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Thread: Stupid Bubbles!!!!!

  1. #1
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    Angry Stupid Bubbles!!!!!

    Okay, I can't exactly post pics up right now so try to envision this in BTX style with my reservoir mounted in the top two 5.25" drive bays with this mount. Everything is lower than my reservoir and I still can't get rid of my bubbles!!! I've filled the res up to the brim, let it flush through the loop until it got low--which took half a second and one turn from the pump--filled it again to the brim and now have a complete loop of water running through my blocks and radiator, etc. The only problem is, all of these tiny, little bubbles will not disappear in the reservoir. I can't seem to get those little ****'s out of my loop.

    What am I doing wrong or am needing to do?
    "It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were stiking thirteen..."


    Quote Originally Posted by Xeon th MG Pony
    "Thermal"_"take" (i.e. they take a good idea, turn it into total crap, then over charge and add a blinking light, and thus you get the name "Thermale Take")

  2. #2
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    You mean they're just circling around in your loop? Try letting it run w/ the filler hole open. I'm not sure how that one works, but if it's like the aquatube, you might have to flip your case right?
    I had my aquatube mounted the same way. To get all the air out, I had to flip it back and forth a couple of times.

  3. #3
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    I've got one of the holes open at the top right now. The bubbles are circulating through my loop still. I've already turned my case every which way to try and get them out and they still persist.
    "It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were stiking thirteen..."


    Quote Originally Posted by Xeon th MG Pony
    "Thermal"_"take" (i.e. they take a good idea, turn it into total crap, then over charge and add a blinking light, and thus you get the name "Thermale Take")

  4. #4
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    let it sit, till the ones in the rez are gone, then run it, and let the rez fill up again with bubbles, let it sit, repeat, i your talking about waht i think you are, its kina like the bubbles in a glass of sprite?


    OT: your avatar .... why's it say batosai? batosai is from ruruni kenshin, that dude's name is abarai, and he's from bleach
    emptiness

  5. #5
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    yah misprint on avatar?

    can you still remove said res? if tubing is long enough try tilting it outside with the outlet being at the bottom and inlet on top, just like playing catch that bubble...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by trance565
    let it sit, till the ones in the rez are gone, then run it, and let the rez fill up again with bubbles, let it sit, repeat, i your talking about waht i think you are, its kina like the bubbles in a glass of sprite?
    Yes, they are like the bubbles in a glass of Sprite. There isn't just tiny bubbles in the reservoir, they're all in the tubes as well.


    OT: your avatar .... why's it say batosai? batosai is from ruruni kenshin, that dude's name is abarai, and he's from bleach
    Why does your sig have a gun being held up by a thong? And why does the chick not have a bra? That's a hot babe who's name is sexy, and she's from my school......LOL.

    No, Renji is the character from Bleach who's in my avatar. The person who drew that picture is Batosai.
    "It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were stiking thirteen..."


    Quote Originally Posted by Xeon th MG Pony
    "Thermal"_"take" (i.e. they take a good idea, turn it into total crap, then over charge and add a blinking light, and thus you get the name "Thermale Take")

  7. #7
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    ah artist name...

    try tapping your tubing with your fingers to make bubbles go up, this usually works for my tubing...

  8. #8
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    Just leave it running - over time they'll move along and gather in one place, then you can sort it easier...

  9. #9
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    I don't have a W/C system yet. But let's say, I will draw from my real life experience (although on a different scale).
    Those existing small micro bubbles must come out to prevent erosion of the pump impeller and corrosion of the metal parts. Also, their presence reduces the efficiency of your system considerably.

    1) You may want to consider running a closed loop with this small tank acting as an expansion tank. Will eliminate introducing new bubbles into the system and will increase your water flow considerably. There is no good reason to run cirulation using an open loop this way IMO.

    2) If you have circulate water through the tank, then consider that you need to prevent the short cut from the tank inlet to the tank outlet. Water must be allowed to slow considerably and for enough time so that air separates from the stream flow. If the two orifices are close to each other, water will take the short cut at high spead and carry the air with it. Extending tank outlet to the other side of the tank (using a tube inside the tank for example), with extend the travel time and force the water to use the full width of the tank. Alternatevly, a baffle parallel to the flow will force water to go all the way to one end before comming back. Obviously make sure that the tank outlet is below the baffle and the tank inlet is above.

    3) must eliminate any vortix inside the tank, otherwise new air bubbles will be created. The baffle explained above would help in this regard. Also, make sure that the tank inlet is below the water level. Don't want the water droping into the tank or creating waves on the surface in any way.

    4) with all that said, the use of a tank in this way may still require you to add a micro bubble separator because those micro bubbles are very hard to remove especially if the liquid is a bit viscous (additives?). They may need some help, ie a device that helps them accumulate together into bigger bubbles. May want to consider something like this for example. Don't know if it would fit your particular current setup. You may need some adaptors, but they do work.
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  10. #10
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    Connect your pump to a rheobus and run it at the lowest possible speed (with the rest of the PC turned off).
    I've found this gives you larger, slower moving bubbles to remove rather than the churned froth found at higher flowrates.
    Once bled, your mini-bubble problem should be gone.
    If not, there is something wrong with your rez design/install.

  11. #11
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    Just leave it running, they will work themselves out. I found with a res it took less time a few hours maybe. With a Tline it takes about 10 hours till the bubbles are gone.

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by meshmesh


    Water must be allowed to slow considerably and for enough time so that air separates from the stream flow. If the two orifices are close to each other, water will take the short cut at high spead and carry the air with it.
    I think this is your problem I looked at your res and If I know you you probably used the holes in the back to hook up to the rest of your system. So you water inlet and outlet are on the same level and spaced about an inch apart. The water isn't using the full res it is just going right in and right out and that doesn't leave much room to get rid of bubbles. If I where you I would use the holes in the back and on the side of the res. Use one for inlet and the other side for outlet so they are spaced farther apart and on different levels.

  13. #13
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    like the design of the mcres-micro, with top barb inlet and bottom barb outlet
    and a splittin panel to trap air bubbles...

  14. #14
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    I'm using nik's RES. (same style as your res.) make sure you have side plugs facing ceiling (for bay mount only) so you can fill and bleed with it, maybe take some pictures of your bubbles and I think it takes less than 30min for my res. to clear all the bubbles

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdkevin
    I'm using nik's RES. (same style as your res.) make sure you have side plugs facing ceiling (for bay mount only) so you can fill and bleed with it, maybe take some pictures of your bubbles and I think it takes less than 30min for my res. to clear all the bubbles
    How do you have it setup? Which holes are you inputing and outputing through?

  16. #16
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    I'm doing my first loop this weekend too, I hope I dont have similiar issue.
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  17. #17
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    For Bay Mount: 3 holes should be vertical so middle hole for inlet and bottom hole for outlet

  18. #18
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    This is my first cooler, so I can't really say that I'm right. But that's the res I'm using, and I used all the holes.

    I have the side holes facing down, which puts the rear holes horizontally positioned. I don't have a digital camera, so I'll have to explain it.

    Bottom/Front : Leads down to pump
    Bottom/Middle: Temp Sensor
    Bottom/Rear: 90deg Elbow fitting, leads up to a fillport on the top of the case

    Rear/Left: 90Deg Elbow fitting with 90 Deg elbow barb epoxied into it inside the res with a small hose length that acts as a vent tube to the top of the res. This also goes up to a fill-port on top.
    Rear/Middle: LED
    Rear/Right: Loop Input

    So, at the end of the day I have a glorified T-line that costs a lot more. For some reason I like that. I haven't noticed an excess of bubbles, but I haven't actually run the loop with heat in it (beyond the pump dump).

    I could have merged the fill/vent lines if the rear ports had been on the same axis as the side ports, but for some reason they weren't. I didn't really feel like hacking the res, as some epoxy and cheap fittings fixed the problem.


    P.s. Thanks to Marci and everyone on this forum for providing such a great resource for learning.

  19. #19
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    Okay, here are some pictures of the bubbles that plague my loop:







    I thought about using one of the side holes for an outake and the back one for an intake in the reservoir, but that will have to change the way I give water to the loop. I'll mess around with it a bit more.

    For those who said to let it run for a while and they'll work themselves out, I did the same thing with my other reservoir--the one that can come with the Laing Ultra and is positioned directly on top of it--and the bubbles never went away. I think it does have something to do with the intake/outake flow in the res. like others have suggested. I'll see what I can do.
    "It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were stiking thirteen..."


    Quote Originally Posted by Xeon th MG Pony
    "Thermal"_"take" (i.e. they take a good idea, turn it into total crap, then over charge and add a blinking light, and thus you get the name "Thermale Take")

  20. #20
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    don't forget to give the bubbles an 'out' in the reservoir.

    you might have the cap open but if the water goes all the way up to the hole, it's essentially as good as sealed.

    first, seal everything up, and turn your case around enough times to get air out of your radiator.

    then -
    bring the res's water level down to about 3/4 and then run it with the top plug off.

  21. #21
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    btw - how's the color of that mount compared to your anodized black case?

    i was one click away from getting the same res / mount but it looked like performance-pcs just spraypainted the face plate...

  22. #22
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    have you clean your res. before using it? I guess you didn't clean your res. before using it, you need to clean every parts before using it. This is my res. w/ white led so it looks like smoke in there


  23. #23
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    I've switched the reservoir so that my res's intake--incoming water--is at the back of the res. and the res's outake--outgoing water--is at the bottom. I switched the res's three plugs to face the ground instead of teh ceiling and the bottom back one is providing water to the pump.

    THERE'S STILL THOSE ******* BUBBLES IN MY LINES!!!!

    Why is this such a tedious process with a reservoir? From what I hear they are supposed to bleed out the bubbles in a matter of minuets/seconds when placed above everything else. I've never had a loop without these little ****'s.

    How would cleaning my reservoir prevent air from getting in there? It wasn't dirty to begin with and all I did was fill it. I've cleaned my blocks and my radiator with venigar but the reservoir didn't seem to need that. It is also a royal pain to try and fill this thing.
    "It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were stiking thirteen..."


    Quote Originally Posted by Xeon th MG Pony
    "Thermal"_"take" (i.e. they take a good idea, turn it into total crap, then over charge and add a blinking light, and thus you get the name "Thermale Take")

  24. #24
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    how long have you had it running? The bubbles ran out of my setup with a res but not the same as you within a hour or so

  25. #25
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    With the first run I had it going all night (~10 hours)
    "It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were stiking thirteen..."


    Quote Originally Posted by Xeon th MG Pony
    "Thermal"_"take" (i.e. they take a good idea, turn it into total crap, then over charge and add a blinking light, and thus you get the name "Thermale Take")

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