Feser Attack

[cian1500ww]

Yeah it's like within 2 degrees of water, and looks great under UV. As for how it performs stacked up against other coolants, it is definitely not worth $30 a bottle. Distilled will always be the cheapest, yet still effective, coolant. After all, it is called watercooling. As for me, the real question isn't in any performance gain you could possibly get from it, but about who and why you are buying it. It could be amazing and well worth $30, but can it seriously compensate Feser? I think not.

Actually distilled water is dearer for me to buy
I suppose the difference between coolants is very minimal, heck they're probably all made in the same factory

[BreeSpree]

Actually distilled water is dearer for me to buy
I suppose the difference between coolants is very minimal, heck they're probably all made in the same factory

You could probably make the same thing with distilled water and car antifreeze anyway. What you are really paying for is a name, and for it to be shipped from a different country. And the difference will always be minimal. If you read the nanofluid review, that even showed only ~2 degrees headway over water.

[SNiiPE_DoGG]

Yeah it's like within 2 degrees of water, and looks great under UV. As for how it performs stacked up against other coolants, it is definitely not worth $30 a bottle. Distilled will always be the cheapest, yet still effective, coolant. After all, it is called watercooling. As for me, the real question isn't in any performance gain you could possibly get from it, but about who and why you are buying it. It could be amazing and well worth $30, but can it seriously compensate Feser? I think not.

its only $19.95 a liter not $30

and if you are making a showcase build then I see it as a must have. the only water-dye combo I have ever gotten to work is green. It works great but it sure aint blue or orange lol

[BreeSpree]

its only $19.95 a liter not $30

and if you are making a showcase build then I see it as a must have. the only water-dye combo I have ever gotten to work is green. It works great but it sure aint blue or orange lol

I was trying to predict the total cost, water is actually pretty heavy to ship. Like $7-10. Well you could use HydrX for a UV green, which I also find easiest. There are always other options though, such as pentosin. There are also other types of bottled coolants that should work in a showcase build, such as D-Tek Tonic, for example, FluidXP+...ew, and Primochill PC-ICE...double ew.

[bentleya]

I have never said the FESER radiators don't perform, rather I question how flimsy the FESER triple radiator was in my hands after I removed it from it's box at MicroCenter. I was able to squeeze in the sides of the FESEE radiator. I own (6)ThermoChill PA120.3 radiators and it would take the Incredible Hulk to squeeze in the sides of these tough as nails radiators.

well thats british engineering over the german engineering, still dont believe some yanks still think TC is american

[Xavior]

I have never said the FESER radiators don't perform, rather I question how flimsy the FESER triple radiator was in my hands after I removed it from it's box at MicroCenter. I was able to squeeze in the sides of the FESEE radiator. I own (6)ThermoChill PA120.3 radiators and it would take the Incredible Hulk to squeeze in the sides of these tough as nails radiators.

So what exactly do you do to your radiators? Beat them up with some baseball bats?

I don't think Feser's radiators are crap quality. For sure, it depends on how you treat them and they might damage more easily, but less material used doesn't necessarily equal crap.

[Bobly]

Fanboy or not, you have to accept that the Feser One pre-mixed cooling liquid is a good product.

I would like to specify what I meant for those who didn't get the reference:

When it comes to water cooling liquid, you can't beat plain distilled water with a biocide (PT Nuke for example), however if you want the UV look, water + dye tends to eventually clog up blocks, Feser One pre mixed solution tends to lead to less problems.

Performance + Ease of use = Distilled Water
UV - Feser One ^^

[.Logic]

So what exactly do you do to your radiators? Beat them up with some baseball bats?

I don't think Feser's radiators are crap quality. For sure, it depends on how you treat them and they might damage more easily, but less material used doesn't necessarily equal crap.

Remember this.

- COPPER is SOFTER than BRASS
- TC use BRASS for the end tanks and tubes and COPPER for the fins
- Feser use COPPER for the entire rad


I still prefer TC, they just need a 120.4.

[coolmiester]

Maybe any new radiator testing should take crash testing into account

I remember when the rigidity of race cars was thought to be paramount for driver safety back in the day but these days they go for the more flexible lighter, safer materials.

Lets face it, most computers don't have 200mph crashes so i think we're safe there

[hellcamino]

People finding these radiators to be flimsy makes me curious, to be sure a thermochill you can about park a truck on without damage but I found quality to be quite good in the fesers and fit/finish first in class. Cooling capability is theoretically almost identical with the feser being slightly smaller, with standard fan spacing, fitting type and pre-threaded holes. I noted a small drop in temps going from TC to feser. Personally I never attempted any abuse test on the fesers but they seemed robust enough to cool a pc for sure and far more robust than a typical heater core.

[Martinm210]

I own (6)ThermoChill PA120.3 radiators

Really, I want PICS!!!

Just kidding..

I'm bolting and hanging my TFC480 with just four screws on the bottom two rad holes:



Sure if you press in the sides of the radiator it might flex, but I haven't been able to see any real world application issues to come of that. When our bridge engineers design a bridge, we put camber into it because the weight of the bridge will cause it to flex downward. Does that make the bridge a bad design?

Materials yield and that's fine as long as it's not beyond the permanent deformation yield point. If I can hang a TFC480 from four screws only, it sure as heck is strong enough if mounted properly with all 16.

The only durability issues I've really seen with any radiator has nothing to do with the metal construction. The PAINT is however another story and the PA is no better than black primer IMO.

I think I'm going to run my TFC480 and PA120.3 together for cooling my CPU, they are both nice low restriction rads.

AND THOSE ARE THE FACTS!!!

[hellcamino]

@R, what fan spacing did you order your MM case with btw?

[NaeKuh]

Martin unblock your PM's Dammit.

I need to show you some prototype stuff.

Trust me your gonna f'n love it because i just spanked another block maker who said it was impossible to do it this way.

[.Logic]

@R, what fan spacing did you order your MM case with btw?

I'm fairly certain that all his fan spacing is compatible with TC rads (i.e. 30mm fan spacing). I wouldn't imagine RRR would make the mistake of ordering with standard fan spacing, especially since he has 6 PA120.3s to go into it

[hellcamino]

I'm fairly certain that all his fan spacing is compatible with TC rads (i.e. 30mm fan spacing). I wouldn't imagine RRR would make the mistake of ordering with standard fan spacing, especially since he has 6 PA120.3s to go into it

As am I...Makes sense to use TC rads then as opposed to rebuying half of the most expensive parts of your system...right?

[.Logic]

As am I...Makes sense to use TC rads then as opposed to rebuying half of the most expensive parts of your system...right?

Hehe, you got that right

[Utnorris]

Yes it is TC spacing.

As far as the "Great Rad Debate", no one can claim the price/performance crown that Switech Rads have. I have PA120.3 and a PA120.1, both solid construction no doubt, but if R3 hadn't given me the sweet deal on the PA120.3 and I hadn't picked up the PA120.1 from Microcenter for $50, I wouldn't have gotten either. TC and TFC are both out of my price range for something a MCR320 or MCR220 will do at a third the cost. I will say this though, TC's and I assume TFC's rads are the same with this, they hold their value unlike Swiftech or HWLabs rads. You will rarely see a PA120.3 used selling for less than a $100, whereas you can almost always find a MCR320 used for $30-$40. It's like anything else, you get what you pay for............well, except for Swiftech, they are definitely the value king.

[IanY]

RRR is switching all his rads to Feser, Swiftech and Black Ice

Hey RRR, when are you getting rid of the BOP fittings and switching over to Koolance? :

[IanY]

Yes it is TC spacing.

As far as the "Great Rad Debate", no one can claim the price/performance crown that Switech Rads have. I have PA120.3 and a PA120.1, both solid construction no doubt, but if R3 hadn't given me the sweet deal on the PA120.3 and I hadn't picked up the PA120.1 from Microcenter for $50, I wouldn't have gotten either. TC and TFC are both out of my price range for something a MCR320 or MCR220 will do at a third the cost. I will say this though, TC's and I assume TFC's rads are the same with this, they hold their value unlike Swiftech or HWLabs rads. You will rarely see a PA120.3 used selling for less than a $100, whereas you can almost always find a MCR320 used for $30-$40. It's like anything else, you get what you pay for............well, except for Swiftech, they are definitely the value king.

Just wait till they come out and I go to Triple-SLI-Swiftech roflmao and it'll still cost less than TC or Feser!

[2low4u]

I am in shock that this question was even asked... I made sure that BEN gave me Swiftech spacing for all panels...

LOL

[.Logic]

RRR is switching all his rads to Feser, Swiftech and Black Ice

Hey RRR, when are you getting rid of the BOP fittings and switching over to Koolance? :

He told me he was expecting some of Koolance's steel plugs later in the week

[IanY]

Use filtered sea water as coolant !!! Goes very well with the Koolance end plugs :

[Kayin]

Simply because the rads are designed differently.

If you take the same radiator design, same thickness and dimension, and make one of brass and one of copper, the copper one will be much more easily damages, while theoretically has a higher ability to dissipate heat.

While not supporting TFC (I've bought mostly Swiftech rads myself) I must say that if you make it the same but change that one thing, it will be softer and more prone to flexing. Comes down to material choice. Could be a case where copper is detrimental.

[fox3]

They look so ... small.

I'll stick with the TFC 480's

[.Logic]

Use filtered sea water as coolant !!! Goes very well with the Koolance end plugs :

Blasphemy!...


...I can't believe you suggested FILTERING the sea water Unfiltered is the only way to go, the slime on the seaweed acts as a lubricant for the pump don't you know!?