Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[BoxGods]

ok boxgods trying for rma called frozen cpu , they said for faster service to call Brian at primochill, so hopefully he can help me out ... luckily i didn't epoxy.... just didn't want my main pc out another 2 weeks it good to hear they're changing out the screws for nylon ones , but I had to use 2 way tape cause of the position of the screws and yea one rail definitely lets it rotate a bit but once i put in the cdroms she locks in , the back piece is the 1/4 but it was pretty sturdy and held my swiftech pump great .... all and all this reservoir was a bit of a problem , but after i heard it running I was amazed at how well it worked , hopefully if I can get a another one Ill have my confidence back in it

Yeah thats best. I am not saying you couldn't fix it or w/e skill wise, just that A: you should not have too, and B: if you DID pooch it lol...

I already spoke with Brian this AM to let him know and he was already aware of it so you must have made contact already. I Also think have two different lengths of NYLON screws will help for several reasons. Without using a torque wrench "over tightening" is pretty relative. It WILL happen and it is not really the end users fault unless its extreme. They will also dampen vibrations a little. Having the longer screws for Acrylic cases and those that have rails included will help too.

[Mellowyellow]

Update, No leaks, No cracks= :P






I am sorry about the size, wont happen again.

[meanmoe]

I got my T3 a or so week ago. No cracks, no leaks (except when I tried using a bp barb without an extra o-ring). I did noticed the mold imperfection barely, but like everyone says, it's not visible when filled.

I thought I'd post because they left out an LED plug. I sent an email and a few days later there was a little manila envelop in my mailbox with 1 plug in it. I laughed. One LED didn't work either, but I think it may be my fault and can be fixed.

So to stay with the topic... The T3 is beautiful and primochill was incredibly easy to deal with. thanks.

[the_real_7]

I already spoke with Brian this AM to let him know and he was already aware of it so you must have made contact already. I Also think have two different lengths of NYLON screws will help for several reasons. Without using a torque wrench "over tightening" is pretty relative. It WILL happen and it is not really the end users fault unless its extreme.

Hey boxgod thanks for looking out and giving brian the heads up speaking with him and letting him know . he said he will have a new one out shipped out to me next week soon as they get in stock , so maybe i get lucky and get one from a newer batch wooohoooooo

So to stay with the topic... The T3 is beautiful and primochill was incredibly easy to deal with. thanks.

I agree the T3 is very quality like, and up to now the most sensible wc part to date , that makes having a pump reservoir system look and perform great at the same time , and wow getting water in and air out was super easy and draining it was just as much a pleasure, finally water cooling getting just a bit easier , but like every first run of everything you gotta work out the kinks , and thanks to people like Brian over at primochill for helping out with these problems

[BoxGods]

Update, No leaks, No cracks= :P






I am sorry about the size, wont happen again.

Am I the only guy on earth that can't take awesome pictures? Install looks amazing! Do those pictures remind anyone else of some science fiction movie or TV show? When I looked at them I thought "wow, those really remind me of...and it was gone. Kinda Blade Runner looking but that was not it. Saturn 13?

I got my T3 a or so week ago. No cracks, no leaks (except when I tried using a bp barb without an extra o-ring). I did noticed the mold imperfection barely, but like everyone says, it's not visible when filled.

I thought I'd post because they left out an LED plug. I sent an email and a few days later there was a little manila envelop in my mailbox with 1 plug in it. I laughed. One LED didn't work either, but I think it may be my fault and can be fixed.

So to stay with the topic... The T3 is beautiful and primochill was incredibly easy to deal with. thanks.

If you don't get the other one working let me know...I have cases and cases of those pigtailed LED's here in the shop.

Hey boxgod thanks for looking out and giving brian the heads up speaking with him and letting him know . he said he will have a new one out shipped out to me next week soon as they get in stock , so maybe i get lucky and get one from a newer batch wooohoooooo



I agree the T3 is very quality like, and up to now the most sensible wc part to date , that makes having a pump reservoir system look and perform great at the same time , and wow getting water in and air out was super easy and draining it was just as much a pleasure, finally water cooling getting just a bit easier , but like every first run of everything you gotta work out the kinks , and thanks to people like Brian over at primochill for helping out with these problems

Thank all of you guys for taking the time to post. Was a tough day (this latest revision of the new CPU block is kicking my A$$ ) and seeing positive messages helped a bunch.

[skinnee]

Am I the only guy on earth that can't take awesome pictures?

Have you met Naekuh?

[strike]

I love this res
some upgrades

[BoxGods]

Brian is asking for another faceplate design that covers the center basin for guys that use top ports...thoughts?

[millertime359]

Brian is asking for another faceplate design that covers the center basin for guys that use top ports...thoughts?

It might be kind of cool to do that and etch PrimoChill into the center part so the LEDs could glow threw that.

[BoxGods]

It might be kind of cool to do that and etch PrimoChill into the center part so the LEDs could glow threw that.

Not sure I would do that...I am not a big fan of overly in your face company logo's. Might machine it into that space since it covers the logo underneath, but not all the way through.

[millertime359]

Not sure I would do that...I am not a big fan of overly in your face company logo's. Might machine it into that space since it covers the logo underneath, but not all the way through.

Yea, might be a little plain covering the center part up though. Something would needed to be etched there.

[Diverge]

Wouldn't making a face like that kinda defeat the purpose of using the material you created the res out of? I mean the current face plates where to break up the in_your_face_ness of the res, to help blend it with peoples cases.

I'd personally rather have a res made out of non_clear material (that black plastic stuff used in videocard block tops) and a replaceable window. Then there is a lot less worry about cracking it, and the kind of fluids you use. If the window breaks, replace it.

Something like this:



Red = o-ring
Clear = window
Teal = fluid in res
Purple = screw to hold window on

Of course it can be done a lot nicer I'm sure. I just made that in MS Paint to illustrate the idea. That black plastic stuff might be better at dealing with vibrations from the pump too

[Utnorris]

I could see removing the front ports if you are tapping the top. Cleaner look, but I wouldn't go so far as to etch the logo on it, but I like the cleaner look personally.

[BoxGods]

The biggest problem with a black plastic is you don't see the impeller and such which is kind of cool. We have actually injected a sort of iPod white and it does look pretty cool. Have to talk to Brian about maybe molding at least the back half in a black...never know. I do know that POM/Delrin can be molded...just require a lot of mold rework which is $$$.

[Mellowyellow]

Am I the only guy on earth that can't take awesome pictures? Install looks amazing! Do those pictures remind anyone else of some science fiction movie or TV show? When I looked at them I thought "wow, those really remind me of...and it was gone. Kinda Blade Runner looking but that was not it. Saturn 13?

Thanks,

I am not sure if I have air left in my system or it is coming in from anywhere, I can not find any leaks but every couple days I will come home and find a quarter size bubble at the top of the rez, I will burp it and then watch. I can not figure out if it is just air trapped in the system or not, I do not think it should be since I do not even see any micro bubbles right now.
Anyone else have an idea of what i should be looking for?

[millertime359]

The biggest problem with a black plastic is you don't see the impeller and such which is kind of cool. We have actually injected a sort of iPod white and it does look pretty cool. Have to talk to Brian about maybe molding at least the back half in a black...never know. I do know that POM/Delrin can be molded...just require a lot of mold rework which is $$$.

If your going to do a revised model, don't forget about the slots.

[2000army]

a Delrin one would be amazing

[BoxGods]

Its not unusual to see air for a while as its bled out of all the little crevices in the pump, rad etc. If your not seeing any moisture/leaking (and your looking carefully) Then it is likely entrapped air. Keep an eye on it though. If yous still seeing it after a week then start looking at all of your connections, fittings, block seal, pump seal etc. Not a scientific observation by any stretch, but if the bubble is the same size each day at the same time that does point to a draw somewhere.

@ Millertime. Well the same mold would be used, just injecting pom and not acrylic or polycarbonate. I would advocate a new front half as that's only about 8K (ONLY lol) as its not as involved as the back obviously. Another option might be machining the front. Not sure if they would go for either but I am guessing Brian would say let's see how people like the new split window first and if it's well received then make a delrin T3 with that style of front. Would be more expensive obviously so maybe call it the T3 Premium (or something less meh sounding) and have it ship with the new metal compressions =)

Will keep you posted.

[blind_ripper]

so after my last pm with boxgod the res came to a leak free time.
now its going at it again and its doing more!!!
leaking from pomp mount and inside the res it self.

i call this a first
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug-dC4pHOA4
thank god for HD .

now im gone mail for a rma.

[Artemis]

Would I be able to use my metal bitspower 1/2'' barbs with this? Or would I need a new O-ring?

[lexusxxx]

my loop
i use 1/2" (13mm) ID, 3/4" (19mm) OD tubing
t3
1. subloop
T3LO
D-Tek FuZion v2 + Koolance QDC(VL3N-F13-19S + VL3N-F13-19S)
QDC(http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...-Kupplung.html + http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...chraubung.html)
MORA 2 radiator
QDC(http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...-Kupplung.html + http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...chraubung.html)
Koolance INS-FM17 Coolant Flow Meter & Adapter Board
T3LI
2. subloop
T3HO
parallel 3* EK-FC285 GTX PCB Rev.2 SLI - Nickel/Acetal + Koolance QDC(VL3N-F13-19S + VL3N-F13-19S)
Swiftech MCW-NBMAX + Koolance QDC(VL3N-F13-19S + VL3N-F13-19S)
T3HI


I take readings this device


http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=740
And I have such result
D5 1st speed 1320 RPM
D5 2st speed 1811 RPM
D5 3st speed 2395 RPM
D5 4st speed 3078 RPM
D5 5st speed 3860 RPM

The "RPMs" represent approximate flow meter coolant in mL/min, and not revolutions.
schedule of instructions to the measuring device


pulse frequency in Hz is this rotation per second
litres per hour = litres per minute*60
so if RPM/60sec*0.3044*60sec

koolance.... My head.....

LPH=RPM*0.3044


We have following values:
D5 1st speed 402 litres per hour
D5 2st speed 551 litres per hour
D5 3st speed 729 litres per hour
D5 4st speed 936 litres per hour
D5 5st speed 1174 litres per hour

IMHO very well for T3!!!

[Vapor]

The conversion done on that graph is done by the little black box where it all connects in the middle...the conversion factors are there for anyone who wants to make their own controller (I suppose ).

Your flowrates are as such:
D5 1st speed 1.32 l/min (.35GPM)
D5 2nd speed 1.81 l/min (.48GPM)
D5 3rd speed 2.4 l/min (.63GPM
D5 4th speed 3.08 l/min (.81GPM)
D5 5th speed 3.86 l/min (1.02GPM)




(btw, that's a lot of QDCs in your loop! )

[lexusxxx]

The conversion done on that graph is done by the little black box where it all connects in the middle...the conversion factors are there for anyone who wants to make their own controller (I suppose ).

Your flowrates are as such:
D5 1st speed 1.32 l/min (.35GPM)
D5 2nd speed 1.81 l/min (.48GPM)
D5 3rd speed 2.4 l/min (.63GPM
D5 4th speed 3.08 l/min (.81GPM)
D5 5th speed 3.86 l/min (1.02GPM)




(btw, that's a lot of QDCs in your loop! )

I could not translate your phrase...
Forgive my English...

To mine the calculation resulted above is true
QDC it is convenient to use that without merging system to change elements
For example if I have to pull out video cards, I will turn off 2 small screws on the water block of northern bridge and all,
And if I have to remove the processor I will simply separate 2 QDC
Big QDC I use for a radiator

[Artemis]

Would I be able to use my metal bitspower 1/2'' barbs with this? Or would I need a new O-ring?

Does anyone know?

[Ketzer7]

Does anyone know?

Read a couple pages back in this thread.

Pretty sure Vapor and a few others said that if you want to use BP fittings on the T3 you need to get some #9 o-rings for them to seal properly.

Hopefully they'll see this and correct me if I'm wrong.