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Thread: Is there a way to get the HIGHER multipliers?

  1. #1
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    Is there a way to get the HIGHER multipliers?

    I know you can close an L5 to get access to the lower multipliers, but my problem is just the opposite.

    Got a JUIHB 1700+, and with my ram (infineon PC2100) I can only get a 178 FSB.

    So I'm going to max out at 12.5 x 178 = 2225 Mhz. and from what I've seen, with enough voltage, and watercooled, they'll do way more than that.

    So I really really need access to a 13 or 13.5 multiplier... can this be done?

  2. #2
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    From a post below:
    Changing 8X Bit Value's LO to a HI.
    Palomino's L10 bridge pair will be Closed/Open L to R. Tbred's rightmost 5th L3 bridge will be Closed.
    General solution is to reset that signal circuit HI. Options:-
    1:- Tbreds, open the closed 5th L3 bridge.

    Riiiiiiiighttt... so, short of a laser, WTF do I do to open that bridge?

  3. #3
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    cut the bridge (not deep obviously)
    "it is better to be thought of as an idiot, than to open your mouth and prove it"

  4. #4
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    isn't there a pin-trick for this, or am i confused again?

  5. #5
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    motherboard with nforce2 dont solve this problem?
    Updating...

  6. #6
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    well one way to "break" the link is to "fry" it with something like a 9v battery and with the help of needles to get the curretn to go throu the link. might work, but not sure.

    -
    gooFly

  7. #7
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    Oh, sorry, this is on an A7V333, by the way. I'm sure an NForce2 would solve the problem, but so would just buying a faster CPU in the first place

    I've heard of the current trick, but only ever seen it done on the old ceramic tbirds... does it still work on the XPs?

  8. #8
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    I've blown the L3s on a couple of xp2400s using two 1.5v D cell batteries in series wired to needles,it's worked fine.One was
    brown,the other green.The brown blown bridge was visible,
    the one on the green,you wouldn't know it was there

  9. #9
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    Hmm... now it's kinda tempting, but this is the only JIUHB 1700+ we've got left in the shop... I'd hate to kill it :-\

  10. #10
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    yeah,it's worrying,isn't it I hadn't been able to find confirmation
    on whether it would work on an xp,that's why I used 1.5v cells,I
    tried a single one first,didn't work,so I tried two = 3v and it did!
    Didn't want to use the psu 5v in case it fried my nice new xp2400!
    But try at your own risk!

  11. #11
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    Do the D-cells put out more amps, or could I use two AA batteries instead?

  12. #12
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    I got a problem With My IWill XP333r/2400+ the bios says it supports x15 multiplier. After a lot of messing around and some help across at Amdmb. The way too post is unlock via #5 L3 put fsb jumper to 100 (default), set multi for anything below 12.5 and were good to go. Cool. That is untill we wanna go a bit further. We need those higher multis. Can I asume that if I set my multi for 13/14/15 shut down puter. Remove cpu wipe off unlock replace, set fsb to 133 and boot. Will this work do you think? Seeing as the reason we XP333r's had to unlock too post in the first place was the 2400 default multi is x15 and the bios only went to x15.
    Last edited by loggan26; 02-05-2003 at 10:57 PM.

  13. #13
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    loggan26, welcome to the Xtreme!

    you may get more help by posting your question in a new thread.

    gyro, let me get this straight. i can burn out the 5th L3 bridge by running 3v through the 2 pads connected by the bridge? how many times have you done this?

  14. #14
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    I burnt the 2nd L3 on two xp2400s,which "turns them into"
    xp2600s.It was the only sure way to get a decent o/c on my
    MSI turbo2 mobo.I'd read about it in various places,people
    have used the psu 5v or even 12v to do this
    but it's worrying putting 5v or 12v through a chip rated to
    2v or whatever it is,especially the 0.13 micron ones.Someone
    suggested using a lower voltage higher current cell just to be safe,as it's the heat generated by shorting the cell that blows the bridge,not the voltage.
    So I tried 1 D cell,didn't work,then 2 and it did.The bridge on
    the brown xp *really* burnt,it was very visible,I hadn't done
    this before so I was worried,but it booted up fine.On the
    green xp,I couldn't see anything afterwards,I though it maybe
    hadn't burnt it,but booted up and it was a 2600.It's maybe
    because of the plasticky coating on the greenies.
    These are the only two that I've done,you just touch the
    needles to the ends of the bridge for a split-second.
    I wouldn't advise doing this,for all I know I might have got
    lucky!
    Has anyone else got more info? I know there are people who
    use this method all the time.If it works it's so much simpler than
    cutting through,and it looks like you could join the bridge
    again easily,although I haven't tried this yet.
    As I say,do it at your own risk! Or search o/c boards,google for
    more info on the subject.I won't be doing it again in hurry
    (Well maybe with a cheaper chip....)

  15. #15
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    here's one reference to the method,with pix:
    http://www.overclockers.com/tips726/
    He's using 5v from the psu,and remember that's a Duron
    he's talking about!

  16. #16
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    Originally posted by loggan26
    I got a problem With My IWill XP333r/2400+ the bios says it supports x15 multiplier. After a lot of messing around and some help across at Amdmb. The way too post is unlock via #5 L3 put fsb jumper to 100 (default), set multi for anything below 12.5 and were good to go. Cool. That is untill we wanna go a bit further. We need those higher multis. Can I asume that if I set my multi for 13/14/15 shut down puter. Remove cpu wipe off unlock replace, set fsb to 133 and boot. Will this work do you think? Seeing as the reason we XP333r's had to unlock too post in the first place was the 2400 default multi is x15 and the bios only went to x15.
    Yes it might work. For more info see our Workarounds article at
    <a href="http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm">
    http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm</a>
    John C.

  17. #17
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    next time i take my XP1800 T-Bred out i'll contemplate doing this mod.

    although, i don't know exactly how it would work, my current motherboard doesn't support multipilers above 12.5(even though a 13, 14 and 15 are listed in the BIOS).

    good info gyro, thanks!!

  18. #18
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    I just did this mod... had to blow the 1st and 3rd L3 bridges to get it to look like a 2200+, though. My board didn't like the 19 multiplier :p

  19. #19
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    makes me wonder if my MSI K7T Turbo LE would work at all with the higher multipliers.

  20. #20
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    I just cut the last L3 on my xp2600+ and I have full multiplier control on an nf2 mobo. (bottom L3 when looking at the chip with AMD at the native position.)
    xp2100+@2550mhz 2.03v 210fsb
    Abit nf7-s v1.2
    ATI R9700
    2x512mb Cprsair pc3500 c2
    Dual Channel!!!!!WOOT
    SATA raid on 80gig maxtors
    highest 3dmark 19300
    3dmark2k1

  21. #21
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    Schitzo.. do you still have full multiplier control from 13x and up?

    I am contemplating this mod, but dont want to be stuck at only 1 multiplier 8-/

    All along the watchtower the watchmen watch the eternal return.

  22. #22
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    Originally posted by STEvil
    Schitzo.. do you still have full multiplier control from 13x and up?

    I am contemplating this mod, but dont want to be stuck at only 1 multiplier 8-/
    Yessir, I do. It booted at 13.5, but I can change it up and down. right now I'm at 13 x 166, or 2800+.

    it's priming stable, so i'll have to go higher

  23. #23
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    Sweet.

    Time to blow some bridges me thinks 8-)

    EDIT

    I think I might try and make it look like a 2100+.. I want that 13 multi 8-)
    Last edited by STEvil; 02-08-2003 at 10:04 PM.

    All along the watchtower the watchmen watch the eternal return.

  24. #24
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    That's not a bad idea, actually, since it's one less bridge to blow. one less chance to screw something up

  25. #25
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    yeah, just blow l5 4&5.. instant 2100+ 8-)

    All along the watchtower the watchmen watch the eternal return.

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