Confirmed: Feser 1 Blue Premix + GTZ = do NOT want

[usoldier]

How about Feser Aqua Pure + Feser Base Corrosion Blocker would you guys recomend it ?

Also found that gunk on my Ek supreme block just not has bad has other cases here this actualy worries me :/

[creidiki]

... sigh.

Ok, it goes like this.

Coolant mixtures are solution.

The most caveman-like way to cause a solution to separate is to change its saturation point so that the the solution turns into a suspension, causing (hopefully) the solute to precipitate or otherwise separate from the solvent.

Some of the most most straightforward, caveman-like ways for a man who likes to assemble furniture by slapping it together with nails to change a solutions saturation point are:

• Rapid pressure changes/vibrations. Think fluid turbulence.
• Subjecting it to UV light. For example, leave it out in the sun. Or subject it to a UV tube
• Repeated temperature change cycles. As in, heat it up and cool it down, again, and again, and again ...
• Adding impurities. Like, for example, dissolved metals, plastics ...
• Evaporate the solvent.

At multiple points as your coolant flows through your loop, it will be subjected to as many as 5 of those separation methods at once. In different combinations. Repeatedly.

Not only that, but it gets progressively worse as it succeeds: as the solution starts to break down, the temperature changes become larger, the turbulence more intense, the coolant is subjected to longer stretches of sustained UV, and macroscopic impurities increase, and the increased temperatures increase microevaporation.

Congratulations Gentlemen, You are now ready for one of the Arcane Secrets Of Watercooling™:

We are a band of fearless modern-day alchemists who, for fun, run solutions through sophisticated, if overpriced, separator setups, and then complain when we succeed in separating said solution.

edit: I hereby grant thee the Rank of Journeyman Keeper Of Secrets. Continue in your path of wisdom-seeking, young padawans, and you shall know the blissful peace of all the Masters of Olde, and all that jazz

[phelan1777]

AND that is why you were missed lol, that is awesome. The trolls would be out in droves, in their sheer ignorance, followed by some hapless soul trying to simplify that for the trolls.

Well said man, well said. and for the record I am still running distilled, with a little biocide as I have for three years now, no funky stuff, and water looks as almost as clear as the day I put it in. Though that reminds me I need to top it off one of these days.

[Equinediver]

Love it Creidiki

By far the best explanation I've ever read!!! Definately see why you were missed here........welcome back

[HaloJones]

I just opened my ApogeeGTX which has been running Black Feser at around 60C (Cpu-temp) 24/7 for months. Temps had been creeping up without any explanation until I saw this thread. I have just removed it and replaced with a nice clean (used) Fuzion v1 and temps are 10C lower with no other changes.



Haven't tried to clean yet but the loop now has plain distilled water.

[savviness]

Had this happen to me too. Luckily I saw this thread a couple weeks after I filled my system so I knew to be on the lookout... Many thanks to SNiiPE_DoGG for posting on this, I might have never caught it otherwise.

Relevant info:
Feser 1 RED
Heatkiller 3.0 Cu
Primochill red tubing
Ran for ~4 months, mostly 24/7. I am running an i7 d0@4.0ghz (4.2 w/ turbo, HT on). Temps when I stabilized my system never got above 72, but I noticed they had started creeping up to 82+ recently (my rad was pretty dusty too so this was not 100% the coolants problem). When I opened the heatkiller up, the plate that sits on top of the fins on the bottom of the block was completely caked with purple dye chunks, it looks like there was basically 0 flow making it to the fins.

Has anyone caught this stuff gunking up their rads? I have two other blocks in my loop, a koolance mobo block for the evga classified and a mosfet block - the mobo block I actually took apart and it looked mostly fine with only some light dye specks here and there, but no real buildup. I can't open my mosfet block/rad obviously, so I'm curious if anyone has seen issues there as well. It seems like it took an abnormally long time to bleed all the air out of my system when I refilled it (water + petra nuke), so I'm pretty paranoid at this point.

[RoadconeTuning]

my GTZ had a little trash in it and i ran F1 Acid Green for 7 months... about two of that were with it running WCG and hovering in the 60*C at 3.6GHz on a Q6600 at 1.51v... there was very slight discoloration on everything but nothing that plain old tap water didnt get rid of when i rubbed my finger across it. just added an EK GPU block to my loop too... i expect to have no issues when i build my next system and tear this one down...

[mlwood37]

I just need to point some thing out reading though this whole tread. lol

Any way some one said that they kept losing green colouring in there system and that it faded quite quickly. Ive been messing on with dyes and chems for what seems quite a while and ive allso come across this many times esp with the colour green.

I found that PT Nuke or any type of strong Biocide has an adverse effect on UV Green or Green. If you add to much biocide (more than 1 drop of concentrate) the Green lierty disapears with in day and the UV aspect of it disapears even quicker.

If you then water down the fluid even more the Green comes back as well as the UV green.

Other tests include using concentrate fountain clear wich is a very very strong Algaecide and 1 drop of that in pure form killed the green colour with in seconds. After diluting it down by 100% and testing the same again on green the green lasted 3 months +.

Now it only seems to happen to green and this doesnt matter if it a pure green or a mix of colours.

Allso when testing i foud that the worst thing that cause build up of mass is inhibitors perticulay ones used for home radiators. Ive tested about 13 diffrent types with and with out dyes and biocide and am still testing them.

Now the best Premix fluid i found so far is ones used with in HAVAC systems that can help keep air filtraction and food stuff system cool. How ever these are normaly mixed at a 25% to 50% ratio with distilled water or purfied water. How ever its not cheap a 25 Ltr can is about £139.99. Dont forget HAVAC is a high yeald busness and they have put millions of $ into making sure them chems work. (what do u think thermochill has in ec6 and me in X1).

just food for thought .

Im no expect like some of you guys and im realy observing what happens when chems are mixed but its certainly intresing seeing some of these pics ... How ever in all my tests ive been running not once have i seen them that bad, yet im not realy running my loops any thing over 60c.

Allso so some thing for you guys to note UV Pink / UV Red / UV green / UV Yellow are all acid based dyes ..... All uv dye bases are made this way. The only Dye (its not a real dye) out there that does not stain and is not acid is UV clear blue because it is a optical brigtner and does not stain.

If you need to know what chems are used these are the base colour chems for pre mixes and ever thing else

Bromofluorescein - (nasty dye never use it) UV Orange
Acridine Orange - Orange UV dye.
Fluorescein - standard UV yellow / green acid based dye
Rhodamine B 500% - UV Pink base dye (not acid based)
Rhodamine 6G - Red dye with yellow UV (acid based)
Sulphorhodamine B 400% - UV Pink dye (acid based)
Optical Brightener - Clear UV blue (lots of diffrent types) none acid.

this is just some of the base UV dyes used to make your pre mixes and dyes the list i have is much longer and lots of varants of these.

[StAndrew]

Looks like your goop formed a thermal blanket and was cooked by the processor heat.

[maxietheboss]

Does this only happen with feser one premixes or is this true for any coloured coolants. I just set-up my first 2 loops ever with primochill pc pure green/blue and I definitely don't want this to happen to my precious heatkiller 3.0 cu en my blackfreezers gtx295. If so ill throw out this gunk immediately and switch to distilled water with some PT nuke and just put leds in my reservoir

[R3alsp33dy0ne]

Does this only happen with feser one premixes or is this true for any coloured coolants. I just set-up my first 2 loops ever with primochill pc pure green/blue and I definitely don't want this to happen to my precious heatkiller 3.0 cu en my blackfreezers gtx295. If so ill throw out this gunk immediately and switch to distilled water with some PT nuke and just put leds in my reservoir

Any dyes will break down eventually. It's simply a matter of time. I personally use only distilled water and coloured tubing. As far as I'm concerned, if you use any kind of dye/colouring you are asking for trouble.

[Alexandr0s]

Any dyes will break down eventually. It's simply a matter of time. I personally use only distilled water and coloured tubing. As far as I'm concerned, if you use any kind of dye/colouring you are asking for trouble.

If you use dye/colouring you need to understand that it requires maintenance. As long as you're willing to refill your loop every 6 months or so and do a complete cleaning once every year then I don't think there will be much trouble.

It's a shame so many people have a hard time actually keeping this up for several years, which is why so many loops get messed up and dyes get such a bad name

Don't get me wrong, there are many things that cause the clogging besides bad maintenance, however I believe most of the problems here can be prevented with regular maintenance.

[maxietheboss]

If you use dye/colouring you need to understand that it requires maintenance. As long as you're willing to refill your loop every 6 months or so and do a complete cleaning once every year then I don't think there will be much trouble.

It's a shame so many people have a hard time actually keeping this up for several years, which is why so many loops get messed up and dyes get such a bad name

Don't get me wrong, there are many things that cause the clogging besides bad maintenance, however I believe most of the problems here can be prevented with regular maintenance.

Okay, I was planning on draining and refilling the loop every 3 months and complete clean every 6 months

[Alexandr0s]

Even better . Don't use my suggestion as a rule, do whatever you feel most comfortable with.

[[AK]Zip]

I stick with just water and some antifreeze. I have an old system that has been running for 5 years now on the same liquid and hasn't had any buildup at all.

[supa-fly]

OMG... that stuff is horrible

Now I really worried... Im actually awaiting my delivery of the Apogee XT, and guess what? 3m long Fezer UV Blue tube, and............... 1L Fezer One UV Blue coolant

I feel like I just wasted an odd 40 euros on that after reading this thread =/

Lucky for me I still have a 10l bottle of distilled water. Time to go silver shopping :p

[pizan]

Yeah this worries me. I used Feser-One UV Red before I started to read these forums and now I think I might have to drain, clean and refill my loop. Good thing my mother has a distilled, deionized water tap at work.

[Philwong]

No more Feser One for me.

Phil

[jVIDIA]

hehehehe ...... nothing like good old destiled water

[Flash2k6]

So if you use Primochill LRT tubing and Distilled, you add nothing else? I saw that earlier in the thread, but just confirming. Would you not add silver either? What about something like Water WetteR? Just plain distilled and nothing else?

Also, what's the maintenance like on going Primochill LRT + Distilled? Replace/clean every year? Every 6 months?

[Gwiggles]

So if you use Primochill LRT tubing and Distilled, you add nothing else? I saw that earlier in the thread, but just confirming. Would you not add silver either? What about something like Water WetteR? Just plain distilled and nothing else?

Also, what's the maintenance like on going Primochill LRT + Distilled? Replace/clean every year? Every 6 months?

You have to add a biocide like PTNuke UNLESS you like green stuff turning your loop into it's breeding ground OR if you're going for an earthy look with your build...

[PimpYo]

So is fesser 1 F1 cooling fluid confirmed bad or something?

I ordered F1 UV fluid to use with PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Tubing.

Should I just use distilled water? Any additives I need?

[jVIDIA]

So if you use Primochill LRT tubing and Distilled, you add nothing else? I saw that earlier in the thread, but just confirming. Would you not add silver either? What about something like Water WetteR? Just plain distilled and nothing else?

Also, what's the maintenance like on going Primochill LRT + Distilled? Replace/clean every year? Every 6 months?

I use one piece of Silver KillCoil from Petra's

As to maintenance .... only time will tell, but using Feser you will also need to do maintenance ... and the price is not compared

[kwscore]

2,5 month My D Tek Fusion V2 looks in side like Crap

[LinusTech]

You have to add a biocide like PTNuke UNLESS you like green stuff turning your loop into it's breeding ground OR if you're going for an earthy look with your build...

Primoflex LRT has biocide lining the tubing walls. There is no need to add PT_NUKE or silver.

My loop has been running over a year with distilled + Primoflex LRT and the water in my res is still clear (and so is my res for that matter).

It works as advertised. Every extra thing you add to your loop is just asking for trouble.