Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[Utnorris]

an MM Ascension would be a bear to do that with, if/when I put my T3 in mine I will be tapping a fillport in the front right corner.

I have been debating this also Skinnee, however the lip on the MM case would cover that and you would still need to either slide it forward or backwards to get to the hole. I look at it like this, I don't bleed my line daily, so the workout I got doing it was worth it. I still need to get one last bubble out, but since I have been running it for a few days now, I am pretty confident all the air is out of the rads and blocks and is sitting in the top of the res. Also, most folks with regular cases won't have an issue bleeding it. The pros of this pump/res combo easily out weigh the workout I got from bleeding.

I doubt I will tap the top, since once it is setup I shouldn't have to do it very often. I just need to stop tearing my build apart and learn to enjoy it while it is together.

[BoxGods]

it does take a while to get every last bit out, which is why a res is much better than a t line to get them out is masses initially, but there will always be some tiny amount stuck somewhere and will have almost no effect, unless you can hear them

Correct on all counts. Let it run a while, the tiny bubbles will become big bubbles and get caught in the trap where you can then bleed them off. Best way to know is to LISTEN to your pump for the "air rattle"

Your unit looks a lot better at the joint than those other pictured masking taped examples. Mind sharing from where you got yours? I wonder if that was a problem with only certain batches which ended up with only a few retailers.

The T3 shown there is the original bonding method that has the magnified bubble look visible from certain angles when seen from the front. The bubbles are VERY tiny and do not effect the bond at all, but because the T3 is optically clear it works like a little old ladies glasses and makes them LOOK bigger.

To be candid, the reason PrimoChill switched to the clear band (the second method) was because I complained about the bubbles at length. Since I am being candid, the reality is that I probably should have kept my mouth shut.

The second method had a 1/4" band of a clear acrylic like material on the outside which eliminated the bubbles showing in the face problem. After seeing several posts in XS and other forums where users said they were just going to use fluids with Ethylene Glycol despite the warranty Brian was worried those users would have failures down the road and beat the T3 and Primo up in the forums, despite the fact that the warranty says NO ETHYLENE GLYCOL. The clear adhesive is a brand new product on the market and there is no data on long term exposure.

The straw/amber colored material is military grade with a strong (and thoroughly tested) chemical resistance. I couldn't argue with Brian wanting a safety margin as its the better choice. Of course a batch or two got run through the bonding bot 2 or 3 times by mistake which made those units have a much thicker and wider band and the extra thickness makes the color get much darker...and everyone on the forums went WTF?

The normal single pass bond is only slightly amber or straw colored and although not a aesthetically pleasing it provides a FAR superior bond. Brian and the other shops that do post production work have been unable to find a crystal clear material for that bonding band that has the PROVEN chemical resistance a 5 year warranty requires. My shop has not given up however and I do have a promising candidate in the early testing stages.

I also designed and built the bots used in post assembly work so I am the best person to test its performance from the application perspective. Steps were taken on the punch list to insure no more parts pass QC if they are double or triple bonded.

Until I can find an adhesive that meets my requirements for optical clarity, automated delivery, and minimum 25 PSI for 10 minutes pressure testing, and meets Brian's requirement for chemical resistance (we call it the Fesser One test in house lol) the Typhoon III will ship with the light amber (single pass) bonding band.

Sorry for the long post but I just want you all to know the what's and whys of the bonding issue. I am especially sorry every time Bei Fei posts because I would be disappointed too if I were in his place. His T3 will be replaced as soon as he starts an RMA ticket at Primo or ModdersMart.

OK, listen up all you weaklings out there.

The SADDEST part of that image is that I am so old, I actually watched that episode of SNL lol.

I have been debating this also Skinnee, however the lip on the MM case would cover that and you would still need to either slide it forward or backwards to get to the hole. I look at it like this, I don't bleed my line daily, so the workout I got doing it was worth it. I still need to get one last bubble out, but since I have been running it for a few days now, I am pretty confident all the air is out of the rads and blocks and is sitting in the top of the res. Also, most folks with regular cases won't have an issue bleeding it. The pros of this pump/res combo easily out weigh the workout I got from bleeding.

I doubt I will tap the top, since once it is setup I shouldn't have to do it very often. I just need to stop tearing my build apart and learn to enjoy it while it is together.

I couldn't decide on whether to go with "wheres the fun in that?" or "As long as you never pass on a chance to tap the bottom"...