In body HDR first attempt

[eva2000]

With my Pentax K200D and newly arrived Sigma 18-50mm EX f/2.8 macro and hood, ran out to take these shots before I loose daylight and played with in body HDR levels (seems to auto crop the image when I used the HDR function in body).

No post-processing, straight out of camera into Lightroom for export as 80% JPEG -> resize for thumbnails and larger 1200px width copy - keeping EXIF info intact.

Click thumbnail for larger version:

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 13:56:20
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 18.0mm (35mm equivalent: 27mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.013 s (1/80)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 125
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Manual

Original


In body HDR level 1 processing

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 13:56:40
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 40.0mm (35mm equivalent: 60mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.013 s (1/80)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 125
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Manual

Original


In body HDR level 1 processing


In body HDR level 2 processing


In body HDR level 3 processing


Just realised I left the white balance on Flourescent White for above LOL

[Serpentarius]

too bright ... the initial pic is already good ... too bright = overexpose?

that's my opinion .. i think the original pics is really top notch

[eva2000]

Thanks for comment... so it would of been better in a not so overexposed image for HDR ?

[[XC] Lead Head]

The In body HDR doesn't seem to be doing much accept making the image brighter. I don't see the dynamic range increase at all. How does this in body HDR work?

[YukonTrooper]

First picture is accurate, but then you start to lose contrast in the following photos.

[eva2000]

Not sure how the in body HDR works .. still a DLSR newb hehe

Haven't given up on in body HDR yet. Second attempt seems a bit better late evening but this time used Sigma 10-20mm @10mm and tried to incorporate a bit more sky in the photos

Also tried auto-bracket 3 images at -/+ 0.3EV and put it through CS3 merge into HDR function probably too small a step to make a difference ?

Single photo
Original image (left) vs in body HDR level 2 (right)

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 17:10:20
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 10.0mm (35mm equivalent: 15mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.250 s (1/4)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 200
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Manual

Single photo
Original image, in body HDR level 1, in body HDR level 2, in body HDR level 3

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 17:10:37
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 10.0mm (35mm equivalent: 15mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.125 s (1/8)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 200
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Auto Bracketing

Another attempt at single photo
Original image, in body HDR level 1, in body HDR level 2, in body HDR level 3

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 17:10:58
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 10.0mm (35mm equivalent: 15mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.100 s (1/10)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 200
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Auto Bracketing

Now tried auto bracket 3 images -/+ 0.3EV fed through CS3 merge HDR feature.



Better or worse than first attempt ? Or maybe the problem is the end user = me :o

[Soulburner]

You won't see much difference at those settings. You really need to try bracketing 3 shots at -2, 0, +2 to get more dynamic range.

I can't really tell what the camera is doing, but you cannot boost DR from a single shot with software processing...looks to me like its simply brightening the image.

[eva2000]

Yeah going to try -/+ 2EV - all above done hand held as grass is wet and muddy - don't want to get my tripod dirty heh.

Personally I like the CS3 HDR method result. Messed with the CS3 HDR file's highlights etc

[Cold Fussion]

To be honest, those images are about as close to HDR as i am to having sex with Jessica Alba. Seriously, how are you doing HDR with a single photo? It is physically impossible.

[eva2000]

Honestly, know idea as I'm a newb LOL

closest could find to explaining it is at http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=26494170

[[XC] Lead Head]

Even that, that doesn't look like very good HDR. Your better off taking 3 pictures of the same thing at -2, 0 and +2 and using something like Photomatix or the CS2/CS3 merge to HDR function

[eva2000]

I used CS3 merge HDR for post #8 photo http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...23&postcount=8 but only +/- 0.3EV was used.

[Cold Fussion]

looks like your applying too much sharpen filter.

[eva2000]

Yeah looks like proper way for HDR with several photos reveals a better result, just lack of photoshop skills to know how to adjust the HDR 32bit file i think as well ?

latest try on the existing images



these is the original file, under and over exposed photos.

[eva2000]

Thanks to Cooties from OCAU for putting me on to Dynamic Photo HDR program - so far best for a newb like me who tried Photomatrix basic and CS3 merge HDR and HDR fake via layers etc.

Plucked the 3 originals - original file, under and over exposed photos into Dynamic Photo HDR trial program and it gave me a few preset methods to choose from including a Sky filter to prevent that halo like look.















My last attempt looked a bit like auto-adaptive method, guess need to change subject matter :heh:

The eye catching and auto-adaptive outputs

[Soulburner]

If you want perfectly aligned shots, CS3 is unbeatable. No other program will get you a better final picture that is "true to life". Check some of the ones I have posted. No one can guess they were HDR because they look realistic - mission accomplished, that is what HDR is all about

That is much better than your first attempt though I must say.

[[XC] Lead Head]

There is not enough difference between those pictures. You NEED to take a picture at -2, 0 and +2. .3 difference is not enough to do anything.

[eva2000]

If you want perfectly aligned shots, CS3 is unbeatable. No other program will get you a better final picture that is "true to life". Check some of the ones I have posted. No one can guess they were HDR because they look realistic - mission accomplished, that is what HDR is all about

That is much better than your first attempt though I must say.

guess i'm getting confused as to what HDR is meant to be.. i see some HDR that look like painting like heh

Here's another attempt with different subject matter. This time auto bracketed for 3x 6M res JPEG photos at -/+ 2.0EV and tried several methods including:

1. CS3 HDR Merge
2. CS3 HDR Merge + layering
3. Dynamic Photo HDR methods

• Make - PENTAX Corporation
• Model - PENTAX K200D
• Software - K200D Ver 1.00
• DateTime - 2008:06:22 11:49:48
• ExposureTime - 1/80 seconds
• FNumber - 11.00
• ExposureProgram - Manual control
• ISOSpeedRatings - 125
• DateTimeOriginal - 2008:06:22 11:49:48
• DateTimeDigitized - 2008:06:22 11:49:48
• ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr
• ExposureBiasValue - 0.00
• MeteringMode - Multi-segment
• Flash - Flash not fired, compulsory flash mode
• FocalLength - 18.00 mm
• CustomRendered - Normal process
• ExposureMode - Auto bracket
• White Balance - Manual
• FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 27 mm

Just the thumbnails this time. The original 6M res JPEGs, 0ev, -2ev, +2ev

CS3 HDR Merge vs CS3 HDR Merge + layering (2 versions)


3. Dynamic Photo HDR methods

Method: Eye-catching vs Method: Ultra Contrast vs Method: Photographic


i must be doing something wrong post HDR 32bit generation ?? Maybe someone can take my originals - 0ev, -2ev, +2ev and see what they come up with ?

Might prove that problem is the end user = me LOL

[Dave_Sz]

does the k200 not come with the kit 18-55mm pentax lens in australia?