Originally Posted by
x-built-Stan
Raa,
Here is list of things that you can try. I do not have a picture of your rig, so I'll have to make some assumptions.
I've got a picture of my rig in the first post i submitted.
1) Verify that you have no shorts from the motherboard to case. Everyone thinks it can't happen to them, but it often does. Yes, you can actually short the board without frying it - IEEE gotta love the standards. The result can be a temporary, or permanent, partially functioning board.
The first time i installed the motherboard in my case it didn't short, small chance there's any short the second time i install it the exact same way?
A) If you are using an after market CPU cooler or water block: Did it come with a cross strap (usually and X or H shape) that mounts to the underside of the motherboard? If yes, than check it to ensure that it is not shorting to the board. Make sure that all the electrical isolators were installed properly.
Yes, but the cross strap is made of plastic. And the surface is smooth underneath it.
B) The motherboard may be shorting to the case. To test this remove the motherboard from the case and place on a non-conductive surface. Connect everything as listed next.
Basic Connections for testing:
Connect one Video card (in the PCI-E slot closest to the CPU), two sticks of ram (in the slots closest to the CPU), and one hard drive. Ensure that the power supply us off and connect power supply to the motherboard. Connect the case speaker to the motherboard. The speaker is needed to listen for any "Beep" codes during post. Do not worry about the power switch, HDD light, etc they are not important. You do not need to connect a keyboard, mouse, or monitor at this time either.
Done.
In the lower right hand corner of the motherboard there are 2 switches and 3 LEDs. The switches (red push button) are the CMOS reset (top) and the power switch (bottom). Below the power switch are three LEDs. The red HDD (top), the blue power indicator (middle), and the red power standby (bottom).
1) Turn on the power supply. You should see the red standby led come on.
If this does not happen:
Works like a charm.
A) Check that the power supply is plugged in and functioning, typically you will hear the fan running. If you think that the power supply may be faulty, use a power supply tester to verify that it is working properly.
B) Check that all power supply connections to the motherboard are properly seated for the 24 pin and 8 pin connectors.
C) If A and B do not help, you probably have a dead board.
2) Start the computer by pressing the power switch on the motherboard. The blue power led (above the standby led) should come on. Additionally, you should see a blue led adjacent to the video card come on, indicating that the video card is getting power. A green led will also light up at the bottom of the RAM indicating that the RAM is getting power. Finally, as the system begins to post the red HDD led above the blue power indicator should start flashing signaling HDD reads.
A) If the ram or video card LEDs do not come. Turn off computer at the power supply and unplug it. Re-seat the component and start the computer again. From your previous post it is doubtful that these components are bad so I won't go into that.
The Ram and Video LEDs light up as they should
B) Beep codes: When the system posts you will hear one long beep. This is normal and means that all tests passed. Below is a complete list of codes, if you hear anything other than the one long beep.
PROBLEM, there's no beep from the internal speaker!
1 short DRAM refresh failure The programmable interrupt timer or programmable interrupt controller has probably failed
2 short Memory parity error A memory parity error has occurred in the first 64K of RAM. The RAM IC is probably bad
3 short Base 64K memory failure A memory failure has occurred in the first 64K of RAM. The RAM IC is probably bad
4 short System timer failure The system clock/timer IC has failed or there is a memory error in the first bank of memory
5 short Processor error The system CPU has failed
6 short Gate A20 failure The keyboard controller IC has failed, which is not allowing Gate A20 to switch the processor to protected mode. Replace the keyboard controller
7 short Virtual mode processor exception error The CPU has generated an exception error because of a fault in the CPU or motherboard circuitry
8 short Display memory read/write error The system video adapter is missing or defective
9 short ROM checksum error The contents of the system BIOS ROM does not match the expected checksum value. The BIOS ROM is probably defective and should be replaced
10 short CMOS shutdown register read/write error The shutdown for the CMOS has failed
11 short Cache error The L2 cache is faulty
1 long, 2 short Failure in video system An error was encountered in the video BIOS ROM, or a horizontal retrace failure has been encountered
1 long, 3 short Memory test failure A fault has been detected in memory above 64KB
1 long, 8 short Display test failure The video adapter is either missing or defective
2 short POST Failure One of the hardware tests has failed
1 long POST has passed all tests
Let us know how it goes. If the above does not yield results, you might want to RMA the board again.
UPDATE:
A buddy just finished troubleshooting his board. He made it all the way to the POST; all LEDS active, HDD access, but no video on the monitor. Turned out that his DVI circuit on the monitor was dead. I had never heard of that one before. However, it is easy to troubleshoot. When troubleshooting a "no video" situation, always use only one video card in the computer.
1) Verify the cable is solidly connected to the video card and the monitor. Sometime a loose connection is the culprit.
2) If you have a second monitor, use it, most plasma and LED TVs have a DVI input. Otherwise try to use a second DVI connector on the monitor.
A) If that does not work, it may be the cable. Use the S-Video cable that came with the board and connect it to the the monitor.
I've tried an LCD-DVI solution as well as a CRT-VGA.
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