**Official ABIT IP-35 Pro Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

[GFORCE100]

so 16.09 bios do you guys recommend it? If it fixes some of the vdroop with quads and is stable like the 16.04 I am flashing Just need some of you that are running it already to confirm so...

For whatever reason every BIOS after 16 B03 reports higher CPU temps for no good reason whatsoever. Perhaps they do fix some things but Abit doesn't seem to be in a hurry or willing to state what the fixes are.

[chawks2]

Gents, thanks to A-a-R, it appears the GTL reference voltage (63%) may have been the culprit. I was convinced it had to do something with my RAM being overvolted, but the jury is still not out - 10 hours is pretty solid tho. Means I have more room to oc, AND this is all on AIR!!!

[Cpl Ledanek]

@Ace...boards on the way. Got a question about the MX-5.
The mom & pop store I go buy my little stuff, no longer carries Artic Cooler thermal compounds; only Artic Silver. Feeling bad that I haven't patronized my local Mom & Pop store I still went ahead and bought
- ArcticClean #1 Thermal Material Remover and # 2 Thermal Surface Purifier.
- Arctic Silver Ceramique 2.5 grams.
can I still use this for your EXAMPLE OF LACK OF CONTACT WITH IP35 PRO PWM HEATSINK post?
Then hopefully Sat, I can stop by HomeDepot for your 3/4" length bolts or 1/2" bolts
I'm just scratching my head about the two 40mm fans

Would removing them and replacing them with, lets say a Thermaltake CL-C0034 Copper Fan&Heatsinks be better
How about Thermalright HR-05/or HR-05-SLI

Or is this too much for someone not OC'ing?

[nvteleskier]

Is it possible to swap motherboards, deleting all of the Nvidia drivers and changing to Abit drivers with the IP35 install?

I'd like to swap out the 680i but don't want to do a format and install. I am waiting for a 780i upgrade from EVGA, but I don't envision ever doing SLI.

There is an amazing number of people on this forum interested or using this board, I was considering the MARS,
but this thread has changed my mind.

Thanks

[Pntgrd]

Is it possible to swap motherboards, deleting all of the Nvidia drivers and changing to Abit drivers with the IP35 install?

I'd like to swap out the 680i but don't want to do a format and install. I am waiting for a 780i upgrade from EVGA, but I don't envision ever doing SLI.

There is an amazing number of people on this forum interested or using this board, I was considering the MARS,
but this thread has changed my mind.

Thanks

I have done this many times without a hickup. Just do like you say and delete all the chipset drivers, shut down, change boards and install new drivers. I know many will say this is bad but it has always worked for me. My IP35 system was and Asus A8N SLI with an Opty 165 when I put it to sleep and it woke up as the system in my sig. One other thing I always do when doing this is run a System Repair from the XP disk, the 2nd one in the menu. The XP install I run is over 3 years old and still runs fine, but I do maintain in regularly.

[HaTaX]

I have done this many times without a hickup. Just do like you say and delete all the chipset drivers, shut down, change boards and install new drivers. I know many will say this is bad but it has always worked for me. My IP35 system was and Asus A8N SLI with an Opty 165 when I put it to sleep and it woke up as the system in my sig. One other thing I always do when doing this is run a System Repair from the XP disk, the 2nd one in the menu. The XP install I run is over 3 years old and still runs fine, but I do maintain in regularly.

When you do a repair from the XP disk you are wiping out settings and such that you had previously had. Not a big deal as the data and applications are still there and can be recovered if you do the file and settings transfer wizard before you do the repair. But another option you could look into is using a program on the XP cd called Sysprep. If you google that name and something like motherboard replacement you'll get lots of guides pointing out how to use it to change chipset or hard drive controllers or entire mobos. It's really the hard drive controller drivers that will give you those 7E blue screens after moving to a new motherboard.

[Pntgrd]

When you do a repair from the XP disk you are wiping out settings and such that you had previously had. Not a big deal as the data and applications are still there and can be recovered if you do the file and settings transfer wizard before you do the repair. But another option you could look into is using a program on the XP cd called Sysprep. If you google that name and something like motherboard replacement you'll get lots of guides pointing out how to use it to change chipset or hard drive controllers or entire mobos. It's really the hard drive controller drivers that will give you those 7E blue screens after moving to a new motherboard.

I think this is in fact what gets used. It is an option that you see after you choose "install". When it sees that there is an existiong Windows Install, it asks if you want to repair it. It then deletes a bunch of system files and reinstalls them, but leaves all reg settings and program settings alone. It is a neat feature that as of yet i have not found in Vista

[Nano2k]

Is it possible to swap motherboards, deleting all of the Nvidia drivers and changing to Abit drivers with the IP35 install?

From my personal experience you can switch from Nvidia chipsets to Intel chipsets without a problem and that without previously uninstalling any drivers at all. Moving from Intel to Nvidia seems to be a problem though... tend to get blue screens at startup.

Just my 2 cents...

[Ace-a-Rue]

@Ace...boards on the way. Got a question about the MX-5.

are you asking about the Mazda car

you must mean MX2?...right?

The mom & pop store I go buy my little stuff, no longer carries Artic Cooler thermal compounds; only Artic Silver. Feeling bad that I haven't patronized my local Mom & Pop store I still went ahead and bought
- ArcticClean #1 Thermal Material Remover and # 2 Thermal Surface Purifier.
- Arctic Silver Ceramique 2.5 grams.
can I still use this for your EXAMPLE OF LACK OF CONTACT WITH IP35 PRO PWM HEATSINK post?

absolutely!...i used AS Ceramique on my PWM section....i was and still am happy with the results.

Then hopefully Sat, I can stop by HomeDepot for your 3/4" length bolts or 1/2" bolts
I'm just scratching my head about the two 40mm fans

what about the 40mm fans?...are you wanting to know where or how to place them?..if so, just go back to the page where i show the heatpipe mod and slide down a few posts for some pictures showing placement of the fans.

Would removing them and replacing them with, lets say a Thermaltake CL-C0034 Copper Fan&Heatsinks be better
How about Thermalright HR-05/or HR-05-SLI

Or is this too much for someone not OC'ing?

the SLI version for the HR-05 will not work...not sure about the thermaltake heatsink...i was trying to use what was installed on the board to avoid higher cost outlay...the heatpipe system that abit is using is not bad, just inadequate with the TIM material it used and the HP not level causing the irregular surface contact with their TIM.

[jimmsch]

OK...For some reason I cannot seem to be able to get Orthos blend stable at 500x8 with even up to 1.35vcore. The RAM is rated to run DDR2 1066 @ 2.3v. It passes memtest at 2.1v DDR2 1000 speed. The CPU runs small FFTs for over four hours at 500x8, but no joy on blend test.

My best possible 24/7 setings are as follows.



Ship/Packaging Date: Jan. 04, 2008
Voltage(s) (Stock/OC'ed): 1.112 (VID)/1.355 (set in BIOS)
Frequency(ies) (OC'ed): 456x9 (4.1ghz)
Motherboard: Abit IP35 Pro
BIOS: 16.B09
Video Card: El Cheapo X300 PCI-E
__________________________________________________ __
FSB = 456x9(4.1ghz)
RAM = 1:1
Vcore = 1.355(set in BIOS) (CPU-Z idle = 1.34------CPU-Z load = 1.31)
DDR2: 2.200v
CPU VVT: 1.10v
MCH = 1.33v
ICH = 1.05v
ICHIO = 1.50v
DDR2 REF = 0%
CPU GTLREF = 63% (for all)
__________________________________________________
*Extra* Memory(ies) (Timing(s)): 2GB OCZ SLI ready PC2-8500 5-5-5-15 running 1:1
*Extra* Memory(ies) (Voltage(s)): 2.2v
*Extra* Third Party Cooling Solution: NY winter (Zalman 9700)
*Extra* Paste(s)/Compound(s)/Other(s): Ceramique
*Extra* NB/SB/Mosfets bolt modded using Ceramique
*Extra* PSU Ultra XVS 750watt Modular

Ambient temps in my garage were a balmy 12C...open case w/ 120mm blowing on NB. Core Temp reads 36C (core 1) 32C (core 0) idle...as always, this NEVER changes. Load was 52 (core 1) 56 (core 0). Everyst reads the CPU temp as 26C under load

I think this will even be OK if I bring it into the house. I do not think temps will be too much of an issue with a TJmax of 105C.

The only difference in the setup from this pic is I swapped the stock cooler out for a Zalman 9700.



I have now taken out the OCZ RAM and installed some Dominators PC2 8500's to try for that evasive blend stable 500x8. I will update if this gets me a few hours of blend stability.

EDIT: OK that failed after only 2 minutes on blend test. I guess this combo just doesn't like 500fsb. Next up is the Dominators and E8400 on a GA X38 DQ6.

[Cpl Ledanek]

are you asking about the Mazda car

you must mean MX2?...right?
...no wonder he looked at me funny


absolutely!...i used AS Ceramique on my PWM section....i was and still am happy with the results.
Confession: I don't know what PWM means
Is that on the CPU? Also on the mosfet...the black thermal, someone posted you could reuse it? Is that certifiable?

what about the 40mm fans?...are you wanting to know where or how to place them?..if so, just go back to the page where i show the heatpipe mod and slide down a few posts for some pictures showing placement of the fans.

Your pics are here at post # 759

the SLI version for the HR-05 will not work...not sure about the thermaltake heatsink...i was trying to use what was installed on the board to avoid higher cost outlay...the heatpipe system that abit is using is not bad, just inadequate with the TIM material it used and the HP not level causing the irregular surface contact with their TIM.

Hopefully get to assemble on weekend

[Ace-a-Rue]

Gents, thanks to A-a-R, it appears the GTL reference voltage (63%) may have been the culprit. I was convinced it had to do something with my RAM being overvolted, but the jury is still not out - 10 hours is pretty solid tho. Means I have more room to oc, AND this is all on AIR!!!

GREAT!...which bios are you using?

[dstedman]

Hi - I've looked through most of this thread & am excited to start the build below. I have all of the stuff and intend to get it at least running this weekend. A couple of questions:

What BIOS version should I use? Seems to be a few betas on the main page - are they OK? Or should I stick with 14 (which might be what is already on the board)?

So is the bolt mod mandatory? Or can I just take off the heat pipes, clean them up, and apply AS5? I don't think I have any non-conductive stuff - do I really need it?

How much of a negative impact is 8 GB of RAM going to have on my overclock? I'm going to start the build with just one stick, but would really love to get all 8 GB running at 400 X 9 = 3.6 ghz. Impossible?

That's it. Upgrading from a AMD 3800+ 939 running at 2.5 ghz - excited to see how much better a quad can be!

thanks for your input -
dan