Scythe Kaze master Mofsets? reaching 91+C with 2 fans attached within specs??

[Elpy]

GT's only draw a fraction of current that a normal fan does, you should be fine.

edit: they only draw 0.049A, typical 120mm fan draws like 0.3A. you could put them all on one channel and still only draw 0.343A... a little more then typical fan.

Thats the normal current. However just like other fans, they have a higher starting current which is somewhere around same numbers as that 0.3A. Depending of which GT ofc. For some reasons some sites just write the running current of the fan and some write the starting current of the fan...

And its pretty easy to figure out since if those currents would really be like 0.049A... You could run like a dozen of them with any controller. But anyway... They use just as much power as normal fans.

[Diverge]

Thats the normal current. However just like other fans, they have a higher starting current which is somewhere around same numbers as that 0.3A. Depending of which GT ofc. For some reasons some sites just write the running current of the fan and some write the starting current of the fan...

And its pretty easy to figure out since if those currents would really be like 0.049A... You could run like a dozen of them with any controller. But anyway... They use just as much power as normal fans.

GT's are the leader of the pack when it comes to efficiency. Just check out this chart.



Here's the whole review of many different fans: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...s-roundup.html

And here is data taken for all the different GT's, including their peak current:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...oundup_18.html

Check out the peak current (which would include startup) for some other fans

Thats what the specs GT says. But I don't believe it. Time to make a special cable and check amps myself.............

Grr my multimeter fuse is blown from another past experiment, more tomorrow once the fuse is replaced.........

Go for it. I'd check mine with my multimeter, but they are all soldered in parallel, heat shrinked, zip tied, and in my case.

These aren't your typical computer fan, with all marketing gimmicks, ect. They are pretty much precision made industrial fans made by a fan manufacturer ( www.nidec-servo.com ). They are just marketed by scythe.

[Elpy]

:O. I've been lied to. read somewhere about their starting current being higher. Oh well thanks! I wish I would had found that chart earlier. Although even so... Just put my kaze server for sale . I want something more reliable. I've heard of them being bad few times before but after seeing this.. Yeah dont want :S

[Waterlogged]

:O. I've been lied to. read somewhere about their starting current being higher. Oh well thanks! I wish I would had found that chart earlier. Although even so... Just put my kaze server for sale . I want something more reliable. I've heard of them being bad few times before but after seeing this.. Yeah dont want :S

AFAIK, There have been no reported cases of the server version dying. They have all been the original and ace versions.

If there has been reported deaths of "server's", can someone please point me to a link or two?


Also, on the topic of the GT's, Nidec-Servo's own PDF shows a 83mA "rating" but it also shows a 360mA "starting" for the 1850.

[Elpy]

Hmm... Well then I guess I'll see how it works and if it gets toasted, then buy something else.. did some quick googling and apparently the server versio has some heatsinks unlike the other versions.

[rge]

the 2 led fans (0.3 amps per fan) at 800 rpms on Scythe mosfets that were 105-110C, on sony only 45C, and on Lamptron 35C (just got FC-5 today after ordering last 2 from frozen cpu saturday). Even hooking 3 of those LED fans, only 40C on lamptron reading multiple places. After I bought it, was worried lamptron FC-5 was going to have same issue with temps, since has small copper heatsinks?, but obviously not an issue. I think I will be sticking with it or sony, though like lamptron better since has rpm and voltage readout.

[Waterlogged]

*Grrr* I meant to ask this in my last post but forgot.

Is there something that I can pick up at my local Radio Shack that will replace the D882 for more "reliability" or are heat sinks the best option?

http://www.radioshack.com/family/ind...goryId=2032279

[Alexandr0s]

Well, as you can tell from this datasheet, the D882 is rated for 3A, so I doubt it's unreliable. I'd suggest getting (or making) some heatsinks.
Now what I am wondering, if the D882 is rated for 3A, what component is bottlenecking the fancontroller, not being able to handle more than 1A per channel?

[Diverge]

*Grrr* I meant to ask this in my last post but forgot.

Is there something that I can pick up at my local Radio Shack that will replace the D882 for more "reliability" or are heat sinks the best option?

http://www.radioshack.com/family/ind...goryId=2032279

Find out what the transistors used in rge's pic above are. They are in a TO-220 package, which should handle more current then TO-126. Look up the datasheet of the 2 parts and compare them to see if they are similiar.

If I recall correctly though, the D882's are lined up side to side, in very tight area... so the larger transistors wouldn't fit there. you'd have to remotely mount them to a heatsink, and use decent gauge wire. Might as well just buy a new fan controller though.

[Vinas]

Pretty much the reason I don't recommend these controllers. No heat sinks at all = doom. There is at least one person here that had an experience with the controller burning up and wrecking havoc on her loop. I'm not gonna mention names though

Just mount a heat sink to it and you'll be all set. Old video card and NB heatsinks can be easily cut and used for this.

[Wolf132]

You should just get a real fan controller and quit toying with the kids stuff. It will run every fan you have and them some. Mine is setup to run 1 outta my 6 fans until the digital sensors on the radiator go above 33C, then they will start to kick on as needed to keep the computer cool and quiet. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/tbalancerbigng.html

[Waterlogged]

. . .
Now what I am wondering, if the D882 is rated for 3A, what component is bottlenecking the fancontroller, not being able to handle more than 1A per channel?

One of my main suspects is the rotary pot. It just doesn't strike me as a well built or designed.

56K Warning!

[R3alsp33dy0ne]

Hmm... Well then I guess I'll see how it works and if it gets toasted, then buy something else.. did some quick googling and apparently the server versio has some heatsinks unlike the other versions.

You are correct there. The server version has had heatsinks added to it. Also, I'm running 6x Scythe GT's 1 channel, 3x S-FLEX's and another channel, and some random case fans on the other channels. All running at lower than standard RPM's, with ambient temps of 30 to 40 degrees C during the day (australian summer with no aircon). This machine has been running 24/7 for at least a couple months now with now problems.

Conclusion, I think you will be fine with the server version.

One of my main suspects is the rotary pot. It just doesn't strike me as a well built or designed.

I could be wrong here, but I don think the rotary pots are actually passing the current that goes to the fan. I'm pretty sure they just send a control voltage to the mosfets. I will be adding a few things to my loop in a couple days do I will have a closer look while everythings apart.

[Levish]

darn, just ordered one. thankfully i have a ton of ram sinks lying around :p

[Waterlogged]

I could be wrong here, but I don think the rotary pots are actually passing the current that goes to the fan. I'm pretty sure they just send a control voltage to the mosfets. I will be adding a few things to my loop in a couple days do I will have a closer look while everythings apart.

There was quite a rash of ppl that lost the use of the pots (as well as the display) but the fans kept running at full speed. This was one of the things that gave me the idea that it was possible that I could modify the Kaze for use with thermo controllers which I pointed out in my video

[NaeKuh]

i would think a sink is the best option.

In almost everything that runs current though them, if you can keep the temps in check, it has better reliability.

However i will NEVER EVER EVER BUY A KAZE ANYTHING.

ITS CRAP CRAP CRAP.. i dont care what you guys say about the server, i still think its CRAP.

If a 13 dollar rheobus can use big alu sinks.. why the hell cant a 40 dollar kaze controller use the same?
It tells me the company still has a lot to learn in fan controller department.

[Alexandr0s]

Their design and idea is great, however the implementation and correct use of parts could be better.

Would it be possible to replace the potmeters with ones that are more reliable/can handle more amps? If so, what specifications would they need?

[gmat]

It tells me the company still has a lot to learn in fan controller department.

Worse, they could learn from their own heatsink department since they make some of the best stuff out there. Case of left arm ignoring what right arm does.

Would it be possible to replace the potmeters with ones that are more reliable/can handle more amps

The pots only control the grid/base of the FET so they dont see any current go through, it's the transistor itself that overheats. Just glue heatsinks on them.

[Diverge]

Their design and idea is great, however the implementation and correct use of parts could be better.

Would it be possible to replace the potmeters with ones that are more reliable/can handle more amps? If so, what specifications would they need?

The pots aren't usually part of the output stage. They control input to a much smaller transistor, which drives the output transistor.

Edit: woops Gmat beat me to it

[NKrader]

Worse, they could learn from their own heatsink department since they make some of the best stuff out there. Case of left arm ignoring what right arm does.



The pots only control the grid/base of the FET so they dont see any current go through, it's the transistor itself that overheats. Just glue heatsinks on them.

The pots aren't usually part of the output stage. They control input to a much smaller transistor, which drives the output transistor.

Edit: woops Gmat beat me to it

question still not answered.. could somone solder a better higher amp one onto the board to replace current ones?

[gmat]

They get that hot because they're used in a rather crude manner (directly dropping the voltage from a +12v reference) - a multi stage solution would reduce the heat impact on each transistor. One could browse electronics retailers to see if they carry higher rated MOSFETs but in any case with such a brutal, single-stage circuit, wou'd have to use proper heatsinks anyway. The ones on Kaze controllers arent bad by themselves, they just need proper cooling.