lets ALL figure out the fogging of tubing issues!!!

[railmeat]

*ATTN pros who feel this thread is above them and want to post negative comments here to start a fight,plz dont..ty*

this is only a help thread on a common problem(fogging\hazing).if there is a PROVEN solution then please post it here for me to see with my own eyes.im going to keep this thread ALIVE and update it frequently for other guys to see my results...this can help im sure and i have NEVER seen a periodic timetable for fogging\hazing on a new fresh install of tubing(Tygon r3603) after 3 hour flushing my system WELL.as i said i will update alot days\weeks\months on my results for a better feel on this subject.im sick of myself and others redoing there setups with new tubing,adding there fluid of choice looking wiked\takin pics then lil while later BAM..fogged!im currently waiting for the engineer at tygon to call my cell phone with some more in depth questions i have for him.


before we get started lemme explain my setup(5 years old).pretty similar component wise to others but diff design layout.before the days of the "waterkeg" design i built my setup that looks earily like it out of a type 304 stainlees steel sheet(i made a custom box\welded\polished) to sit UNDER my pc and house everything.this includes my res,rad,and pump are all in it sharing NO ambiet air with my pc internals.heres some pics\specs etc.take a glance then we can get this thread started.

my specs(nothing special really)

triple 120mm rad -black ice extreme

swiftech p655 pump

1\2in tygon r3603

danger den cpu block rd600 modded to go on my northbridge(works VERY well)

i have a crappy CAM phone so please ease back on the pokes at the crappy quality,lol i know there not good pics but u get the jist of it..some newer\older setups but generally the water setup same now still.
















older setups....intel and amd single\dual core days 6800ultra,7900gtx,8800gts,8800gtx

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0gtx3700sd.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1.../bf2nut6-1.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...t/IMG_1461.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...t/IMG_1465.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j11/bf2nut/purty.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...t/IMG_1460.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...gotcooling.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...t/IMG_1444.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1.../bf2nut4-1.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1.../bf2nut1-1.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...tfanbf2nut.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...t/trashram.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j11/bf2nut/88002.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...termodding.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...00nbon750i.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...hotcloser1.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...t/newshot1.jpg

yes i had been working with water a lil bit threw the years as u see if u clicked the links...been messin since the geforce2 quad pro days :o gamer for life,this is why gaming pcs are built =)



--------------------------------------------------------------------------

so lets get started...
ok i been into water cooling for like 5 or so years now and anytime my tubing would fog\haze up i simply would sigh and replace(yay).well i just did that and THIS TIME im thinking after MANY attempts with additaves\anti this anti that crap bleh that i can get it right....

the attempt is fo me to see how long its going to take my TYGON r-3603 (the good stuff) to fog\haze up and why being im only running distalled water this time around after a 3 hour flush session.the distalled water is ok im thinking being im going to flush it once a month now and see how that goes.


now i read scillion threads on this topic of tubing hazing\fogging and threw my own setup i have come to find out some facts for myself.

facts i found in my setup when fogging occurs below

*ANY primochill,zerex,fluid x-p,pc pure etc(plus the scillion other namebrands) additaves will DEFINATLY fog tubing.

*now a defeinate fogger to tubing is the pre-mixed colored fluids(yes they look cool for about a month tops) or WORSE yet the drops\bombs to intensify the color almost instantly fogs tubing when pc is off.then turn your pc on it looks faded,yay...great stuff we got options to buy..pfft.

*all tubing is like a sponge and when it dries(pump\pc off) whatever is left is literaly drying and staining the tubing period.the worst is with the colors like i was saying.


now im currently running just distalled water with NOTHING added and want to see how long it will stay clear.i also am going to easily flush this once a month...time will tell.

my question for any of u here is have u ever just run straight this stuff?if so what are the results?does it fog\haze?

well i orderd 3 bottles and going to fill my setup with it and see how it holds up fog\haze wise.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/feaqfaulpuwa.html

[railmeat]

Feser Aqua - FA - Ultra Pure Water - 1 Liter $5.50 3 bottles $16.50
Subtotal: $16.50
Shipping: $16.45
Tax: $0.00
Total: $32.95

yes the shipping is the same as the water..lol i know.i could care less i want this stuff.

$33 for water,rofl...


we shall see.....keep u all posted.

[Sadasius]

I just buy my water at Shoppers Drug Mart right near my house. Dirt cheap! I make sure it's the stuff without fluoride. I find the fluoride is responsible for many chemical reactions in a loop. Some water is distilled but from fluoridated water source and has fluoride. Distilling does not get rid of it. But there is distilled water from non-fluoridated water and that I find is much much better and less chemical reactions.

[Snyxxx]

I know a simialr thread went around a year or two ago and the result was plasticizer leeching out of the tubing and fogging.

I use only distilled water and get the fogging in a matter of days with 3603. Even if I simply place a pices of 3603 in a glass of distilled water, it fogs.

Many people tried the other variants of Tygon without plasticizer, but they were very stiff and made the tight turns difficult for our application.

Edit: here is the thread:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ht=plasticizer

[NaeKuh]

I know a simialr thread went around a year or two ago and the result was plasticizer leeching out of the tubing and fogging.
Edit: here is the thread:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ht=plasticizer

Exactly your just reposting a thread instead of just digging.

Its the plastercizer dude. Those of us that dont use aftermarket coolants, and dont use dyes or additives of any kind dont have this problem.

Im using the same tubing ive used since the first build, and no clouding yet.

The trick is once u set it up, DONT DRAIN IT.

[Metric]

1.5 years and has yet to

B-44-4X Tygon tubing ftw

[NaeKuh]

1.5 years and has yet to

B-44-4X Tygon tubing ftw

blah.... FEHG!!!

your running the food and bervage tubing.

[railmeat]

Exactly your just reposting a thread instead of just digging.

Its the plastercizer dude. Those of us that dont use aftermarket coolants, and dont use dyes or additives of any kind dont have this problem.

Im using the same tubing ive used since the first build, and no clouding yet.

The trick is once u set it up, DONT DRAIN IT.

The trick is once u set it up, DONT DRAIN IT


hmm...really?why not,if theres floaties caused by errosion of copper blocks,rad debris with water ripping threw it and u wanna flush em out.they will and can appear.i imagined draining or sucking with a shop vac like i do(takes 15 seconds tops)is fine then refill it.the inside of tubing doesnt have time to dry.anyways..

naeku---what are you running liquid wise?

the engy from tygon just called me btw...he said tygon r3603 has a higher water asboration rate then tygon 2075 but..only good til 50c or so.so u must keep it cooler.eg:no quad priming hittin 80 etc..

he also said this sounds good- http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/feaqfaulpuwa.html with a drop or 2 of antibacterial drops from aquarium store.he said that sounds like a winner for running what were doing.WITH flushing every 6 months or less for optimal performance and degration prevention of inner walls crap buildup.

i was explained to completely reuse the tubing by getting haze out is to autoclave it(steamed water)then dry heat...

[NaeKuh]

The trick is once u set it up, DONT DRAIN IT


hmm...really?why not,if theres floaties caused by errosion of copper blocks,rad debris with water ripping threw it and u wanna flush em out.they will and can appear.i imagined draining or sucking with a shop vac like i do(takes 15 seconds tops)is fine then refill it.the inside of tubing doesnt have time to dry.anyways..

naeku---what are you running liquid wise?

the engy from tygon just called me btw...he said tygon r3603 has a higher water asboration rate then tygon 2075 but..only good til 50c or so.so u must keep it cooler.eg:no quad priming hittin 80 etc..

he also said this sounds good- http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/feaqfaulpuwa.html with a drop or 2 of antibacterial drops from aquarium store.

because when you drain, you then get additives to deposit along your walls which then accelerates it.

Dye, well you know what a dye is, and i find it suprising that you guys didnt think it wouldnt dye your tubing.

So if your the type to drain and fill more often, you really dont want any additives in it.

I only run straight distilled with silver inside.

[hotdun]

Exactly your just reposting a thread instead of just digging.

Its the plastercizer dude. Those of us that dont use aftermarket coolants, and dont use dyes or additives of any kind dont have this problem.

Im using the same tubing ive used since the first build, and no clouding yet.

The trick is once u set it up, DONT DRAIN IT.

If it's plastercizer, why would having coolants, dyes, additives even matter? Why would draining the loop or not draining it matter? This post makes no sense whatsoever....

[NaeKuh]

If it's plastercizer, why would having coolants, dyes, additives even matter. Why would draining or not matter. This post makes no sense whatsoever.

Read my explaination.

i said the additives will build up on your walls if you drain it, and then accelerate it.

[railmeat]

Read my explaination.

i said the additives will build up on your walls if you drain it, and then accelerate it.

how will additaves build up on your inner tubing walls if u FLUSH them out with a good 30min session looping fresh distalled water?


vs not flushing the old water u may have had threw a year or so with particle breakdown on components copper,alumin,slime,sludge,algae etc.. ..?

and your saying just plain distilled water no antibacterial drops?

[Metric]

blah.... FEHG!!!

your running the food and bervage tubing.

My R3606 clouded up on me in about 2 months, this has yet too. I'd love some insight on why you don't agree on my choice

[hotdun]

Read my explaination.

i said the additives will build up on your walls if you drain it, and then accelerate it.

Your statement is not based on any testing or fact.....just a guess I bet.

[railmeat]

My R3606 clouded up on me in about 2 months, this has yet too. I'd love some insight on why you don't agree on my choice

what fluid or u running(be specific)if u have mixed etc..your tubing is still like new?after 2 months...hmm


@hotdun...read post #12

@naekuh...do u have any pics of your setup?

[NaeKuh]

My R3606 clouded up on me in about 2 months, this has yet too. I'd love some insight on why you don't agree on my choice

No im saying im about to go on that tubing and use dyes to see if its really all that.

Your statement is not based on any testing or fact.....just a guess I bet.

ummm its based off my many years building.

how will additaves build up on your inner tubing walls if u FLUSH them out with a good 30min session looping fresh distalled water?

To most people a flush means drain and refill.

If you mean a complete flush, people have cleaned there tubing spot free with scrubbing bubbles, which also confirmed that it was a buildup on the tubing walls.

My Rig:


My Temps: (trust me i know what im doing when it comes to water)

[NaMcO]

Disassembled my tubing after about 1 year of use, it was almost like new. Always used FESER as cooling fluid (only). Had EK waterblocks on motherboard, AquaComputer on video card and Swiftech Apogee GTX for the CPU. Laing pump, XSPC reservoir and Black ICE radiators. Corrosion: zero.

[hotdun]

No im saying im about to go on that tubing and use dyes to see if its really all that.

ummm its based off my many years building.

I was referring to your statement that:
"Those of us that dont use aftermarket coolants, and dont use dyes or additives of any kind dont have this problem."

This is just an assumption you've made...that's all....not fact and is frankly untrue. Adding fuel to the fire, see the post above....

[NaeKuh]

I was referring to your statement that:
"Those of us that dont use aftermarket coolants, and dont use dyes or additives of any kind dont have this problem."

This is just an assumption you've made...that's all....not fact. Adding fuel to the fire, see the post above....

no not using any additives or dye extends the life of your tubing.

this is fact.

You trying to pick a fight with me?

Draining your system allows the buildup to deposit on your walls, which is why srubbing bubbles takes it all off and returns the tubing clear.

It really sounds like your trying to pick a fight with me expecially since i know you know all this from previous discussions.

[Tsaroth]

Cold enough in your house naek?

With a low of 19 degrees you're house must be 62ish degrees.

[Stealth42o]

I figured it out. I bought colored tubes.

/fixed

[NaeKuh]

Cold enough in your house naek?

With a low of 19 degrees you're house must be 62ish degrees.

Well the system was off, and i loaded realtemp on a cold boot, so yeah, the start temps was cold.

But you can see my idles around 20-21C. You know that last core is always colder.

My coolant to air delta is never more then 2-3C when i bench and take those pictures.

I figured it out. I bought colored tubes.

/fixed

FTMFW!!! which is why most people go this route after a while.

[Sadasius]

I am going to have to agree with NaeKuh on this. The less additives the better on tubing. It just stands to reason that less chemicals and additives = less wear and chemical reactions. I tried dye bombs and other additives only to result in clogged blocks, stained tubes etc. Sure it may not happen to absolutely everyone and that is what we need to find out....WHY? Why is it one guy has only distilled and gets algae and another does not? Why does one guy get foggy tubes and another does not?

[NaeKuh]

WHY? Why is it one guy has only distilled and gets algae and another does not? Why does one guy get foggy tubes and another does not?

i'll say this once again.

if you ever owned a fish tank...

this statement holds true.

ALGAE IS LIKE THE ROACH IT WILL GROW ANYWHERE AND EVERYWHERE!!
Which is why you need to keep it in check b4 you see it. If you see it and then try to keep it in check, its already too late.

[railmeat]

I am going to have to agree with NaeKuh on this. The less additives the better on tubing. It just stands to reason that less chemicals and additives = less wear and chemical reactions. I tried dye bombs and other additives only to result in clogged blocks, stained tubes etc. Sure it may not happen to absolutely everyone and that is what we need to find out....WHY? Why is it one guy has only distilled and gets algae and another does not? Why does one guy get foggy tubes and another does not?

"I am going to have to agree with NaeKuh on this. The less additives the better on tubing. It just stands to reason that less chemicals and additives = less wear and chemical reactions."

so true.less is more.


@naekuh...REALLY nice rig man!.do u have alink to that intel proggie u were burning in with?


check this out guys- Feser One & Feser Aqua Non-Conductive Coolants

THE pure water

"Feser Aqua is bi-distilled water and is specially designed for today's PC liquid cooling market.If you are seeking a pure, non conductive coolant with no dye pigments to corrupt the solution, then this is a 100% what you have been looking for!!Feser Aqua was filtered through 2 different processes of distillation, hence the term "bi-distilled". First the fluid passes through the reverse osmosis system, shortly after it runs into the down streamed de-ionized system. The PH-Value is 2.0 ~ 3.0 and lies in the acidic PH-range. "


http://reviews.pcapex.com/cooling/fe...a_coolants.php


decent read..
http://74.125.47.132/search?q=cache:...lnk&cd=5&gl=us