Home made UV dyes

[Alien Grey]

This is what I get with 1 part UV Yellow/Green and 2 parts UV Green.


The first three pictures are with a lot of daylight the last two pictures with less daylight so you can actually see how the dye shows up with UV light.

















The colour is nice with both daylight and UV light and the 1 part UV Yellow/Green mixed with 2 parts UV Green gives a lot better glow with UV light.

The pictures can give you an idea of how it looks but you really have to see it with your own eyes before you can see the actual colour and glow. It's exactly as what I was looking for.

[Waterlogged]

A-Grey, you do realize that by using WW of any kind you are promoting a film to build up on your components that will hurt temps in the long run and is difficult to remove? It's fine for the application that it's recommended for but not computers.

[Alien Grey]

A-Grey, you do realize that by using WW of any kind you are promoting a film to build up on your components that will hurt temps in the long run and is difficult to remove? It's fine for the application that it's recommended for but not computers.

Yes, I know but it isn't the same as what they are using in the car industry. I don't think that it leaves a film behind if it does we would have a lot of problems to print after cleaning the rubber blankets and ink rollers.


This is exactly why I wanted to wait to post it in the thread to see if the temperature stays the same after a few months with the Anchor Water Wetting Agent.

I've been using it for several months and the temperature doesn't seem to be worse than before but I'm going to run the same test again when my room temperature is exactly 18.5° Celsius again so I could see if there's a difference.

[Gimmpy224]

seeing all these excellent dyes makes me wish my rig was up and running (gg funding).

I am getting pretty anxious to see some temp results after a few months of running these though ^_^.

[mlwood37]

I think ive said theis before and about 99.9 % of people will agree with me.
There are a few disadvantage's and advantage's over running dyes.

Dyes are not for you if

1) Your after performace
2) You cannot be botherd cleaning you system out regulay
3) You are after low temps e.g Over clocking 24/7

Dyes are for you if

1) You what to make you system look diffrent.
2) Your not botherd about temps +1 or 2c diffrance.
3) You regulay clean you system out (as in every 6 to 9 months)
4) You dont mind you equipment being stained (this cannot be avioded im afraid)
5) you have full control over the colour you have

There are some Inhibitors and some Biocides that can block the UV aspect of the dyes.

Inhibitors do the most dammage in a system if you use the wrong one and THAT is what blocks the system as it attacks the dyes and the biocide causeing brake down this in turn leave's sedement in the blocks just like radators in your home. How ever regular mantance of you system can stop this.

Kil coils are best used with dyes or Silver Tubing is even better.

There is no perfect Pre mix out there on the market. They all have the upside and down sides how ever the Thermochill stuff is the most economically viable mix to chouse.

Adding colour to Pre mixes.

1) Use a clear pre mix
2) Get a small 25 ml bottle and add 20 ml of pre mix
3) add a little powder dye (acid type) to the premix and shake vigorously
4) Filter it (use a coffie paper filter if you cannot get any thing else as these can be just as good).
5) Add 1 drop at a time back into the pre mix till your happy.

Oh and last not least Reviwers who say powder dyes are bad are full of poo. All dyes that are created are made from powders that are used in the chemical industry. The only diffrence between powder and pre bought solution is that normaly the solution is mixed at a factory and they are upto 10 x weeker then powder dyes alone.

Do not use Pigments in your water cooling system. Pigments are heaver than water. They will eventualy settle at the lowest points in you loop and block it. Pigments are made by mixing chemcials into a bonding compound and then crushing it into a very fine powder. Pigments allso after a while turn black Hence why its not good for water cooling systems. If the fluid that you are using has the abilty to suspend the Pigments (such as a oil) then they would be fine normaly. but you must regulay maintain you system once again.

Wikipdeia info for you - here

[Alien Grey]

seeing all these excellent dyes makes me wish my rig was up and running (gg funding).

I am getting pretty anxious to see some temp results after a few months of running these though ^_^.

The temperature shouldn't be a problem with the Anchor Water Wetting Agent and the dyes. There might be a few degrees difference because of the use of the dye but I don't expect a huge difference although I used a little more than 1ml (+/-1.1ml) for 520ml DeMi water.

I used a little bit to much UV Yellow/Green-Green dye to have it look green with daylight and it was already to much before I realized that I should add more UV Green to look more green with daylight.

I'm going to leave it like that for some time to see if the 2% Anchor Water Wetting Agent can keep my loop clean with so much dye.


I want to get this straight the Anchor Water Wetting Agent is a totally different product than Water Wetter. There shouldn't be a film layer that is going to make temperatures worse over time like the Water Wetter on your watercooling blocks and if it does so it's going to be easy to take that away with just pure water. But yes, it's better to be safe than sorry and wait for the results after a few months running this mixture in my loop.


If all goes well it should keep my watercooling loop clean and help against staining and it shouldn't be a problem to use mixed metals in the loop.

[mlwood37]

Carried on from post 359

Oky this is the system that was running for the purple Dye with UV blue mixed into it and Mayhems Biocide.

The system was stripped and checked for any staning and any sign's of build up.

The system was flushed out 1 time with water and then photos take of each part.

Even were there is faults with in the res and i saw liquid going into them parts there is no sign of the dye ever being in there. How ever pelase remember this is a NONE UV dye + UV clear Blue wich is a optical Brighterner not a dye. The mix was 10 drops of Puple + 2 drops of Clear UV Blue + 1 drop of mayhems Biocide. I will say UV colours will stain still.

Left for nearly 9 months from my date on my records of a fully working system.

Pics taken after 1 flush .

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/7784/xpsres3.jpg
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/2500/xpsres2.jpg
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/1...opperplate.jpg
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5952/xpgtop.jpg
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8879/ek8800gts.jpg
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6...upoftheres.jpg

[Alien Grey]

Here's my first test to see the difference in temperature.



DeMi Water + 2% Anchor Water Wetting Agent + 30 drops dye with a room temperature of 18° Celsius.





The temperature is exactly the same as when I used Anchor Water Wetting Agent for the first time and that's really good. The temperature difference between pure DeMi Water and my mix of Demi Water + 2% Anchor Water Wetting Agent + 30 drops dye is at maximum 1° Celsius on full load with LinX.

Look at my Idle Core temperature it's exactly the same as in the screenshot of the test with DeMi Water + Anchor Water wetting Agent that I posted before. Only the first core temperature isn't stuck at lower than 30° Celsius but still you can see that all temperatures are the same.


@mlwood37

You're saying that the UV dyes stain. Do I have to look in my blocks to see it or should there also be staining visible on the tubes and the acrylic reservoir?

If it would alos be visible on the tubes or the reservoir than there's no staining at all after a my first run with Anchor Water wetting Agent and 40 drops UV Green that I was using before.

[mlwood37]

Yup it does stain im afriad given time.

My Micro res from swifttech is stained i can see it as the light reflects and this was with UV orange (how ever i dont sell that because of that reason).

Allso the second Micro res shows signs of staining after 8 months of 30 drops in the res all by it self (yellow / green)., Obvesley ive gone to grate lenghs here to prove it can happen. In no way should any one add 30 drops to such a small ammount of liquid how ever it does and thats life. My cams ran out of batts else id show you pics.

Now the XPS res (2 that i have) and the Fancy tribal over kill has not stained. So its defenalty dependent of what water cooling gear you own.

Ive allso find silcone tubing stains easly even under normal mixture rates. And well some real cheap ass blue UV tubing with very thin walls avibale at some water cooling shops do as well. how ever i might do a new post about that as i found air line cracks in the tubing to wich im not to impressed with.

[Alien Grey]

Well I've got a Swiftech reservoir.

I should see some staining on it after a while and if I don't than I'm going to be really happy because that's going to be the proof that the Anchor Water Wetting Agent is doing it's job, keeping the loop clean.

[Elpy]

Just got my dyes. Dont have time to test it right now, but had to do a reaaaally quick test and I can assure you.. This is some ing strong stuff . Will test it later with a proper ratio of water/dye... but i did a quick test with the same 1,5dl glass I took my earlier photo's with. Dropped one drop in.. and well it's blue. It's really really blue . Cant even be compared to the old blue dye.

Should get pics up later today or tomorrow

[mlwood37]

well i just opend my post lol and i have receved my new Thermochromics samples to play with. Basicly they are two types but each is heat sensative my only problem will be getting them to suspend in liquid properly but if they do its going to be intresting. I have the 10 microns sample wich is active between 5 to 40c.

I have the leuco dye and allso liquid crystals.

Ill have a play any way and see how things go from there. but you never know my idear of a colour changing liquid is getting closer. (just needs a hell of a lot more work).

[Gimmpy224]

Well I've got a Swiftech reservoir.

I should see some staining on it after a while and if I don't than I'm going to be really happy because that's going to be the proof that the Anchor Water Wetting Agent is doing it's job, keeping the loop clean.

Im looking forward to this result.

That will be the kicker for me in deciding to try to get my hands on some of these dyes

[Alexandr0s]

well i just opend my post lol and i have receved my new Thermochromics samples to play with. Basicly they are two types but each is heat sensative my only problem will be getting them to suspend in liquid properly but if they do its going to be intresting. I have the 10 microns sample wich is active between 5 to 40c.

I have the leuco dye and allso liquid crystals.

Ill have a play any way and see how things go from there. but you never know my idear of a colour changing liquid is getting closer. (just needs a hell of a lot more work).

So what colors can we expect from thaose Thermochromics?

[mlwood37]

So what colors can we expect from thaose Thermochromics?

Well at the moment were ive spilled it on the table its black normaly then to red when my lass put the kettle on the table

...... then blood red after she stabbed me for making the mess .... hehehe

[mlwood37]

Elpy- what was the number on the bottle mate and got any pics

[Elpy]

Elpy- what was the number on the bottle mate and got any pics

You posted just when I started uploading them from my camera

The blue dye is #56 and clear UV is #55. Cant test the UV yet though because I dont have a PSU to run my cathodes atm. But anyway here are pics of the new 50% blue compared to the old (light) blue.

Glass size is 400ml

Distilled water:


A drop of the light blue dye and small spreading...


...Wotooom, a drop of the new 50% blue dye


1 drop of light blue on the left and 1 drop of new 50% blue dye on the right.


2 drops


Should had used a bit longer exposure , background isnt quite as bright as it really was but oh well, still shows the dye colors fine.

My "review": I love the new blue dye. I think its exactly perfect. I'm not sure if you should even sell the 100% dye because a lot of ppl have small loops that probably dont take more than that 500ml or so on... And for example my mixing bottle is only 500ml xD. So since just 1 drop of that dye with 400ml of water is that powerful, ppl might easily get too dark blue with the 100% dye. With this you have the choice of using the "normal" blue or going slightly darker by adding that 1 drop more. Or atleast sell them both, but I'll stick to this 50% dye

[mlwood37]

thks for that. i do have another blue that i havent played with yet thats even stronger but i think its a fine line between strong and taking the piss.

Glad you like the new blue. Ill sell both though i think to still give ppl the choise. I like the light blue my self but the dark blue is like being puched in the face with a hammer.

How ever ive taken the 50% blue (or blue 2) and its 50% blue + 50% UV clear Blue.

From what i can see it works realy well but how ever my resluts are allways diffrent to every one else. So when i get back from my mistery tour this weekend lol wich should be VERY intresting Ill make up some samples of the 50/50 mix of dark blue / Uv Blue and send some out.

Glad to see you like it though.

[noob eater4726]

Gah, I vouched to never use dyes again after a bad stain experience in a previous water cooled rig, but the fantastic blue in Elpy's post is weakening my resolve.

[faster3200]

My green sample just arrived .

I will post pics later today.

[4ddiction]

Cant wait to work on my system this weekend.

[mlwood37]

Oky this is the red (uv red) ive been working on

Its 40% candy red, 40% UV Pink, 10% deep purple.

I cannot in any way capture the vibrace of the UV aspect i did try my best but its a nice cool colour under UV and the red is lovly.



I just did a quick test of Blue 3 ... Oh my 1 drop to 1 pt ... its black never mind blue.

Any way taking that into account im going to play with deep pruple and Blue no 3 and a touch of red i think i maybe able to make a serisly good black with it.

Reading above post sound like were haveing a dye revival ... lol

I have a few enqires from reputable dealers who sell water cooling gear if every thing goes right we might start shipping them out for sale in other countrys. this will be good in the sense that youll be able to get you hands on them better. How ever chances are they will only stock popular colours were as i am contulay developing new ways and better dyes my shop will allways be the first to sell them.

Im off to a factory this week end to see some suspection fluid being made to my specs to be able to hold my Glow, heat senstive, Pealesnt range of liquid. it gonna be intresting to see if we can get it to work. fingers crossed.

This is a pic of the glow liquid ive been working on.



Take in Mind the right hand side shot is taken in the dark. with NO light what so ever.

They will hold this colour in the dark for upto 8 hours after a 20 min charge under UV. The liquid is NOT water based ... hehe

Pic were taken after a 2 min charge under UV light only ill do one under a 10 min charge soon.

This is the next evoluction in water cooling pre mix if i can pull it off .... How ever it will be a long time before it even get close to showing it fully working.

10 min charge under Uk on left and long distace shot showing NO light in the room and how bright this stuff realy is ..



Glow in the dark Liquid Cooling anyone !!!!!!!!!

[radi4fun]

will you ever mess with the Pink UV dye at all? just curious. when i read your post about having a light background on the case.... well i had just finished painting my case to high gloss black, took me almost 3+ week to finish it and now i'm thinkin of redoing it with white color or something to make the Pink dye more brighter. is it really worth it? or i should be fine with the black Xaser Vi case. wondering if adding like 4 or more UV CCFL might help?

[mlwood37]

When talking about a white case i am talking perfect sernario how ever normal cases are black. If you direct the UV light properly using refelction you will only need 1 or 2 cold cathods. haveing 4 is over kill unless the case is massive.

A cheap mothod is using tin foil but the best mothd would be mirror or a strip of reflective metal to reeflect all the light off the cold cathod to wards to tubing. this isnt just the case for dyes this is allso the case for all tubing.

UV Pink on its own is one of the Brightst UV colours i have and looks realy nice in a black case. I did have it running in the girls pc but unfortuntly i dont have pics of have that colour running atm.

[radi4fun]

oh ok. I was about to order the 5ml UV Pink dye, and you say "Each dye can fill upwards of 5+ water cooling system depending on amount used" And for 10ml you say "Each dye can fill upwards of 25+ water cooling system depending on amount used." how can the 5ml be only be 5+ systems while 10ml be 25+... and to give you an idea, i will have 2 EK400 resavoirs each holding 500ml of water + a few feet of 1/2" tubing. any idea how many times i can fill this 1000ml+ system i can fill using 5ml dye? have you ever calculated how many drops are in your 5ml and 10ml dyes? just curious if i should order 2X5ml pink dyes or not.