Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[troelsm]

Edit above, only realised after I posted. Also, any opinions on feeding CPU1 warm water straight from CPU0? Detrimental?

The difference in temperature of the water going into CPU0 and coming out again is very minimal. Probably something around 0.3 celcius at max. The order of your components in a seriel loop doesn't really matter much.

About doing two loops. Even though none of the 3 components are very restrictive the radiator still benefits from higher flow rates. Unless you could max out your pumps flowrate with the seriel loop i'd think you would get an (tiny) improvement by splitting it up to two loops using the T3. If i understand the principles of the T3 that should give you more flowrate through each loops than you had in the one seriel loop. Since your blocks aren't very flow dependant it would only make a difference in the radiator loop, where you'd have more water going through and therefore more cooling.

I'm guessing it would be a very tiny gain though. Probably much better for people with more flow dependant loops.
Also if you are going with two loops you have to make sure both loops are equaliy restrictive, or close atleast.

Edit: If you do try the dual loop where you have a "radiator-only" loop, i'd very much like to hear how it goes. If it is a viable way to go i'm pretty sure i'll do that too.

[BoxGods]

The difference in temperature of the water going into CPU0 and coming out again is very minimal. Probably something around 0.3 celcius at max. The order of your components in a seriel loop doesn't really matter much.

About doing two loops. Even though none of the 3 components are very restrictive the radiator still benefits from higher flow rates. Unless you could max out your pumps flowrate with the seriel loop i'd think you would get an (tiny) improvement by splitting it up to two loops using the T3. If i understand the principles of the T3 that should give you more flowrate through each loops than you had in the one seriel loop. Since your blocks aren't very flow dependant it would only make a difference in the radiator loop, where you'd have more water going through and therefore more cooling.

I'm guessing it would be a very tiny gain though. Probably much better for people with more flow dependant loops.
Also if you are going with two loops you have to make sure both loops are equaliy restrictive, or close atleast.

Edit: If you do try the dual loop where you have a "radiator-only" loop, i'd very much like to hear how it goes. If it is a viable way to go i'm pretty sure i'll do that too.

Without seeing your actual plumbing runs my unofficial opinion is that you will in fact see a slight improvement with the rad on it's own loop because your running the triple and rads by their very nature do like lots of flow. Vapor is correct that the pair of low restriction blocks would not benefit much by splitting the loops. That's in a best case scenario where running both cpu blocks on one loop gives you the shortest and cleanest plumbing run, which it most likely will.

One thing I think some are missing is that the water in the T3 reservoir is cycled almost 16 times a minute and that there is a great deal of intermix happening. Vapor alluded to that when he mentioned how the entire loop or loops will equalize or hit equilibrium.

One other point I think people are suddenly starting to hit on is the fact that the T3 just flat out offers you a lot of options you didn't have before. Because it makes filling and draining your system so easy there is no reason you can't try several different combination. I think the unofficial slogan for T3 ought to be "Tube is cheap. Go for it."

This is a hobby and hobbies are about fun.

[karbonkid]

Without seeing your actual plumbing runs my unofficial opinion is that you will in fact see a slight improvement with the rad on it's own loop because your running the triple and rads by their very nature do like lots of flow. Vapor is correct that the pair of low restriction blocks would not benefit much by splitting the loops. That's in a best case scenario where running both cpu blocks on one loop gives you the shortest and cleanest plumbing run, which it most likely will.

One thing I think some are missing is that the water in the T3 reservoir is cycled almost 16 times a minute and that there is a great deal of intermix happening. Vapor alluded to that when he mentioned how the entire loop or loops will equalize or hit equilibrium.

One other point I think people are suddenly starting to hit on is the fact that the T3 just flat out offers you a lot of options you didn't have before. Because it makes filling and draining your system so easy there is no reason you can't try several different combination. I think the unofficial slogan for T3 ought to be "Tube is cheap. Go for it."

This is a hobby and hobbies are about fun.

Well put. The fact is I wouldn't even have options like these without the T3, so whichever ends up working better, it's still going to be down to the T3 itself. Can't wait for the postman to arrive tomorrow . Thanks for designing such a great product

[Barso]

What is the best way to run a loop?
There are no instructions and I am running resrvoir to CPU block and then rad and back to reservoir.
If I look at the back of the T3, where are the best places to put my barbs for one inlet and 1 outlet?
Thanks.

[Bei Fei]

Hopefully I will get a chance to play with mine soon (should be here today). I am going to put my CPU block on loop A with my TFC 360 rad, and I will put my videocard, chipset block, and a dual 120 rad on the second loop. I will let you know how it works out.

[damunk]

What is the best way to run a loop?
There are no instructions and I am running resrvoir to CPU block and then rad and back to reservoir.
If I look at the back of the T3, where are the best places to put my barbs for one inlet and 1 outlet?
Thanks.

The 2 inlets closest to the pump should look different from the outter 2. If im correct there was a extra chamber that pushed the water into the pump with force. So the 2 closest to the pump would be the inlets.

I haven't gotten mine yet, but if I remember correctly then this should be right ^^

[coolmiester]

The 2 inlets closest to the pump should look different from the outter 2. If im correct there was a extra chamber that pushed the water into the pump with force. So the 2 closest to the pump would be the inlets.

I haven't gotten mine yet, but if I remember correctly then this should be right ^^

Other way round - outlets closest to the pump

[damunk]

Other way round - outlets closest to the pump

It was the other way around indeed
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/foru...8&postcount=31

[DarthBeavis]

Other way round - outlets closest to the pump

I used teh holes in the front as outlets

[BoxGods]

What is the best way to run a loop?
There are no instructions and I am running resrvoir to CPU block and then rad and back to reservoir.
If I look at the back of the T3, where are the best places to put my barbs for one inlet and 1 outlet?
Thanks.

I am going to get to the directions this weekend. VERY sorry I have let that slide...just not a fun project and I am swamped getting everyone ready for QuakeCon.

Here is an explanation of the ports:



Ports A and B are OUTLETS.

Ports C and D are INLETS.

For a single loop configuration you can pick either A or B as your outlet and either C or D for your inlet. Any combination is fine.

For Dual loops use A and B as your OUTLETS and C and D as your INLETS.

In some cases you may want to run 2 lines in and one line out to suit your configuration. Either out port (A or B) is fine.

Hope that clears things up a bit.

[BoxGods]

I used teh holes in the front as outlets

Funny DB.

You CAN actually use those two ports on the front as an additional pair of inlets btw.

There are times when that could be handy.

[DarthBeavis]

Funny DB.

You CAN actually use those two ports on the front as an additional pair of inlets btw.

There are times when that could be handy.

This is the easiest way to fill a loop ever I should add. crazy easy

[Barso]

How do I mount the reservoir in the front of the coolermaster cosmos s?
The drive slots are in the way and stop the reservoir being mounted.

[coolmiester]

How do I mount the reservoir in the front of the coolermaster cosmos s?
The drive slots are in the way and stop the reservoir being mounted.

Was wondering when this one would come to light.

Basically you need to cut the little tabs off the case which isn't ideal but is doable though i think it should have been in the design of the T3 to have a groove, front to back like the XSPC res

[Utnorris]

Where do the LED's go? I do not see a hole for them or am I just missing something?
Thanks

[surfhick]

How do I mount the reservoir in the front of the coolermaster cosmos s?
The drive slots are in the way and stop the reservoir being mounted.

I just flattened mine. I only had to do the front ones as the rear ones clear.

The LEDs go into plastic hole plugs. I didn't see any other place to mount them.

[BoxGods]

Was wondering when this one would come to light.

Basically you need to cut the little tabs off the case which isn't ideal but is doable though i think it should have been in the design of the T3 to have a groove, front to back like the XSPC res

Sadly I can't think of everything

If I had added them it would have made other users complain about the additional costs (more machining for all the extra draft etc) or the loss of volume internally etc.

Where do the LED's go? I do not see a hole for them or am I just missing something?
Thanks

Use the included LED plug cap to tighten the plug, slide the LED into the hole on the back of the plug, flip the cap and slide the wire into the groove and thread it on to the plug. The LED plugs are tool free in that their cap acts as a wrench AND as the holder to keep the LED in place. Also, if you accidentally over tighten a plug and you can't get a good enough grip on the knurled cap wrench, the slot in it will accept a slotted screw driver just fine.

I just flattened mine. I only had to do the front ones as the rear ones clear.

The LEDs go into plastic hole plugs. I didn't see any other place to mount them.

A case modder to the rescue WOOT!

[Utnorris]

Ehhh, it only has four G 1/4" fitting holes in the back, if I use two for LED's, doesn't that defeat the purpose of dual loops? Again, I must be missing something, so if you have a pic handy that would be great.
Thanks.

[DarthBeavis]

Ehhh, it only has four G 1/4" fitting holes in the back, if I use two for LED's, doesn't that defeat the purpose of dual loops? Again, I must be missing something, so if you have a pic handy that would be great.
Thanks.

you are right about that. I will probably use an LED strip to light it up (attach it with magical modder pixie dust).

[millertime359]

Ehhh, it only has four G 1/4" fitting holes in the back, if I use two for LED's, doesn't that defeat the purpose of dual loops? Again, I must be missing something, so if you have a pic handy that would be great.
Thanks.

What about the 2 on the front?

[Utnorris]

Also, mine has a white stripe around it joining the two parts, I didn't see it in the PICS on Primochill's website. It kinda kills the look, luckily it will be hidden in the case, but still.

[Bei Fei]

Man am I dissapointed

compare the pics above to the actual product. Primochill fail

The ugly white stripe kills product. Is this a bait and switch or what?

[bluehaze]

Man am I dissapointed

compare the pics above to the actual product. Primochill fail

The ugly white stripe kills product. Is this a bait and switch or what?

Can you peel the strip off? Seems strange that they would post pictures of a very nice looking piece then sell something totally different to customers. I would be rather upset if I recieved one in that condition.

[Bei Fei]

Nope it is some hard plastic bonding material. I am not the only one with this type of garbage.

[BoxGods]

The original process bonded the two halves together using the ledge/lip built into the part but there were bubbles visible from the front, like how glasses can make eyes look bigger. They switched to a process that put a crystal clear band on but people complained about not being able to use a fluid with Ethylene Glycol.

I told them people would hate that band if it were straw colored lol. To be fair, the one you have looks much thicker then normal and the protective paper on the acrylic mount adds some color. When filled it is not quite so noticeable, and of course is invisible when installed.