Painting 101

[Nate P.]

Man, all these cases look sick! Maybe it's time for a new project...

[Xeanor]

I used a little cork block for the sanding, which i bought at the construction mall for like 50 cents. Wrapping the sandpaper around it and it was pretty neat to use. Certain speeded up the work.

As for the paint, the primer is a very cheap and simple water-based one. The Paint however was a bit more expensive, it's based on alkyd resin and I just looked it up and seems to be very popular for certain applications because it's damn strong. Seems like I made the right choice. It's all just pretty basic dutch brands I picked up at the local construction mall, it's not really professional. I haven't used any stuff that was designed for automotive purposes.

This was my very first paint job by the way. As you can see, it just takes a little bit of common sense, proper materials and patience to get a good result. (When you've done primer or paint, just wait until the next day before you start doing anything to it, like sanding the primer) The advice I've read all over the web certainly helped me a lot.

What I found about the paint: http://home.howstuffworks.com/alkyd-resin-paint.htm

These are some very helpful videos too, although I didn't do things like the wet sanding or clearcoats yet: http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/f...ad.php?t=13235

Here's a pic of all that was needed for this little paintjob:

[hare]

good job mang . exellent idea on the sanding block. using your bare hand can leave finger trails in the primer that ( can ) show up through your finish .

actual sanding blocks are about 3 bucks so U bought yourself a starbucks coffee 4 free *LOL*

[hare]

man, looks sweet as is . when in doubt don't. spray can paint ( krylon ) ( rustolium ) balls up when U try to wet sand it and your job would be trashed. Using spray can paint shoot your color coats ,let each coat tack up then shoot clear coats if U want while color coats are still wet . I read the article on the paint U used. Try shooting some scrap metal and let it dry , see if it will wet sand . use 1200 with a drop of dish soap and see if it works. then all of us will have yet another product to use ..

[Planet]

I forgot to post these. This was with my first time shooting a HVLP gun. The corners have a few spots and theres one run. Overall good practice. 3 coats of silver and one coat of blue.

[Hughyhunter]

man, looks sweet as is . when in doubt don't. spray can paint ( krylon ) ( rustolium ) balls up when U try to wet sand it and your job would be trashed. Using spray can paint shoot your color coats ,let each coat tack up then shoot clear coats if U want while color coats are still wet . I read the article on the paint U used. Try shooting some scrap metal and let it dry , see if it will wet sand . use 1200 with a drop of dish soap and see if it works. then all of us will have yet another product to use ..

Wait... Dont use spray cans? I dont know what else I can do. I have not enough cash to purchase air gun or whatever. If I have to use spray can will you recommend brand of paint and what kind. I want blue inside. Maybe do outside too.
If outside it painted black what is proper preperation for painting on already black case?

[Xeanor]

Wait... Dont use spray cans? I dont know what else I can do. I have not enough cash to purchase air gun or whatever. If I have to use spray can will you recommend brand of paint and what kind. I want blue inside. Maybe do outside too.
If outside it painted black what is proper preperation for painting on already black case?

He didn't say not to use spray cans, he's telling me not to go wet sanding or anything on spray can paint. Which I haven't yet.

Oh, and about the scrap metal thing, I've actually bought a little can of rubbing compound and tried that on a little spot on the bottom of the case.... it actually became more faded because of it. Which kind of means that 1200 grit will just scr*w it up even more. There's no way that 1200 grit paper will be smoother than rubbing compound. So basically, this paint I've used is AWESOME, and I just picked it at random. The highgloss black water-based one was out of stock, I even went to ask at the store clerk if they had any in the back but he told me they needed to be scanned in, so I took the double-priced alkyd resin stuff.... somehow things always turn out in a good way for me.

There's a few 'edges' though where it's not 100% perfect on it.... it's because I was too hasty and didnt use a light coat first, I sprayed on one big thick coat in one go and that turned out all right for most of the thing anyway. I redid the bad spots but the problem is that if you put a second layer on you have to put it all over the surface, tiny little drips from the outer radius of the area the can gets to won't be shiny, it gets rough. If you're using this kinda stuff, spray it only on horizontal surfaces, spray a very light coat first, not shiny at all. Let it dry and then spray over the thick coat. Turned out really well for me, as you can see.

[Hughyhunter]

Cool... thanks Xeanor. I'll apply those idea's as well as Hares to my "new" paint job. As this will be the better job that I perform on my Nine hundred than the first. First one just looks terrible as the paint is not strong (due to my lack of prep) and pieces are finally coming off.

[hare]

U don't have to spend big bucks for a decent spray rig for painting cases. I invested just a shade under 100.00 for compressor,water trap,spray gun ,air brush ,hose and 1 regulator at the gun ... however I did buy a nice 10 foot hose for the air brush , that will add about 24.00 .. as far as rubbing compound vs 1200 grit . rubbing compound ( is ) sand paper in liguid form and comes in grades ( fine,coarse ,medium etc) just like sand paper . polishing compound brings the finish back after wet sanding . that's why it's dull now mang.. get some miguires ultra fine POLISHING COMPOUND and fix it . I'm just trying 2 help here man.. http://www.tcpglobal.com/detailsupplydepot/dsd6.aspx lots of choices for lots of applications .. if ya can't trust this face , who can ya ??
*LOL*

[Hughyhunter]

@ hare. Your right! Maybe I'm just being cheap by not wanting to invest in compressor. I really ought to but am going to wait until own a house and have a garage. Right now though I'll just be scraping, sanding, priming, painting (I think I'll just have to get some high quality spray can paint... any suggestions?) and then sanding again because I want a clear coat. The instructional video helped me understand more.
One question: spray can brands and type. Exact kind would be nice. I want deep blue inside and out.
Second question: I know I ask a lot but what about plastic? I have Antec 900 and want entire thing deep, deep blue. How do I paint plastic top without deviating from way it looks compared to metal?

[Xeanor]

For plastic (although I haven't done it yet) you don't really need to sand anything as far as I know, but if you do only do it very very lightly. I've seen 'plastic adhesion promoter' cans in the automotive section of the store I was, which is for painting plastic parts. (remember, a car is not only metal) and, as far as i know, if you use that before the paint, everything should turn out pretty ok.

The paint of my case is completely dried up now btw.... and it's so damn strong, I can't believe it. If this stuff comes off I'd be damn surprised.

[melanko]

I'm going to be doing some painting on my case in the near future. One tip I learned for using orbital polishers for a polished finish is to use a 100% Cotton shirt rather than the replaceable cotton pads.

They will both do a very good job, it's just that using old shirts is much more economical.

[hare]

cotton shirt is good , detailers and painters doing high end jobs use a old school cloth diaper ...

[hare]

ok, I'll say it again . If your going 2 paint it, PREP IT .. for PLASTIC use red scotchbrite and scuff it up good or wash your plastic part real good with AJAX or COMET and be a bit agressive .. Then use correct primer for plastic .. Even if if U prep plastic correctly paint adhesion can still be a pain in the ____ ..off road motorcycle fenders etc are the worst...

[hare]

food 4 thought . here is a product that looks sweet . It gives a marble effect
on what U shoot. Comes in a whole bunch of colors and it's pretty cheap .

[hixie]

Wow, hare. Thats some interesting paint. If i had to do that by hand with a needle tip airbrush i'd rather kill myself

[melanko]

food 4 thought . here is a product that looks sweet . It gives a marble effect
on what U shoot. Comes in a whole bunch of colors and it's pretty cheap .

Wow, how the heck does that stuff work?

[hare]

LOL, i'd join ya HAHA actually , it's ready 2 spray in the can....

[hare]

the cob web paint is shot over a metallic base . It comes ready out of the can . It shoots almost a silly string dark strip along with a color clear . that's how it gets the marble effect ..so, metallic base , cob web , clear coat , done.another cheap trick is : shoot a metallic base coat ( silver / gold ) and use this canned tinted clear . ready made candy job with a TON less work . Looks like a million bucks .maker is KILLER CANS .. the place I use is located in Anaheim CA . PAINT CONNECTION . brookhurst and lapalma . they are way helpful , have a bunch of products just waiting 2 get on a PC case .

[hare]

and last but not least . HOT HUES systems . Made by Dupont . base , color , clear , pearls, candys , all right on 1 rack for the picking .. This stuff can get a bit pricy..and also . surface cleaner . ( Prep all ) . Works exellent . removes wax, grease, sweat ,oily fingerprints . very cheap for a quart ( $ 7.00 ) . that will last for a Bunch case jobs. Works exellent for cleaning wires ..electrical tape gunk etc also circut boards , fans and so on . a dab on a q tip and detail away .. VERY COST EFFECTIVE.. I'm going 2 hit a SUPER BAD airbrush
center here in a few days and get some shots of Big time products for Long method candy, pearl , Flake ,ghost graphics and more .. bottle pearl, wet and dry , flake small medium and large . too many colors 2 even try to mention . Top of the line airbrush compressors , brushes, aftermarket cups (metal / plastic ) I'd say no less than 1000 stensils @ $ 24.00 a kit . spider webs , skulls, ghosts, pirates, ladies,anything U can think up it's there..
These boy's here are a bit stand offish at 1st but warm up when they see Your truly intersted and wanting to learn about the products and tools . They have a GAZILLION instructional videos, catalongs , Paint products and Manufacturers .. Coast Airbrush In anaheim . Corner of anaheim blvd and lincoln .

Pics will come in a few days from now. saturday or monday I'm shooting for.

[Hughyhunter]

Thanks Hare... I'll have to find a store like that... I'm in North Caly though. I'll look in phone book... Maybe I'll just mail you the case and you can do it!

Nah... I'll have the time early May. Stencils sound cool. Maybe a pirate on my 900? I want the deep blue/sparkle. CAnt wait!

[Hughyhunter]

I found this on page one of this thread... CAnt wait to see what some of it will do

http://www.alsacorp.com/killercans.htm

[hare]

YEP, that's the stuff. It's pretty inexpensive too concidering all the time and work it saves. As far as shipping me your case to paint *LOL* I'm buried as is mang ..I'm killin myself to find time 2 work on my new project , well , it's a week old now and about 3 days behind hahahaha .

[nelsoncp21]

I have a quick question. I am doing my first paint job and will be painting the exterior of the case a gloss black. I just got some u channel molding in today for around my windows but it's a faded flat black color. Can I add the molding after I do the primer coat and paint it along with the case so it matches the case color or no? I am not sure since the molding is a rubber material.

[Hughyhunter]

I have a quick question. I am doing my first paint job and will be painting the exterior of the case a gloss black. I just got some u channel molding in today for around my windows but it's a faded flat black color. Can I add the molding after I do the primer coat and paint it along with the case so it matches the case color or no? I am not sure since the molding is a rubber material.

You should be alright. I would probably scuff the molding up (maybe scotch bright?) prime it separatley with plastic adhesion or rubber primer (wonder if they make something especially for rubber) than add with you are about to do your base coat.
Dont forget to prep case good... I found again and again that a proper paint job is almost "all" prep... sand, prime, paint, seal!