Bong Designs

**n00b 0f l337** · 10-31-2005, 07:03 PM

Lets discuss some idea's for towers and evap sploogers and agricultural evapers. Anyone got an idea post it up and we can work on it. I dunno, run some ideas and keep it cheap, cold, and cool. So here's a basic tower idea. Lets see were we can go with it.

*Just trying to spark some interest people, evaporative cooling kicks ass*
*and once again, also still working on that guide for those who want to join in the fun*

**ZX7891** · 10-31-2005, 07:19 PM

What Is That Arrow For I Dont Comprehend?

**n00b 0f l337** · 10-31-2005, 07:22 PM

That would be were your fan intakes. The forced air helps convect heat out and help with evaporation. Multiple fans can help but mostly you dont need much cfm and a delta at 5 volts works fine! Even 80mm fans work!

...all covered in the guide! I gotta finish it for you guys! ...stupid school work...

**Andrew** · 10-31-2005, 07:27 PM

Here is one of my first designs for a dual loop bong. The fan is in the tank so that the air has to go through the wet warm fins of the heater core. It made a world of difference.

**n00b 0f l337** · 10-31-2005, 07:30 PM

Ah your doing dual loop... Why? I'm going to have to test both. I think thats just seting another level of things for the cooling effect to have to spread thru. That may also be why your room was so humid. Your throwing all the heat in a consolidated area and having the water fall onto it. Now if your actual heat fell, you'd get better temps I think.
Good solid design though. Also did the splitting of the line hurt your temps? Wouldn't series not hurt your pump so much?

**Andrew** · 10-31-2005, 07:39 PM

First the cooling loop of the PC was just for the drawing not reality. And as stated in the other bong thread, having two loops allows for you to add additives to your PC cooling water that will not be evaporated into to air. Do you really want to breathe vaporized Zerex or Water Wetter?

**JuanFlaiter** · 10-31-2005, 07:47 PM

I can beta test it. Where do I put my mouth? =D

**carmelo** · 10-31-2005, 08:14 PM

Originally Posted by Andrew

Here is one of my first designs for a dual loop bong. The fan is in the tank so that the air has to go through the wet warm fins of the heater core. It made a world of difference.

I think if I were to ever do something along these lines, and work with a similar design to this. It would allow for us of good blocks which may be hungry for good flow.

Even if the water was warm .. woudnt the fall from the top help cool the water down ?

I will have a spare rad around christmass time ... I may actually try a design similar to this. I really only want to so I can have some ambiant waterfall sounds coming from my office. Its soothing.

**Aphex_Tom_9** · 10-31-2005, 09:17 PM

Originally Posted by Andrew

Here is one of my first designs for a dual loop bong. The fan is in the tank so that the air has to go through the wet warm fins of the heater core. It made a world of difference.

that seems like you're just putting in an unecessary extra step in the heat transfer process. why not just forget the HC?

**phextwin** · 10-31-2005, 09:39 PM

One of the best i have ever seen is Volenti's chuxevap. It is simply magnificent in its simplicity.

**carmelo** · 10-31-2005, 09:43 PM

Originally Posted by Aphex_Tom_9

that seems like you're just putting in an unecessary extra step in the heat transfer process. why not just forget the HC?

He explains it better in the other bong post. For those who may have a block like the storm that uses small jets dont want to see them clogged with things that may end up in your bong cooler, due to some part of it being exposed. Also people want to run water additives in there loop and would most likley not want to breath in antifreeze all day, not to mention is harmfull.

**PkG.1337** · 10-31-2005, 10:07 PM

add some more fan,HIGH CFM, the water fell is ganna make noise anyways.

**Andrew** · 10-31-2005, 11:11 PM

Originally Posted by PkG.1337

add some more fan,HIGH CFM, the water fell is ganna make noise anyways.

No need. One of the great things about evap cooling is that it does not need a bunch of CFMs, just air flow. You can take an undervolted 80mm fan on a 3ft bong and get good cooling. You do have to add surface area to the inside of the bong. (Plastic scrubbies, a bunched up sheet of plastic screen, brass mesh, ping-pong balls, etc)

If you add too many CFMs you will start to have water blow out of the top of the bong. You will also drop the temps below dew point (which is raised due to the bong added humidity in the air) which means that you will have to insulate around the blocks like the TEC people do.

**Andrew** · 10-31-2005, 11:24 PM

Originally Posted by Aphex_Tom_9

that seems like you're just putting in an unecessary extra step in the heat transfer process. why not just forget the HC?

Having the water run over the heater core makes the heater core work better. Water is many times better at pulling the heat from the core than air is.

Also by having the air go through the heater core you are also utilizing all of the surface area of the heater core fins for evaporation. You do need a little more air pressure than a standard bong but not much.

**Andrew** · 11-01-2005, 12:17 AM

Here is another design. This was for something that could almost be called wall art. A bong doesn't have to be just an ugly white PVC pipe!

It was basically a 4' x 3' x 4" box with a plexi front and solid back. the water would run through the pipe at the top and come out the small holes. The surface area was going to be some sort of curragated copper or a mesh. Something that would highlight the water flowing down it - maybe internal lighting. I had two fans pulling in air but not sure if that would be over kill.

I never did get around to doing it, so I never refined the design. I still needed a way to hide the hoses and wiring.

**n00b 0f l337** · 11-01-2005, 03:43 AM

Yes volenti is truly the master of it. I've been workng on a design like his actually.

**Mr. Tinker** · 11-01-2005, 06:19 AM

Is there a way to close up the system and let the evaporated water condense and cool at a high point, say on a cool dome structure, then slowly drip back in? Maybe that would just bring temps back up to ambient.

**Gimmpy224** · 11-01-2005, 06:25 AM

kind of an interesting concept ^_^

never heard of something like this before but sounds pretty awesome.

**Andrew** · 11-01-2005, 07:22 AM

Mr. Tinker,
You would have to have one of Chilly1's cascades cooling the dome so it takes away from the simplicty and low power of bongs. Evaporative cooling takes out alot of heat and that heat has to go somewhere or you are just going to heat everything up.

**Gimmpy224** · 11-01-2005, 07:48 AM

dosnt that defeat the purpose then? cause you can just use the cascade to cool.

EDIT::::

but I guess that the bong would make it to were you would possibly not have to insulate everything.

BUT another thing, if your just looking for a way to cool efficiently then I wouldnt do it, but since im mainly in it for fun and "exploration" and im sure many of you are ^_^ then im going to try it out

**Holst** · 11-01-2005, 08:00 AM

One thing to remember is that a bons is very cheap to make!!
Cheaper than any heatercore, and with better performance.

I have my own design that im tempted to rebuild, so many projects to little time.

**Andrew** · 11-01-2005, 08:29 AM

Originally Posted by Gimmpy224

dosnt that defeat the purpose then? cause you can just use the cascade to cool.

Yes, it does. Trying to make a closed loop evaporation system would be rough, but it can be done. A great example is heatpipes.

Originally Posted by Holst

I have my own design that im tempted to rebuild, so many projects to little time

LOL, it is always the old time vs money fight. Need a job to have money, but if you have a job then you don't have the time. I guess that is what a wife is for!

**carmelo** · 11-01-2005, 08:29 AM

How hot does the water get normally? What if you placed that heatercore inside the water? Not have the water run through it, but fully submerge it.

**Andrew** · 11-01-2005, 08:38 AM

Actually the water stays quite cool and putting the core in the water is fine. You just have to have a way for the water to flow through the core. I have a design that does exactly that. It used a 'water shroud' on the core. Give me a little time to either dig it up or do a quick paint session.

Edit: Here you go

**carmelo** · 11-01-2005, 10:34 AM

Originally Posted by Andrew

Actually the water stays quite cool and putting the core in the water is fine. You just have to have a way for the water to flow through the core. I have a design that does exactly that. It used a 'water shroud' on the core. Give me a little time to either dig it up or do a quick paint session.

Edit: Here you go

This seems like something I may be willing to try if Noob isnt come winter time. I would most likely use 1 DC pump for the regular water cooling ... and a decent fountain pump for the bong portion. Just wondering .. Could gold fish survive in the bottom portion of the bong cooler? lol

I need to get a socket a waterblock and chipset block for my soyo dragon mobo. Its my workstation comp and prolly what Ill try this out on.

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