Water cooling the Asus Maximus SE X38

[Talonman]

Thanks Pete, I am a happy camper. Foward progress is going to be made...

Way to go Talonman, looks like the ball is starting to roll.

Now we demand pics!!! We Want Pics! We Want Pics! We Want Pics!

No problem on the pictures buddy!! I like doing that.

OK, Imageshack responding again.

Pic to show the EK and stock backplate:
It lines up just right. Good job Eddy.



One shot from above:



Bottom of the blocks.
FYI - That's just the paper towl's reflection in the lower corner. I can assure you all I see is a shiny base.



Side shot:
Lot's of Copper...



I think this is going to work well, my autimin is noticeably cooler...

[CCC]

what did you do to the stock nb backplate to make it work with the EK block??

[Xilikon]

Glad to hear you got them finally

Party time indeed

[Talonman]

Glad to hear you got them finally

Party time indeed

Thanks Xilikon....

what did you do to the stock nb backplate to make it work with the EK block??

One of my wild friends stopped by....

I am getting back to work now...

I keep moving the tubing around, trying to be border-line harsh with it. Not a drop leaked so far...

BTW - The Fusion has already been leak tested once and passed. I cleaned the surface and am protecting it now. Normally I wouldn't leak test with a block wrapped in plastic, just for the record.
Neither hose or clamps have been removed from the first test with the D-Tek. The tubing with the bend has already been held in that position for days by the 2 zip ties. When I go to mount it on the mobo, it should be well adjusted to the idea that this is the way I just normally bend! I didn't want it kicking like a mule during the block install.

In the EK instructions it states, "This product is intended for expert users", so if I get this installed correctly, do I get official expert status?

[Exahertz]

what did you do to the stock nb backplate to make it work with the EK block??

I knocked out those inserts by hammering them into a peice of wood, then i had to reem out the holes a little so the mounting hardware from EK would slide through it. just be sure to put a plastic washer inbetween the backplate and the mobo.

[Scooby]

Anyone know where I can get a flow meter that fits 1/2"ID tubes? I have been looking around and the ones I did fine were all out of stock.

Thanks.

[dude_500]

What are you using on your mosfets talonman? Congrats on the long-awaited block

[Talonman]

Thanks dude, take a look at page 8 in this thread for how my MOSFET situaction worked out.

Preping the stock backplate wen't well. I gave the one corner a small tap after taking the rubber washers off, and it suffered a small impact wound. I then changed my plan to using beefy side cutters and snipped the other side of the rivet off as close to the backplate as I could. It gives you a good spot for the drill bit to spin on.

I drilled from the side that makes contact with the motherboard, into the backplate with a block of wood behind it. I used that drill bit in the picture, but I don't know what size it is. The rivet just pops out the other side like butter during the process.

I did a newbie mistake and had my clamps in the way for the bolts to go through the EK block. I loosened them and made an adjustment withought spilling a drop.

The longer bolt in the EK block is one of the 4 that come standard with the NB block. I also ordered the a general hardware mounting kit from EK too, and it's the shorter one.
I will be using the 4 longer supplied bolts when mounting the block.


Here is the back still looking like new!
I checked all 4 holes to insure the bolt would fit.

[ElEctric_EyE]

I like the looks of those thick blocks. They look 2x as thick as MCW30's! Does the CPU block come with a backing plate? Are you WC'ing just the CPU & NB? Hope it works well for you. When are you gonna have some #'s for us?

[Talonman]

lol.... The D-Tek CPU Block does not come standard with a backplate. I wish it did... The D-Tek Pro-mount kit, I have in route to my house will.

For a while I think it will only be CPU and the NB. It will be nice to get some baseline numbers for me, before I add 1 GPU into my loop. Then I will be able to see how much my temps move. Hopefully none.

My GPU purchase will be within the next month. nVidia 8600GT until then, that I will harvest out of my Pavilion.

I think the thick Coper Rocks too! Looks like the D-Tek's thickness, and that's a winner...
And the foot print of the coper base is about the size of the green perf board that the IHS rests on. I like the extra size myself, and view that as a positive. Not too big, but not too little either.

[Talonman]

I am considering preparing the base of the blocks as if I was using Arctic Silver Ceramic, even though it's going to be MX-2.

You know how on the AS site when using Ceramic, they say you can apply some to the base of the block, then buff it back off with a lint free cloth. The MX-2 sight has no such recomendation.

I was thinking that Arctic Silver Ceramic, and MX-2 are similar products. What would be good for one, might be good for the other?

What do you guy's think about treating the base of the blocks to some MX-2, then buffing it back off?

One more picture with the moded stock backplate on. I intend to put the mobo between the black and green washers.
There are metal washers next to the nuts on all 4 bolts. You cant see them in the picture.
Looks to me like it should work well?

[Talonman]

Although you might think you don't want to use the thick black stock washers, when you attach the backplate to the mobo, you can see why ASUS thought a little extra height wasen't a bad thing here. There are some small components located under the backplate, that I'm guessing you wouldn't want to put excessive pressure on.
Note: I didn't have the nuts tightened up yet in this picture. The rubber washers all snugged up nice to the mobo after they were.




Here is the bolts supplied by EK with the block. I couldn't be more pleased with the fit.
The small metal washers are in there too.

[Nate P.]

Looks really good, as always EK = quality.

[Scooby]

I'm using MX-2 on both the NB and SB and didn't have to do any apply/buff-off stuff and I think you wouldn't have too either. My contacts are solid, during load and stress testing I can fell the heat being tranfered through my Thermalright HR-05s and with the fans dialed in it has been very good.

What GPU are you going for?

[Talonman]

I want a nVidia 9800GTX.

On the AS Céramique instructions, look on page 3 "Heatsink Preparation" and "Tinting Heatsink with Céramique:".
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appi..._quad_wcap.pdf

The stuff I'm proposing to tint the blocks with would be MX-2, insted of using the AS Céramique.
This sentence is what catches my attention: "The discoloring you see is Céramique inside the microscopic valleys of the heatsink".
I was thinking mabey some MX-2 in the microscopic valleys of the blocks faces, might be a good thing?
I would still apply the MX-2 to the NB chip, when I go to install the block.

Update: I just started a thread about it to fish for more responces on the matter.

Leak test is comming up on about 21 hours. Still nothing but drysville to report.

The NB block appears to hold water.

[Darkatom]

Its good to see you finally got your order in . I hope you enjoy putting it all together.

[Talonman]

I am for sure! Thanks Darkatom.

[Exahertz]

Hey Talonman, When do you expect you'll be to the point that your loading an OS?

[Talonman]

Soon ... I know I will be needing some help in that phase too.

D-Tek Pro mount in hand... letting it meet the FuZion right now.

[Talonman]

OK, The Pro mount has been installed. Leak test under way...

My new supplies....




Note my tornado in the tube. With time it did go away.

[Exahertz]

looks good! the Fuzion almost look like its lapped in the second pic. so i take it you have already added the quad nozzel kit and everything. did the nozzel kit with the o-ring thats included add any bow to the Fuzion?

[Talonman]

Yes, the Quad split nozzle is installed. I can't say for sure on if the gasket added any more to the stock bowing? It isn't a real thick gasket...

I did check out my D-Tek cooling pins while I had the block apart. Still looks like new.

[Talonman]

I have both blocks secured to the mobo, with some MX-2 used as my TIM.
On the Pro-Mount, the mounting bolts stop themselves from being overtightened.



The big slab of unapoligetic copper, is now in direct contact with my NB's IHS! Cool baby cool...




Lot's of room for R68 coils around the CPU, to catch some good air:


The backplates are looking good too:

[Talonman]

The excitement is building. The water blocks both seem to be doing fine...

Getting real close to hitting this thing with power for the first time.

I took my quick-disconnects off, and drained that section of the loop that goes to the mobo.
Ran the hose out the back of the tray. I did make sure when it went through the back, it was the way it naturally wanted to go. I didn't want any funky 'twisting' pressure on the fittings of the blocks.
Cutt two fresh ends off of the tubing out the back, and made them the same length. Slid the disconnects back on, and I was off and running again...

One thing I just realized how handy it is to burp my blocks running the Keg. I can pick my tray up and spin it around, before I ever even slide it into the back of my case.
I also was able to keep my blocks the lowest thing in the loop, during the burping stage the entire time.
I will know for 100% sure, when I slide the mobo in, there will be no large air pockets in my blocks.

[Talonman]

I slid my rig, back into it's home. It fit just like it remembered.

Trying to figure out what slot I won't be using on the Maximus, to install my external power outlet...

I am currently thinking the white mini slot directly under the word Maximus.
Mabey the very bottom one to hide the wire better?

Any opinions?