Project: My MM Work Log

[masxerofkartis]

That case IS HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And it also looks very nice Well done mate

[Pellepel]

btw what size are those Koolance compression fittings?

[Utnorris]

btw what size are those Koolance compression fittings?

They are made for 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD tubing. Model NZL-V10KG for the straight fittings and NZL-L10KG for the 90's. They are really good, although I wish they were more of a shiny silver like the BP's.

[CyberDruid]

Nice idea on the QD drains. I wonder if there is some way to plumb a loop with a pair of those to sort of "charge" the loop with fluid top to bottom or side to side or something.

[Utnorris]

Never thought of that, but I am sure you could with a long piece of tubing since the quick disconnect closes when disconnected.

[ward0]

can you put a link here utnorris about that drain fitting? I don't seem to find it on the koolance website...

[0xdeadbeef]

Koolance Quick Disconnects: http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...hp?cPath=62_60

Koolance @ PPC: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...acc688c1ed4c31

[ward0]

Koolance Quick Disconnects: http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...hp?cPath=62_60

Koolance @ PPC: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...acc688c1ed4c31

thanks for the reply, looking forward how Utnorris will do this.

just payed for my MM case today, should have it by the end of next week

[Utnorris]

This is exactly what I got in conjunction with DD delrin T's

1 x Koolance QDC (Low Profile) Shutoff Nozzle, Female Compression [10mm, 3/8"] $7.99
3 x Koolance QDC (Low Profile) Shutoff Nozzle, Male Threaded G 1/4 $17.97

I would recommend the BP or other metal barb T instead of the DD T. Also, the Koolance SPL-XUFY5B is a brass nozzle body that will work. My delrin/acetal T's had pieces loose or not completely sut out, so the metal probably would be better. The other thing is to get the right angle quick disconnect, VL2-F10L which helps getting into tight spots.

[Utnorris]

More pics:

[Utnorris]

And more pics;

[Utnorris]

Even more pics:

[Utnorris]

Oh no, not more pics:

[Utnorris]

Almost done:

[Utnorris]

And finally the last one. I am still going to change a couple of things, mainly add a couple fans up front to blow air across the MB, but for the most part the rebuild is done.

[BlueAqua]

Looks great Utnorris. I like the use of the same fittings all around.

Do you have anymore detailed images of how you mounted your D5 with Ek top? I see you used a UN bracket. Did you have to drill out new holes to fit the Ek block?

Do you plan on installing any fans in the front?

[Utnorris]

Looks great Utnorris. I like the use of the same fittings all around.

Do you have anymore detailed images of how you mounted your D5 with Ek top? I see you used a UN bracket. Did you have to drill out new holes to fit the Ek block?

The EK top went right on like a glove, however the holes do not line up with the UN bracket and therefore I had to use just one hole. I cranked it down and it will not move. I could have just drilled another hole, but I didn't want to mess up the paint. As far as mounted to the case, double sidded sticky tape, ghetto? Yes. Effective? Yes. Can it be seen? If you look for it.

Do you plan on installing any fans in the front?

I am debating this. The original plan was not to have any fans, but if I do that I will not have enough airflow to cool the heatsinks on the GPU's. I am debating on whether or not to do fans or just get the XSPC FC blocks for the HD4850's. I was hoping that Swiftech would put out a solution like they did for the HD4870, but they do not plan too and at the price they are charging I wouldn't get it anyway. Maybe if they sold it separate from the waterblock (which is what it was supposed to be) and it was less than a MCW60 I would go that route since I already have the MCW60's.

[Utnorris]

Looks great Utnorris. I like the use of the same fittings all around.

Thank you.

I did the same with the screws. Replaced all of them with black oxide screws for uniformity and so they would not stick out like the silver ones do.

[ward0]

nice work , utnorris and i'm first to say gratz yay!!

[Dangals]

Nice work Utnorris - looks good

Need to fill up the Micro-Res though

[Utnorris]

Nice work Utnorris - looks good

Need to fill up the Micro-Res though

Trying to get the air out of it currently, stupid res just keeps recycling the air, . I am going to unmount it tonight and get as much of the air out as I can.

[Dangals]

Trying to get the air out of it currently, stupid res just keeps recycling the air, . I am going to unmount it tonight and get as much of the air out as I can.

Yeah I found that as well when I was trying to bleed this res in the Cosmos S build I did - when the res was half full it would continually cycle the air through the loop. I then filled the almost to the very top and it bled nearly straight away after that. Give that a go as you shouldnt have to unmount it.

[mstrmold]

Good job UTnorris on your pedestal addition. That machine looks enormous!

[Utnorris]

Yeah I found that as well when I was trying to bleed this res in the Cosmos S build I did - when the res was half full it would continually cycle the air through the loop. I then filled the almost to the very top and it bled nearly straight away after that. Give that a go as you shouldnt have to unmount it.

You were exactly right. I unmounted the res, got the initial air out of the loop, then filled it up almost to the top. From there I just kept cycling it until I had about 99% of the air out. The remaining bit is lowly coming out by itself.

Good job UTnorris on your pedestal addition. That machine looks enormous!

Thanks. Yeah it is big. 27" tall, won't fit under my desk anymore, . I guess I need a new desk.