Taking TJ07 to the next level (3 Loops)

[daedality]

I'm revising my entire loop. Everything is done except for getting the smaller res and a few other small things. Case looks great, black interior -- lined almost entirely with sound dampening material. All wires hidden to the full extent that I can without soldering the motherboard.

Previously had a loop of Pump>GPU>SB>NB>CPU>Mosfet>Mosfet>220 Rad>Y(with fillport)>Bay res>Pump>220 Rad>320 Rad>Pump

It was ridiculous. Got good flow, and good temps, but I've decided I'm not satisfied yet.



How does XtremeSystems feel about this?

[CodeNinja]

Thats similar to an idea I was kicking around, only with an MCR320 at the top. Still don't know if 3 loops are needed, though.

The only thing I'm a little iffy on is if the MCR220/320 would fit at the top, with fans, and still clear the motherboard / Mosfet coolers. I know people are using Black Ice units up there, but they are a wee bit thinner than the MCRs.

If you do get the MCR in the top, let me know! I don't have a case to play with at the moment.

[3lfk1ng]

no mem or hdd cooling?

[daedality]

Thats similar to an idea I was kicking around, only with an MCR320 at the top. Still don't know if 3 loops are needed, though.

The only thing I'm a little iffy on is if the MCR220/320 would fit at the top, with fans, and still clear the motherboard / Mosfet coolers. I know people are using Black Ice units up there, but they are a wee bit thinner than the MCRs.

If you do get the MCR in the top, let me know! I don't have a case to play with at the moment.

Yeah, I fit it in the top. It took a lot... a lot of working with it. I had to dremel through a lot of the metal at the top of the rad to get a few extra mm's to fit it up there, along with severely modding the fans so that they are thinner and detatched at the center, going a little bit closer to the fins of the rad. In the process, I have a hole in my rad. If I can fix it with epoxy, that'd be awesome. Otherwise, I'll see if I can't solder it pretty good.

Also, FYI: it would be MUCH easier if you didn't have a top mosfet block. I clear the motherboard quite easily with very little modding. What I really had to heavily work my way around was the fan blades hitting the block.

In the end, it all comes down to whether or not you'll do whatever physically possible to make it fit. Given the chance to go back in time, I might have simply bought the black ice rad. Or opened up the hole hole at the top of the case by a lot to move it up (In which case I would have made it longer and fit a triple rad)

Hope that helps.

[daedality]

no mem or hdd cooling?

Some day. Given the money, time, and lack of anything else to do. My RAM has nice heatsinks on them, along with my own air cooling solution (Couple of nice small fans velcro'd onto them).

As for the hard drive, I again have an air cooling solution. There's just so much I could do to my build to attain actual performance boosts, and I'll get around to watercooling the hdd and mem when I'm out of anything to do more than purely aesthetics.

[CodeNinja]

In the end, it all comes down to whether or not you'll do whatever physically possible to make it fit. Given the chance to go back in time, I might have simply bought the black ice rad. Or opened up the hole hole at the top of the case by a lot to move it up (In which case I would have made it longer and fit a triple rad)

Hope that helps.

How close is the tolerance? Would it fit if, say, you removed the original meshing and went with an AC Ryan grill? That should move it up the thickness of the case aluminium, at least.

I'm following this very closely!

[smee]

Hey, I'll be watching this one!! I think this'll be a good one....

One suggestion though, don't use a Y piece to for the fillport at the top, use a T line. If you have a Y, then you'll be pushing coolant into the fillport, and thats a no no, you'll also be splitting the pressure.
Us a T line.

[NaeKuh]

that third D5 in the rear will block your psu.

you need to use DDC's.

Im trying to plan out a 4 pump build and i already considered D5's. Its too hard to cramp 3 inside. with 3 radiators.

[daedality]

How close is the tolerance? Would it fit if, say, you removed the original meshing and went with an AC Ryan grill? That should move it up the thickness of the case aluminium, at least.

I'm following this very closely!

Well, everything I just said was basically assuming that you've removed the mesh at the top. However, that alone would not necessarily be enough to mount it. I'm sure there are a few motherboards which have something sticking out at the far top that would block it. Without the mosfet block at the top, it should be able to simply mount with an AC Ryan grill and thinning your fans (taking a dremel and shaving off 1-2mm on both sides). What I had to do, however, was take the fan on the far left and chop off the supports for the fan itself, dremel up the fan frame to fit like a key, and gain a few mm of space for the blades by roughly gluing the fan itself to the bulk of the radiator. As for the fan on the right, it fits fine without all that. I may shave it off a little bit with my dremel to gain a little bit more clearance (it sits on the cpu fan port).

ALSO: I had to dremel up my rad. I bent the ends at the top in just a little bit and I'll cut out an AC Ryan panel to fit it once I order the panel. The rad is wider than the hole at the top by a few millimeters, so I basically stepped it. Much like you'd step CPU blocks to fit better.

In the process, I opened up a hole in the rad itself. Just patched it up, going to test it and make sure it's for good.

Hey, I'll be watching this one!! I think this'll be a good one....

One suggestion though, don't use a Y piece to for the fillport at the top, use a T line. If you have a Y, then you'll be pushing coolant into the fillport, and thats a no no, you'll also be splitting the pressure.
Us a T line.

Well, I wouldn't be pushing fluid into the fillport because it's aligned on the inlet side of the pump.

As for the pressure: that's a concern. From what I understand, however, T lines neutralize the negative pressure of the pump when placed directly at the inlet, meaning the pump is running entirely on positive pressure, resulting in a higher flow rate. I'm hoping the concept is the same for Y fittings. I'll talk to him.

that third D5 in the rear will block your psu.

you need to use DDC's.

Im trying to plan out a 4 pump build and i already considered D5's. Its too hard to cramp 3 inside. with 3 radiators.

Actually, I disagree entirely. This rig is already built except for the third pump for the NB and Mosfets. That won't be too much trouble mounting.

However, the bottom of the case was one of the absolute hardest orientation to accomplish correctly (aside from maybe my rad at the top). That being said, the pumps that are mounted at the bottom were extremely easy to mount. They have plenty of space to spare, it's a really easy fit. The rads, as well, fit very easily. What was difficult about it was putting the tubing in there with no kinks, and not having the radiators pop out of the case to the point where you are struggling to put the front panel on. I have them somewhat hard-mounted now, so they're in there nice. Absolutely no kinks in tubing. And now that I've separated it all into 3 loops, I eliminated a lot of the mess down there and had room to put in more fans. Both rads are at a full push/pull.

{_PSU_} {_Radiator_} {Pump}
{Pump} . { ____Radiator____ }

Just thought I'd illustrate from an aerial view. It's not easy to see in my 2-dimensional paint drawing.

[qujck]

i know everybody wants to mount the rads inside their cases but why diddn't you use one of the best rads outside??

[spider_d]

Magicool 240 slim fits in the top without any modification. It is 120mm wide, so the same as the fans. Just an idea.

[smee]

Well, I wouldn't be pushing fluid into the fillport because it's aligned on the inlet side of the pump.

As for the pressure: that's a concern. From what I understand, however, T lines neutralize the negative pressure of the pump when placed directly at the inlet, meaning the pump is running entirely on positive pressure, resulting in a higher flow rate. I'm hoping the concept is the same for Y fittings. I'll talk to him.

Oh duh! I didn't realize that you were pulling the coolant from the rad, not pushing the coolant through the rad....
You should be fine, and you won't be splitting the pressure, your also right about the T and Y lines taking the negative pressures

This is going to be one awesome set up!!

[daedality]

i know everybody wants to mount the rads inside their cases but why diddn't you use one of the best rads outside??

Reasons:

1. Flow. The pressure drop on the Mora 2 Pro is huge, from what I know.
2. Aesthetics.
3. Level of difficulty. Where's the fun in slapping a radiator on the outside?

Besides. I bet I could still fit another radiator into the case if I had the time and the brainpower. xP Who's to say I won't mount more rads on the outside of my case when I run out of room on the inside & grab some iwakis to compensate for the pressure?




I wouldn't count on that happening, however.

Magicool 240 slim fits in the top without any modification. It is 120mm wide, so the same as the fans. Just an idea.

This, too, is a viable option alongside a Black Ice radiator for those who do not want to go through hassle. Too late for me, though. :P: I'm happy with it. Swiftech makes the second best radiators for my purposes and for the price range, right behind Thermochill.

Oh duh! I didn't realize that you were pulling the coolant from the rad, not pushing the coolant through the rad....
You should be fine, and you won't be splitting the pressure, your also right about the T and Y lines taking the negative pressures

This is going to be one awesome set up!!

Haha, yeah. Hopefully it works just as well in practice as it does in theory.


I'm ordering parts in about ten minutes. Tygon Tubing to replace all my old tubing, the Micro Res, the third pump, AC Ryan mesh grill for the radiator at the top, the C-01 DVD Bezel for DVD drive stealthing, a couple more cables I need. All that's left is setting up the top half of the loop, hiding a few more wires, soldering a few more wires, and 1 or two very minor and mostly non-performance based tasks.

[qujck]

you have to decide if you wants to have high flow or high performance.
high flow doesn't mean high performance.
But this must everybody know for himself.

i like the big rad and with a MCP655 pump there's enough flow rate to have a nice whirlpool in the water reservoir.

[daedality]

you have to decide if you wants to have high flow or high performance.
high flow doesn't mean high performance.
But this must everybody know for himself.

i like the big rad and with a MCP655 pump there's enough flow rate to have a nice whirlpool in the water reservoir.

Not necessarily. There's been a few tests that I've read which suggested that flow rate had a direct correlation with heat dissipation. If your water isn't moving, it defeats the purpose. I'm sure at a certain point, performance stops getting a gain from flow. Why do you think Martin spends so much of his time doing flow rate tests?

[disruptfam]

pics?

[daedality]

pics?

In a couple days. It really does look amazing, but it's not so much different from anything you've seen right now. No tubing or anything hooked up. Once the final parts come, I'll be all ready. Maybe I'll run upstairs and grab my camera real quick.

[starlon]

Do it

[Razor_Blade]

Do it or the kitten dies!! LOL, JK!

[daedality]

K, so I decided to take a few pics.

First off, old loop, leak testing:


Now, new pics. Not much of a change, but. Every wire is to be hidden. There's a couple wires, like the front panel wires and USB wires that you can see in the following pics, but ignore it. They're to be hidden entirely.





Here, you can see where my hard drive is to be mounted. Under it, is where the pump is to be mounted. ALSO, you can see my tubing hole. Triple whammy!








Tubing hole!




Hopefully, come Wednesday or Thursday, these posts will be less frequent. Not that I don't enjoy this, but the only reason I have so much time for this is that I've been home sick for the past 3 days... I doubt I'll be fine by tomorrow, maybe Thursday. In time for parts. Do not fear, however! I assure you content will never lack!

[disruptfam]

looking good

Try to keep the pic's a lil smaller

[Kilyin]

What'd you use to mount those fans over the RAM? I have the same board and I'm looking to do something like that, so far all I've come up with are zip ties and d-tek mounting screws.

[Pedalmonkey]

and try turning the flash off, natrual light will give you WAY better pics

[disruptfam]

and try turning the flash off, natrual light will give you WAY better pics

yes indeed

[daedality]

What'd you use to mount those fans over the RAM? I have the same board and I'm looking to do something like that, so far all I've come up with are zip ties and d-tek mounting screws.

Those are some 70(or so)mm fans held together by zip ties. They're mounted using... drumroll... velcro! One of my favorite things to use for mounting. Strong, cheap, extremely easy, extremely clean, and not permanent.

and try turning the flash off, natrual light will give you WAY better pics

yes indeed

Night time. No natural light. Plus, I can't stand the discolored pixelation that occurs in JPG/JPEG files when taken with a digital camera with the flash off. Of course, in the sunlight, that's not an issue. You can see, the first picture has the flash off... and it just bugs me.