Project: My MM Work Log

[Utnorris]

Ok, another issue I have ran into. If I remove the stock heatsink I then have to cool the SB, Upper left mosfet and the crosslink. I am thinking I may just take the stock cooler and cut out the NB block and use the the stock heatsink for the mosfet, SB and crosslink, I know of course once this is done there will be no turning back, but since I am running CF, the selection of SB and crosslink coolers is slim to none. I thought about using the HR05SLI for the SB, but that will still leave me with the mosfet and crosslink to cool. I got an Enzotech cooler for the mosfet and of course it will not fit. I could go water cooling on the mosfet, but I was trying to avoid that, I will make a decision on that tonight I guess. Anyway, right now I am stuck and would appreciate any advice. For now, I am going to go cut the mod for the front of the case, crossing fingers, .
Thanks,
Buddy

[Utnorris]

By the way, here is a pic of the stock cooler:

[Dangals]

You know, I looked on their website and didn't see them, thanks, I will order them today. That's one issue taken care of. Thanks a million.

Not a problem mate Glad I could help

[Utnorris]

So tonight I got the front of the case modded to hold a second MCR220. Lesson learned, do not let me near a MM case with a dremel, . Seriously, thank God for the cover plate. Anyway, I got the case fans all sleeved and the rads mounted, so a little progress. Here are some pics of the sleeved fans:

[Utnorris]

And pics of the front of the case, the back fans for HD's and rads mounted:

[Utnorris]

That's it for tonight. I work on the weekends, so probably not going to be many updates. I need to sleeve the water pumps, figure out what to do on the MB cooling and drill holes for fillports.

Thanks for stopping by,

Utnorris

[CyberDruid]

Okay explain to this poor sufferer of OCD why you have the fan grills this way and that way. WHY (sobs, bites raw calloused stubs)

Oh if you need some SanAce 1011 for your project...

JK

[Utnorris]

Hmmmmm, See, I wouldn't have really noticed that, but now it bothers me too, .

Utnorris <------ Slight OCD

[IanY]

Ohh.. beautiful San Aces...

Although this guy thinks his Coolermasters produce over 90+ cfm at 19 dB.. so your San Aces sux

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=194566

[Utnorris]

Ok,
So I just got this from Ben at MM. Its the bay cover, I was kinda hoping it would show more and be visible with light from behind since I am using blue cathodes in the case, but you get the idea.
Utnorris

[Anemone]

Nice job. I too noticed the fan grills. And you wanted the chrome ones too for contrast? Hmmm... You may consider, over time or later down the road, filtering those intakes for the rads because dust loves to coat rads.

And I've often wondered that MM doesn't make standard a design like yours, but with a triple along the bottom front, and a double then going up from that on the left side. A triple and dual rad combo is a very common 2 loop system.

Anyway I love to see work on the MM cases!

[Utnorris]

Nice job. I too noticed the fan grills. And you wanted the chrome ones too for contrast? Hmmm... You may consider, over time or later down the road, filtering those intakes for the rads because dust loves to coat rads.

And I've often wondered that MM doesn't make standard a design like yours, but with a triple along the bottom front, and a double then going up from that on the left side. A triple and dual rad combo is a very common 2 loop system.

Anyway I love to see work on the MM cases!

Thank you, sir.

You can get either the Duality or the CYO U2-UFO case and that will give you 6 120's spaced along the front which would allow you to do a triple and dual rad setup. Unfortunetely, I got this off of Ebay thinking I would be able to do a few things (I didn't do my research and assumed a lot) like horizontal MB placement and of course I will not be able to do that. I am changing the grills orientation so they all match, that was a good catch by CD that I wouldn't have noticed right away and once the rads are filled it will be harder to change. As far as the chrome, it's what I have on hand and I like the way it looks with the piano black. I may do filters later on, but I find a can of air works well at cleaning the rads too.

Anyway, I like the feed back, please keep it coming as I will probably miss quite a bit of the details without realizing it, so a second(or third or fourth) set eyes always helps.

Thanks,
Utnorris

[Utnorris]

Like that drive bay cover

Thank you. Wish I could have gotten it so the light behind it would make it stick out. I am going to do some research on that and see if I can find someone that does that.

Anyway, I am liking your build and I see you got the XSPC res converter so you can attach a fitting to it. I got mine today in the mail, now to setup the filports.

Thanks again,
Utnorris

[CyberDruid]

Try taking a piece of paper just as a test and cut it to size and hold a 4" CCL tube behind it and see what you think. If you are looking for color try a piece of 1/8" colored acrylic (transparent tinted) that has been lightly sanded on one side with 320 grit. This will diffuse the harsh CCL light and enhance whatever color lamp you choose. By placing the "frosted" acrylic against the interior of your artwork bay cover in a friction fit you have the option of changing colors or whatever later. If you just want "pure" white you can use some white (semi-opaque) acrylic and it will diffuse the light much more evenly. I would mount a pair of 4" tubes at the top and bottom from behind with foam tape. Again easy to change.

[Utnorris]

Cool, will try that tonight when I get home.
Thank you Cyber, you really have some great ideas.

Utnorris

[Big_Daddy]

So tonight I got the front of the case modded to hold a second MCR220. Lesson learned, do not let me near a MM case with a dremel, . Seriously, thank God for the cover plate. Anyway, I got the case fans all sleeved and the rads mounted, so a little progress. Here are some pics of the sleeved fans:

Ok, where'd you get those san aces?

[CyberDruid]

I assumed the baycover was transparent to light in some areas...was I right ?

[lolhalol]

love how this is going.. subscribed..

[Utnorris]

I assumed the baycover was transparent to light in some areas...was I right ?

No, it turns out it's a solid black. I am talking with MM about possibly doing a clear with the etching and then a solid black piece behind that with 2 blue led's installed on both sides of the etching. They also suggested a mirrored peice, but I don't think it would go well with the case. Another choice would be either transparent blue or smoked. Will have to do some experimenting with it to see what looks best.

Thanks,
Buddy

[Utnorris]

Ok, where'd you get those san aces?

Had a bunch laying around, so I used them. They push a decent amount of air even at 5v's.

love how this is going.. subscribed..

Thanks,

Buddy

[CyberDruid]

The photo made me think it was transparent...lol

Hmmm...you could recess the etched cover and hide some small (flexible LED strip?) lighting behind the lip of the opening ....maybe use some of that non-reflective glass you can find in cheap picture frames (WalMart) to close off the front of the opening from the inside and leave a small space the width of the led module or w/e and then the etched cover...making a "shadowbox" of sorts.

Or you could overlay it with a piece of polished or lasercut acrylic cut out in the center to outline the artwork and edge the acrylic with embedded LEDs...and cover the acrylic frame with either aluminum or plastic or paint plastic...w/e to hide the lights and then if you take it one more step and route a 45 degree chamfer and lightly sand that and apply the acrylic trim piece so that the angle of the chamfer faces the etched piece it will take most of the LED light from the edges and transmit it through the frosted edge.

I imagine that using some spare Lian Li type bay covers and simply cutting them to make the trim pieces for the acrylic would look good. Trim them to just cover the lights and glue them in place with Goop. To me indirect lighting that just illuminates the area you desire is worth the trouble...similar to the shaded tube lamps often used over paintings and artwork...just in miniature.

[Asgard_thor]

subscribed x 1000000

beautiful, kiss the BLACK SHINY PAINT NOW

[Utnorris]

The photo made me think it was transparent...lol

Hmmm...you could recess the etched cover and hide some small (flexible LED strip?) lighting behind the lip of the opening ....maybe use some of that non-reflective glass you can find in cheap picture frames (WalMart) to close off the front of the opening from the inside and leave a small space the width of the led module or w/e and then the etched cover...making a "shadowbox" of sorts.

Or you could overlay it with a piece of polished or lasercut acrylic cut out in the center to outline the artwork and edge the acrylic with embedded LEDs...and cover the acrylic frame with either aluminum or plastic or paint plastic...w/e to hide the lights and then if you take it one more step and route a 45 degree chamfer and lightly sand that and apply the acrylic trim piece so that the angle of the chamfer faces the etched piece it will take most of the LED light from the edges and transmit it through the frosted edge.

I imagine that using some spare Lian Li type bay covers and simply cutting them to make the trim pieces for the acrylic would look good. Trim them to just cover the lights and glue them in place with Goop. To me indirect lighting that just illuminates the area you desire is worth the trouble...similar to the chaded tube lamps often used over paintings and artwork...just in miniature.

Yeah, I really need to show you what I did with that dremel to the front cover. I do have a couple of ideas I am going to try this week. I have a few more supplies coming in so I can make my OCZ Gamestream PSU half modular, plus I need to re-sleeve it with the blue sleeving. So much for the warranty on the PSU though, but hey, doesn't modding mean screwing the warranty, lol.

subscribed x 1000000

beautiful, kiss the BLACK SHINY PAINT NOW

Thanks, I have a couple of pics to post tonight, nothing major, still waiting for parts, but it's something.

Utnorris

[CyberDruid]

THat looks sexy.

You may need a cable tie around the middle of that one tube: it's starting to kink in the middle...

[Utnorris]

Yeah, I was thinking that too. The Koolance compression fittings use 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD so the walls are thin and seem to want to kink easily. Do you know if the Tygon in the same size is the same way?
Thanks,
Utnorris