"ASUS P5Q Deluxe discussion".

[Cloud76]

Oh greeaaaat good to hear. OCZ has been great to me for RMAs, especially because I live close to the Canadian head office. I bought the PSU almost two years ago tho so I don't know if it will still be under warranty. Right now the system is booting up fine, instead of plugging the 4-pin burnt connector I am using the other 4-pin connector into the spot originally covered by the black plug. Once I get a new board and PSU I will for sure plug all 8 in. In the meantime I'm dialing down my Q6600 overclock from 8x444 to 9x333!

What?
Do you mean that the fried mobo is still working using the other 4pin that was covered?

[PortCitySlim]

What?
Do you mean that the fried mobo is still working using the other 4pin that was covered?

My thoughts exactly! These things must me tough motherfers


BTW, guys I need to know which setting helps more with RAM, the PL or the Twister...for example. I have had my ram at PL8/Strong and would like to know which setting would boost performance more PL7/Light, Lightest or PL8/Strongest?

[NBF]

My thoughts exactly! These things must me tough motherfers


BTW, guys I need to know which setting helps more with RAM, the PL or the Twister...for example. I have had my ram at PL8/Strong and would like to know which setting would boost performance more PL7/Light, Lightest or PL8/Strongest?

I guess it depends on the rest of the system, it's a good test to do

Best setting stable for 425fsb I could find for my system is PL7/Light/Pull-ins disabled with 1066 RAM.

[PortCitySlim]

I guess it depends on the rest of the system, it's a good test to do

Best setting stable for 425fsb I could find for my system is PL7/Light/Pull-ins disabled with 1066 RAM.

That is where I think I am at on my 1100 ram(1133mhz) but I am also running it with SRC enabled and MemOC Charger eabled, although I have not tested PL7/light yet. PL7/moderate almost passed a 2 hour OCCT ram test. I was going to either test PL8/Strongest or PL7/light next, I still have a bit of juice left to spare on my kit so if I needed to jack up the voltage a bit to get stable I could. I have no software to test how well my RAM is performing so I have no idea how much better my system is running everytime I lower the PL or increase the twister, would be nice if one of you expert guys could go into detail on what exactly each setting is doing and how they work with each other.

[jVIDIA]

Was the 1103 bios removed from Asus site ? Is it true ?

edit: forget it ... it is still there

[Seanie's Show]

What?
Do you mean that the fried mobo is still working using the other 4pin that was covered?

My thoughts too, I didnt think it worked using just the 4 pins that are covered, I thought you could only use the 4 open pins or 8 pin, but thats my next query, if you had the 8 pins available then why did you only use the 4 pin power connector to start with instead of all 8 ?

[wongnog]

What? Do you mean that the fried mobo is still working using the other 4pin that was covered?

yes to my exact surprise that is what is happening! I have a picture of the CPU1 4 pin connector from my PSU, you can clearly see where it's fried the mobo. So I used the other CPU2 4 pin connector and plugged it in to the 4 pin part of the mobo that was covered. Needless to say once I get my new psu and mobo I will plug BOTH 4 pin connectors in!!!

My thoughts too, I didnt think it worked using just the 4 pins that are covered, I thought you could only use the 4 open pins or 8 pin, but thats my next query, if you had the 8 pins available then why did you only use the 4 pin power connector to start with instead of all 8 ?

I honestly didn't know that's what I was supposed to do, because my old board only had a 4 pin cpu connector on it. I thought that 4 of the 8 pins were closed for a reason, and I thought my PSU's 2x4-pin CPU plugs were meant for 2 physical CPUs. I should have known better since I have a quad core but I guess I didn't do enough research/reading before building my new system.

[Seanie's Show]

yes to my exact surprise that is what is happening! I have a picture of the CPU1 4 pin connector from my PSU, you can clearly see where it's fried the mobo. So I used the other CPU2 4 pin connector and plugged it in to the 4 pin part of the mobo that was covered. Needless to say once I get my new psu and mobo I will plug BOTH 4 pin connectors in!!!


I honestly didn't know that's what I was supposed to do, because my old board only had a 4 pin cpu connector on it. I thought that 4 of the 8 pins were closed for a reason, and I thought my PSU's 2x4-pin CPU plugs were meant for 2 physical CPUs. I should have known better since I have a quad core but I guess I didn't do enough research/reading before building my new system.

Never mind mate, now you know, glad your board is still working, hopefully with a bit of luck all you have blown is the rail on the PSU and not damaged the board, do you have another PSU you can try on it to see if that burnt 4 pin plug on the board is still working ?, im a bit worried for you that whoever you brought it from wont RMA it for you, the 2 reasons behing this is: 1 dont you have a beta bios on it, beats void the warranty and 2: the board damage wasnt caused by the board itself, it was caused by a 3rd party device, and this is clearly visible from the burn marks, but you can but ask.

I think 600w PSU maybe a little bit to low also for your system, especially with this board and a Quad, along with your memory etc dont forget that the Q6600 draws 95w from you PSU, before any overclocking, and with overclocking can draw as much as 175w alone, plus what the board, board features like onboard sound, RAID etc, Mem, Harddrives, GFX card, CD/DVD drives etc are pulling out of it, if you are constantly exceeding this 600w that your PSU supplies this could lead to the death of the PSU and as it dies it gives one last massive surge of power, KBOOM, burn marks appear.

There is a PSU calculator here, which will give you a rough idea of the wattage of PSU you should look into getting, to be safe I would recommend getting something slightly higher than what it recommends, just to compensate as it a little out of date, especially with higher drawing GFX cards now-a-days:

http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/

you have suprised alot of guys in this forum, by showing us that you can just use the covered 4 pins on there own, I dont think any of us was aware of this, I know I wasnt, and probably wouldnt of tried or tested it either.

[wongnog]

There is a PSU calculator here, which will give you a rough idea of the wattage of PSU you should look into getting, to be safe I would recommend getting something slightly higher than what it recommends, just to compensate as it a little out of date, especially with higher drawing GFX cards now-a-days:

http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/

Thanks for the link, I filled it out and even overestimated some items. It reported a recommend psu of 434 w (that's for 20% capacitor aging). So hopefully a replacement 600 w GameXStream should be okay?

Lucky for me I am picking up a new PSU from OCZ today, and NCIX is shipping me a new P5Q-E for free. Ground shipping though so it'll take a few days to get here... but in the mean time I could try plugging in the new psu into the burnt out 4-pin cpu plug and see if it posts or not. But it sounds like a bit of a risky experiment don't you think? I just picture those pins being fried and trying to plug power into it causing smoke and fire!

[truehighroller]

Thanks for the link, I filled it out and even overestimated some items. It reported a recommend psu of 434 w (that's for 20% capacitor aging). So hopefully a replacement 600 w GameXStream should be okay?

Lucky for me I am picking up a new PSU from OCZ today, and NCIX is shipping me a new P5Q-E for free. Ground shipping though so it'll take a few days to get here... but in the mean time I could try plugging in the new psu into the burnt out 4-pin cpu plug and see if it posts or not. But it sounds like a bit of a risky experiment don't you think? I just picture those pins being fried and trying to plug power into it causing smoke and fire!

FIRE YAH YAH FIRE FIRE

[mdcobra]

Leeghoofd, can you help me out?
E8400, OCZ PC-8000

Working perfect with the following settings (3.8GHz), but I want to hit the magic 4GHz

By only upping the FSB to 445 and 1.375v core, I can boot, but get Orthos failures within minutes
500x8.0 results are the same, the memory isn't the bottleneck (tested it @500MHz)

What other setting could I try?


CPU Ratio Setting: AUTO
FSB Strap to Northbridge: AUTO
FSB Frequency: 423
PCI-E Frequency: 101
FSB Strap To North Bridge: AUTO
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-847

DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A2: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B2: AUTO

DRAM Timing Control: Manual
Timings: 5-5-5-15, tRFC 55, all other on AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control: AUTO
DRAM Read Training: AUTO
Mem. OC Charger: AUTO
AI Clock Twister: AUTO
AI Transaction Booster: AUTO

CPU Voltage: 1.35000v
CPU GTL (0/2): AUTO
CPU GTL (1/3): AUTO
CPU PLL: AUTO
FSB Termination Voltage: 1.20v
DRAM Voltage: 1.94v
NB Voltage: 1.26v

Loadline Calibration: Disabled
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCI-E Spread Spectrum: Disabled
CPU Clock Skew: AUTO
NB Clock Skew: AUTO

[Leeghoofd]

Working perfect with the following settings (3.8GHz), but I want to hit the magic 4GHz

CPU Ratio Setting: AUTO
FSB Strap to Northbridge: AUTO
FSB Frequency: 450
PCI-E Frequency: 101
FSB Strap To North Bridge: 850

DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A2: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B2: AUTO

DRAM Timing Control: Manual
Timings: 5-5-5-15, tRFC 55, all other on AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled -- if stable go enabled here
DRAM Read Training: AUTO
Mem. OC Charger: AUTO
AI Clock Twister: AUTO
AI Transaction Booster: AUTO -- if stable : Manual -- try 10

CPU Voltage: 1.375v with LLC -- LLC disabled : start 1.425, then try to go lower
CPU GTL (0/2): AUTO
CPU GTL (1/3): AUTO
CPU PLL: 1.56
FSB Termination Voltage: 1.26v
DRAM Voltage: 1.94v
NB Voltage: 1.26v

Loadline Calibration: Disabled -- try enabled -- otherwise up Vcore more
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCI-E Spread Spectrum: Disabled
CPU Clock Skew: AUTO
NB Clock Skew: AUTO

Good luck !
try just to enable load line calibration... set it at 1.375 then try go lower is stable... or leave it disabled and try 1.425, go lower from there... never leave CPU PLL at auto, the value is way too high !!!

[miguelca]

If you want to seriously damage or totally kill your brand new PSU... GO FOR IT!

Now talking serious, don't do that wongnog.
Just the thought of it gives me goosebumps!

Please show some respect for your hardware, ok?

Thanks for the link, I filled it out and even overestimated some items. It reported a recommend psu of 434 w (that's for 20% capacitor aging). So hopefully a replacement 600 w GameXStream should be okay?

Lucky for me I am picking up a new PSU from OCZ today, and NCIX is shipping me a new P5Q-E for free. Ground shipping though so it'll take a few days to get here... but in the mean time I could try plugging in the new psu into the burnt out 4-pin cpu plug and see if it posts or not. But it sounds like a bit of a risky experiment don't you think? I just picture those pins being fried and trying to plug power into it causing smoke and fire!

[wongnog]

If you want to seriously damage or totally kill your brand new PSU... GO FOR IT!

Now talking serious, don't do that wongnog.
Just the thought of it gives me goosebumps!

Please show some respect for your hardware, ok?

heheh okay I didn't really think it was a good idea either. I just can't believe how many times I've had to taken my P5Q-E in and out of my case. So aggravating! I finally bought a magnetized philips screwdriver to help me with those tiny motherboard screws in hard to reach places.