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Thread: Proper installation of radiator.

  1. #1
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    Proper installation of radiator.

    I've been doing as much research as I can on water cooling installation but wanted to clear a few things up.

    Someone on another forum kept bringing up "Leak proofing the rad" by some means of an extra substance or whatnot. As far as I know installation is.

    Identify the mounting area, prepare it.
    Take care to not harm the radiator by breaking, bending the fins or by screwing in to far and cracking it.
    Hang or mount the fans in proper orientation and install.
    If the barbs are installed connect the tube, clamp it, finish the rest of the cooling elements installations then fill her up.

    I plan on setting the full loop up in the case with the hardware. Measure and cut all the tubes to the right size etc.
    At this point would it be better to remove the loop, set it up on the desk and test it or to fill it up in the case and use a separate power supply to leak test with no hardware getting power?
    If I test it out of the case that would require I bleed the system out reinstall then refill would it not?

    Any input would be well appreciated.

    Oh lastly.
    I picked the Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655 Inline 12V DC Pump.
    Would any of you pick otherwise?
    Thanks for any input.
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  2. #2
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    Sounds like you have got the hang of it.
    The D5 is a great pump - use one myself on setting 3. No more performance to be had by turning it up higher and it makes less heat spinning slower, should last a little longer to hopefully.
    You can leak test in case - i did, just put paper towels around connections, this will show up any leaks quickly. Just take your time and make sure everything is clamped and well setup before going live, best of luck and have a blast.

  3. #3
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    You can test using the single psu, by taking a paperclip and shorting the green wire on the psu 24 pin connector to any of the black wires on that same connector. Another cheap option is THIS connector which simply plugs into your psu. A second psu is not necessary.

    All you have to do is unplug everything from the psu except for the pump, and power up after doing the short, or that bypass, and leak test the system.

    Another tip is to try to make sure you have no twists in your tubing while installing it. Twisting can lead to easier kinking and problems.

    I also see no problem with leak testing inside the case, as long as you take the proper precautions, as Fragger already suggested.

    +1 on the D5. It is a good pump that should last.
    Quote Originally Posted by armeniandave View Post
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    Understatement of the year!!!!

  4. #4
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    FWIW, testing outside the case ssems a bit odd to me. It's possible to cause a leak while installing it into the case/system. I suggest testing inside the case with the precautions mentioned above. Once it test 'good', you just plug in power cables and go with little to fear from a leak since you didn't move anything H2O related.
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  5. #5
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    Block.

    Quick question out of any CPU waterblock (755/1366) which would you say is the best to cool an i7 at 4ghz.

    Bloodrage can mount 755 and 1366 cooling hardware.

    I was looking at the D-TEK FuZion v2.
    i7-920 @ 4.0ghz/1600mhz,
    Quantum Force Bloodrage, DominatorDD3,
    Velociraptor, gtx460-sli, 2tb W.D., Corsair HX1000w,
    CM:Scout

    http://soundcloud.com/kiyka/

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