680i SLI is too expensive? Asus as the solution : P5N32-E SLI PLUS

[Merc14]

Great, thanks Naughty. I kind of figured that's what was going on but was afraid I was missing something. AMD is pretty much what you see is what you get. I get in there and play around tonight. Thanks much mate.

[goatboy]

Is anyone using any aftermarket chipset coolers, i.e. Thermalright, Swiftech, etc. on the NB?

[Naughtyboy]

Is anyone using any aftermarket chipset coolers, i.e. Thermalright, Swiftech, etc. on the NB?

Thermalright HR-05-SLI on both NB and SB...did wonders with this mobo.


(click for larger)

[goatboy]

Thanks Nb. Though I forgot to add in my previous question, "and still be able to run 2 video cards?" lol

[Naughtyboy]

Thanks Nb. Though I forgot to add in my previous question, "and still be able to run 2 video cards?" lol

Well..it would be possible..depending wich cards you are using...and what cooling you are using on them.

[G.Foyle]

Naughtyboy what are those mosfet sinks? and what are they glued with?

[goatboy]

Naughtyboy what are those mosfet sinks? and what are they glued with?

You can go to most PC part websites, like frozencpu, crazypc, xoxide, etc., and find them under "chipset coolers". They are applied with a thermal adhesive tape.

[Naughtyboy]

Naughtyboy what are those mosfet sinks? and what are they glued with?

Thoose are just some random sinks I had lying around..Coolermaster is the manufacturer I belive. And they are attached with "Thermal tape"

[Merc14]

If you are looking for MOSFET sinks you can go to the Asus E-Store and purchase the Voltage Regulator sinks for the A8N SLI series. They fit exactly and only cost $2. http://estore.asus.com/shop/item.asp...2534&catid=135

You can see the fit here

They snap right on but do leave a tiny bit of the inside row uncovered. Use a little AS Ceramique.

NAUGHTY: The only problem with that formula is this board bases RAM speed off the QDR number. Is there a way to set it up so that RAM comes off the FSB? I doubt it but thought I'd ask.

[G.Foyle]

I thought of glueing them with Arctic Alumina Adhesive but I just read on Arcitc website that it's permament... and from what I have heard thermal tape has very poor performance (perhaps sufficient for mosfets but not for RAM)

[Naughtyboy]

NAUGHTY: The only problem with that formula is this board bases RAM speed off the QDR number. Is there a way to set it up so that RAM comes off the FSB? I doubt it but thought I'd ask.

You seeme to get caught up in this QDR thingy...I really don´t understand why. Because I have spent ridicoulus amount of time in bios and calculating dividers like the ones I showed you and it works every time.

So I really don´t understand where you are getting that from...?!?!
When you set the FSB it´s in QDR, YES!! ....but when you set the memory frequensy(unlinked mode) it´s just plain and simple DDR.
When you want to calculate a divider you just use FSB(non QDR)...like in the formula. It´s really just as simple as that.

[shimmishim]

so the general consensus is that this is a good board?

looks interesting even though i'd prefer the non plus version as its true 680i

[Snyxxx]

In regards to the mosfet heat sinks, just mix 75%/25% Alumina epoxy/Normal Alumina to weaken the adhesion properties. I use this and can get them off again when necessary. 100% Alumina epoxy will be next to impossible to get off as they say.

Also, 50%/50% is too weak and the heat sink will fall off if accidentally bumped.

[G.Foyle]

Thanks Snyxxx, I'll try that when I buy my HR-05.

[Merc14]

You seeme to get caught up in this QDR thingy...I really don´t understand why. Because I have spent ridicoulus amount of time in bios and calculating dividers like the ones I showed you and it works every time.

So I really don´t understand where you are getting that from...?!?!
When you set the FSB it´s in QDR, YES!! ....but when you set the memory frequensy(unlinked mode) it´s just plain and simple DDR.
When you want to calculate a divider you just use FSB(non QDR)...like in the formula. It´s really just as simple as that.

I guess I just wanted to get back to what I know mate, divider off of the FSB. Tough to break old habits. I have played around with it and am now starting to get a feel for how things operate. It is just a matter of breaking old paradigms and forgetting the way you think of things and accepting something new.

Got her to boot and run S-Pi at 3387MHz last night, Not Orthos stable but a huge breakthrough for me as i forgot about QDR/FSB and dividers and learned how to work this system. Now it is just a matter of finding the sweetspot and continuing on. Always tough to break old habits.

Thanks for your patience and lessons learned and I think I have it figured now. BTW, I was playing around at 1.57+ Vcore and during one reboot and profile load I forgot to reset the Vcore. She booted and ran at 3387MHz on 1.52v. The only thing beteween this setup and glory is the "noob" operator.

Anyone contemplating buying a 6 series board should look no further than the the P5N32-eE SLI Plus. This is a rock solid, O/Cing mother of a PCB and is an absolute joy to work with. Do yourself a favor and get one.

[H0RM0NE]

3.7 MHz ... on a 2.1 MHz E6400. Not Orthos stable yet but getting there...

[Naughtyboy]

Thanks for your patience and lessons learned and I think I have it figured now.

No worries m8...I´m glad I can be off any help. Finally giving something back to the commuity. Sometimes it takes some gentle asskicking to get out of thoose old habits and get going.
I can´t agree with you more...this mobo is one sweet puppy..I think I´m actually in love with mine

3.7 MHz ... on a 2.1 MHz E6400. Not Orthos stable yet but getting there...

Thats just beautiful man...I´m sure you´ll get there.
Have you tried dual SPI32M...??
What cooling are you using and what temps do you get under load..?

[JohnnyV]

I have the non plus version of this board and I have a dilemma. I'm thinking of putting a NB waterblock (Swiftech MCW30) on it to replace the stock heatpipe solution. I just don't know whether this will make a difference in the max. overclock. Should I stick with the heatpipe or do you guys recommend to get the NB block (I'm ordering some stuff in the states anyway and the block would be a mere $30 extra)...... help?......

[Blacklash]

Wtg Hormone,

If I was after an nVidia board I'd probably try 650i myself. Looks good.

[goatboy]

I have the non plus version of this board and I have a dilemma. I'm thinking of putting a NB waterblock (Swiftech MCW30) on it to replace the stock heatpipe solution. I just don't know whether this will make a difference in the max. overclock. Should I stick with the heatpipe or do you guys recommend to get the NB block (I'm ordering some stuff in the states anyway and the block would be a mere $30 extra)...... help?......

You would be better off going with an after market cooling solution as opposed to stock heatpipe in order to achieve this.

[JohnnyV]

Ok I think I will order the Swiftech MCW30 then.
What about the SB? Is that related to max oc too and does that need extra attention as well?

oh and btw... the heatpipes are solid copper right? They do not contain any gas to cool it or anything? Reason I ask is because I think i will cut the heatpipe in half so I can put the waterblock on the NB and leave the heatsink on the mosfets.

[nvteleskier]

Naughtyboy,

This question is for everyone! When you're working on your overclock, do you normally have to reset CMOS after a lockup?

I tried some new settings and it would not restart, had to remove video card to get to CMOS. Not a big deal, but if I have to do it on a regular basis, I'll be happy with the overclock I have now. 3.4 is not too bad.

I can't get the memory to run at it's rated speed.

Keep up the great work, I think this board is a keeper!

[goatboy]

Ok I think I will order the Swiftech MCW30 then.
What about the SB? Is that related to max oc too and does that need extra attention as well?

oh and btw... the heatpipes are solid copper right? They do not contain any gas to cool it or anything? Reason I ask is because I think i will cut the heatpipe in half so I can put the waterblock on the NB and leave the heatsink on the mosfets.

You can remove all of the heatpipes if you like and replace them with chipset coolers. You can install mofset coolers like Naughtyboy shows, and then either go with a passive cooler for the SB, or an active one like the Swiftech, Thermalright, etc. Your choice.

Here is an example of some passive chipset coolers.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g40/...ive-Page1.html


And active.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g40/...ive-Page1.html

[H0RM0NE]

Thats just beautiful man...I´m sure you´ll get there.
Have you tried dual SPI32M...??
What cooling are you using and what temps do you get under load..?

Thanks Naughty!

The Dual 32's it is... How do you do that? Run them back to back/same time/one on each core? Have no idea, plz explain to the noob in training.

I'm using the AS5 stock mount Infinity w push/pull, pipes and a couple fans for now. I'm not convinced I need to take the pipes off and use the CL-C0034 TT yet. My temps are confusing from Everest and core temp read 45 max cores but 85 Tjunction no matter what load. I have to verify 85 tj and remount.

According to this from CompuTronix: GREAT INFO!!!

http://forumz.tomshardware.com/hardw...ict221745.html

C2D's feature 3 temperature sensors; a single on-die Tcase sensor (between the cores), and dual Tjunction sensors (one within each core)....Tcase + 15c = Tjunction

I should be seeing 45+15=60 @ load but I'm not...

EDIT: The 85 is the Max Tjunction read by the core temp as explained here: http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/howitworks.html

This is how the program works:

Intel defines a certain Tjunction temperature for the processor. In the case of Yonah it is 85C° or 100C°. First of all the program reads from a Model Specific Register (or MSR), and detects the Tjunction temperature. A different MSR contains the temperature data, this data is represented as Delta in C° between current temperature and Tjunction.

So the actual temperature is calculated like this 'Core Temp = Tjunction - Delta'

So my 45 under load is the tjunction - delta.

I'm learning...
What confused me was seeing the 85 in the Tjunction field. That is just for reference and delta calc. It is NOT an actual temp reading...

It's on my bench. Maybe someday I'll put it in my P180... Having too much fun right now the way it is...

PS. Nice "Twins!"

[nvteleskier]

Naughty,

Up to 3.5GHz, runs ORTHOS for 2 hours now. On the ASUS forums for this board, someone mentioned having to use 1.5v for the Northbridge. The minute I changed my NB setting to 1.5v it has run flawlessly.

Is 1.5v safe? I don't mind changing coolers to make this work, do I have to remove the motherboard to replace the coolers? The NZXT Zero case has
7ea 120mm + 1 80mm fans and it keeps everything relatively cool. I've also read someone's post who just took the label off the NB and placed a 40mm fan on top. Anyone here done that?

I cannot get this to run linked at all, I'm sure it's operator error, so thanks for everyone's help! I'm pleased with this motherboard at this stage.