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Thread: 8800GTS 512Mb (G92) vMods

  1. #451
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    the reasons are unknown.....about 3-4 weeks after benching with her on an SS,it simply wont work..
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  2. #452
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    Smile WOW what cooling can do for a graphic card

    I put on a accelero s1 with different mem cooling and cooling for all the componets it was hiting about 72C now it wont go pass 52C, my overclock went to 828/2106/1080 to 865/2215/1250 i like to add i just add the vmem mod
    Msi P7N Dimond SLi
    Q6600@3600
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    8800gts 512mb 850/2160/1215
    3dmark06:17220
    crysis all very high at 1680x1050:29.9

  3. #453
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    You can't really get any higher of an OC w/ better cooling over stock if you don't do any mods, but if you do decide to volt-mod, the extra cooling capacity makes a world of difference!
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  4. #454
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    @jason4207
    I disagree, Depending of the speed of the GPU cooler, the card achieves stability at different clocks. Mine card when the cooler is set to 40% is starts showing artifacts after 20mins @core: 760, shader: 1890, video RAM: 1044Mhz. At 70% it is stable for hours @core:800, shader 1944, video RAM: 1044MHz.

  5. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by gOJDO View Post
    @jason4207
    I disagree, Depending of the speed of the GPU cooler, the card achieves stability at different clocks. Mine card when the cooler is set to 40% is starts showing artifacts after 20mins @core: 760, shader: 1890, video RAM: 1044Mhz. At 70% it is stable for hours @core:800, shader 1944, video RAM: 1044MHz.
    I guess I should have qualified.

    I always ran my stock cooler at 100% when pushing the card hard. The stock cooler @ 100% vs. any aftermarket air-cooling solution will have the same OC results w/o any volt mods. There is no real reason to go throw a bunch of cash on aftermarket air-cooling on these cards if you are just trying for higher clocks.

    I was able to run the fan near 70% w/o it being noticeable above the fans in the rest of my rig, so 40% fan really has no relevance for me. In games I would usually run at about 70%...a little higher for Crysis, and my max OC always held...no crashes.

    Now, if you just want your card to run cooler or look different that is one thing, but don't expect any higher OC results.

    Once you volt-mod, however, extra cooling makes a huge difference!
    ES Q9550 E0 @ 4.0GHz (471x8.5) 1.256v
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  6. #456
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    heres a stock cooler run with low ambient temps 1.39 LOAD
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  7. #457
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    That's one really nice piece of hardware you got there cowie. 936 core and 2322 shader with only 1.39 VGPU under load. Mine can't even hit 900 with 1.4v idle unless I chill the water. But then again I'm sitting with 33C room temps which doesn't help.

    Seems like the latest GTS's clock better then the older ones.... not just memory, I mean core as well..

  8. #458
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    yeah this is a good one it only takes 1.29 to get to 900 at 20_25 idle c no more than 43load bench stable.
    i dont add volts till i have the temps under control,theres no use to add volts if you dont.
    at 33c room temps they just take too many volts to get where you wanna go without running into temp problems because of volts.
    _________________

  9. #459
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    I'm on stock Vcore (1.15V) hitting 836 Mhz with stock fan @ 50% with a ambient temp off 19°C...
    Shaders pops up to ~2200...

    Like I said, without vmods, 100% stock card .
    And still I will not own everyone[/FONT]

  10. #460
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    Prodigys,
    That's some golden chippery you got there...
    Q6600 that does 4.185GHz @ <1.4v under water, and then that G92GTS.
    You were not supposed to see this.

  11. #461
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    could be the first 1GHz core card with watercooling with reasonable ambients
    Team.AU
    Got tube?
    GIGABYTE Australia
    Need a GIGABYTE bios or support?



  12. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by largon View Post
    Prodigys,
    That's some golden chippery you got there...
    Q6600 that does 4.185GHz @ <1.4v under water, and then that G92GTS.
    I know, I'm selling it right now on a dutch forum, highest bid so far is 240€ (375$). Looks like I'm lucky with my GTS and Q6600 .

    Quote Originally Posted by dinos22 View Post
    could be the first 1GHz core card with watercooling with reasonable ambients
    If I could get a nice WC block for my card I would try it.
    And still I will not own everyone[/FONT]

  13. #463
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    even a simple one like Swiftech MCW60 does a very nice job...
    these cards are cold already..
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  14. #464
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    hey guys I'm about to do my mods later today, just got the pots in this morning
    I know this is a silly question but what do you recommend using to hold down the pots?

  15. #465
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    I use double-sided sticky tape...the thick white stuff.
    ES Q9550 E0 @ 4.0GHz (471x8.5) 1.256v
    TR-Ultra-120-X, 115CFM 120mm fan
    Maximus II Formula @ 1884MHz FSB
    Ballistix DDR2-800 (4x1GB) 1132MHz 5-5-5-5-15 4-55-8-14-11-3-8-5-4-2T
    eVGA GTX 280 @ 702c/1404s/1260m (1.175v)

    Auzentech XPlosion DTS-Interactive Vantage 'X'-6,727
    300GB Velociraptor, PC P&C 750W
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    Logitech Driving Force Pro-Microsim Racing Pod

  16. #466
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    Dumbest vmod question ever.... Which of the 3 pieces of metal coming out of the pots are , -, +, and the 3rd????

  17. #467
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    There is no polarity w/ resistors.

    You'll always want to use the middle lead b/c that is the wiper, and gives you the variance. If you just use the outside 2 leads you'll have a fixed value resistor.

    Which of the 2 outside leads you choose will depend on which way you want to turn the pot to decrease resistance/increase voltage. I set mine up so that a clockwise motion results in reduced resistance/higher voltage. Use your DMM. Always set the VR to max resistance before installing it, and it's a good idea to cut the unused lead off, so you don't get confused.
    ES Q9550 E0 @ 4.0GHz (471x8.5) 1.256v
    TR-Ultra-120-X, 115CFM 120mm fan
    Maximus II Formula @ 1884MHz FSB
    Ballistix DDR2-800 (4x1GB) 1132MHz 5-5-5-5-15 4-55-8-14-11-3-8-5-4-2T
    eVGA GTX 280 @ 702c/1404s/1260m (1.175v)

    Auzentech XPlosion DTS-Interactive Vantage 'X'-6,727
    300GB Velociraptor, PC P&C 750W
    (3)120mm, (2)90mm, (1)250mm case fans in TT Armor

    27.5" LCD/Z-5500-office, 95" 720P projector/7.1ch-living room
    Logitech Driving Force Pro-Microsim Racing Pod

  18. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by jason4207 View Post
    There is no polarity w/ resistors.

    You'll always want to use the middle lead b/c that is the wiper, and gives you the variance. If you just use the outside 2 leads you'll have a fixed value resistor.

    Which of the 2 outside leads you choose will depend on which way you want to turn the pot to decrease resistance/increase voltage. I set mine up so that a clockwise motion results in reduced resistance/higher voltage. Use your DMM. Always set the VR to max resistance before installing it, and it's a good idea to cut the unused lead off, so you don't get confused.
    good advice, thanks bro
    I might have some time to get this done tomorrow, I'm figuring no more than a half hour for the soldering right? (btw I'm adding a switch as well)
    the majority of the time is spent tweaking the voltages right?
    Biochemistry - Washington & Jefferson College

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  19. #469
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    Well I spend a good bit of time getting everything looking good, and I like to try to bend the wires such that there is no 'spring' left in them. If the wire is trying to bend away from the solder point then eventually it might break free. I like the spring force to be directed into the solder point.

    Plus, if you've never done this before you'll want to take extra care to do it right. Plan to have several hours free.
    ES Q9550 E0 @ 4.0GHz (471x8.5) 1.256v
    TR-Ultra-120-X, 115CFM 120mm fan
    Maximus II Formula @ 1884MHz FSB
    Ballistix DDR2-800 (4x1GB) 1132MHz 5-5-5-5-15 4-55-8-14-11-3-8-5-4-2T
    eVGA GTX 280 @ 702c/1404s/1260m (1.175v)

    Auzentech XPlosion DTS-Interactive Vantage 'X'-6,727
    300GB Velociraptor, PC P&C 750W
    (3)120mm, (2)90mm, (1)250mm case fans in TT Armor

    27.5" LCD/Z-5500-office, 95" 720P projector/7.1ch-living room
    Logitech Driving Force Pro-Microsim Racing Pod

  20. #470
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    thanks again man
    I was planning on the few hours anyway just to be sure
    and yeah I really want to make this nice and clean for resale value and my own preference

    also any recommendations on where to get that double sided tape? hardware store?
    Biochemistry - Washington & Jefferson College

    Q9650 E0 @ 3.9 w/1.240V 45C Load 24/7 // Asus Rampage Formula X38
    eVGA 9800GX2 + 8600GTS 512mb // OCZ Flex II 1150MHz 2x2GB
    3x 320GB 7200.10 RAID 0 // Corsair HX 1000W // Dell 2208WFP
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  21. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by nflesher87 View Post
    thanks again man
    I was planning on the few hours anyway just to be sure
    and yeah I really want to make this nice and clean for resale value and my own preference

    also any recommendations on where to get that double sided tape? hardware store?
    Hardware store probably has it. Iirc I got mine at Radio Shack.

    You might want to consider doing this instead of using a switch (click for full size):





    Those are 3-pin fan headers, and I think it looks a lot neater. Just unplug the VR, and you're back at stock
    ES Q9550 E0 @ 4.0GHz (471x8.5) 1.256v
    TR-Ultra-120-X, 115CFM 120mm fan
    Maximus II Formula @ 1884MHz FSB
    Ballistix DDR2-800 (4x1GB) 1132MHz 5-5-5-5-15 4-55-8-14-11-3-8-5-4-2T
    eVGA GTX 280 @ 702c/1404s/1260m (1.175v)

    Auzentech XPlosion DTS-Interactive Vantage 'X'-6,727
    300GB Velociraptor, PC P&C 750W
    (3)120mm, (2)90mm, (1)250mm case fans in TT Armor

    27.5" LCD/Z-5500-office, 95" 720P projector/7.1ch-living room
    Logitech Driving Force Pro-Microsim Racing Pod

  22. #472
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    I will be getting into it this weekend and cant wait. I need to get some double sided tape though to 'strap' these things down.

    I want to see 900 core w/1.3v.

    Also, I have no idea what type of memory I have (label off the chips ) so I may not vmod the memory.

    This is how I plan to do it..

    1. Voltage reading molex connector.
    2. setup pots at max resistence and for the direction I want to turn it...
    3. solder pot
    4. Have fun!
    Last edited by jas420221; 04-08-2008 at 08:02 AM.

  23. #473
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    how do you guys get the wires to solder on so cleanly?
    is the best way to drip solder onto the end of the cables, then attach it to the solder point by heating up the wire ?
    i cant seem to solder to these tiny little pieces...
    MB: Asus 'Maximus Rampage' (Rev 1.03g) (Stock Cooling Removed; Thermalright Replacements: HR-05 SLI/IFX, HR-09 U T2, HR-09 S T2)
    CPU: Intel Q6600 'G0' w/VID: 1.2625v @ 3720MHz (465x8) Fully-Lapped to 2500 Grit. vCore @ 1.3625 (Everest) w/ vDroop Mod & MX-2
    Mem: Corsair Dominator 8500 (2x1 GB) @ 5-5-5-15 DDR2-1116
    PS: Corsair HX620 w/Fan Mod (Yate-Loon 'Medium', w/Added Potentiometer)
    Vid: BFG GeForce 8800 GTS 512 (G92) & 8600 GT 512 (G84); BOTH Volt-Modded, Hard-Clocked, Cooler-Modded & BIOS-Tweaked
    Snd: Creative Labs X-Fi Elite Pro w/ Logitech Z-5500 (Optical-In Used)
    Cool: Thermalight Ultra-120-X Fully-Lapped, to 2500 Grit w/ 1x 'Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000 RPM,' overvolted
    Case: Coolermaster CM-690 w/ Major Airflow Mods; Yate Loon 'Medium' 140mm's x 4 (Top, Bottom, Side); 1 Scythe Slipstream (Front); 1 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 RPM (Rear); Sound-Dampening Foam
    Fan CTRLr: Sunbeamtech 'Rheobus Extreme' (w/Minor Superficial Mods)
    HDD: 4x500GB Internal SATA Samsung's (HD501LJ)

    Tmps @ Idle: GPU1: 52C; GPU2: 36C; NB: 39C; SB: 30C; CPU_1-4: '27C' <-- (1-4 Averaged)
    Tmps @ Load:GPU1: 76C; GPU2: __C; NB: 44C; SB: 30C; CPU_1-4: '50C' <-- (1-4 Averaged)

    My RIG: #1 , #2 , #3


  24. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericab View Post
    how do you guys get the wires to solder on so cleanly?
    is the best way to drip solder onto the end of the cables, then attach it to the solder point by heating up the wire ?
    i cant seem to solder to these tiny little pieces...
    Thats how I planned on doing it!! I read that from a soldering website somewhere...

  25. #475
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    You never want to drip solder. It'll just bead up if you do that. For the solder to work all metal that is to have solder applied also has to heat up to a good temp. First, I put a little dab of solder on my iron, and put it on the location to be soldered. On most points it only takes a couple seconds for it to bond good. On some GND points you may have to hold it a lot longer before the solder will melt. Then, I do the same for the tip of the wire. Finally, I get my wire into place, and solder the wire to the point.

    You'll want to keep your soldering iron tip clean & tinned. I use this little round container (Solder Tip Cleaner) I got from Radio Shack to help keep the tip clean & tinned, but I also use a wet sponge to wipe off all the residue right before I get to work.

    Having a 'helping hands" (a small device w/ alligator clips to hold your work) is invaluable for a lot of solder work b/c it's hard to hold everything, and balance the iron in your hand.

    You'll also want to work under a magnifying glass w/ plenty of light. Those solder points are tiny!


    **WARNING!**
    It takes practice. If this is your first attempt at soldering I can almost guarantee you'll kill the card. Practice on an old piece of hardware first.
    ES Q9550 E0 @ 4.0GHz (471x8.5) 1.256v
    TR-Ultra-120-X, 115CFM 120mm fan
    Maximus II Formula @ 1884MHz FSB
    Ballistix DDR2-800 (4x1GB) 1132MHz 5-5-5-5-15 4-55-8-14-11-3-8-5-4-2T
    eVGA GTX 280 @ 702c/1404s/1260m (1.175v)

    Auzentech XPlosion DTS-Interactive Vantage 'X'-6,727
    300GB Velociraptor, PC P&C 750W
    (3)120mm, (2)90mm, (1)250mm case fans in TT Armor

    27.5" LCD/Z-5500-office, 95" 720P projector/7.1ch-living room
    Logitech Driving Force Pro-Microsim Racing Pod

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