Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[BoxGods]

I got mine for two reasons.
1. It provides a really neat place to mount my pump. My pump won't be all that easy to see. When I get it finished I think I'll have a clean set up.
2. I'll only have to add a radiator and block to cool my video card.

The Typhoon III is an expensive reservoir. Initial investment, that is. I'll save, in the long run, when I expand.
I saw another reservoir that can hold two D5s but it looks like they go on the bottom. That would take up another bay. (at least)

I do have a question about it though. It comes with 4 acrylic(?) washers. Do they go between the pump hold-down plate and the res body?

The only thing I would like better about it. I wish it had a top fill port that matched my HAFs fill port. I've managed to get it to be the top componant in my loop.

There are actually small acrylic washers that go on the rubber mounting washers just to spread out the load.

There are also acrylic SPACERS that are included for the 8 poly carbonate compression fittings that come with the T3. The T3 uses a cavity (for want of a better word) to retain the O ring so it doesn't spread out under compression. The poly compression fittings fit that cavity so no spacer needed for T3 mounting (or on any other part with the O ring captivation on the part) but if users want to mount the compression fittings in any parts that don't have the cavity, the spacer slips right on and your good to go.

As for the front fill ports. They are designed that way for several reasons. The goal was for the easiest to install, fill, bleed, and drain system I could come up with. It had to be that for as many different set ups as possible, and for users from novice to uber. With those ports on the front, with the over flow basins to prevent accidents, with two ports so one fills while the other expels trapped air, and the concave inner face you get ease of use no rez with top mounted fill ports can touch.

Post some pictures of your setup man. I honestly get a huge kick out of seeing how people use and mod this stuff.

[surfhick]

There are actually small acrylic washers that go on the rubber mounting washers just to spread out the load.

There are also acrylic SPACERS that are included for the 8 poly carbonate compression fittings that come with the T3. The T3 uses a cavity (for want of a better word) to retain the O ring so it doesn't spread out under compression. The poly compression fittings fit that cavity so no spacer needed for T3 mounting (or on any other part with the O ring captivation on the part) but if users want to mount the compression fittings in any parts that don't have the cavity, the spacer slips right on and your good to go.

As for the front fill ports. They are designed that way for several reasons. The goal was for the easiest to install, fill, bleed, and drain system I could come up with. It had to be that for as many different set ups as possible, and for users from novice to uber. With those ports on the front, with the over flow basins to prevent accidents, with two ports so one fills while the other expels trapped air, and the concave inner face you get ease of use no rez with top mounted fill ports can touch.

Post some pictures of your setup man. I honestly get a huge kick out of seeing how people use and mod this stuff.

Thank you. I was using the washers in this manner. I just wasn't sure. I didn't even see the ones on the fittings until I read your post. To retain the o-rings in their seats. I'm trying my first case modding and watercooling at the same time. I started out just painting the case. Looking at it, though, I couldn't help but notice how a radiator would fit underneath the top. When researching parts, I liked how I could mount amy pump right to the back of the Typhoon. I think this will make for a cleaner looking loop. You have to look pretty hard to even see the pump. The reservoir with its LEDs will be the only place my water has any color to it. I plan to line the hoses with primochill's yellow anti kink coils. I just need some clamps and elbow fittings to arrive before I finish. My radiator is a swiftech 320 and the top fans will be the Enermax ones with the orange blades. I was afraid of having too many LEDs.

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[Oberon]

Yea, I wouldn't think it would work either. You would basically be turning the res into the rad. I would be interesting to hear from BoxGods if he took that into consideration during the design of this thing.

The temperature of the water everywhere in the loop will be roughly the same (yay for steady state!), so it wouldn't matter if you had the rad and block on different loops.

[BoxGods]

Thank you. I was using the washers in this manner. I just wasn't sure. I didn't even see the ones on the fittings until I read your post. To retain the o-rings in their seats. I'm trying my first case modding and watercooling at the same time. I started out just painting the case. Looking at it, though, I couldn't help but notice how a radiator would fit underneath the top. When researching parts, I liked how I could mount amy pump right to the back of the Typhoon. I think this will make for a cleaner looking loop. You have to look pretty hard to even see the pump. The reservoir with its LEDs will be the only place my water has any color to it. I plan to line the hoses with primochill's yellow anti kink coils. I just need some clamps and elbow fittings to arrive before I finish. My radiator is a swiftech 320 and the top fans will be the Enermax ones with the orange blades. I was afraid of having too many LEDs.

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I know lots of companies claim they are real gamers or real modders...I have several hundred mods under my belt though so when I Drew up the T3 it was first and foremost a part for case modders. I could have reversed the pump side with the fitting side for example but that would have made the tubing too far back into the case and the pump (and it's power wire) right in your face. Obviously I didn't ignore performance, but performance is also about how something makes you feel too. Look at the bike above. If you can stare at that and NOT think of a beautiful woman...then you likely ARE a woman lol.

I am so glad your enjoying your T3's and thank you for the pictures.

Edit: The acrylic fitting spacers are ONLY needed if your using the fittings in a part that does NOT have the recess for the O ring built in. The T3 DOES have the recess so you do NOT need to use the spacer with it.