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Thread: Who can build 2x high performance 7950GX2 copper GPU block?

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Who can build 2x high performance 7950GX2 copper GPU block?

    I was wondering if anyone knew anyone else, or is able to build a pair of custom high performance copper GPU blocks for a single 7950GX2.

    The only blocks (that I know of) that will fit in a 7950GX2 are:
    1) The Aqua-Computer aquagrafx 7950GX2
    2) The Thermaltake Tide Water Plus' GPU blocks

    In GoriLLakoS 7950GX2 review thread, he measured the space between the two cards and its about 1.5cm.
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...hlight=7950gx2

    1.5cm is about 0.59 inches, so 7/16" ID tubing with a small thickness will fit. The greatest challenge is obviously building the block :P

    Something like Shamino's custom GPU blocks (but for watercooling of couse ) would be nice.
    http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=3743



    Im not a expert in waterblocks, but I think this could be a possible solution.
    Since water cant be bursted from the top, it has to be from the side to fit in between the cards.
    The water busts from one side, the resistance from the pins and the L shape takes off the heat, and then exits from the other side.
    Waterblock experts: what would the best design be?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turok
    Something like Shamino's custom GPU blocks (but for watercooling of couse ) would be nice.
    http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=3743
    I'm not sure I understood this comment , because those are for watercooling.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Makubex_GB
    I'm not sure I understood this comment , because those are for watercooling.
    Doh. I thought they were part of the automated Dry-Ice system
    It would of had Insulation anyway
    But it doesnt have pins in it, just a restrictive wall. Doesnt it make it more restrictive and less efficient?

    Anyway, do you know anyone that can build custom blocks?
    If I dont have any luck finding a good WC solution, I will have to buy a "Thermaltake Tide Water Plus".
    That watercooling kit isnt top-noth, but it performs well as a dedicated GPU cooler for only about $70-$80.
    2x GPU blocks cost about that. I guess I will improve watever I get from the "Tide Water Plus", like changeing the tubeing to shorter transparent tubes
    Last edited by Turok; 06-26-2006 at 07:11 PM.

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    Well supposedly AC is working on these:



    So if you can wait a little I'm sure something will come up.

    You could also ask EK, I just know he's gonna come up with a waterblock for the GX2 pretty soon.
    Last edited by Makubex_GB; 06-26-2006 at 09:18 PM.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Makubex_GB
    You could also ask EK, I just know he's is gonna come up with a waterblock for the GX2 pretty soon.
    Its already been designed, just a question of manufacture afaik.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Makubex_GB
    Well supposedly AC is working on these:


    So if you can wait a little I'm sure something will come up.

    You could also ask EK, I just know he's gonna come up with a waterblock for the GX2 pretty soon.
    Well, I already mentioned this block on my first post in this thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Turok
    The only blocks (that I know of) that will fit in a 7950GX2 are:
    1) The Aqua-Computer aquagrafx 7950GX2
    2) The Thermaltake Tide Water Plus' GPU blocks
    You did give me a person, tho.
    Who's EK? Is that an abreviation or is that his account name in XS?



    BTW, I have another question.
    Will the Thermaltake Tide Water Plus perform better in a improved loop for itself, or will I get a huge performance difference by making the two GPU blocks from both cards part of my 1/2" loop?

    Wouldnt performance be better with a Tide Water Plus because of the short distance if I replace the tubes, and because the loop will be independent from the CPU cooling and wont be as restricted in flow?

    The Tide Water Plus is connected in parallel with 2x Y-fittings.
    Will performance be better if I modify that cooler to a series?
    Im guessing it should.
    Last edited by Turok; 06-27-2006 at 02:07 AM.

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    It's difficult to design such a block with such a small thickness between the cards. I might be able to do something on my CNC, but it's gonna be very difficult because I'll have to spread out the surface area in order to increase flow because there isn't as much workable space to begin with, with normal cards this wouldn't be an issue. But with a half-inch to work with, it gets real difficult to design a high-performance block with such a limited space.

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    One could always be made with heatpipes, although chances are it would be expensive.

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    Both expensive and dangerous, you have to create a vacum before you seal the pipe, and that can get risky, especially if you have a leak...I would stick to 2 blocks IMO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Makubex_GB
    Well supposedly AC is working on these:



    So if you can wait a little I'm sure something will come up.

    You could also ask EK, I just know he's gonna come up with a waterblock for the GX2 pretty soon.

    Do you know if Aquacomputer is making those with their standard G1/8 threads? If they produced these in delrin with wider channels and 1/4" fittings it may be an option for those with the 7950's.
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    they're G1/8 and alu. that sucks i'd say

    @Turok
    pm SSilencer or Unseen for help. i'm also going to design that kind of blocks, so we can cooperate probably to reduce the price

  12. #12
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    Alu : No problem
    G1/8 : Well , my dual-Laing should be able to handle it.

    Maybe I own a GF 7950 GX" in two weeks time. The Aqua-Computer waterblock would be the first choice for me.
    Okay , there are no other realistic alternatives yet... ^^
    sry but my english will never be as good as yours !

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  13. #13
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    hm... why not normal sli?
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  14. #14
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    One of those cards costs 370€ in germany, doesn´t need a SLI board , ...
    sry but my english will never be as good as yours !

    greetz from Germany !

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    It's a pain to manufacture because there's so few that people will actually want it. Custom CNC would be the way to go.

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    Something tells me that it`s easier to make longer inner bridge and make this card triple-slot and use existing blocks

    Sorry for OT

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooper
    Something tells me that it`s easier to make longer inner bridge and make this card triple-slot and use existing blocks

    Sorry for OT
    You might be able to pick up another bridge cable and link it in some way, which would do what you're trying to do...Then use longer standoffs. Or, if the cable is long enough already, just use longer standoffs, that way you can mount 2 standard blocks.

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    bridge in 7950GX2 is not the same as usual SLI bridge

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    Well, I know I'm not the most knowledgeable person here, but by looking at the recent designs from DD and Eddy_EK, the amount of surface area necessary is not as high as we all may think. When I opened up my Maze4 GPU, there was almost nothing in there to promote turbulence.

    In all things you want to get surface area in contact with water, and turbulence is good, cavitation and stagnant water is not. (Forgive me, I swear I'm going somewhere with this.) So, considering as well that these are mobile GPUs, which are picked cause they do create somewhat less heat, a simple channel for the RAM chips and a maze of some type for the core should be more than sufficient. The issue is how to get it all in there. If you wanted to negate the pressure drop of a required smaller diameter in the vertical, expand the horizontal to have an ovoid shape, so that you can keep the same area and lower the profile. If you do that, then all it needs is a z-turn and a few fins in the channel and it's in business. A high-pressure pin-fin design would probably KILL most setups (and we all don't have Iwakis, ya know) but a simple open-bend maze would be a good balance of enough restriction to enable heat transfer yet free enough that a pair of them won't completely overcome your pump.

    If you look at the NV78 and such, the designs are very similar, just bigger. Working in Delrin with a thin copper bottom should make the idea feasible. I'll try and draw up a representation of what i'm talking about, cause I feel like I might not have made it clear enough.

    If I've got this wrong, let me know, I'm teaching myself to design waterblocks (my first was crude, but held my 3000+ at 2.7 for quite a while) and I want to learn from my mistakes. It would seem to me that it's little different from designing musical instruments, which I did in college.

    Anyways, I'll try to make up a sketch of what I mean and hopefully that will clear things up. I'm no machinist, but I think I can make a design that won't murder them...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooper
    bridge in 7950GX2 is not the same as usual SLI bridge
    No, I know that, I thought it was flexible?
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    Here's what I came up with, feel free to tear me a new one if it's not a good idea...

    Or point out what's wrong so I can work on it. I'll learn from either.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  22. #22
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    That's teh right idea....I would make the entire maze a rectangle, and just do a pin grid array that's spaced out...Just a suggestion. Those right angles seem too restrictive given the design, I would make them either rounded or angled to achieve better flow through the block.
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  23. #23
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    Well, this was a rough idea. I think it should also extend out and get the bridge chip-the Rialto and others did run rather warm...

    If you want me to, tonight I can actually do a REAL design, not a five minute jobby, and fix the bends. I know they were wrong, but I had to work in Paint, instead of PS, which is what I normally use to draw anything...

    Pins seemed to me to be a bit too restrictive, but in this circumstance would they be more effective? I'm looking at real-world setups, and not going off the idea of some far-off ideal. In the real world, some of us still use pond pumps cause they're cheap and readily available. I'm going for an Everyman setup, so to speak.

    Let me know, cause I do know how to fix those bends properly, it wouldn't take much at all...

  24. #24
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    man! why overcomplicate it? i would make it a bit simplier, looks restrictive!
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    I'm gonna take that as encouragement and go find my protractor.

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