T3 reservoir cracking?

[Barso]

I have now returned mine but they are out of stock.
I will wait until the new ones are released from the new manufacturer.
I also have one of the new ones with the new allen key fasteners but I still think it all boils down to the thickness of the acrylic.

[levinan]

@Levinan : is it crack from the beginning?, or damages from instalation in the case?

the reservoir crack it's from beginning, but since i dont see it myself i thought it was a molding imperfection, when my brother told me about it. Because if, it;s because shipment the box would be tear / crashed. when my brother received the box intact like new :d. And also i don't get a led light in the package which like the product picture description :d.

[NaeKuh]

Good thing you used the Primochill coolant. The Thermochill would have voided your warranty if glycol was in it. (I'm not certain as I haven't looked).

Brian and BoxGods should get you taken care of though.

Why is that when Primochill PC-ICE is the same exact thing?

Dude if brian is saying he will not take the other because its not his company being forumated the same, then i am NOT gonna endorse this product anymore.

Mille this statement has to be the biggest BS statement a vendor can make. And i cant believe your accepting this.

BOXGODS care to make a statement?
Mille verify this, because i am seriously gonna FLAG people AWAY if this is true.
I dont deal with Shaddy vendors.

[Humminn55]

NaeKuh......from Primochill's website pages......


In their PC ICE description:

Environmentally responsible food safe NON-TOXIC biodegradable product—good for you, good for your PC, and good for the planet. We do NOT use Ethylene Glycol in our fluids.

Quote above taken from Features section of linked page....about half way down page.


In their PC PURE description:

Environmentally responsible food safe non toxic biodegradable product. Good for you, good for your PC, and good for the planet.

Designed as the ultimate OVERCLOCKERS fluid. With no fancy glycols or special chemical compounds, just PURE PERFORMANCE.

Quote above taken from Features section of linked page....about half way down page.


So, it seems neither PC ICE nor PC PURE uses glycol, at least in current formulations.


From their Typhoon III description page:

Typhoon III Reservoir System - PEC has a 3-year limited warranty. Use of cooling fluids that contain Ethylene Glycol (Feser One) or any other harsh chemicals void the warranty for this product.

Quote above from bottom of this linked page.


So, using glycol containing fluids will void the warranty on the Typhoon III res.

[millertime359]

Why is that when Primochill PC-ICE is the same exact thing?

Dude if brian is saying he will not take the other because its not his company being forumated the same, then i am NOT gonna endorse this product anymore.

Mille this statement has to be the biggest BS statement a vendor can make. And i cant believe your accepting this.

BOXGODS care to make a statement?
Mille verify this, because i am seriously gonna FLAG people AWAY if this is true.
I dont deal with Shaddy vendors.

There not saying not to use other vendors coolants. They are saying not to use anything with Glycol in it. It will not react well with the acrylic.

I thought you knew about that. That was the big debate when it first came out and everyone found out you couldn't use Feser in it.

BoxGods did make mention of switching over to an ABS plastic which may allow the use of Glycol based coolants though.

[DarthBeavis]

Why is that when Primochill PC-ICE is the same exact thing?

Dude if brian is saying he will not take the other because its not his company being forumated the same, then i am NOT gonna endorse this product anymore.

Mille this statement has to be the biggest BS statement a vendor can make. And i cant believe your accepting this.

BOXGODS care to make a statement?
Mille verify this, because i am seriously gonna FLAG people AWAY if this is true.
I dont deal with Shaddy vendors.

You can use Fluid XP with it And it can still leak. ABS I think will resolve the issues on a couple fronts (glycol and stress cracks).

[meanmoe]

There not saying not to use other vendors coolants. They are saying not to use anything with Glycol in it. It will not react well with the acrylic.

I thought you knew about that. That was the big debate when it first came out and everyone found out you couldn't use Feser in it.

BoxGods did make mention of switching over to an ABS plastic which may allow the use of Glycol based coolants though.

is it the acrylic thats the problem of or the bonding strip. For some reason I thought that the bonding strip was why ethelene glycol was prohibited. I think I read it in the T3 thread.

[millertime359]

is it the acrylic thats the problem of or the bonding strip. For some reason I thought that the bonding strip was why ethelene glycol was prohibited. I think I read it in the T3 thread.

There was a concern over using the clear bonding strip. That is why the first ones where the yellow band.

It is the acrylic though. That is the reason for not being able to use glycol. A photo was posted here of someone who did and it wasn't pretty.

[Barso]

Apologies if my previous statement about the thermochill EC6 coolant smelling like it contained glycol.
I have checked with the supplier and thermochill and it does not.
I am currently using it with a new T3 with the clear bonding strip and it works okay.
I still want one of the new T3 res's when they appear.
It's a pity that they never went with the new manufacturer's at the start but being self-employed in a business that experiments with new materials and formulas, I can understand how these things do happen.

[washu9]

So you're also an international customer then, i thought it was just me ,
the other one are good, but this one that clerk at ppc.com just paying attention the stuff got to send :d. If I may, where are you from my friend ???
i'm from indonesia anyway, so it's already impossible for me to RMA since the shipping cost are way too high (about same price with the item value). As for the item it's already 3 months old :d, but knew about this crack about 2 days ago (the item at my brother's place at another town, because of shipping cost reason ).

Yeah i'm also gonna try that trick too , since i'm already leak testing it by pouring water inside but without pump testing since it'll arrive in the next 3 days i think (sitting at custom right now) from Gary (swc.com).
But just a moment ago i'm already submitted a ticket for Brian @primochill website, so let's see what's gonna happen then :d.

Anyway here's the culprit :d, sorry i can't make the spoiler tag.....

Seems to me that the problem lies with the acrylic around the screw holes not being strong/thick enough.

I presume that, being a water container product, each one already been pressure tested before they come out. Just that they never thought to test the retention system.

Thinking about it, might also be a problem since we got the motor pump mounted inside, and thus the vibrations get transfered to the retention system. That would make sense why it takes several months for the cracks to appear. There might also be too much imperfections in the acrylic as well that would make this problem worse.

What they should have done is make those screw holes separate from the acrylic, rather being installed DIRECTLY into the acrylic. Then use a rubbery adhesive compound to install the screw holes. Using the main structure of the container, acrylic being non-flexible and all, is a rather major oversight.

Those being my analysis, it would definitely help if we would all use nylon screws, with rubber washers to reduce vibration stresses. And should use all the screw holes available so as not to over-stress any single screw connections more than we have to.

Another recommendation would be to put the reservoir on the bottom drive slots (for those with plate on the bottom of the slot), that would also reduce stresses on the holding mechanism if it's not holding the full weight of the reservoir. If you got some space below the reservoir, I'd fill it with some silicone for further reduce vibrations.


Oh, BTW, levinan, I'm in the same country as you.
We don't have any good stores around that actually stocks WC products. Nearest one I could think of is Aus, but their product line is not nearly as complete.

[Baulten]

Well, I ordered a Typhoon III from Jab-tech and it arrived today. It seems to be in fine condition... but I'm still waiting for my PA 120.2 and EK WB for my video card before I test it out... stuff should hopefully get here tomorrow.

[gmat]

Those being my analysis, it would definitely help if we would all use nylon screws, with rubber washers to reduce vibration stresses. And should use all the screw holes available so as not to over-stress any single screw connections more than we have to.

Definitely. That's what i'm doing (along with having it rest on a divider plate with soundproofing / cushion) - use rubber mounts. The screws are M3 right ?

[millertime359]

Definitely. That's what i'm doing (along with having it rest on a divider plate with soundproofing / cushion) - use rubber mounts. The screws are M3 right ?

There are some rubber like stickers included with it. Use those, then I also used some weather stripping on each side. You can't see it and it helps to isolate it.

The best thing to do for the T3 though is use a vario D5 and crank that thing down to 2-3. You will not hear the pump then, very little vibration, and it shouldn't effect temps at all on most peoples loops.

[washu9]

There are some rubber like stickers included with it. Use those, then I also used some weather stripping on each side. You can't see it and it helps to isolate it.

The best thing to do for the T3 though is use a vario D5 and crank that thing down to 2-3. You will not hear the pump then, very little vibration, and it shouldn't effect temps at all on most peoples loops.

2-3... would u recommend it for me?
I got 1 triple rad + 1 dual rad + HK3 + mosfets + NB-SB + 295

... I'm just not so sure that's a good idea.

Would you put the foam weatherstripping on the case or the T3 itself?
They might not be too visible on the outside, but removing the adhesive when you want to replace em or move it to another place is really hard.

[millertime359]

I put mine on T3. I forgot to take pictures when I did it. I didn't put any top and bottom (no need) just on the sides toward the front face of the res.

Try it. Its not hard to get to the adjustment screw (at least on mine) Turn it down and see how your temps are. It is noticeably quieter. I have everything you have, minus MB blocks and replace HK with Swiftech XT.

[meanmoe]

Hey hey. So I turned my machine off and left it off for the first time in a while. When I checked back there was a puddle in the bottom of my case (it's an open air case, you couldn't miss it). So guess what happened, that's right, the T3 leaked.

The leak is at the top back screw hole for the pump flange. When the pump is on and the system is closed, it doesn't leak. When I turn the pump off or open the fill port the rise in pressure causes it to slowly leak through the crack.

I thought I'd post because it's kind of funny my last post in this thread I was joking about having one reserved for me. So I guess I'll open up a ticket on their website or something report on the result.

[Diverge]

Hmm, maybe I should turn my computer off one day?

[Althulas]

My first T3 cracked at the mounting sites of the pump leaking fluid resulting in one dead MB. WCUK were prompt with the rma of the T3. The replacement T3 is water tight but have noted the same imperfections in the moulding and will be keeping a regular check for leaks from the same point.

[meanmoe]

I don't care too much about the molding imperfections... they're so minor. I do mind water in my case though.

I wonder if they'll send me the led that was broken when I got it also. I do have to say though that I have confidence in them taking car of me (just like they did you). (I bought straight from primochill)

[az'rail]

well m on my second one first one cracked really bad, T3 produced cracks on the studs that i didnt even use ). opened up a ticket and had it resolved but it took a over month to get a replacement T3 (with all there productions problems im lucky i got one). got the new one in and keeped an eye on it. and now its starting to crack as well (took about 2.5 weeks). ive used nothing but distilled water and 4 bitspower true silver fittings (not on the T3). was super careful not to over tighten the pump mounting screws. also my computer gets put sleep/turned off every night. the cracks are starting at the raised part of the mounting studs. they start off as hair line cracks and then they spread out to the rest of the stud. im suspecting the fluctuation of temperatures is causing the metal to expand and contract something the acrylic isnt ment to do and thus it cracks at the thinest points. opened a ticket up yesterday once i started to notice the cracks. i like the T3 but if this is going to be a cycle things i might just not use it and go with a traditional loop.

wow dont really post alot but i really got to update my signature

[strike]

the thickness of acrylic T3 and metal screws, for more anti vibration you put on
it affects the res
send a ticket for almost 2 months and I'm still waiting them to send me one here in Spain

in the beginning they seems to ignore me but they sent me mail telling me that they are doing there best and fast as possible to bring back this res

I guess they are making the walls thicker
I am very angry about that right now I have my computer running with air instead of water stuff

I will wait until the year ends
but if primochill doesn´t send me a res I'll buy 1 pump D5 and D5 dual top

at least eddie (EK) is concerned for his client


sorry for my bad english !!!

[Waterlogged]

the thickness of acrylic T3 and metal screws, for more anti vibration you put on
it affects the res
send a ticket for almost 2 months and I'm still waiting them to send me one here in Spain

in the beginning they seems to ignore me but they sent me mail telling me that they are doing there best and fast as possible to bring back this res

I guess they are making the walls thicker
I am very angry about that right now I have my computer running with air instead of water stuff

I will wait until the year ends
but if primochill doesn´t send me a res I'll buy 1 pump D5 and D5 dual top

at least eddie (EK) is concerned for his client


sorry for my bad english !!!

Just chill out strike. Primochill had too many problems with the manufacturer in China so they are in the process of moving production to the US and while they are at it, they are also changing the material used to make the res to ABS (IIRC). This is going to take time but I believe (as BoxGods and Primochill do) the product will be much better as a result. Patience is a virtue.

[washu9]

I'm just about to start assembling my system...

So at this point does EVERYONE got problem with cracks on the T3 regardless of any precautions you've taken? Or is there a success story somewhere?

This is causing me great concern over the actual viability of using this reservoir in any system.

[meanmoe]

Just chill out strike. Primochill had too many problems with the manufacturer in China so they are in the process of moving production to the US and while they are at it, they are also changing the material used to make the res to ABS (IIRC). This is going to take time but I believe (as BoxGods and Primochill do) the product will be much better as a result. Patience is a virtue.

Hah, chill out? Seriously, ALOT of people bought the T3 based on all the recommendation and incredible hype on this forum. And although I have complete confidence that primochill will take care of us - telling someone to chill out who's been waiting a long time and/or has lost hardware due to a defect of such a highly recommended product is probably not very appreciated. A product should be qualified before shipping it out to consumers. But that's just my opinion.

If it all works out, I actually plan to buy another one for a build in Feb. The concept is still great , but the problems need to be fixed. (And I believe they will be)

[SoulsCollective]

Well, I've just had to pull apart and re-do my machine - walked into comp room this morning to be greeted with a nice puddle on the floor. Thankfully the machine was off at the time.

TIII has cracks all over it - spidering out from where the fittings screw in, spidering out from the front fill-port holes, and especially from the sides where the metal insets are to screw it into the bays. I've used acrylic before, I'm aware that fittings need to be finger-tightened only, and I've never forced anything into it - but it's still cracked to hell and gone, and as others are saying, leaking from the screw-hole parts on the sides whenever the pump is on. Unfortunately, I got it shipped direct from the USA - so warranty is going to be an absolute pain in the bum.