Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[sinticfury]

I dont think anyone has rated it but heres my 2 cents

9/10 on performance, still dont understand how the water is pumped

8/10 on looks, I would like an acetal version

10/10 on design, who wouldve thought?

Overall 9.5/10

[karbonkid]

Postman brought mine today.

First impressions are awesome. Mine has that straw-coloured band; don't mind it to be honest, it'll be invisible when installed in a case. I was also surpried to find it came with compression fittings! I was going to run 2 3/8" loops, but now I'm considering swithcing the rad-only loop to 1/2"... If only I'd known when I ordered...

[BoxGods]

I heard from Skinnee last night that he had begun testing different hardware in various dual loop configurations for real world numbers and that the results matched Vapors calculations to closer then .03 GPM. My hat is off to you Vapor as I cant seem to get closer then .125 GPM. Kind of driving me nuts but I understand your going to be passing along your calculations =)

I don't want to steal Skinnee's show so I will only post one:

Serial : EK D5(FITO), GTZ, RX360, EK-9600GT, RX360, [1.40GPM]

Loop A : T3 LILO, RX360, GTZ, [1.49GPM]
Loop B : T3 TITO, RX360, EK-96GT [1.98GPM]

For a net 2.07GPM system flow increase or 248% bump.

Although he repeated how mind blowingly insane that was about 5 times it's not official till his review comes out.

He also suggested some sort of online configuration wizard where the user can select their parts from a drop down in various loop configurations to try different loop combination to see what the best one would be or if a single loop is better for a particular setup. I like that idea as it seems people are still trying to get their head around the new possibilities Typhoon III brings to the party. I will see about making it happen as soon as I can.

I know everyone is eager for his results--none more so then me as we may be looking at a new king of the hill for the D5 (and by a HUGE margin =) but he is busting his hump to get a LOT of testing done so hang in there.

[BoxGods]

Edit: I immagine that if I had my cpu loop and rad loops, the cpu loop (GTZ) would be much lower restriction. The water from the cpu would circulate more than the water for the radiators, hence more warm watter from my cpu would be re-circulated meaning that I get warmer water at my block?

I can't really get my head around how that works... could someone please point out if there is an error in my judgment.

Try to see the reservoir portion as a large intermix chamber. Water from both loops arrives there, is mixed, and leaves almost 16 times a minute. Because we use a closed loop system, essentially ALL the water passes through every component in your loop. Try not to think of each water molecule but rather see the water as a single unit because for all intents and purposes most systems will always try to hit equilibrium. There are examples of that all around you--if you press the valve in a car tire air will rush out until the pressure inside matches the pressure outside. Link two tires (or tanks) with different pressure levels together and the pressure from the higher tank will force its way into the other until they have equalized. Temperature is the same, especially in a hydrolic environment. Everything about water cooling comes down to how efficiently you manage that tendency towards equilibrium.

I dont think anyone has rated it but heres my 2 cents

9/10 on performance, still dont understand how the water is pumped

8/10 on looks, I would like an acetal version

10/10 on design, who wouldve thought?

Overall 9.5/10

As the designer, thanks...I think?

Postman brought mine today.

First impressions are awesome. Mine has that straw-coloured band; don't mind it to be honest, it'll be invisible when installed in a case. I was also surpried to find it came with compression fittings! I was going to run 2 3/8" loops, but now I'm considering swithcing the rad-only loop to 1/2"... If only I'd known when I ordered...

Those fittings come in colors too, including 4 new ones coming out shortly

[Utnorris]

hey, would anyone be able to tell me if i would gain anything from running this with my build?

evga classified x58 760
i7 920(d0)
12gb ram
evga 285 gtx 2gb

my wc components so far are

Cpu - heatkiller rev 3 lg 1366
nb/sb mosfet - ek-fb classified acetal - nickel
gpu - EK-FC285 GTX PCB Rev.2 SLI - Acetal+Nickel gonna have 2 in sli later on

Rad's - feser 360 (and a feser 240 if need be)

so do you guys think i would benefit from this res+pump in theory i would think my sub loops would go like this

sub loop 1
res<rad(360)<(nb cooler?),Cpu<res

sub loop 2
res<(if i need a 2nd rad 240)(nb cooler?)<gpu<(eventually gpu#2)<res

as you can see im not sure where to put the nb chipset cooler in sub 1 or 2

or would i be better off with 2 seperate loops?

thank you for the help

I have almost the same setup as you except my Heatkiller was in a loop on it's own and my 3 x GTX280's were using the EVGA hydrocopper blocks. Before I noticed that I had great flow on the GPU side and low flow on the Heatkiller side. Both had the same exact components other than the blocks and the Heatkiller had way less flow. With the new setup and both in sub loops instead of separate loops I have noticed an increase in flow from both sides, specifically the cpu side. Now I am just in the leak testing stage, so i cannot say if it will translate into better temps, but at the very least I have better flow and only one pump and one res instead of two, so to me that makes it worth it. I work on the weekends, so I probably will not get completely setup until next week, but we should see some results from Skinnee's review that should give us an idea of what to expect.

[Barso]

I have accidently connected the reservoir to pump the water through my RAD and then through the outlet and then the inlet of my Swiftech GTZ and then back into the reservoir.
Do I really need to swap the tubes around or will I see no difference?
Thanks and loving the typhoon III

Sorry for bumping this up the queue.

[Utnorris]

Can you give a little more details of how your loop is setup. It will make it easier to understand exactly what you have going on.

[Barso]

I have inlet of res to inlet of CPU block to rad and then rad to outlet of res.
The reservoir tubes need swapped but do I really need to?

[millertime359]

I have inlet of res to inlet of CPU block to rad and then rad to outlet of res.
The reservoir tubes need swapped but do I really need to?

You probably should seeing it seems your loop is running backwards and there is an inlet and outlet on the GTZ.

So if I read this right. You are going pump ----> rad ---> outlet of GTZ ---> Inlet GTZ ---> pump

People have said they never noticed a difference in mixing up the inlet and outlet, but I would just change it so no concerns

[Utnorris]

I would change it, but all you should have to do is change it at the block.

[Utnorris]

Ok, so I have had a little time to get it set up, bleed and leak tested and therefore I thought I would share.

Right off the back if you are going to use a fitting that has a fat bottom such as a compression fitting I would suggest going ahead and swapping the original o-ring out with a thicker one. I found that on my BP 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD fittings that the original o-ring was not thick enough to may a good seal, so I simply replaced them with thicker o-rings, problem solved.

Next, I would suggest filling the loop as much as possible and leak test before bleeding. The reason I suggest this is because if you mount the res in your 5 1/4" bay as recommended and intend on tilting the case onto it's back to fill/bleed, then it's a good idea to know it isn't going to leak while doing the bleeding. It's much easier to concentrate on the bleeding part without having to worry if you have a possible leak in the case.

Now I originally planned on leaving enough tubing on to allow for me to pull the res out and fill/bleed from there. I have a rather large case that weighs about 50lbs when the rads are filled and so I didn't want to tip it on it's back. Well, I didn't like having the extra tubing, wasn't very clean looking, so I shortened the tubing and decided I would just put the case on it's back. So bleeding can take some time depending on the location of your rads. Since mine are on the front, getting the air out required me to put it on it's back, fill, bleed, close it up and then put it back right side up. At this point I would run it again and get more air out of the blocks and then put the case on it's back and repeat. This took me roughly an hour to complete due to the case and configuration I was dealing with, most probably will not have this issue.

Now as far as the bleeding goes, if you have a variable speed pump then I would suggest starting off at 1 and move up to 5 working the air out as I described above. You could just bleed using 1, however I find that I have to increase the speed in order to knock the air loose from the blocks and rads. As you fill the res up, allow the res to over fill a little so the air comes out the hole and doesn't get sucked back into the pump and it will as you speed the pump up, no getting around it.

So, it's setup, yes I still have a couple small bubles about the size of a pencil head, but it should be ready for me to play with when I get off work tonight. I hope my sharing my experience will help others getting theirs setup quicker and easier.

I am looking forward to Skinnee's review, although I have a good idea on how it is going to come out based on my observations so far, but I think it will be very informing, not to mention thorough.

Thanks

[nypunkgeek]

Nice write up of tips. Yeah I added a second radiator on the bottom of my case and have to do the tipping back and forth to get it bled out properly. Luckily I think my Stacker 820 is lighter than whatever you are using, lol.

[Barso]

I have noticed that the very top edge of the front face of the reservoir has a scrape or rough edge.
Is this part of the moulding process or is my unit damaged?
Sorry but I am extremely fussy and tidy about my PC

[Utnorris]

I have noticed that the very top edge of the front face of the reservoir has a scrape or rough edge.
Is this part of the moulding process or is my unit damaged?
Sorry but I am extremely fussy and tidy about my PC

Post a pic, so we can see what you are talking about. It is probably a molding thing, but without seeing it I cannot say for sure.

[Barso]

I won't be able to post but if you run your finger along the top edge, you can feel and see it.
Sorry but I was only looking for someone to compare with,to put myself at ease.
Also the swiftech pump that was supplied with the unit says D4 basic stamped on the bottom, the unit is advertised as being sold with a D5.

[nypunkgeek]

I won't be able to post but if you run your finger along the top edge, you can feel and see it.
Sorry but I was only looking for someone to compare with,to put myself at ease.
Also the swiftech pump that was supplied with the unit says D4 basic stamped on the bottom, the unit is advertised as being sold with a D5.

I think that the label might be if it is the one that is set to a specific speed it is set to what is 4 on the variable setting. Not sure if that is what that is about, but it is my not very educated guess.

I would check my T3, but I finally got everything back together and really don't want to rip it apart again, lol.

[Oupavoc]

so...is this better then having a detroit top?

[Barso]

It seems primochill are using this to get rid of old stock of D4 basic pumps.

[Utnorris]

so...is this better then having a detroit top?

Yes in the sense that it's a combo res and pump where as the Detroit is just a top. Does either perform better than the other? You will have to either wait for Skinnee to finish testing or try it out yourself.

It seems primochill are using this to get rid of old stock of D4 basic pumps.

Ok, not sure who you ordered yours through, but it should have been either the D5 with no speed control or the D5 with speed control. Call them up or email them and ask why you have the pump you have. If they cannot give you a satisfactory answer, return it and buy just the res by itself and then the pump. It's actually cheaper that way and you get 8 fittings instead of 4 (4 x 1/2" and 4 x 3/8"). At least from Jab-tech his kits have the 8 fittings and it saves you about $10.

[Barso]

I live in the United Kingdom and the company has imported them from primochill.
It seems that I am now going to return it and do what you said.

[Utnorris]

Yeah, not sure why you would have gotten a D4. Are you sure it wasn't the reseller that did it? Did it come in one complete box or two separate boxes that were then boxed together?

[Barso]

2 seperate boxes,boxed together.
It seems the seller has pulled the wool!!!!
I will contacting them Monday to have a word.
I hate sellers that do these type of things.
They are obviously keeping the D5's that primochill sell and swapping them when they arrive.
They claim to be the official distributor for primochill here.

[skinnee]

You guys are gonna flip your lids when the Dual Loop numbers come out...

is the only emoticon even close to the flow gains over a single serial loop. Geno posted some numbers earlier and I think they may have been scrolled over, let me post this again.

One Serial Loop : Res-> D5 (Setting 5) with EK V2 Top (Front Inlet Top Outlet) -> Swiftech GTZ -> XSPC RX360 -> EK-9600GT -> RX360 -> Flow Meter-> Res
System Flow Rate: 1.40 GPM / 318.0 LPH

Typhoon III D5 Setting 5
Loop 1 : T3 Lower Outlet -> GTZ -> XSPC RX360 -> Flow Meter -> T3 Lower Inlet - 1.49 GPM / 338.4 LPH
Loop 2 : T3 Top Outlet -> EK-9600GT -> XSPC RX360 -> Flow Meter -> T3 Top Inlet - 1.98 GPM / 449.7 LPH
System Flow Rate: 3.47 GPM / 788.1 LPH

The Typhoon III more than doubles the system flow rate ((3.47/1.40)/2)=123.98%)...

Now I'm off to mow the lawn before my wife suffocates me in my sleep, she'll do it too.

[alacheesu]

One Serial Loop : Res-> D5 (Setting 5) with EK V2 Top (Front Inlet Top Outlet) -> Swiftech GTZ -> XSPC RX360 -> EK-9600GT -> RX360 -> Flow Meter-> Res
System Flow Rate: 1.40 GPM / 318.0 LPH

Typhoon III D5 Setting 5
Loop 1 : T3 Lower Outlet -> GTZ -> XSPC RX360 -> Flow Meter -> T3 Lower Inlet - 1.49 GPM / 338.4 LPH
Loop 2 : T3 Top Outlet -> EK-9600GT -> XSPC RX360 -> Flow Meter -> T3 Top Inlet - 1.98 GPM / 449.7 LPH
System Flow Rate: 3.47 GPM / 788.1 LPH

Looks awesome. Waiting patiently for the full review.

The Typhoon III more than doubles the system flow rate ((3.47/1.40)/2)=123.98%)...

You mean, (3.47-1.40)/1.40 = 148%, right? :P

[Utnorris]

wow!!!!