Updated: 1300 Mhz, 32M Stable. 2.45 volts. Asus 680i. Mushkin PC6400. 56k Warning.

[Kunaak]

I been testing the Asus P5N32-E SLI board pretty much non stop every hour for the last 2 days to figure out how to get the best OC from it, and what works and what doesnt and where to get things stable... and basically just trying to figure out the quirks of the board, and how to work around them.

so far, there are a few drawbacks, but nothing that would make me reconsider my buy in this board, it's a excellent board, and should only get better with additional bios updates. easily better then my P5WDH, and almost better then my P5B Deluxe... I am still very drawn between both boards. the P5B OC's better on FSB, but does worse on ram OC's.
the 680i does really good on the FSB, but not as good as the P5B, but is definatly in its own league when it comes to ram tweaking.
so I really cant say what boards better... it really comes down to what kinda overclock are you looking for really...

the ram, is my Mushkin PC6400.
same ram I used to get the WR for cas 3-3-3 overclocking last month, at 1060 mhz at 3.47 volts... if you wanna take that WR, go ahead, cause I am not touching that kinda voltage again, once is enough.
I think it took a week before my heart went back to normal after that day...
thats alot of money to put to that kinda risk, and I certainly cant replace something I kill, if its real expensive.
so once is enough...

Hmm, random hardware used...

E6300 that tops out at 3.87 ghz on P5B Deluxe on air.
Corsair 620.
ATI Rage Pro PCI card.
2 x 120 mm fans on the PWM and Ram.
1 x 40mm fan on the NB.
lots of trial and error.

first off, I want to say this...
I have no way to verify anything with this board.

CPUZ, Everest, Sisoft Sandra, Crystal CPUID, Even Nvidias own Ntune... nothing works.

nothing will show me the Cas, or the Dividers used.
all I have to show the MHz, is Bios, and Ntune, cause while Ntune 90% doesnt work on this board, it will show the CPU MHz, and Ram MHz.

so other then this, this is the best I can do to prove to you guys, this is what I say it is.
the Bios Matchs the information I get in windows, theres no errors... and the results do produce tangible improvements which I will also try to show.

first, the Bios shots to show what settings I used.

These are the voltages set right from bios.



these are the results of the voltages set from bios, after reboot.
all voltages overvolt, except the Vcore, which isnt even close to what you set in bios, and is usually off by about .1 volts. everything else, overvolts.



this is the cas used. forgive the shot, its taken from a CRT, and occassionally I get the big black bars blocking various info, and I just dont care enough about this particular shot to redo it, its the best of about 10 I took, and I am sick of trying to get the perfect shot.



this is the setting I used. Unlinked. so the divider is determined by the speed I set in. even dividers are extremely stable, odd ones are hit or miss.
1200 mhz = extremely stable. 1222 mhz = kinda stable = 1250 mhz = extremely stable, 1272 mhz, very unstable, 1300 mhz = mostly stable, 1333 mhz = barely stable for a few minutes, 1400 mhz = no boot.