Asus P5E3 Premium Wi-fi-AP

[Telo]

I'm trying to figure that one out myself, because next weekend everything is going water.

So, if anyone has any ideas as to the easiest way to remove them, the suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

First up, I take no responsibility on the outcome, but this is what I did to run this board under water:

Run your board on a stress test for an hour or so, that will soften up the thermal compound without the heat gun; doing this without placing the board in the case is ideal. Once you shut it down, go to work on the screws, then place a thick piece of plastic [old CD case, game case, whatever you can get] on the board area you are going to apply some lite pressure with a flat screwdriver [you shouldn't need to apply much strength if you run your board for at least an hour with a stress test]; your first target should be the SB heatsink as you do not want to bend the heatpipe coming from it to the NB heatsink. Once the SB is done, quickly move for the NB, now you hold the entire assembly by the heatpipe coming from the NB in both directions; get your piece of plactic and place it in a spot that will allow you to apply the lite pressure to pop the heatsink. When you remove then, they will make a kind of loud pop sound, you shouldn't be alarmed about it. The next step is the push pins for the VR heatsinks, using a pair of small pliers will do the trick there, just be careful not to scratch the board or over pressure the pins.

[metro.cl]

Hey guys

Just received this board and am having trouble with removing the passive cooling setup. I have unsecured the screws and pushpins but the both the SB and NB do not budge.

Should I let it be?

Not really crazy about breaking out the heat gun, but maybe plugging the board in and running it 4 a bit should loosen up the sh*t they applied on there.

Grrr

I'm trying to figure that one out myself, because next weekend everything is going water.

So, if anyone has any ideas as to the easiest way to remove them, the suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

Actually it is pretty hard, i has a ton of thermal paste and it is really sticky, i used a hair dryer at the point of almost burning my fingers then it came out. The bad part is you are really limited to twist the heatsink to help removing it, be careful because i bended the heatpipe that goes to the SB in the process.

[soapman72]

I noticed a strange phenomenon when attempting to overclock my new ram today. My current settings are as follows.

FSB: 450
STRAP: 333
Clock Twister: STRONGER
PL 7
VNB 1.57v
VDimm 1.90v

The ram in question is OCZ 2x2gb Reaper 1800mhz. I was attempting to set my FSB to 460 to gain another 100mhz out of the CPU and another 40mhz out of the ram. My ram timings are set to stock 8-8-8-27-2N with the Trfc set to 72 My system has been totally stable. I have let prime95 run for as many as 5 hours amd also for at least 3 hours after tightening the Trfc from 88 to 72.

The rather high NB voltage is keeping me from wanting to push things much further, btu today, I set the FSB to 460, bumped the CPU Vcore a few clicks, and raised the VDimm to 1.94 to see if it would run 460. I also loosened the Clock twister form STRONGER to AUTO. I made it through 2 memtest passes without error, but I would get a rounding error in Prime95 after only 5 minutes. I am worried about adding any more voltage to the NB, so I realize that may be holding me back. Here is where I get to my point. \

When I run an Everest bandwidth and latency benchmark, no 2 runs are exactly the same, there is a small variance, which I assume is normal, but when I tested the bandwidth with the clock twister set to AUTO, the scores, on average seem better than the scores on STRONGER. The Read and Latency scores are the only ones to improve for sure, but the Write and Copy scores stayed the same. For the heck of it, I also tried STRONG, which I thought would perform about the same as AUTO, and it did.

I guess, I will leave the Clock Twister set to auto if it is still stable. I cant figure out why the scores would improve with the Clock Twister set to Auto or Strong as compared to Stronger. I am running Bios ver 0503. If the performance is better, I probably wont get to drop that NB voltage, which was one of the reasons I tried the Auto setting in the first place.

For the record, I also tried MODERATE, and that dropped the Read score 300-350mb/sec and killed the latency score.


Anyone seen this before?

[Donster]

Hi chaps

Just completed my new build (see sig) everything went really well except one thing, I bought a Creative XFI titanium and have popping/crackling issues!!!! I thought this would of been fixed by now ... its been ages since Vista was released anyone else got one of these on an Asus P5E3 prem and have it working correctly? Damn it ... I get the feeling i should of been pacient and waited for an XFI prelude ... any help appreciated

[Puttz]

Thanks Telo & Metro

[voodo]

I have one question. Why did you leave XP and go to Vista? What can Vista do thats XP cant? Vista is a security hog. Bill Gates wanted to protect himself. Didn't care about you. Everything thing you do in Vista has to go though a security check first. That why its so slow. Heres a quote from Bill Veghte, Senior Vice President. Microsoft acknowledged that Windows Vista was not the easy Windows update customers had expected. In a letter posted on June 23, entitled "An Update on the Windows Road-map," Bill Veghte, Senior Vice President, On line Services & Windows Business Group wrote: "The architectural changes that improved security and resilience in Windows Vista led to compatibility issues with existing hardware and applications. Many hardware drivers and applications needed to be updated, and while the majority worked well when we launched Windows Vista, some key applications and drivers were not yet available. Since then, Microsoft and its industry partners have been hard at work to address compatibility issues and now the situation is fundamentally different." Good Luck people. I just bought two more XPs before they stop selling them.

[canislupy]

Rant much? Ever hear of disabling that Vista feature? Besides, as everyone knows, when you take any Creative sound card vs. any OS, default blame goes to Creative. POS cards that they are. From what I have read, the PCIe bus has given Creative even more issues than they have already with the PCI bus in regards to the constant snap-crackle-pop they put out. However, most Creative fanbois blame Kellogg's.

[rubberToe]

Actually it is pretty hard, i has a ton of thermal paste and it is really sticky, i used a hair dryer at the point of almost burning my fingers then it came out. The bad part is you are really limited to twist the heatsink to help removing it, be careful because i bended the heatpipe that goes to the SB in the process.

Thanks for the response Metro.

I used to have a heat gun, I figured hammering the board with some stress tests for 2 hrs would loosen it up but nothing would budge. Yeah, I attempted to wiggle loose the NB and SB but it seemed like it did not want to budge. I even gave it a bit of a pry with a putty knife using whatever I had laying around for leverage. It didn't feel as if the gunk even got warm enough.

So I held myself back and decided not to mess with it anymore for now.

Not getting anywhere yet with an overclock on this board. So that is the current issue, if the board decides to cooperate then I will attempt to remove the passive cooling again.

[BadNizze]

Uppdate on the BSOD\Reboot issue, Well first I tested running my CPU Stock with ram at 1333 6-6-5-16 1T @ 1,72v (Adata GTR) It did not help, then i tested other combos of voltage NB\CPU\Ram did not help either. So I tryed the only setting I had not played with before, Pci-e speed! I´m at 110mhz and not a sigel hickup for the last 12h! Mayby it was my HD 4850 al along? Will try some HOMM5\Test Drive later to!

I put my board in the freezer for an hour or so an the heatpipe came of with minmal force

[Donster]

Ok i took the plunge with the auzentech xfi prelude ... hopefully this SC will work properly! xfi titanium RMA'd

[Donster]

Guys this is driving me nuts! I RMA'd the creative xfi titanium because of cracking and popping issues ... i enable the onboard sound and what do you know! I have SCP again ... As i test i removed nvidia drivers and the SCP has gone away!! WTF is going on

[Donster]

what a surprise ... nvidia drivers back on (new beta) and the SCP is back ...

[BadNizze]

Uppdate on the BSOD\Reboot issue, Well first I tested running my CPU Stock with ram at 1333 6-6-5-16 1T @ 1,72v (Adata GTR) It did not help, then i tested other combos of voltage NB\CPU\Ram did not help either. So I tryed the only setting I had not played with before, Pci-e speed! I´m at 110mhz and not a sigel hickup for the last 12h! Mayby it was my HD 4850 al along? Will try some HOMM5\Test Drive later to!

I put my board in the freezer for an hour or so an the heatpipe came of with minmal force

Well all good things must come to an end, my comp black screend toaday. And refused to boot an hour ago Back to sqare one!

[Donster]

Bios 0503 makes no diff! im gona try upping pcie freq a tad

[Donster]

Tried all sorts of settings now with no luck! upped pcie freq, disabled acpi 2.0! im running out of options ... do you think moving my vid card to a diff pcie slot is a good idea?

[lockeh]

Anyone noticed that load line calibration causes blue screens when enbled, I had alot of blue screens etc, turned it off and uped the volts to counter the vdrop, its been rock solid now.

[Donster]

Anyone noticed that load line calibration causes blue screens when enbled, I had alot of blue screens etc, turned it off and uped the volts to counter the vdrop, its been rock solid now.

Yup ... setting LLC to normal is disabled = intel specs

On another note i changed my vid card to the bottom pcie 16x slot and the popping/cracking sounds seem to have gone .... so strange

[Puttz]

Uppdate on the BSOD\Reboot issue, Well first I tested running my CPU Stock with ram at 1333 6-6-5-16 1T @ 1,72v (Adata GTR) It did not help, then i tested other combos of voltage NB\CPU\Ram did not help either. So I tryed the only setting I had not played with before, Pci-e speed! I´m at 110mhz and not a sigel hickup for the last 12h! Mayby it was my HD 4850 al along? Will try some HOMM5\Test Drive later to!

I put my board in the freezer for an hour or so an the heatpipe came of with minmal force

Does the freezer trick really work?

I hate the thought of a heat gun, heard to many stories of chips coming off too.

Everything goes water this weekend, so one way or the other is gotta com off....

Thanks

[Donster]

I really am close to smashing this pc up lol! I had issues with sound popping and cracking, So i Rma'd the xfi titanium thinking it was the old creative+vista issue and got a refund, much to my dissapointment I had the same cracking and popping using the onboard sound, so as a test i removed video card drivers, after a reboot the sound was then fine but obviously i had no video capability!!!! so I removed the video card and moved it to the other 16x slot installed the drivers and everthing was fine ... no popping or cracking, well today my new SC turnt up, so I disabled the onboard sound again and fitted the xfi prelude, problem is no matter what pci slot I put the card in it causes the video card to play up, everything seems fine untill I get just before the welcome screen, all of a sudden the GTX280 green LED turns red and i get a No signal message on my lcd ... remove the SC and everything boots fine ... please please somebody help

[dood001]

sxs112 has posted a beta BIOS 0505... http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...169543&page=13 . I havent tried it yet - later tonight.

[Telo]

I really am close to smashing this pc up lol! I had issues with sound popping and cracking, So i Rma'd the xfi titanium thinking it was the old creative+vista issue and got a refund, much to my dissapointment I had the same cracking and popping using the onboard sound, so as a test i removed video card drivers, after a reboot the sound was then fine but obviously i had no video capability!!!! so I removed the video card and moved it to the other 16x slot installed the drivers and everthing was fine ... no popping or cracking, well today my new SC turnt up, so I disabled the onboard sound again and fitted the xfi prelude, problem is no matter what pci slot I put the card in it causes the video card to play up, everything seems fine untill I get just before the welcome screen, all of a sudden the GTX280 green LED turns red and i get a No signal message on my lcd ... remove the SC and everything boots fine ... please please somebody help

Take it from someone that had the board, it is not an easy OC'ing board. If it is giving you so much aggrevation, just switch it out [if you can return it].

[sauria]

How does your BlackOps do, Telo, comapred to this board?

[Telo]

How does your BlackOps do, Telo, comapred to this board?

It's like night and day man. BIOS updates come out on the regular [we are up to revision G28, I think it was revision G17 when I got it about a month ago].

[sauria]

Good to hear -- and it''s easy to OC?

[nick2006]

Anyone noticed that load line calibration causes blue screens when enbled, I had alot of blue screens etc, turned it off and uped the volts to counter the vdrop, its been rock solid now.

Please. friend lockeh, share with us your exact settings (especially memory and voltage).

THANK YOU SO MUCH