Abit IP35 Pro - VMod needed

[shimmishim]

this is what i found from probing around the socket. it should work

http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/sho...48&postcount=2

[MikalCarbine]

Thank you, I'll test that right now. Do you have any other measure points, especially vdimm?

[shimmishim]

vdimm can be found in that huge thread in the intel section.

not sure what page. i guess you'll have to use the search function on that thread.

[MikalCarbine]

Already found it, I forgot that vdimm was on that picture, thought it was vtt for some reason

Thanks, I'll post later tonight to let you all know how the mod went

[MikalCarbine]

Just want to report my real vcore measurements

at idle I get 1.45 switching back and forth to 1.47 rapidly, but when I put it under load it instantly spikes up to 1.589v (1.61v in bios) when running 1024K FFT lenghts in Prime95 and to 1.579 when running 8K FTT lengths in Prime95.

Is that weird or what? Why would there be massive vdroop at idle but not too bad at load

[MikalCarbine]

Found out that was because I had EIST/C1E on

Either way, I did the mod, it came out great, my vcore is ROCK solid now I'll post pictures tomorrow

Johnny, I noticed if I keep lowering my resistance my vcore gradually increases towards the voltage set in my BIOS. Do you think it is safe to keep decreasing it so I can get a 1:1 voltage? Currently I have a .08v droop

[Johnny Bravo]

shimmishim - you're bang on the money for that vcore measuring point, it's the same one I use

MikalCarbine - yes as you decrease the resistance you will notice that the vcore at idle will rise, as well as the droop. The rate at which the idle rises is slower than that for the droop so lets say "stock" it was 1.45v your new idle may be 1.48 but your voltage at load will also now be ~1.48v. Basically have ORTHOS or similar up and running then start it up, adjust, idle it to see what the new idle vcore is and adjust accordingly. after a few round of this you will eventually get a 1:1 ratio or there abouts. I normally run it with just a little droop in case of any voltage overshoot.

[MikalCarbine]

shimmishim - you're bang on the money for that vcore measuring point, it's the same one I use

MikalCarbine - yes as you decrease the resistance you will notice that the vcore at idle will rise, as well as the droop. The rate at which the idle rises is slower than that for the droop so lets say "stock" it was 1.45v your new idle may be 1.48 but your voltage at load will also now be ~1.48v. Basically have ORTHOS or similar up and running then start it up, adjust, idle it to see what the new idle vcore is and adjust accordingly. after a few round of this you will eventually get a 1:1 ratio or there abouts. I normally run it with just a little droop in case of any voltage overshoot.

I'll run with a little droop then

Just wondering, where did you get your degree in EE? I'm currently undergoing my BSEE and University of Hartford

[zbogorgon]

Johnny. any news on vcore mod, I am really starting to need it

[MikalCarbine]

This morning I woke up to a BSOD after folding last night, I checked my vcore with my DMM and it was 1.56, when it used to be 1.572... so I readjusted my potentiometer so my volts were back up there. Any reason why this would happen? My vcore is set the same in BIOS and all

[shimmishim]

just did the droop mod. works perfectly now!

1.44 = 1.44

[Boxcar]

Has anyone who has done this seen any negative effects like those seen on the DS3's vdroop mod? Any effect on overclocking?

[Nosfer@tu]

This morning I woke up to a BSOD after folding last night, I checked my vcore with my DMM and it was 1.56, when it used to be 1.572... so I readjusted my potentiometer so my volts were back up there. Any reason why this would happen? My vcore is set the same in BIOS and all

I tried that Once. Dont recall why it happens thoug

[Johnny Bravo]

Sorry for delay was out of town :

[shimmishim]

again, excellent job!

if i ever get around to dry ice, i will have to give this mod a try.

thanks!

[Johnny Bravo]

Just a note, at 50kOhm you will get a voltage rise of around 0.05-0.06volts before you begin to reduce the resistance, I've chosen to use the 50K as it should provide more accurate control than a 100k.

[zbogorgon]

thank you johnny, very much will try both ASAP

[dodit]

Does anyone knows about Vdrop mod for IP35 Off Limits???

[Astri]

Johnny, i have the non-pro version of IP35. The circuit differs a bit
here it is:



Sorry for the bad quality but is taken from a mobile phone.

Can u find the vdroop mod like this, or u need more info?

[RLM]

Really need some help here, very new to this.

I picked up the necessary bits yesterday. Followed a tip and stuck the 1K ohm inside a fan header. Took measurements with a multi meter and all good.

For the soldering a did a test run on an old sound card, soldering wires to the IC's. That went fine, or atleast okay.

Impatiently I moved onto the my motherboard. This is where the Frustration kicked in. Unlike on the soundcard, my solder would not stick to the IC's. I'm actually surprised my kit is up and running, the amount of times I attempted it.

Method I used was to get some solder on the end of my wire. Put the soldering iron very briefly on top of the IC. Put the wire tip on the IC, and then put the soldering iron tip on it for about 2-3 seconds, allowing the solder to melt. No Joy though.

Why the difference? Do I need to prep the IC's then with flux, and if so what sort of flux and how? Due to oxidization do I need to clean the IC's up somehow? They do look kind of delicate though, can't picture sanding them.

If anyone can give me some pointers here will be really appreciated

Thanks ahead.

RLM

ps. By the way, I don't think I tinned the solder properly or thoroughly enough due to ignorance. Most articles just say tin the tip with solder, without explaining further. Would that make the difference?

[Nosfer@tu]

Try like this.

Solder on the wire. Put the wire on the place you need it to stick.
Put the soldering iron on the wire and the place you want it to stay for 1½ sek. Just enough to make the solder and the "soldering place" to bound.
Remove iron and if it sticks and you cant move it with a littelpoke be happy.

Even if it is not so perfect as you want it to be, dont try and improve it.

[RLM]

Nosfer@tu,

Thanks a lot for the reply, it is appreciated.

I did actually do that as well as tinning the wire beforehand. Thing is it just wouldn't stick. Don't know if there was some sort of coating already on the surface? or whether I needed to use flux.

RLM

[Nosfer@tu]

Try to clean you soldering tip.

Also the flux in the solder can be "damaged" or burned of if you heat it up to many times.

Use a NEW whire. Dont tin it, try to get it to stick with what it connected at the Soldering point.
If that dosent work.

IF you have a tin sucker, remove as much tin as possible, But dont over do the heat. Remember to Blow air on the soldering place so it cools down every time. Heat is A MOTHER if it is a small capasitor or resister. They die easly.

use a new whire, tin it, Place it where you want to solder, Heat the whire and solder point up very breifly. Remove iron and blow cold air, Just blow on it, No fansy fan or anything.

Now find a Glass pen somwhere, they are used to remove coatings on solder points. I learned it the hard way on a 5900 Se a few years back..

[RLM]

Nosfer@tu,

Thanks for the detailed response. Very helpful

Unfortunately I've actually copped out a bit. A went with a friend to buy his DFI P35-T2R last Friday, and the temptation got the better of me so I did the same and sold my IP35 pro.

That said here's a test run I did on an old sound card. Wouldn't hurt to get a bit of practice in



RLM

[Nosfer@tu]

Looks like you know what you are doing m8

That wireing you are using, is that from a IDE Cable ?
I always make sure not to have the cables "flying" I juste 1 cm of tape and that gives me insulation so I can place the wire parralel with the board.
Just makes me fell more safe abouth the soldering Not that big a risk of tarring it of my bistake