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Thread: Painting a PA120.3 rad, k to do?

  1. #1
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    Painting a PA120.3 rad, k to do?

    I am going to masking tape off the core/fin area, but want to paint the body of the RAD cause the very dull black finish looks terrible. Is it OK to paint the rad, I cant see it hurting performance at all do you?
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    As long as the fins aren't painted like you said you will be doing. It will be fine.

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    built-in shroud has nothing to do with performance so you can paint it

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    Thats what I figured, just wanted to double check first.
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    You won't lose any performance. Radical_53 (from Forumdeluxx) painted his one silver and it still performs great.
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  6. #6
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    also, 1 last question: Those clear plastic barbs that come with it, they just need some teflon tape correct, and not an O-ring? Also, would it be worth it to buy aftermarket barbs like these (http://www.petrastechshop.com/aqhifig3th1o.html) as this uses an O-ring seal, is this better. I can't see the performance being any different from just changing barbs, but im looking for the best seal. Thanks
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    Teflon tape should not be used on plastic threads.

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    it depends on which plastic barbs you have, some plastic barbs comes with O-Ring if not then use PTFE tape to seal it. Plastic barbs will easy to be cracked if over tighten and pain in the neck to put tubing on and take it off so brass/nickel plated barbs will be a better choice since it is so much easier to put the tubing on and take it off

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBigBunny View Post
    Teflon tape should not be used on plastic threads.
    That isn't true Swiftech rads come with plastic barbs with teflon tape on them.
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  10. #10
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    Well, if you want better looking barbs, ease of installation, and ease of sealing up, then get the aftermarket ones.
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    Quote Originally Posted by newls1 View Post
    That isn't true Swiftech rads come with plastic barbs with teflon tape on them.

    Oh, well if Swiftech includes it it must be ok:

    http://www.lascofittings.com/support...dedPlastic.asp

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBigBunny View Post
    Oh, well if Swiftech includes it it must be ok:

    http://www.lascofittings.com/support...dedPlastic.asp
    They say not to use teflon tape on plastics to plastic, not plastic to metal.

    I would suggest using teflon tape on plastic to metal if the barb doesnt have an o-ring seal.

    As far as plastic on plastic goes, I have had to use teflon tape before, especially when I had my Iwaki. Hell, even Iwaki said to use teflon tape.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer View Post
    They say not to use teflon tape on plastics to plastic, not plastic to metal.

    I would suggest using teflon tape on plastic to metal if the barb doesnt have an o-ring seal.

    As far as plastic on plastic goes, I have had to use teflon tape before, especially when I had my Iwaki. Hell, even Iwaki said to use teflon tape.
    The problem is that teflon tape doesn't have enough 'give', and the plastic threads are put under strain. Over time they get distorted, potentially allowing for leaks to develop. The thread compound on the other hand flows into gaps as water tries to work its way through the threads and actively stops any potential leaks.

    I used PTFE tape without a problem on many plastic threads, but, it looks like it can cause problems over time, so why not do what the pros say is the proper way? Frankly, a leak that develops at some later time is far worse than one that happens right after initial installation.

    I may not tear apart my loop to re do all of my fittings, but I will be removing the tape and applying plastic thread compound whenever I've got to take out a component or install a new one.

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    Get it painted !!
    i painted mine... although its not a Pa i don't see how it would hurt performance:/
    unless you wanna get onto matt surfaces Vs glossy ones lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheReds View Post
    What he said!

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    Paint my Theromchills and now looking at getting them powdercoated

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBigBunny View Post
    The problem is that teflon tape doesn't have enough 'give', and the plastic threads are put under strain. Over time they get distorted, potentially allowing for leaks to develop. The thread compound on the other hand flows into gaps as water tries to work its way through the threads and actively stops any potential leaks.

    I used PTFE tape without a problem on many plastic threads, but, it looks like it can cause problems over time, so why not do what the pros say is the proper way? Frankly, a leak that develops at some later time is far worse than one that happens right after initial installation.

    I may not tear apart my loop to re do all of my fittings, but I will be removing the tape and applying plastic thread compound whenever I've got to take out a component or install a new one.
    Ok, thanks for your help, I understand now, even ready your new post just for this
    Quote Originally Posted by R B Customs View Post
    Get it painted !!
    i painted mine... although its not a Pa i don't see how it would hurt performance:/
    unless you wanna get onto matt surfaces Vs glossy ones lol
    Nice paint job, that is incredible I just finished painting mine, did mine in a silver metallic texture finish. Looks a hell of a lot better then the black "primer" looking finish that it came in.
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    Hehe cheers lads
    that one was done a while ago.

    If i ever get 5 minutes where im not at work ill be starting another project for my self

    i painted that rad as it was damaged... then it just got out of hand lol
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    If you get paint on the fins, can't you use acetone or lacquer thinner to get it off? It won't damage the tubes or anything...
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    It was to easy to tape off the fin area. I used the blue 3m painters tape that it 2 inches wide. Very easy to do, there is no excuss if you get paint on the fins :-o
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  22. #22
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    These pictures dont give the paint finish any justice, but here they are anyways. In person the paint is glossy, and a nice silver metallic.



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    now looking at getting them powdercoated
    Don't. Simple as that. Can't be done. The rad will fall apart.
    Powdercoat bake is done at too high a temp. Even a Lo-Temp bake is too hot... and if it weren't too hot would result in a course finish instead of gloss... to get the gloss look it has to be fulltemp bake, and the oventemp is higher than the solder's melt temp.

    (Hence ThermoChill rad's ain't powdercoated, and nor are anyone elses...)

    If you want a high quality finish... electrostatic. If you just want a quality gloss finish, regular car 2 pak and lacquer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marci View Post
    Don't. Simple as that. Can't be done. The rad will fall apart.
    Powdercoat bake is done at too high a temp. Even a Lo-Temp bake is too hot... and if it weren't too hot would result in a course finish instead of gloss... to get the gloss look it has to be fulltemp bake, and the oventemp is higher than the solder's melt temp.

    (Hence ThermoChill rad's ain't powdercoated, and nor are anyone elses...)

    If you want a high quality finish... electrostatic. If you just want a quality gloss finish, regular car 2 pak and lacquer.
    So whats the max heat these rads can take then? Stove enamiling is out as thats backed in a oven too

  25. #25
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    About 120/130 deg C. The closer the baketemp is, the more it will structurally weaken any soldered joints.

    None of the "gloss" radiators out there (Swiftechs, HWLabs, Coolingworks etc) are painted using any method that involves oven-baking.

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