ASUS P5W DH - Problems + Fixes Thread

[mikepaul]

But I still don't understand why it's taking so much time to start Win XP. With my old P4C800E Win XP was starting alot faster. A good 30 seconds faster then with the P5W DH.

I installed a USB TV tuner and the associated software seemed to bog my machine down a LOT while booting. After many reboots it must have finally completed whatever it had to do, and things went back to normal. There's an occasional lag after the swapfile defrag that happens at every boot, and I lose some USB devices somehow every few days and reinstalling the drivers isn't too quick.

If I had known every restart was going to be an adventure, I can't say I'd still have gotten this board...

[rivlez]

I'm annoyed that I didn't reach the 3Ghz I'd seen in the online reviews, but 2.87Ghz is now fairly stable.

You needed to manage to get a board that allows a vMCH of more than 1.65V, and memory that can overclock well past 800Mhz. Since my Corsair RAM refuses to reliably go faster than 820Mhz and still use the 1:1 ratio, I had to stop at a 410Mhz FSB setting. 420 would have worked if I lowered the ratio, but the benchmarks look better the way things sit now. Either way I was still under 3Ghz...

ya i know what u mean, i can do 3ghz easy with very little to get prime95 stable, when i get home i'm going to try and mess with it a little more. Just sucks that it is not a good ocing board for lower end c2d cpu's. Just wish I would've seen this forum and read some of the threads, definitely would've bought another P5B deluxe or even the an Abit board. What can you do though.

[cuke2u]

Hi all, this is my first post in this excellent and informative forum and I just want to share some things with you....

I've had this motherboard since tues last and since then I've managed to obtain a overclock of 2.4ghz with the standard HSF with FSB of 346.4 and my multiplier is 7.
Seems stable enough, although I've had a couple of lockups in 3dmark and Fear, but I'm not sure if it's the catsd 6.10 causing this or my memory modules.

I've got a couple of Geil DDR2 667MHz, PC5300 667MHz matched pairs in there and they are running at 692mhz, timings of 4 4 4 12 with voltage set to auto.

Question is, do I need to lower my timings, or/and increase my voltage or should I be ok? And... am I likely to be able to get anymore with the same HSF?
Answers on a postcard please :-)
ChrisC

[Pjoeloe]

new p5w-dh review here : http://www.hartware.de/review_627.html

[ThickFog]

Ok why don't you try putting the RAM at 2.0 and the Vcore at 1.325 pci express on 101. You should have pci clock 33.3.
Also set PERFORMANCE Mode to> Standard
This is not excessive voltage see if it helps.
Your error code on the install could be related to instability.
Also you have the 4 pin power plug installed into the motherboard?
I don't know your video card but it has a port and that is connected for 12 volts too?

In addtion: Run the RAM at : SPD
In CPU Configuration:
Microcode Updation > Enabled
The Five (5) remaining items> Disabled
Ok.. Your settings have greatly increased my stability but Im still having a few problems.
sparx

I was able to install windows xp home sucessfully, and install all the motherboard drivers (off the cd). When i installed my Ati catalyst, the bios again locked up on post, i turned it the pc off, and swiched the power supply on and off. Then I was then able to go in and find that your settings, that i had put in my bios were now all set to auto. Changing them back, the PC again ran perfectly and i was able to install mouse software etc

Then i go to begin the windows update process. The first step it informs me is I have to install a new windows update version, this requires a reboot. During the reboot, just as the windows screen loads it restarts by it'self, and the bios locks up. Using the power supply reboot method, it gave me a ovevoltage error and i was able to enter bios. All your settings were the same as before except Intel Temperature control was inabled (in cpu configuration) After turning this off and rebooting, windows asks me if i want to start windows normal, safe mode.. etc

I chose normal and now i get this error
System32/drivers/ntfs.sys is missing or corropted.

Im going to try and repair windows with my cd, but i dont want this error happening again

Help

Edit: i get those overvoltage errors when the post has read my ram as pc2-5300, with your settings in the bios

[Sparx]

Thickfog

Could you please give a sig of you rig, you know the parts? Maybe go to Usercp up top left on the page and enter in there then it will follow your posts and you won't have to re-enter it.

Do you by chance have a VOM meter?

I wonder if your power supply is providing strange voltages?
This is your second motherboard so we have to look elsewhere.

This PW5 is a good board and worth the effort, don't give up yet.
Edit: Also is there a way for you to check the CMOS battery and see if it is NOT dead? (VOM again sorry)
sparx

[ThickFog]

Thickfog

Could you please give a sig of you rig, you know the parts? Maybe go to Usercp up top left on the page and enter in there then it will follow your posts and you won't have to re-enter it.

Do you by chance have a VOM meter?

I wonder if your power supply is providing strange voltages?
This is your second motherboard so we have to look elsewhere.

This PW5 is a good board and worth the effort, don't give up yet.
Edit: Also is there a way for you to check the CMOS battery and see if it is NOT dead? (VOM again sorry)
sparx

Ya I think i got a VOM meter around here somewhere.. Ill go look for it.
So just unplug them all and test to see if the right voltages are right? which one do you expect is not working?

I also noticed the 2.00v for the ram is purple, and it wasnt purple before (to the best of my knowledge)

[Sparx]

I just want you to check the voltages coming out of the power supply when ALL cables are disconnnected from the mother board and drives etc.

What voltage is the RAM you have rated at, it has to take 2.0 volts?

Let me know when you find the meter.
Also you have the RAM in the orange slots correct? Also have you run with ONE stick of RAM?

Was it you that ran Memorytest 86 on the ram and got no errors?

Sorry for all the questions, this rig at default speed should be allowing you to install windows for criz sake.

sparx

[ThickFog]

I just want you to check the voltages coming out of the power supply when ALL cables are disconnnected from the mother board and drives etc.

What voltage is the RAM you have rated at, it has to take 2.0 volts?

Let me know when you find the meter.
Also you have the RAM in the orange slots correct? Also have you run with ONE stick of RAM?

Was it you that ran Memorytest 86 on the ram and got no errors?

Sorry for all the questions, this rig at default speed should be allowing you to install windows for criz sake.

sparx

Ya it wa me who ran memtest86 and found no errors, that is the only time I have booted with only one stick of ram

http://www.corsairmemory.com/corsair...X2048-6400.pdf
I found this on the corsair websight saying it is only tested at 1.9v I will change our ram voltges back to 1.9v

Yes they are both is the orange slots.

I will keep looking for a metter, and hopefully test it out.
The voltages in bios look ok though

[Sparx]

Ya it wa me who ran memtest86 and found no errors, that is the only time I have booted with only one stick of ram

http://www.corsairmemory.com/corsair...X2048-6400.pdf
I found this on the corsair websight saying it is only tested at 1.9v I will change our ram voltges back to 1.9v

Yes they are both is the orange slots.

I will keep looking for a metter, and hopefully test it out.
The voltages in bios look ok though

Well don't go by the BIOS voltages.
You will need to take a paper clip and find the green lead on the ATX connector and jumper it to any black wire on the same ATX connector. THEN turn on the power supply.

Read the 12 and 5 volts from any molex connector. (yellow blk 12 v Red blk 5v)
The 3.3 rail is read through the Orange and any black conductor or the ATX connector.

Also did you clear the CMOS after flashing to 1305?
Check to see the battery is good, when you remove it this will clear the CMOS BTW.

Just another thought, be sure the clear cmos jumper is not in the "clear" position, should be to the left side of the 3 pins.

[cmthomson]

I've been away for a while.

A couple of weeks ago someone asked if 2.3V was okay for G.Skill HZ memory running 24/7. Up until a couple of days ago I would have said yes. Now I know better: both my sticks died within a day of each other after 3 months of use.

[Sparx]

Sorry about the RAM.
sparx

[ThickFog]

Well don't go by the BIOS voltages.
You will need to take a paper clip and find the green lead on the ATX connector and jumper it to any black wire on the same ATX connector. THEN turn on the power supply.

Read the 12 and 5 volts from any molex connector. (yellow blk 12 v Red blk 5v)
The 3.3 rail is read through the Orange and any black conductor or the ATX connector.

Also did you clear the CMOS after flashing to 1305?
Check to see the battery is good, when you remove it this will clear the CMOS BTW.

Just another thought, be sure the clear cmos jumper is not in the "clear" position, should be to the left side of the 3 pins.

Surprisingly, I disabled fire wire, and the jimcon controller, and windows has loaded up fine, infarct i right this post from my computer.

I still think i will check out those voltages for, they still were the culprit for the bios lockups, that could return any time.

Thanks again

Edit: My mobo came with the 1305 bios, i never flashed them. is it worth updating to the 1503?

[cadaveca]

give it a whirl.

[pentium777]

Surprisingly, I disabled fire wire, and the jimcon controller, and windows has loaded up fine, infarct i right this post from my computer.

I still think i will check out those voltages for, they still were the culprit for the bios lockups, that could return any time.

Thanks again

Edit: My mobo came with the 1305 bios, i never flashed them. is it worth updating to the 1503?

Keep in mind it is still BETA, don't know how you feel with Beta bios. For me I'd rather just update my bios infrequently when I have no problems. The cold reboot is a pain however I don't have to reboot anymore except on rare occasion so I'm waiting on fully released 1503.

Oh and mine came with 1101 and has been fine with this bios.

[cuke2u]

Hi again, ok it's not the cat drivers as I'm stillgetting lockups in Fear. I've reset the memory to PC3200 but would really like to run it at PC6400. So anyone got an answer, is it timings or voltage of the modules?
ChrisC

[NghtShd]

Surprisingly, I disabled fire wire, and the jimcon controller, and windows has loaded up fine, infarct i right this post from my computer.

I still think i will check out those voltages for, they still were the culprit for the bios lockups, that could return any time.

When I ran my board with the 20-pin ATX connector I had problems with firewire and the jmicron controller. The jmicron seemed to work ok in certain configs, but if configed wrong the system wouldn't even post (even the video wouldn't init). In XP I would have 32 ieee1394 host controllers in device manager when using the 20-pin ATX.

I would check the voltage on the ATX connector pins 11, 12 and 23 (look here). If those are good then maybe the connector is bad.

[TWY]

I can't seem to find info on the following two settings: CPU Internal Thermal Control and DRAM Thermal Throttling.

Could anyone enlighten me?

[Sparx]

When I ran my board with the 20-pin ATX connector I had problems with firewire and the jmicron controller. The jmicron seemed to work ok in certain configs, but if configed wrong the system wouldn't even post (even the video wouldn't init). In XP I would have 32 ieee1394 host controllers in device manager when using the 20-pin ATX.

I would check the voltage on the ATX connector pins 11, 12 and 23 (look here). If those are good then maybe the connector is bad.

ThickFog
Glad you got it running.

Nghtshd, are you thinking the atx connector on the Power Supply is bad?
sparx

[DutchBBQ]

New: Intel Matrix Storage Manager 6.2.0.2002 WHQL BETA
Vista, XP compatible
Date: 29/09/2006

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/Oth...002-WHQL.shtml

[SKiLL3D]

New: Intel Matrix Storage Manager 6.2.0.2002 WHQL BETA
Vista, XP compatible
Date: 29/09/2006

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/Oth...002-WHQL.shtml

page not found

iLL

[cuke2u]

But no thanks really, so I'll cast the first stone....
Your post no 1 and its reference to Antec HE PSU's is out of date and should be removed.

Yes maybe early Antec's with certain Asus motherboards had issues, mainly the A8R-MVP, which didn't like modular PSU's. However Antec were humble enough and accepted replacing those that had problems.

Thing is you don't actually know who makes your PSU these days, it could be anybody, even Q-Tec, god forbid....

I know, for a fact, that the Neo HE 550 is actually made by Seasonic, mmmm, don't see many knocking them.

Evidence?

Here http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/370 if you care to read.

Now would somebody either help me or point me it right direction so my query is answered, please
Chrisc

[lawrywild]

page not found

iLL

same here

[GLENBOY]

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/Oth...002-WHQL.shtml

here you go Intel Matrix Storage Manager 6.2.0.2002 WHQL

[OldGuy]

But no thanks really, so I'll cast the first stone....
Your post no 1 and its reference to Antec HE PSU's is out of date and should be removed.

Yes maybe early Antec's with certain Asus motherboards had issues, mainly the A8R-MVP, which didn't like modular PSU's. However Antec were humble enough and accepted replacing those that had problems.

Thing is you don't actually know who makes your PSU these days, it could be anybody, even Q-Tec, god forbid....

I know, for a fact, that the Neo HE 550 is actually made by Seasonic, mmmm, don't see many knocking them.

Evidence?

Here http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/370 if you care to read.

Now would somebody either help me or point me it right direction so my query is answered, please
Chrisc

Drop yer multi and start pushing and testing the ram...no way to know to tell you to give it more voltage if you haven't thoroughly tested it and found the sweet spot yourself...take it out of the equation then you can look elsewhere (like drivers).