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Thread: Martin's custom "Thin Line" waterblock worklog

  1. #51
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    I think what everyone else is talking about is the 90° nature of your pins. Ie. from this pic, it looks like each corner of each pin is 90°.

    http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock8.jpg

    Blocks like the Apogee GT/X, have angles where (pulling numbers out of my rear) two sides are 135° and the other two are 45°

    http://swiftnets.com/assets/images/p...ogee-gt-bp.jpg
    http://swiftnets.com/assets/images/p...stallation.gif

    I M$ painted up a couple pics to show the difference. Yes, they're horribly cr@ppy pics.

    Whether or not it makes a difference we'll have to wait until the test results come in. Jaydee (I think) made his block with your method and it performed very well.
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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by THE JEW (RaVeN) View Post
    I think what everyone else is talking about is the 90° nature of your pins. Ie. from this pic, it looks like each corner of each pin is 90°.

    http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock8.jpg

    Blocks like the Apogee GT/X, have angles where (pulling numbers out of my rear) two sides are 135° and the other two are 45°

    http://swiftnets.com/assets/images/p...ogee-gt-bp.jpg
    http://swiftnets.com/assets/images/p...stallation.gif

    I M$ painted up a couple pics to show the difference. Yes, they're horribly cr@ppy pics.

    Whether or not it makes a difference we'll have to wait until the test results come in. Jaydee (I think) made his block with your method and it performed very well.
    Ah, ok, so just a diamond pin style that's more striaight up and down diamonds. Thanks, if this base doesn't work out, I'll have to give that a try.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    Thanks!Had to hang up my clubs too. Maybe I can machine myself a ball mark remover for the heck of it. Not that I need to use one much with my bogey handicap, but when I do...it would be in style!!
    why stop there, mill yourself a putter

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Linus@ncix View Post
    Looks fantastic Martin. I'll take 50. Can you deliver within the next week or so?



    Oh boy..not at my part time and manual milling speeds...lol

    BTW, leak testing in progress, so far so good, but I can tell just by bleeding that it's fairly restrictive with the current nozzles. I should pressure drop test it, but I wanted it installed and run first...

  5. #55
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    pics please
    Quote Originally Posted by skinnee View Post
    No, I think he had a date tonight...

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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by disruptfam View Post
    pics please
    Ok.....

    Here are some updated pics:

    First is a picture of my hold down plate angle point. One of the thing I think happens alot in poor mounts is inconsistent pull on the four bolts. I think the stepdown base concept is great, but I think it also has more variability in mounts because of the smaller footprint and ease in putting more force on one side of the block. Mounting the hold down plate to put all it's force in the very center of the block (in this case all force is on the center barb) and providing a means to allow flex like this washer should really help with this. Anyhow, this is just a crude version, but it works really well. I could easily pull one side down over a 1/4" more than the other and no torsion is applied to the block. Alot of heatsink hold downs have gone to a single point force setup, waterblocks should too..



    Next up, had to see the nozzle/accelerator jets in action...


    And here is the block installed, quick and dirty hold down plate until I figure out something cooler, but it works.


    In operation:


    Hard to tell this early, but it's giving my bowed and nozzled Fuzion a run for it's money. Within a couple of degrees, hard to tell if I'll gain that in settlemeant/curing or possibly a remount. But I do know I gained about 4-5C from bowing and adding a nozzle to my fuzion so the block is already performing better than my fuzion when stock. Not too bad for my first home brew attempt..

    I'll run the numbers in a couple of days, the CLP should be cured pretty well and bubbles out of the lines by then.

  7. #57
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    WOW, Just Wow, very imperssive all the way thru. Must resisit urge to go by crazy tools. It's a good think I only understand a little about how you made that. Best of luck with it, interested to see more.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    Ok.....

    Hard to tell this early, but it's giving my bowed and nozzled Fuzion a run for it's money. Within a couple of degrees, hard to tell if I'll gain that in settlemeant/curing or possibly a remount. But I do know I gained about 4-5C from bowing and adding a nozzle to my fuzion so the block is already performing better than my fuzion when stock. Not too bad for my first home brew attempt..

    I'll run the numbers in a couple of days, the CLP should be cured pretty well and bubbles out of the lines by then.

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  9. #59
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    wow you really put that thing to use quickly. Congrats on the MartinBlock V0.1 Beta


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  10. #60
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    That is some great work man!

  11. #61
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    Martinm210, nice job on the first attempt.

    The diamonds on the Swifty blocks are cut with one pass going from flat to flat (left to right) and the opposing pass going corner to corner (upper right to lower left).



    For final assembly, use IPS Weld-On #3. Best stuff out there for gluing polycarb & acrylic.
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  12. #62
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    Really awesome job there! Argh it's poisoning me to get a larger mill myself...
    How's the latest results on this?

  13. #63
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    OMG Martin you're a genius... i WANT that block + gpu version too
    its really wonderfull.

    btw, is that carilic safe? i mean, would it not crack if mounted really hard?
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  14. #64
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    Wow martin! very good news.

    I cant wait for some conclusive temps, And especially pressure drop.

    But seriously, very nice work, I think this may be the beginning of some VERY good things.

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  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad_Man View Post
    OMG Martin you're a genius... i WANT that block + gpu version too
    its really wonderfull.

    btw, is that carilic safe? i mean, would it not crack if mounted really hard?

    Thanks!

    I don't like acrylic either, the block itself is made out of lexan, talked it over with alot of folks, no one has ever seen lexan crack and I've experiemented with it trying to break it without luck
    Here is a fun video on the difference between acrylic and lexan:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hsls5ZPCUnE

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterlogged View Post
    Martinm210, nice job on the first attempt.

    The diamonds on the Swifty blocks are cut with one pass going from flat to flat (left to right) and the opposing pass going corner to corner (upper right to lower left).

    For final assembly, use IPS Weld-On #3. Best stuff out there for gluing polycarb & acrylic.
    Thanks! I have an MCW60 that's very similar. I just thought swiftech has a patent on their specific diamond layout, so I purposely made mine different, my flow patters are a bit different as well. I'm might try a diamond layout, but I think I would make the diamonds symmetrically vertical, and perhaps at an even sharper angle. I don't think I'll ever want to sell a product anyhow, I'm more interested in just fabricating custom stuff. Plan to make lots of different "Engineering" samples...

    The rotate square pins are doing pretty well though.
    Last edited by Martinm210; 10-19-2007 at 05:59 AM.

  17. #67
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    What about doing a diamond pattern when the longer sides is perpendicular to the sides instead of 1 straight line and 1 line in 45. If my math is right, you should tilt 22.5 degrees each direction to make the pattern.

    This might also help a bit with flow since it will be directing toward the 2 outlets.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    Ah, ok, so just a diamond pin style that's more striaight up and down diamonds. Thanks, if this base doesn't work out, I'll have to give that a try.
    Yeah, that's what I was talking about. I apologize for my inability to verbally describe it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Waterlogged View Post
    It seems to me that putting the inlet in the center, with outlets on top left and bottom right, would tend to restrict the shortest path, (diagonal line connecting all ports) and offer less resistance to flow perpendicular to the shortest path, which in my completely un-experienced opinion would tend to force a more even flow throughout the entire block. Of course, even if this is true, it might not be a good thing in terms of temps.

    I'm looking forward to seeing some more comparison data, but from the sounds of it you're doing well, and in any case it makes for a very interesting thread.

    [OT]Has anyone tried to use your flow estimator to predict temperature performance with C/W curves for blocks/rads?[/OT]

  19. #69
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    when will they be on sale ? lol how about a acetal top version???
    Quote Originally Posted by skinnee View Post
    No, I think he had a date tonight...

    He and his EK Supreme are out for a night on the town!

  20. #70
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    Nice results! Defiantly not bad at all for a first attempt!

    Interested to hear about further developments!


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  21. #71
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    very nice work...
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  22. #72
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    I agree with everyone else. Very nice work.

  23. #73
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    how much are you going to sell these blocks for???

  24. #74
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    Wow I think you already have a built in client base there martin, i forsee financial sucess in your future....


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  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by TopherTony View Post
    Wow I think you already have a built in client base there martin, i forsee financial sucess in your future....
    I'd buy one if they're equal too any other leading block on the market

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