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Thread: Lapped core 2 duo IHS pics

  1. #351
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    That's insane.

    (And can we please not quote big pictures?).
    Quote Originally Posted by amscott
    my freind is a proud owneer of an xbox 360. from wat he has told me, microsoft has secret built in devices that only are in the xbox and cannot be recreated. for instance he told me taht there is this little divise that is in the xbox 360 taht u cannot take out which if u play online and microsoft catches you hacking with this special chip thing that changes somthing in the games, microsoft will basicly sent a EMP pulse to your game system and fry it. :O because of these little part in the system, it is very difficult if not impossoble to modify the xbox with other parts because of the compatibility of the processor and (dashboard).

  2. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by TekZen View Post
    I am waiting for some float glass to come in that I ordered from Rockler, and have the sandpaper ready, up to 3000 grit! Can't wait! (funny, I used Norton waterstones to hone my chisels, but it took xtreme computing to get me to the "ScarySharp" method!

    WTH!!! Can you explain everything you just said cause I have no idea what your talking about or referring to.
    Boy that info was old. As am I. Currently my kids have taken over my desktops. They are both sporting matching GTX1080's. Last Christmas I got everyone Oculuses and thus GTX1080's. My eldest is some sort of CSGO champion gold label something or other. Me I work and shoot real guns. Build Comps as needed.

  3. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by little_scrapper View Post
    Daveb2012,

    is that an earlier version of the ninja? I just got mine not long ago and I do NOT have the lower corners cuttouts like your does. Mine has the fins squared off all the way to the bottom.
    I thought is was a revision, later version but I could be wrong.
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  4. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by little_scrapper View Post
    WTH!!! Can you explain everything you just said cause I have no idea what your talking about or referring to.
    Glass is the closest to perfectly flat item we can use to back the sandpaper. If that was your question. The other items he was referring to are (I believe) sharpening stones for knives. I lapped my Tuniq Tower120 and I was temped to pull out my sharpening stone, but I fought the urge. Looking back, a grinder may have been appropriate.

    I suggest a great deal of patience (and maybe multiple sheets of 400 grit paper) before lapping a Tuniq Tower120. Those suckers are top heavy, so you have to go really slow, and it's not easy on the fingers.
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  5. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by little_scrapper View Post
    Daveb2012,

    is that an earlier version of the ninja? I just got mine not long ago and I do NOT have the lower corners cuttouts like your does. Mine has the fins squared off all the way to the bottom.
    Quote Originally Posted by Daveb2012 View Post
    I thought is was a revision, later version but I could be wrong.
    Weird enough, there are still Rev. A and Rev. B Ninjas on the market (at least here in Portugal). This one appears to be a Rev. B, though, because Rev. A had the socket 478 clamps embedded (I should know, I have one of those).

    Or we might just have found out the reason why some Ninjas are more efficient than others. It may have to do with that whole bottom/two halves bottom...

    Cheers.

    Miguel

  6. #356
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    Your opinion about ym results ?

    I lapped a E6600 and I fear that the result after lapping is worse. I am waiting for a new motherboard, so I was not able to see the temperature difference now.

    Before lapping :




    After lapping :




    After lapping, the IHS center is more in contact with the cooler base but the contact surface area seems to have decreased. So, what will the CPU temperature be now ? Increase, decrase ?

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  7. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by overclock View Post
    I lapped a E6600 and I fear that the result after lapping is worse. I am waiting for a new motherboard, so I was not able to see the temperature difference now.

    Before lapping :

    [IMG]http://falguieres.perso.cegetel.net/avant%20poncage.JPG[/IMG


    After lapping :

    [IMG]http://falguieres.perso.cegetel.net/apres%20poncage.JPG[/IMG

    After lapping, the IHS center is more in contact with the cooler base but the contact surface area seems to have decreased. So, what will the CPU temperature be now ? Increase, decrase ?

    Thanks.
    have you checked your coolers base for flatness at all?

  8. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spawne32 View Post
    have you checked your coolers base for flatness at all?
    No, since I will use a Mach II GT : even if it is not flat, I won't be able to lap it.
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  9. #359
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    IM really bad at lapping, i lapped my old 6600 and my temps went up, i had to re-lap it to get my temps back down to where they were :/

  10. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by GAR View Post
    IM really bad at lapping, i lapped my old 6600 and my temps went up, i had to re-lap it to get my temps back down to where they were :/
    You need to lapp the CPU onto the sandpaper. Not the sandpaper onto the CPU.

    (if that helps)>
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  11. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by little_scrapper View Post
    WTH!!! Can you explain everything you just said cause I have no idea what your talking about or referring to.
    Float glass is about the flattest glass you can get to use as the base for sandpaper lapping/honing/flattening. It is used all the time for woodworking (which I do on the side). "ScarySharp" or "Scary Sharp" is a method of dry honing using sandpaper as opposed to things like whetstones or waterstones to hone and sharpen chisels, plane irons.

    Glass, (like waterblocks and heatsinks) is not uniformely flat, and it varies. float glass is made by "floating" molten glas ingredients on a bed of molten tin. It fuses the impurities out of the glass and makes it EXTREMELY flat on both sides, and about 4mm thick.

    If you are going to the trouble of lapping, it seems that you would want to start off with the flattest surface to lap against.

    Here is a link to Garrett Wade tools and the float glass they offer. http://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?...&itemID=102841

    Is that what you were asking about?

  12. #362
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    Sorry Taffer. Missed seeing you had already responded. You are correct. It is funny how different hobbies/disciplines crossover here. Methods in woodworking and salt water aquarium flow have good methods that can be employed with liquid cooling. Makes me wonder what other tidbits of knowlege are floating around from other things that could apply.

    Check this link out I just found from another post talking about limiting HD vibration and noise: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article8-page2.html

  13. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by overclock View Post
    No, since I will use a Mach II GT : even if it is not flat, I won't be able to lap it.
    Sure you can, it does take a slightly different approach. I've done it on an old Mach I with good results.

  14. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by TekZen View Post
    Float glass is about the flattest glass you can get to use as the base for sandpaper lapping/honing/flattening. It is used all the time for woodworking (which I do on the side). "ScarySharp" or "Scary Sharp" is a method of dry honing using sandpaper as opposed to things like whetstones or waterstones to hone and sharpen chisels, plane irons.

    Glass, (like waterblocks and heatsinks) is not uniformely flat, and it varies. float glass is made by "floating" molten glas ingredients on a bed of molten tin. It fuses the impurities out of the glass and makes it EXTREMELY flat on both sides, and about 4mm thick.

    If you are going to the trouble of lapping, it seems that you would want to start off with the flattest surface to lap against.

    Here is a link to Garrett Wade tools and the float glass they offer. http://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?...&itemID=102841

    Is that what you were asking about?

    Yes. Thank you, I had no clue what he was referring to. I just used my end table. My end tables cost around $500 a piece and has a nice 1" thick slab of tempered glass on it. The wife didnt really appreciate me slapping down some sandpaper on it and grinding away. hehe but screw her, I paid for them
    Boy that info was old. As am I. Currently my kids have taken over my desktops. They are both sporting matching GTX1080's. Last Christmas I got everyone Oculuses and thus GTX1080's. My eldest is some sort of CSGO champion gold label something or other. Me I work and shoot real guns. Build Comps as needed.

  15. #365
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    lol

  16. #366
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    Yikes! Brave man to incite his wife. Watch out for a domestic goddess. She might just decide to "help you out" by polishing your mobo with furniture wax, or shine up all that nice copper with some cleaner while the box is running.

  17. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by TekZen View Post
    Sorry Taffer. Missed seeing you had already responded. You are correct. It is funny how different hobbies/disciplines crossover here. Methods in woodworking and salt water aquarium flow have good methods that can be employed with liquid cooling. Makes me wonder what other tidbits of knowlege are floating around from other things that could apply.
    No problem TekZen...I was correct, but your answer was more correct and way better than mine I did not know about the glass making process you mentioned and the next time I lap...I'l consider that glass. How much difference did it make for you using that glass vs other glass? I plan on lapping again, and besides, after lapping a Tuniq Tower120, a CPU should be a piece of cake
    My New Rig:
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  18. #368
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    wow that is shiny!
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  19. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taffer View Post
    No problem TekZen...I was correct, but your answer was more correct and way better than mine I did not know about the glass making process you mentioned and the next time I lap...I'l consider that glass. How much difference did it make for you using that glass vs other glass? I plan on lapping again, and besides, after lapping a Tuniq Tower120, a CPU should be a piece of cake
    Honestly, I am not sure. Lapping on my woodworking setup (flattened granite block and norton waterstones) did a pretty good job. Going ScarySharp on the blocks has too many variables (float glass, sandpaper, copper v. aluminum) that I cannot nail down if using float glass made much of a difference at all. Honestly, I don't know that it would be a huge deal, as glass is pretty flat anyway.

    I could try to do some lapping experimenting, but probably is not worth it. I actually just got in a WorkSharp sharpening system. I am going to try it on my sinks, though you need a LIGHT touch on mechanical systems.

    http://www.garrettwade.com/text/items/WorkSharp2.html

  20. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by TekZen View Post
    I'm going to try it on my sinks, though you need a LIGHT touch on mechanical systems.

    http://www.garrettwade.com/text/items/WorkSharp2.html


    Wow, that's an amazing tool. Thanks for the link. I don't do woodworking, but it's always facinated me. I've done minor stuff when I was helping my dad or working around the house such as door jams or slotting contours to make things fit. I do however think my dad and several people at work would be greatly interested in this! My supervisor, our network administrator, does some very finely detailed work, such as cutting out rose shapes to put into hand made jewelery boxes, or actual petals to mount on top.

    Back on topic I used a kit (http://www.easypckits.com/) to lap my heatsink and it worked great. I had to redo the last 2 sheets of fine sandpaper because the polished side was so smooth that the copper that it ground off scarred the bottom again. So I had to rinse the paper a few times to get that final shine and not scratch it up. I'll see if my girlfriend can bring her camera and cable so I can upload a good picture of it for this post. Like you said, a "light touch", but I can read the fine print in the reflection and I've not cheated by polishing it with a polish! I did have to use the 400/600/800 sheets a few times and literally use every square inch of each sheet to get down to a fairly flat surface. The Tuniq Tower120 is a top notch air cooler, but the copper footing was horrible. I would have used a grinder like that to start off with if I had realized just how badly it was off, and that's no joke!
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  21. #371
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    Yep, it will flatten it danged quick. I had to LMAO when I first saw the machine though. One of its biggest selling points is that you rest your chisels or plane irons against...A HEATSINK! I mean, did Cathar design this thing, or what?!

  22. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by TekZen View Post
    I am going to try it on my sinks, though you need a LIGHT touch on mechanical systems.

    http://www.garrettwade.com/text/items/WorkSharp2.html
    That's a terrible idea, sure the surface might be flat but there is no way to ensure that you're grinding evenly, flat and crooked are going to do more harm then good.

    Sharpening wood tools is nowhere near as exact as working with metal that has to be joined with other metal. I'm still waiting to see someone who really wants to see the benefits of really lapped parts, and that would take something like this

    http://rcgcncblocks.com/SERVICES.htm

  23. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by falqon View Post
    That's a terrible idea, sure the surface might be flat but there is no way to ensure that you're grinding evenly, flat and crooked are going to do more harm then good.

    Sharpening wood tools is nowhere near as exact as working with metal that has to be joined with other metal. I'm still waiting to see someone who really wants to see the benefits of really lapped parts, and that would take something like this

    http://rcgcncblocks.com/SERVICES.htm
    LOL...you honestly believe that their is no way to ensure a correct positioning of a piece of metal (be it heatsink, plane iron, chisel,...) truly perpendicular to the grinding surface of a honing/lapping machine? Or woodworking does not have high tolerance expectations for tools? Either you are misinformed or the driver of the turnip truck you fell off of is looking for you. Why do you think they would even offer float glass in the first place?! You have obviously never seen a Holtey Hand Plane (hats off to the Brits for these little treasures).

    I totally agree with you on your observation that a machinist shop with correct tools would be able to do an even better job than this honing system. Of course, if we are going to play the lapping "one-upsmanship" game, check out http://www.irconnect.com/noc/press/p....mhtml?d=87394 You would not even need thermal paste at this point!! Capilliary action would probably hold them on!

    Apologies all for this becoming so off topic. I would rather see some more pics of highly lapped chips!

  24. #374
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    This thread is really making me want to lap my E6400. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good lapping guide?
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  25. #375
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    omg, here is a lapping guide...

    -buy glass(flat )

    -buy sandpaper (600-1500 grit)

    -tape the sandpaper to the glass

    -sand the cpu on the sandpaper/glass till the IHS is flat and smooth

    WOAH that was hard, my brain hurts now

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