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Thread: I want to mod my Saitek P3000 gamepad

  1. #1
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    I want to mod my Saitek P3000 gamepad

    Hi all I've got two Saitek P3000 900Mhz wireless gamepads and I want to use both of them together.

    This would be easy if I was in the States cos over there they have an A/B switch to change channels.

    I'm living in the UK and my gamepads don't have the A/B switch. I got in touch with Saitek and they say due to licensing restrictions they couldn't sell the gamepad with two channels on the 900Mhz band in my country. They said I should return the pads for a newer model which is 2.4Ghz where the restriction doesn't apply. This will be difficult as the first one I've got is out of warranty and the second one I just got off Ebay

    I've opened the base station up and can see where I need to solder the switch. I can see a crystal on the pcb, together with a spot just underneath where another crystal might go (X302). On the rear of the pcb it looks like a trimmer/potentiometer/variable capacitor is missing (CB2) and two surface mount capacitors/resistors (CB1 and R305).

    Could somebody open up their P3000 receiver (really easy - three screws and then pop off the silver section to get the pcb out) and maybe post some photos of the 900Mhz US version, so I can see what's different about the components. I can't see there's gonna be any radical differences which a soldering iron can't put right lol

    Also, how do you folks in the states change the a/b channels on the gamepad? I've sort of made out you do it with the analog/digital buttons. I'm wondering if a mod needs to be done to the actual gamepad as well....

    PS: Just found out last night you can slide off the cover of the battery packs Nowhere in any review have I seen this mentioned - they all seem to think the battery packs are non-standard. Inside the battery packs are 2 AAAM NIMH cells which are easy to replace. One of my packs wasn't charging so I took a look inside and fixed it by scraping off some sort of corrosion around one of the terminals, which fixed the problem. I can see the potential here to make a battery pack that takes AAA cells instead of AAAM for longer gamepad playing time!
    Last edited by Frogmelon; 11-11-2005 at 08:36 AM.
    Sears/Atari "Pong" - Ingersoll Pong clone - Atari VCS "Heavy Sixer" - Atari VCS "Light Sixer" - Acetronic MPU 1000 - Taito Crazy Balloon :banana::banana::banana::banana:tail - Atari Asteroids Cabaret - Mattel Intellivision - ZX81 - Spectrum 16k - Spectrum 48k - Spectrum +2 - Commodore 64 - Atari 520ST - Commodore Amiga 500 - Athlon XP 2500 at 2.31Ghz, ABIT AN7 TicTac BIOS, Radeon 9700 pro at 425/360, 2xCorsair XMS 3200 at 230, 2xWestern Digital 120Gb SATA RAID

  2. #2
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    hmm.. I'd be glad to help ya if I had one of those, but maybe they will take em back and upgrade ya for a smaller price than the new gamepad itself, even though the warranty is out, seeing as this, I dont think is a "warranty" replacement anyways.. they may just swap ya, just cuz your a customer some companys still are nice... occasionally..
    AMD Athlon 64 3700+ @ 300x10________15" Macbook Pro
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  3. #3
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    I replied to Saitek support saying they were out of warranty therefore could not really take them back to the shop, but would I be able to return them direct to the manufacturer - no reply yet. They would be very nice people if they did lol

    I'm guessing on the US version the switch on the receiver simply switches between the two crystals - hence two frequencies/channels. I'm tempted to open up the gamepad to see if there's a matching crystal. All I'd really need to do if that was the case is replace the crystals in both receiver and gamepad with crystals of a different frequency. I'll keep you posted once I've opened the gamepad.
    Sears/Atari "Pong" - Ingersoll Pong clone - Atari VCS "Heavy Sixer" - Atari VCS "Light Sixer" - Acetronic MPU 1000 - Taito Crazy Balloon :banana::banana::banana::banana:tail - Atari Asteroids Cabaret - Mattel Intellivision - ZX81 - Spectrum 16k - Spectrum 48k - Spectrum +2 - Commodore 64 - Atari 520ST - Commodore Amiga 500 - Athlon XP 2500 at 2.31Ghz, ABIT AN7 TicTac BIOS, Radeon 9700 pro at 425/360, 2xCorsair XMS 3200 at 230, 2xWestern Digital 120Gb SATA RAID

  4. #4
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    cant help you but your sig is way too long just thought id point it out
    i9-10900k@5.3ghz//MSI MEG z490 Unify//32GB Gskill TridentZ b.die@DDR4666//RTX 2080ti(+150/+700) kingpin bios//Samsung 970 Pro//Corsair AX1200i
    Custom Loop: Dual DDCs->Dual EK XE360 w/GT's -> HK IV CPU -> HK IV GPU ->EK X3 Res controlled by Aquaero 6

  5. #5
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    Nooooo I need to add more stuff! More more! Yeah ok I will cut the pointless stuff (tm) out of it lol
    Sears/Atari "Pong" - Ingersoll Pong clone - Atari VCS "Heavy Sixer" - Atari VCS "Light Sixer" - Acetronic MPU 1000 - Taito Crazy Balloon :banana::banana::banana::banana:tail - Atari Asteroids Cabaret - Mattel Intellivision - ZX81 - Spectrum 16k - Spectrum 48k - Spectrum +2 - Commodore 64 - Atari 520ST - Commodore Amiga 500 - Athlon XP 2500 at 2.31Ghz, ABIT AN7 TicTac BIOS, Radeon 9700 pro at 425/360, 2xCorsair XMS 3200 at 230, 2xWestern Digital 120Gb SATA RAID

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