so I tested some clearflex 60 I had which is 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD and it went on without too much force but did grab so with a clamp I think 3/8 ID is good but 5/16 would be very snug and possibly a better seal.

[LarsMarkelson]

Finally stopped wining

Playing with different C-states (disabling the C1E, and enabling "C3/C6/C7 State Support") helped lowering the intensity, but couldn't stop it totally with LLC= "Level 2". It was LLC= "Standard" that could finally shut her up, totally.

In my experience, with LLC= "Level 2" the lower Vcore results in more wining (more intensity in high-pitch sound). In my 2 different 24/7 setup, the @4.22GHZ(222x19) 1.2v has been wining much more than @4.51GHZ(215x21) 1.34v. Also, lower-Vcore = more-wining.

The combination of LLC= Standard + disabling the C1E + enabling C3/C6/C7 State Support, has stopped it totally independent of the Vcore.

Wow, nice. Really weird though, I have no whine at all on mine.

[kone]

4.83G pass linx 50 run on water

[LarsMarkelson]

dude, I have a really nice w3520. i'll trade you for that wimpy i9...

[Sam_oslo]

LOL, that wimpy i9... is actually a Intel 32nm Xeon Westmere DP 3.20G , and it isn't exactly cheap.

4.83G pass linx 50 run on water

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu180/fcjkone/test/154v483G-linx.jpg?t=1264515192[/IMG]

Good job, this looks good. These 32nm Quad seams to handle much more Vcore with less heat.
I've been hoping that some batch# of these 32nm Quads can hit 5GHZ for 24/7 use on air/water, and this is a really promising start .

[Mastakilla]

@ OC Nub thx man, I went ahead and ordered the block adapter and fittings today, my room stays cool so I should be fine and like you said I can always add the second rad

@ Mastakilla, I was curious so I tested some clearflex 60 I had which is 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD and it went on without too much force but did grab so with a clamp I think 3/8 ID is good but 5/16 would be very snug and possibly a better seal.

Thanks for the info Hunter!

Can you tell me if you bought it from EU or US? (or some place else)

also other people are still allowed to say the diameter of their UD7 fittings

[sRHunt3r]

I purchased my UD-7 from newegg a US online retailer.

[Sam_oslo]

Some quick tests to see how it works with LLC= "Standard" and looks good.

It is a huge Vdroop(compared to Level 2), Vcore= 1.30625 (BIOS set) ends up as 1.24v/1.21v (Idle/Load). But I'm keeping it, not only because stopped wining, but seams to be running stable with 2 higher BCLK

PCIe = 103MHZ, not only boots with BCLK224, but also seams to be stable roo

w3520 @4.25GHZ (224x19) 1.21v 30 min OCCT stable

[LarsMarkelson]

PUMP IT UP TO x21 BABY!!!

[Sam_oslo]

LOL, I would love to, but I don't dare to try it. My air cooling would have some major objections.
I couldn't get it it over 4.5GHZ(215x21) 1.34v yet (not without breaking my own cool&quiet requirements).

[zalbard]

LOL, I would love to, but I don't dare to try it. My air cooling would have some major objections.
I couldn't get it it over 4.5GHZ(215x21) 1.34v yet (not without breaking my own cool&quiet requirements).

What PCI-Express frequency are you using? And how much did it help?

[Intratech]

Woah so increasing the PCi-E clock helps the overclock? If so I think I might have 4.5 GHz in this chip.

[lowfat]

Woah so increasing the PCi-E clock helps the overclock? If so I think I might have 4.5 GHz in this chip.

Only to break the 222bclk barrier. Below that nope.

[Pickles24]

I just ordered some reducing sockets (1/2' to 3/8') from DD, they should be here tomorrow, and I'll post how they do with the stock block. I am running a X-Flow Black Ice Pro III with a single bay res, and room temp around 65f. Should be plenty of rad for the nb and cpu. If not I have another Black Ice Pro single 180mm I could add into the mix.