Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[millertime359]

Crazy is offensive. Please refer to them as mentally-challenged PC

I will be certain to let them know you took offense to their name DB

[BoxGods]

But you are supporting a local company. It is nice to have a local store stay in business and available for your random modding needs.

I agree totally. You never know, the jobs your saving could belong to somebody you care about too.

[ptrout]

Just ordered one..........
Just praying this can play nice with the HAF932's weird 5.25 drivebay locking mechanism.

Also I didn't notice a bleed tap on top, so what are most doing ? Just adding a T-line to one of the inlet/outlets ?

I bought it was a nice way to mount the pump, but now I will split my loop into 2

[millertime359]

You tilt the whole case backwards to fill and bleed. You then tip forward to drain the system.

I was thinking about that T-line fill port, but the upper inlet isn't high enough to fill the res completely.

[BoxGods]

I know that a top fill port "feels more comfortable" because that's what we were used to, but once you try the front fill ports you will wonder why somebody didn't do this sooner. Obviously if you have an 80 pound monster cube case...not so easy of course. How often is the pump or reservoir the highest point in one of those builds though? In a normal case/install when you flip the case onto it's back the T3 becomes the highest point which allows you to bleed off ALL the air. Yes it can be a slight drag to rotate the case onto it's back, but you don't have to remove both side panels, take out the mounting screws, slide the rez forward, fill and try to bleed the air in an awkward location, slide the rez back in, replace the mounting screws, line up the reservoir so its flush again, and replace the side panels. And how do you DRAIN one of those? If you look at either the cooling loop or the oil system in your car, it's filled from the top, drained form the bottom. T3 lets you do the same thing.

Just because its a new/different way does not make it bad lol. It IS easier really.

[surfhick]

I bled this in the same manner as Utnorris described. I tried putting the res on top and just cycling it as that worked on every hydraulic system I've worked on. Was getting no where though. Right now there are no bubbles floating around in the res. None flowing through the tubes either. The pump is silent on low speeds. There are still some tiny, really tiny bubbles stuck to the sides. I can't seem to get rid of them. Is this bled enough to run my CPU?
Will the tiny bubbles only go away with time and then another bleeding? Any tips? I'm rocking the thing back and forth and being very careful to not let the pump suck in any more air.



@ ptrout- I had to bend two tabs flat for it to fit. Others have just cut them off. I then dremeled a couple of holes so it would fit flush. Couldn't seem to achieve that using the tool less locks. Mine will just be there to cover up the dremel work.

[Maxspam]

I bled this in the same manner as Utnorris described. I tried putting the res on top and just cycling it as that worked on every hydraulic system I've worked on. Was getting no where though. Right now there are no bubbles floating around in the res. None flowing through the tubes either. The pump is silent on low speeds. There are still some tiny, really tiny bubbles stuck to the sides. I can't seem to get rid of them. Is this bled enough to run my CPU?
Will the tiny bubbles only go away with time and then another bleeding? Any tips? I'm rocking the thing back and forth and being very careful to not let the pump suck in any more air.



@ ptrout- I had to bend two tabs flat for it to fit. Others have just cut them off. I then dremeled a couple of holes so it would fit flush. Couldn't seem to achieve that using the tool less locks. Mine will just be there to cover up the dremel work.

Just leave it running overnight.
They will eventually drift up to the top and form one bigger bubble

[surfhick]

Thanks Maxspam. I'll try that.

[Manicdan]

it does take a while to get every last bit out, which is why a res is much better than a t line to get them out is masses initially, but there will always be some tiny amount stuck somewhere and will have almost no effect, unless you can hear them

[skinnee]

I had some microbubbles left over after bleeding when I was testing, by the time I got back from mowing the lawn they collected and were easy to get out, and this was just my test loops. 100% perfect bleed takes a while.

[Kibbler]

Your unit looks a lot better at the joint than those other pictured masking taped examples. Mind sharing from where you got yours? I wonder if that was a problem with only certain batches which ended up with only a few retailers.

[Waterlogged]

I know that a top fill port "feels more comfortable" because that's what we were used to, but once you try the front fill ports you will wonder why somebody didn't do this sooner. Obviously if you have an 80 pound monster cube case...not so easy of course. How often is the pump or reservoir the highest point in one of those builds though? In a normal case/install when you flip the case onto it's back the T3 becomes the highest point which allows you to bleed off ALL the air. Yes it can be a slight drag to rotate the case onto it's back, but you don't have to remove both side panels, take out the mounting screws, slide the rez forward, fill and try to bleed the air in an awkward location, slide the rez back in, replace the mounting screws, line up the reservoir so its flush again, and replace the side panels. And how do you DRAIN one of those? If you look at either the cooling loop or the oil system in your car, it's filled from the top, drained form the bottom. T3 lets you do the same thing.

Just because its a new/different way does not make it bad lol. It IS easier really.

OK, listen up all you weaklings out there.

[skinnee]

an MM Ascension would be a bear to do that with, if/when I put my T3 in mine I will be tapping a fillport in the front right corner.

[Bei Fei]

Crys

[Utnorris]

an MM Ascension would be a bear to do that with, if/when I put my T3 in mine I will be tapping a fillport in the front right corner.

I have been debating this also Skinnee, however the lip on the MM case would cover that and you would still need to either slide it forward or backwards to get to the hole. I look at it like this, I don't bleed my line daily, so the workout I got doing it was worth it. I still need to get one last bubble out, but since I have been running it for a few days now, I am pretty confident all the air is out of the rads and blocks and is sitting in the top of the res. Also, most folks with regular cases won't have an issue bleeding it. The pros of this pump/res combo easily out weigh the workout I got from bleeding.

I doubt I will tap the top, since once it is setup I shouldn't have to do it very often. I just need to stop tearing my build apart and learn to enjoy it while it is together.

[BoxGods]

it does take a while to get every last bit out, which is why a res is much better than a t line to get them out is masses initially, but there will always be some tiny amount stuck somewhere and will have almost no effect, unless you can hear them

Correct on all counts. Let it run a while, the tiny bubbles will become big bubbles and get caught in the trap where you can then bleed them off. Best way to know is to LISTEN to your pump for the "air rattle"

Your unit looks a lot better at the joint than those other pictured masking taped examples. Mind sharing from where you got yours? I wonder if that was a problem with only certain batches which ended up with only a few retailers.

The T3 shown there is the original bonding method that has the magnified bubble look visible from certain angles when seen from the front. The bubbles are VERY tiny and do not effect the bond at all, but because the T3 is optically clear it works like a little old ladies glasses and makes them LOOK bigger.

To be candid, the reason PrimoChill switched to the clear band (the second method) was because I complained about the bubbles at length. Since I am being candid, the reality is that I probably should have kept my mouth shut.

The second method had a 1/4" band of a clear acrylic like material on the outside which eliminated the bubbles showing in the face problem. After seeing several posts in XS and other forums where users said they were just going to use fluids with Ethylene Glycol despite the warranty Brian was worried those users would have failures down the road and beat the T3 and Primo up in the forums, despite the fact that the warranty says NO ETHYLENE GLYCOL. The clear adhesive is a brand new product on the market and there is no data on long term exposure.

The straw/amber colored material is military grade with a strong (and thoroughly tested) chemical resistance. I couldn't argue with Brian wanting a safety margin as its the better choice. Of course a batch or two got run through the bonding bot 2 or 3 times by mistake which made those units have a much thicker and wider band and the extra thickness makes the color get much darker...and everyone on the forums went WTF?

The normal single pass bond is only slightly amber or straw colored and although not a aesthetically pleasing it provides a FAR superior bond. Brian and the other shops that do post production work have been unable to find a crystal clear material for that bonding band that has the PROVEN chemical resistance a 5 year warranty requires. My shop has not given up however and I do have a promising candidate in the early testing stages.

I also designed and built the bots used in post assembly work so I am the best person to test its performance from the application perspective. Steps were taken on the punch list to insure no more parts pass QC if they are double or triple bonded.

Until I can find an adhesive that meets my requirements for optical clarity, automated delivery, and minimum 25 PSI for 10 minutes pressure testing, and meets Brian's requirement for chemical resistance (we call it the Fesser One test in house lol) the Typhoon III will ship with the light amber (single pass) bonding band.

Sorry for the long post but I just want you all to know the what's and whys of the bonding issue. I am especially sorry every time Bei Fei posts because I would be disappointed too if I were in his place. His T3 will be replaced as soon as he starts an RMA ticket at Primo or ModdersMart.

OK, listen up all you weaklings out there.

The SADDEST part of that image is that I am so old, I actually watched that episode of SNL lol.

I have been debating this also Skinnee, however the lip on the MM case would cover that and you would still need to either slide it forward or backwards to get to the hole. I look at it like this, I don't bleed my line daily, so the workout I got doing it was worth it. I still need to get one last bubble out, but since I have been running it for a few days now, I am pretty confident all the air is out of the rads and blocks and is sitting in the top of the res. Also, most folks with regular cases won't have an issue bleeding it. The pros of this pump/res combo easily out weigh the workout I got from bleeding.

I doubt I will tap the top, since once it is setup I shouldn't have to do it very often. I just need to stop tearing my build apart and learn to enjoy it while it is together.

I couldn't decide on whether to go with "wheres the fun in that?" or "As long as you never pass on a chance to tap the bottom"...

[BoxGods]

On a brighter note, I just heard from Skinnee that the T3 testing/review is in copy editing and SHOULD be published tomorrow...well today (July 22nd) and he says I will be having a "hookers and blow" class celebration when I see the test results because the T3 "terminated" every other pump in the test group. Now I COULD comment on the so so Terminator joke, (though I am betting the "Pump You Up" post above inspired it) but what I really want to know is...when did Skinnee got a copy editor?

Sorry Cam...

[Kibbler]

Thanks for the explanation and clarification

[skinnee]

I mentioned hookers and blow, sure...who doesn't like hookers and blow. But "terminated"..."destroyed" maybe.

[surfhick]

Your unit looks a lot better at the joint than those other pictured masking taped examples. Mind sharing from where you got yours? I wonder if that was a problem with only certain batches which ended up with only a few retailers.

I purchased mine from Moddersmart.

Thanks to everybody explaining how it might take awhile for the remaining bubbles to gather so they can be taken out. I've been wasting a lot of time trying to force it. I even fished one out with a screwdriver.

After reading BoxGods post about the bonding, I'm thinking the stripe might be good. It would never be seen in my rig unless I took it apart.

The more comments I read about its performance, the happier I am that I bought it. I saw how the pump mounted and how I could run an extra loop. That's what sold me. It nice to know that I'm getting exceptional performance too.

[millertime359]

I mentioned hookers and blow, sure...who doesn't like hookers and blow. But "terminated"..."destroyed" maybe.

Sounds like i need to come over to Skinnee's house and help him with testing

[Manicdan]

I purchased mine from Moddersmart.

Thanks to everybody explaining how it might take awhile for the remaining bubbles to gather so they can be taken out. I've been wasting a lot of time trying to force it. I even fished one out with a screwdriver.

im not sure i follow the "forcing" part with bubbles

for me i just give my case a quick shake to rattle up and air the collected in the rads. or i will pinch the line to slow the water and release to give it a nice force of pressure. those methods are probably best done after the case has been siting for a few hours/day, its to collect the air that wasnt in the form of tiny bubbles that could easily go through the system, but to get out the ones "stuck" in various places. keep in mind i also have a heatercore for my rads, so they may have more issues with air getting stuck in them.

[3Z3VH]

I am still wondering why no one has cut a hole in the top of their case to mount the res vertically, with the "front" ports, now pointing up.

[Manicdan]

I am still wondering why no one has cut a hole in the top of their case to mount the res vertically, with the "front" ports, now pointing up.

because i havnt started my next case build yet, it may be a few months. but i promise i will do it

[BoxGods]

I am still wondering why no one has cut a hole in the top of their case to mount the res vertically, with the "front" ports, now pointing up.

I "think" DB's trek build for QuakeCon may actually top mount the T3 with it facing up. Depends on where there is room though I am sure. He will also be using the billeted machined aluminum face plate. Gonna be PIMP!.