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Thread: [Project] YAMMS

  1. #76
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    Great shots...colored tubing and uv reactive fluid make for great UV shots.

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by dho View Post
    Running out of time in the day, so let's get this going. No exterior pics - will have to wait until tomorrow. Here are the interior ones

    I see that you are using the same SB heatsink that I am. What temperatures are you getting with it? I put a fan near it, because it was reading about 75c-80c in Everest. How is yours fairing?

    BTW, looks AWESOME! Your build is like my builds' hotter, older sister.
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  3. #78
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    MDPC.. do they pay the featured PC's owner a million dollars?

    No MM system has won MDPC before ?!? What is that, a Lian Li only club?
    Last edited by IanY; 08-11-2008 at 07:44 AM.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanY View Post
    MDPC.. do they pay the featured PC's owner a million dollars?

    No MM system has won MDPC before ?!? What is that, a Lian Li only club?
    I wish mate!!!

    And no No MM on mdpc but this can be the 1st!!

    Lian Li fanclub atm...
    Quote Originally Posted by skinnee View Post
    No, I think he had a date tonight...

    He and his EK Supreme are out for a night on the town!

  5. #80
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    Aye this might the first woot!
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  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Razor_Blade
    I see that you are using the same SB heatsink that I am. What temperatures are you getting with it? I put a fan near it, because it was reading about 75c-80c in Everest. How is yours fairing?
    It stinks! I'm picking up an Enzotech SLF-1 tomorrow to put this issue to bed. I have enough flow from that 5.25" bay fan to keep it <60 (), but you take that away and temps just keep climbing. Stick a scythe s-flex on there and it drops to 45. That's not exactly a permanent solution though.. What did you end up doing? I'll have to go check your build thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by twwen2
    Just loverly Is the tubing clear or UV reactive as well?
    Thanks! It's Feser UV tubing + Feser UV fluid. The green is the regular green, not acid.

  7. #82
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    Thanks for all the positive feedback, everyone. I really appreciate it! The UV gear really isn't my style at all - I'll probably turn it off before too long - but that's kind of the point. The main reason I like liquid and building in general is the challenge of doing something new and different (for me) every time.

    Here are a few more pics. I'm honestly not sure what else to take pictures of, so if you'd like to see something, feel free to ask.

    I'm going to write a quick summary post of some things that stood out to me on this build (few words about the mm case, some of the places I ordered from, etc), in case anyone looking for opinions digs this thread up in a search someday. Then that's probably it. It's been a fun few weeks and thanks again for the input. Feel free to post or PM me any time!






  8. #83
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    Nicely done. I really like the blue and green theme. The UV effect is a bit strong in some pics but really nice in others.

    One question: Did you use the standard MM bolts to attatch the side panels to the case? Those look more low-profile compared to others i have seen.

  9. #84
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    Nice work!!

    Looking gooD!


    My WaterCooling project [Cosmos S ''Black Edition'']

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by dho View Post
    It stinks! I'm picking up an Enzotech SLF-1 tomorrow to put this issue to bed. I have enough flow from that 5.25" bay fan to keep it <60 (), but you take that away and temps just keep climbing. Stick a scythe s-flex on there and it drops to 45. That's not exactly a permanent solution though.. What did you end up doing? I'll have to go check your build thread.
    My sentiments exactly. I have a damn fan pointed at it. It looks awful. I am probably going to replace the NB block with one of the all in one Bitspower blocks, when they come out. That or do the SLF-1, but I doubt that it could keep the temps under control. One thing worth mentioning is that the temperature sensor is not on die for the SB. I believe it is on the wafer surrounding it. If you did what I did, you probably cleaned away all of the thermal paste from the stock mounting. I believe that is why the thermal sensor is going crazy. Not to mention, the stock cooling isn't active for the SB, why should mine be? Ah well, I digress. I just want it to be cooler without being ugly.
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  11. #86
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    looks great man!!

    try a black bed sheet for a background that would turn out nice

    also try these tips...

    Last edited by disruptfam; 08-12-2008 at 07:20 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by skinnee View Post
    No, I think he had a date tonight...

    He and his EK Supreme are out for a night on the town!

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by twwen2
    One question: Did you use the standard MM bolts to attatch the side panels to the case? Those look more low-profile compared to others i have seen.
    I used 1/4" low head black oxdie cap screws from mcmasters.

    Code:
    Line	Qty	Part Number	Unit Price	Description
    2 	4 Packs	92220A141 	$8.31		Alloy Steel Low Head Socket Cap Screw 6-32 Thread, 1/4" Length, Packs of 25
    Otherwise the case sort of looks like Hellraiser's Pinhead

    Quote Originally Posted by Razor_Blade
    That or do the SLF-1, but I doubt that it could keep the temps under control. One thing worth mentioning is that the temperature sensor is not on die for the SB. I believe it is on the wafer surrounding it. If you did what I did, you probably cleaned away all of the thermal paste from the stock mounting. I believe that is why the thermal sensor is going crazy.
    That's good info. I'll let you know how the SLF-1 turns out - hopefully it does the trick. You're right about the paste, it was caked-on all around the chip and I took it all off. Maybe I'll cut a thermal pad around the die to get better contact from the sensor to the sink too.

    Quote Originally Posted by disruptfam
    try a black bed sheet for a background that would turn out nice

    also try these tips... {snip}
    I'll see what I can do with a black bed sheet. I'm out of town for the next couple of days, but I'll give it a shot this weekend.

    As for the tips, that helps, but I think I'm reaching the limit of my abilities or the camera. Maybe it's time for a new one. Currently (and probably embarrassingly), I'm using a tiny point-and-shoot Canon Powershot SD600 digital elph. Yeah, I really need to upgrade.

  13. #88
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    the pics are quite good tbh.. Just the backround and lighting need a lil work besides that your good mate
    Quote Originally Posted by skinnee View Post
    No, I think he had a date tonight...

    He and his EK Supreme are out for a night on the town!

  14. #89
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    Wow this turned out to be absolutely stunning! Congrats..

  15. #90
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    I'm digging those bay reservoirs. Are they the danger den ones?

  16. #91
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    Any update on a SB cooling solution? I have 2 active coolers here and I don't know which one I want to use. Did the active Enzotech one work for you?
    EVGA Classified 759|Lian Li A20B|i7 920 at 4.0GHz 1.29V|HIS 5970 2GB|12GB Mushkin PC12800 |6 Raid 6 WD RE-3 250's, Adaptec 5805 SAS Controller| Megahelms + Panaflow Low speed

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by razor_blade
    Any update on a SB cooling solution? I have 2 active coolers here and I don't know which one I want to use. Did the active Enzotech one work for you?
    Yep, worked out great. SB runs at 45 degrees now 24/7. I tried the mount with and without thermal pads (not on the die, but around) and it made no difference. So there you go!

    Quote Originally Posted by cobra_kai
    I'm digging those bay reservoirs. Are they the danger den ones?
    They're actually XSPC bay reservoirs. I have the DD one in one of my other builds though. The XSPC ones are much better - not as deep (which is important in the MM case) and better water channels. To expand on the second point a little more, the XSPC res has a nice cutout over the outlet that protects against air getting into it unless the res is at extremely low water levels. It does a similar trick with the inlet and fill port to prevent turbulence. The acrylic also seems to be a lot thicker on the XSPC res, which is nice if you're going to throw it around the room. Ok, I have no idea why it's thicker, but I suppose you could say it's more resistant to cracking - although I've never had that problem.

  18. #93
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    dho, would you mind linking me to where to buy those koolance drains?

    Thanks!

  19. #94
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    Sure thing, I picked them up here. VLV-10TSPL - nickel-plated brass.

  20. #95
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    Thanks, I appreciate it. Just wish it weren't 15 bucks for the 1/2" version though.

    ;(

  21. #96
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    That drain valve is extremely elegant. My problem with it is how to stuff a bucket under it to collect the water without spilling anything (as opposed to a QD and a long tube leading out of the case).

  22. #97
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    Not sure if you've already written this. But what size of compression fittings are those?

  23. #98
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    Thanks for the info about the SB, I will try on the EVGA solution first, then the Enzotech. Just for my own information, what voltage are you using on the SB?
    EVGA Classified 759|Lian Li A20B|i7 920 at 4.0GHz 1.29V|HIS 5970 2GB|12GB Mushkin PC12800 |6 Raid 6 WD RE-3 250's, Adaptec 5805 SAS Controller| Megahelms + Panaflow Low speed

  24. #99
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    Awesome job on the build dho!

    Your photos are great, I especially like the night shots.

  25. #100
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    What size tubing?
    • Case : Silverstone TJ07 Black
    • Sound : Asus Xonar Essence STX
    • Video : Asus GTX 680 4gb w/ Ek Nickel Block
    • Board : ASUS Maximus V Formula Z77
    • CPU : Core i5-3570K @ 4.5 Ghz
    • CPU Cooler : EK-Supreme HF w/Plexi Top
    • Memory : 16GB Samsung 2133mhz 10-9-10-29
    • PSU: Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w
    • HDD : Crucial 250gb M4 Raid 0
    • Radiator : Thermochill PA 120.3
    • Reservoir : EK-Multioption Res 250 Rev.2
    • Water Pump : Laing DDC-3.2 w/XSPC Top

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