Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[millertime359]

I got the MB installed and the loop bleed for the most part. It is alive. I just hope it stays that way.

You can see my subloops in the sig.

It seems my GPU (700/1500/1200) idles @ 37 peaks @ 41 playing Crysis warhead
CPU (stock still atm) idles @ 35 peaks @ 40 playing Crysis Warhead

I'll keep an eye on these and update later one when I get my CPU OC'ed.

edit: room temp 23.89 degrees

[hchristian]

The Coolmaster drivebay systems is a bit of a hassle with the T3 as it doesn't work with it. I found that you can only screw it in on one side as the holes on the other side are for the lower holes and the T3's holes are the upper ones. I found that if you bend that spring tab inwards though, it seems to hold that other side of the res fairly well.

I forgot to take photos, but if you have a coolermaster case with that latch system, you will see what I'm talking about.

I have a Cosmos Black Label with that latch system as well.

Thinking of getting a T3 to replace my EK Res. Care to show some pics of the problem with the drive latch?

Much appreciated!

[millertime359]

I have a Cosmos Black Label with that latch system as well.

Thinking of getting a T3 to replace my EK Res. Care to show some pics of the problem with the drive latch?

Much appreciated!

I can't without tearing it all down again. (well I may have to anyways seeing I can't seem to keep these stupid Asus Striker II Formula boards running )

You have to remove the latch on the 2 bays you are going to fit the T3 into. You will see screw holes once you do. Those are where you screw into to mount the T3. (If you wish to flush mount it, you will have to drill the holes a little further back.) Then if you look into the drive bay, you will see the metal tabs that normally put pressure onto your dvd drive to hold it in when you push the button to lock it in. If you take a screwdriver and bend those tabs a little further into the bay it will help to hold that side of the T3 as you can't put any screws into it.

[hchristian]

I can't without tearing it all down again. (well I may have to anyways seeing I can't seem to keep these stupid Asus Striker II Formula boards running )

You have to remove the latch on the 2 bays you are going to fit the T3 into. You will see screw holes once you do. Those are where you screw into to mount the T3. (If you wish to flush mount it, you will have to drill the holes a little further back.) Then if you look into the drive bay, you will see the metal tabs that normally put pressure onto your dvd drive to hold it in when you push the button to lock it in. If you take a screwdriver and bend those tabs a little further into the bay it will help to hold that side of the T3 as you can't put any screws into it.

You mean it's not flushed when installed? Unless you drill new holes that is.

Can the door be closed though if it isn't flushed?

[millertime359]

You mean it's not flushed when installed? Unless you drill new holes that is.

Can the door be closed though if it isn't flushed?

Yea, it doesn't stick any further than the drive bay covers. You move the hole back by like 1mm. It's not much at all.

[hchristian]

Yea, it doesn't stick any further than the drive bay covers. You move the hole back by like 1mm. It's not much at all.

Awesome. I hope future revisions follows the CD/DVD-ROM hole standards, so all those latches can work fine.

[Waterlogged]

Personally, I've never had problems with double o-rings at all before. . .but then again, I've always used double o-rings with fittings that had a well seated captive o-ring and the double was going to be sitting in one of those silly Swiftech recesses. If you use a o-ring that fits the T3 recess right but is small enough to allow proper thread engagement, I don't see why doubling wouldn't work on the T3 either.

[BoxGods]

Awesome. I hope future revisions follows the CD/DVD-ROM hole standards, so all those latches can work fine.

The T3 fits every case in my shop...about 10 different Lian-Li's, and maybe 10-15 more Silver stones, Older Chieftech etc...I need to make a video for mounting them in the cases with the ez mount rails...need to get one firsts though

[Kibbler]

FYI PPCs got them in.

[Manicdan]

Not sure why your having an issue with the compression fittings. Tighten them finger tight, then about 1/4 (1/2 at most) turn more. If your having trouble getting the extra tightening, just cut a short--like 1/2"--length of tubing from some scrap. Slit it lengthwise so you can easily slip it onto the barb, and use a pair of common pliers to tighten the barb down. The tubing will protect it against scratches.

The compression rings do NOT need to be really cranked down hard to make a seal as they are mostly to make sure a kid or whomever doesn't reach in and yank a tube off of a fitting. Hold the tube with your left hand while tightening the compression with your right hand in case it wants to spin.

Do the same when removing a compression ring. hold the tube with one hand and loosen the ring with the other.

thanks for the tips, i messed up by not being able to really tighten down the barb first until after i had the compression fitting on, when i go to duel loop, when i care to get more tygon, ill do it your way.

also btw i need longer screws, i have acrylic holding these in, and the ones supplied are too short. is there anything similar to threading of your screws? i dont really have much to try it with since i have custom standoffs for my HDDs and i dont think its a standard cdrom screw.

[GregSG]

The T3 PEC at $65.95, and the MCP655 w/ speed controller at $77.95?

Or the T3 Vario at $152.95?

[TheGoofyOne]

Hello every one. I will try not to make this lengthy, but to best describe my experiences it may become that way.

I wanted to post here, as this specific thread led to my decision to purchase the Primochill Typhoon III. I am not new to modding or OC’ing and have many years of builds under my belt, my first being a 333mghz machine in 96. But I am new to watercooling and wanted to do it right. So I did my research first, choosing the parts I purchased by listening to the people who use them and their experiences/comments. I saw many negative comments about the fittings that come with this unit and the o-rings and the recessed o-ring grooves. I saw people say they didn't get any better performance/temps using the dual loops. But I read what was in this thread and made the choice to go with this unit as it fulfilled five of my goals, to save space, to run dual loops, to have a dual bay reservoir, it looks nice from the front of the case, and so many people here are talking highly of it.

I found it easy to install in my NZXT Tempest case (though I needed some longer screws), and easy to mount the MCP655 pump. The fittings, though plastic and proprietary to this unit, didn't leak even though I could move the hose a little within the compression fitting by hand. I ran the loops outside on the floor on a dark towel for 24 hours before installing everything in the case. Everything went well during pre-testing, install, and for about a week of overclocking and testing.
After many attempts at OCing my MB/CPU, and many voltage tweaks for stability, I found a stable 3.66 with an 1833fsb. All was going great. I was happy with my OC, was finally stable in Prime95 for 20 minutes several times, the CPU temp never went above 63 at load during those 20 minutes, so I decided to go for the 24 hour torture test.

Now to the part that doesn't make me so happy.

At about an hour into the CPU torture test my CPU maxed out at 66C. After a couple of hours I noticed a small amount of fluid under my case. I shut down and went looking for the source of the leak. When I opened the fill port at the top of the system (not the fill ports on the Typhoon III) fluid came out quickly as it was under a little pressure. After taking everything apart I found that the Typhoon III had developed cracks at the lower fitting hole on the return side of the unit. By design you can only hand tighten the fittings that come with the unit, so it’s not an issue of over tightening a fitting. It was only after the water temps went up to 66 degrees Celsius and remained there for over two hours during the 100% CPU test did the leak develop. So I’m wondering if the small cracks were there when I purchased the unit and only after the cooling system heated up and pressurized did they start to leak. To test it outside the cooling loop I ran tubes from the inlet to the outlet ports to seal it, and filled it up with cold water to test it. It did not leak. I then put the unit on the back porch to heat up in the sun. After 15 minutes or so the leak was evident. So I cannot tell you if they were there before or not as it wasn’t until after about a week during a stress test of the system that the leak started. Or maybe it was an issue with pressure within the cooling system after the system ran for hours at 100% CPU load that caused the crack in the possible faulty manufactured unit.

I am in the process of hooking everything back up without the typhoon. I have to put my video loop on the same loop as my MB now and am curious what the affects will be of having 6 WB’s in the same loop, and without having a res at all.

I sent an email to Brain at primochill a few days ago but have yet to receive a response.

[century child]

Wow that is not good. I have one of these on the way. This is the first really negative information I have read though so it sounds like you may have just got unlucky. It just makes it worse that they haven't responded to you. Hopefully your post here will draw the attention and help from BoxGods.

What are you using for coolant by the way?

[millertime359]

The T3 PEC at $65.95, and the MCP655 w/ speed controller at $77.95?

Or the T3 Vario at $152.95?

Well add the 2 up and add in shipping and handling and see what's cheaper. They're both going to get you to the same end result.

[millertime359]

I sent an email to Brain at primochill a few days ago but have yet to receive a response.

Calling him is easiest. The number is on Primochill's site. Did you get one with the yellow band?

Edit: o and +1 on Centurychild. Where you using Feser 1 or anything with Glycol in it, or was it distilled water?

[Stuey]

Well add the 2 up and add in shipping and handling and see what's cheaper. They're both going to get you to the same end result.

Unless of course when you order the two together the pump does not come with its retail mounting kit and only comes with the hardware necessary to mount it to the reservoir. That, and some places sell the items separately in which case the shipping for both items will be comparable to the shipping for one.

I noticed the discrepancy as well, but figured that it probably relates to the extra cost of installation and/or packaging. Plus, if someone has a problem with their pump, will Primchill be tasked with handling the warranty claims? That there could very well be the the major reason for the slightly higher cost.

[BoxGods]

thanks for the tips, i messed up by not being able to really tighten down the barb first until after i had the compression fitting on, when i go to duel loop, when i care to get more tygon, ill do it your way.

also btw i need longer screws, i have acrylic holding these in, and the ones supplied are too short. is there anything similar to threading of your screws? i dont really have much to try it with since i have custom standoffs for my HDDs and i dont think its a standard cdrom screw.

The mounting screws to install the T3 in your case are M3.5 so any M3.5 that are long enough to compensate for the extra thickness of your acrylic case will be fine.

[BoxGods]

I sent an email to Brain at primochill a few days ago but have yet to receive a response.

Yeah, Brian likely gets a ton of email (takes forever to answer mine) so your best bet is to either call, or start a support ticket at PrimoChill. I got a hold of Mel at PrimoChill just now and she checked and said there were no support tickets pending...so I would just start a ticket.

About the pressure. Typically a PC water cooling loop's operational pressure is under 5 PSI and ALL Typhoon III's are pressure tested to at least 20 PSI.

They are also tested in a more real world fashion in that a machine with a plate with rubber stoppers that are pressed into place is not used. A real fitting with an O ring is inserted by hand to populate all the ports and an actual D5 is installed. Then the T3 is pressurized with air to 20 PSI and submerged in water for 5 full minutes of observation. That way all the actual O ring surfaces are checked as well as the bonded seam.

The T3 is then dried off with a towel and polished with a blue micro fiber cloth. The last step before packaging is hand inspection that includes a full spectrum light that makes any cracks stand out like a neon sign.

The current fail rate is 2 per 100 or 2%.

That is not to say one didn't sneak by of course, or that some chemical like ethylene glycol or alcohol was not put in or on your part by mistake.

**UPDATE**

Just talked to Brian and he said he does not have an email about this issue. If you can get a ticket started within the next 30 minutes or so your replacement can ship today.

[millertime359]

I have a Cosmos Black Label with that latch system as well.

Thinking of getting a T3 to replace my EK Res. Care to show some pics of the problem with the drive latch?

Much appreciated!

Got some photos for you.

The redrilled holes with screws mounted:


The metal tab (look in the empty bay, you will see them):


T3 mounted:


Edit: link to an internal shot: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=650

[hchristian]

Got some photos for you.

The redrilled holes with screws mounted:


The metal tab (look in the empty bay, you will see them):


T3 mounted:


Edit: link to an internal shot: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=650

Thanks for the pics, I see what you are saying now.

I didn't go through the whole thread but I think some faceplates are incoming for the T3? The acrylic or whatever clear material it's made of doesn't fit well with black case IMO.

[GregSG]

Thx Miller

Clearer understanding of it now

Just wondering, if installing together with the T3, possible to buy any pump accessories for the MCP655?

[BoxGods]

Got some photos for you.


Edit: link to an internal shot: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=650

Nice clean build man, and thanks for the pictures...make it a LOT easier to understand...

[millertime359]

Thanks for the pics, I see what you are saying now.

I didn't go through the whole thread but I think some faceplates are incoming for the T3? The acrylic or whatever clear material it's made of doesn't fit well with black case IMO.

Yea there are some faceplates and BoxGods has some templetes that you can use to paint the face. My camera sucks, it doesn't look that bad in real life, but the black faceplate should make it look better.

Thx Miller

Clearer understanding of it now

Just wondering, if installing together with the T3, possible to buy any pump accessories for the MCP655?

Not certain what your asking for here. Are you asking about the Bitspower kit? I did look into that, but I don't think it will work. It seems that the collar is part of the housing.



The pump sits fairly far into the drivebays. A few guys here just painted the housing on theirs. It will void the warrenty, but it will make it blend in a little nicer. You can also rotate the pump so the sticker faces down. I left mine facing up as you don't really see it and I liked the wires being at the bottom of the pump and not the top.

Thanks much Geno. I'm doing my best to climb my way up to your guy's level. Still got a way to go though.

[idleuser]

can the primochill typhoon III be used with the old school mcp600 pumps? or is it strictly meant to be used with the d5?

[millertime359]

It looks like there is a T3 on Amazon now.