need some help, phase setup not working

[pumbertot]

so I set it all up, configured the waterloop (for G80).
ok all leads are connected on the prommy, power button pressed.
prommy goes down to -35C. then PSU comes on, fans spin, DDC pumps away but nothing else happens. no keybaord backlights, no beeps, nothing.

this is on a P5B-D with QX6700 and 8800GTX. they all worked together fine when the CPU was watercooled and GTX was aircooled.

hope I havent killed something somehow and if I have I hope its the GTX.
I dont have another CPU or a HSF or another PCI-E gfx card to try.

[jimmyz]

did you try the system before you mounted everything? what ram? try using only 1 stick of some generic low voltage ram and try to get into bios to up the volts. make sure there is not a short somewhere.

[pumbertot]

did you try the system before you mounted everything? what ram? try using only 1 stick of some generic low voltage ram and try to get into bios to up the volts. make sure there is not a short somewhere.

if you read my post thats why I clearly stated they were all working before. Ive been using these parts together for over a month. there can be no short by mounting phase change.

want to hear from any of the phase pros please.

[LostInSpace278]

First thing I would is un hook the Graphics, ram, sound card, HHD, and main MB connectors from PSU. Then reconnect everything. Check in bios to see if you have CPU disconnect disabled. If this doesn't do it, then try having the computer turn on at @-10°C.

[[XC] gomeler]

Remove the new variables to the situation, mainly being the prommy. Just remove the electrial parts of the system from the motherboard and try to power-up the board, you can keep the evap attached to the CPU and it'll absorb the heat produced, just don't run it too long as the copper can only absorb so much heat. Once you verify that it isn't a hardware problem then focus on the prommy and getting it to fire up correctly, perhaps it is misreading something. Honestly I don't think it's a problem with the prommy but that's the last step, I'd first suspect the ram not enjoying a particular voltage or timing and then perhaps not enough vcore but I don't know enough about the system.

[pumbertot]

First thing I would is un hook the Graphics, ram, sound card, HHD, and main MB connectors from PSU. Then reconnect everything. Check in bios to see if you have CPU disconnect disabled. If this doesn't do it, then try having the computer turn on at @-10°C.

thanks. how would I go about getting the unit to boot the pc @ -10C. do I need to hook it up via usb to another rig and use the software, right?

CPU disconnect, is that in the p5b-d BIOS? what is its function?

[pumbertot]

Remove the new variables to the situation, mainly being the prommy. Just remove the electrial parts of the system from the motherboard and try to power-up the board, you can keep the evap attached to the CPU and it'll absorb the heat produced, just don't run it too long as the copper can only absorb so much heat. Once you verify that it isn't a hardware problem then focus on the prommy and getting it to fire up correctly, perhaps it is misreading something. Honestly I don't think it's a problem with the prommy but that's the last step, I'd first suspect the ram not enjoying a particular voltage or timing and then perhaps not enough vcore but I don't know enough about the system.

input appreciated. its definitely not RAM related they were running just fine before mounting the prommy, never a problem with bootup regardless of voltage set on RAM. I have reset cmos so vcore isnt an issue either. i have been running the cpu fine on water for past month. all ive done now is changed the loop to mcw60 for the gtx and prommy on the cpu. I will try what you suggest for a few seconds without the prommy switched on to see if it posts(when I get home from nightshift) and hopefully something will happen.

[harvshark]

I just went through a horrible spat of problems with my quad on a p5b-d. It was most definately the ram. I had upgraded to the new pc9200 ocz flx ram and the mobo would not boot or even beep any time I changed ram timing or fsb speed. The only way I could bring the rig back up was to borrow a stick of pc8000 ram from another rig and swap out the pc9200. Then I could boot and change bios settings, and it would ususally boot when I put the faster ram back in.
I finally got sick and tired of swapping ram in and out all the time to keep the thing going and bought a 2gb kit of corsair pc9136 dominators, and they work just great.
I think the problem is that the ocz's are rated at 2.3v and the corsairs are rated at 2.1v. My understanding is that when the mobo first tries to boot, it is starting up the ram at a default 1.8v, and I think it's just too low for the ocz to initialize.
So....I would suggest trying to get back where you started from. As suggested earlier, remove all of the electrical connections from the prommy to the computer. Is there a usb interface like the Vapo LS? If so, could be a usb conflict.
Did you remove the cpu from the socket when mounting the prommy or add grease to the socket under the cpu? I killed my first p5b-d when I greased the socket by getting too careless with a paper towel when I was wiping up some excess hs compound. Caught a few of the socket contacts and tweaked them. Good bye mobo.
I also had a failure later after the vapo ls died and I went back to air cooling. After a few weeks at the higher temps, the white hs compound on the bottom of the cpu thickened up and the cpu would no longer make proper contact with the socket. Removed the hs compound from the bottom of the cpu with isopropyl alcohol and all was good again.
But I am betting on the ram after what I just fought with on this mobo for the last month. I know you said that everything was working OK together on water, but ram will change a bit over time, and sometimes will need a bit more voltage when it ages to run at the same speed. There is a chance it just picked your upgrade time to get flaky. Try booting on just one stick of some slower ram. It worked for me all the time.
BTW, the ram booting bug is the same on the Commando. Very similar board to the p5b-d. I had bought one before I figured out the hs compound problem on the bottom of the cpu, thought my p5b-d had died.
Good luck!!!

[pumbertot]

thanks for the input. yeah i put thermal grease in the socket and on the cpu pins.(i was ESD grounded)
what do you mean by hs compound, the ceramique on the cpu?
yeah I will try with one stick of ram too just to be sure.

[harvshark]

thanks for the input. yeah i put thermal grease in the socket and on the cpu pins.(i was ESD grounded)
what do you mean by hs compound, the ceramique on the cpu?
yeah I will try with one stick of ram too just to be sure.

I used the white hs compound that came with the LS in the socket. It later thickened up and caused problems with the cpu making proper contact with the socket. Nothing to do with the AS5 or Ceramique between the cpu and the heatsink or evap.
And the boot trick for the ram means trying the boot with 1 stick of some other, slower ram than the stuff that you are using now. Just trying 1 stick only of the same ram you can't boot with will probably not help. The trick is to use a stick of ram that will initialize at a lower voltage.
One neat thing that Asus added to the Commando mobo is a small lcd display on the connector panel that shows what the bios is doing during boot. It can help determine in some cases where the boot is stopping if the rig won't post.

[pumbertot]

I used the white hs compound that came with the LS in the socket. It later thickened up and caused problems with the cpu making proper contact with the socket. Nothing to do with the AS5 or Ceramique between the cpu and the heatsink or evap.
And the boot trick for the ram means trying the boot with 1 stick of some other, slower ram than the stuff that you are using now. Just trying 1 stick only of the same ram you can't boot with will probably not help. The trick is to use a stick of ram that will initialize at a lower voltage.
One neat thing that Asus added to the Commando mobo is a small lcd display on the connector panel that shows what the bios is doing during boot. It can help determine in some cases where the boot is stopping if the rig won't post.

tried other RAM and stil no joy so something must be wrong. got a cedermill coming this week with stock HSF so can test the kent on air to see if its working but im starting to think the mobo is screwed.
so long as it isnt the cpu though.........

[thesaucier]

Make sure to clear the cemos

[wdrzal]

I not a expert, but remove EVERYTHING you added and see if it works as it did before

Look for shorts or (un-intional) grounds,especially where you uses metal clamps or extra or longer screws.


sounds like pc is not being intianted by controller,sure all wires are pluged correct and making contact.unplug and replug

Finally was cooling unit new?

[harvshark]

Is there a chance any contacts in the cpu socket got tweaked when putting the grease in (like the mobo I killed)?

[[XC] MarioMaster]

it is possible so i'd check it once you rip it all apart again, but i don't think that would be a major problem to worry about