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Thread: 4-in-1 Motherboard Cooling :D

  1. #51
    Xtreme X.I.P.
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    why not a separate NB from SB, no heatpipes at all.

    do a good NB mini pot, i wouldnt care much about air if this is for extreme people dont do mid things.

    I'd definetly put dry ice on it, as over 1.8XX vNB board wouldnt boot.

  2. #52
    Xtreme X.I.P. MaxxxRacer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrlobber View Post
    Damn this one is good

    P.S. Would the heatpipes work if the definitive NB cooling (DI or LN2) were used?
    No.. The liquid would most likely freeze.

  3. #53
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    hmmm

    For the supercooling, no the heatpipe wont work, the material inside is WATER, assembled at a lower pressure than atmospheric, so it boils at a much lower temperature... but an LN like temps it will just freeze at the NB end. And if enough cold works down the pipe, it will be a condensation nightmare, you'd have to insulate the whole assembly.

    Shimano...

    For WC though, use copper and its a really NICE solution.... make one for the Foxconn NForce 590 board.... and if possible UPDATE the bios to include all the settings for the A64 that the ASUS Crosshair board includes.... the Foxconn board would be better than the already excellent product it is now!!!!

    Also, let the boyz in the lab know, the Rictek 9715 used for the Vdimm is crapping out and drooping badly at higher Vdimm levels with "D9" ddr2.... just as it did on the DFI NF4-SLR DR boards with BH5 ram.
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  4. #54
    naokaji
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer View Post
    No.. The liquid would most likely freeze.
    woudnt they still provide some cooling though simply from the pipes material?

  5. #55
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    great great idea

    Is there a CPU version???

  6. #56
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    CPU? Why do you need one with Gorillakos pots, Kingpin's F1, etc...
    ok, I will anodise it copper... is it ok guys??







    Kiddin, I've decided, it won't go out till it's copper, probably full copper.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by LardArse View Post
    CPU? Why do you need one with Gorillakos pots, Kingpin's F1, etc...
    ok, I will anodise it copper... is it ok guys??


    Kiddin, I've decided, it won't go out till it's copper, probably full copper.
    LOL, copper colored aluminum...who are you, Asus?
    Formerly XIP, now just P.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by EnJoY View Post
    LOL, copper colored aluminum...who are you, Asus?
    OUCH.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by LardArse View Post
    CPU? Why do you need one with Gorillakos pots, Kingpin's F1, etc...
    ok, I will anodise it copper... is it ok guys??







    Kiddin, I've decided, it won't go out till it's copper, probably full copper.
    better be full copper


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  10. #60
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    if copper
    this will add $40-50 to the price will it not
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  11. #61
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    Does the mosfet sink actually contact all of the mosfets very well?

    Most of the time i've found the best way to do it is epoxy the mosfet sink to the mosfets. Best contact you'll get without putting on idividual sinks anyways.

    All along the watchtower the watchmen watch the eternal return.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by STEvil View Post
    Does the mosfet sink actually contact all of the mosfets very well?

    Most of the time i've found the best way to do it is epoxy the mosfet sink to the mosfets. Best contact you'll get without putting on idividual sinks anyways.
    youre absolutely right, not just mosfets, especially for heatpiped setup even sometimes NB or SB is not fixed on hard!
    So for this, I have a small back plate behind mosfets and clamped down hard on mosfets no bowing on mosfet part after i tried clamping down my cpu pot super tight. and paddish pads to fit the countours of mosfets individually so the minute difference in height will be ok

  13. #63
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    An included mosfet backplate? This thing just keeps getting better.
    A wolf in wolves clothing.

  14. #64
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    Good to have the backplate.. dont want it to be a waffle like asus boards lol

    All along the watchtower the watchmen watch the eternal return.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by LardArse View Post
    So for this, I have a small back plate behind mosfets and clamped down hard on mosfets
    awesome!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by EnJoY View Post
    who are you, Asus?
    No cursewords and insults! thats against the forum rules! ^^

    Quote Originally Posted by LardArse View Post
    Kiddin, I've decided, it won't go out till it's copper, probably full copper.
    thats the right decision, most h20 setups are copper and copper plus alu blocks in one loop = corrosion. water additives can slow it down but never stop it, so copper is def the way to go

    Quote Originally Posted by naokaji View Post
    woudnt they still provide some cooling though simply from the pipes material?
    no, the heatpipe walls are very thin, around 0.1-0.2mm usually, so they arent good at moving heat just by themselves without the phase change effect of the carrier inside.

    Quote Originally Posted by uwackme View Post
    Shimano...

    It happened again!
    When SHIMANO, me, fr3ak and vahid from techpowerup were hanging out in leiptzig after GC vahid accidently called shamino shimano as well and all of us burst out in laughter

  16. #66
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    he he, the real saaya-style post above ^

    I like this concept, just want to see how it works, quickly (and copper FTW )
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  17. #67
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    that looks great, looking forward to what the finish product will look like
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  18. #68
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  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by saaya View Post
    No cursewords and insults! thats against the forum rules! ^^
    You knew that was a joke, right?
    Formerly XIP, now just P.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by EnJoY View Post
    You knew that was a joke, right?
    ^^ = Yes i think he knew it was a joke , but i can have wrong

  21. #71
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    Foxconn might become the next OCers choice if they play their cards right.

    It only takes one good product to get us to follow

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by LardArse View Post
    CPU? Why do you need one with Gorillakos pots, Kingpin's F1, etc...
    ok, I will anodise it copper... is it ok guys??







    Kiddin, I've decided, it won't go out till it's copper, probably full copper.
    Why must you crush my dreams???

  23. #73
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    Nice idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by LardArse View Post
    ok copper i bear that in mind! I think it's worth the few dollars extra for copper anyhows
    Much better.

    Quote Originally Posted by MR_SmartAss View Post
    You don't need the heat pipe to the SB. Just put a bigger passive cooler and you're done with it
    I agree. The SB can get by with a low-profile heatsink.
    Sometimes with these heatpipes manufacturers connect the components
    with, the SB is heated instead of being cooled.

    Quote Originally Posted by EnJoY View Post
    LOL, copper colored aluminum...who are you, Asus?
    Hahaha


    One more idea:
    making the NB 3-piece may make it even more flexible and efficient for air-
    cooling. Here's what I'm thinking:
    Base+heatpipe+fins - O-ring - walls - O-ring - Top+barbs.
    So for air-cooling, it's just the first part - base+hp+fins. No walls obstructing
    air-flow. For DI/LN2, screw the walls back. You can also make a special higher
    wall with longer screws for DI. For water, just screw the top on the walls.


    And another:
    a stepped base under the NB/pot for easier insulation?
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  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank M View Post
    Nice idea.



    Much better.



    I agree. The SB can get by with a low-profile heatsink.
    Sometimes with these heatpipes manufacturers connect the components
    with, the SB is heated instead of being cooled.


    Hahaha


    One more idea:
    making the NB 3-piece may make it even more flexible and efficient for air-
    cooling. Here's what I'm thinking:
    Base+heatpipe+fins - O-ring - walls - O-ring - Top+barbs.
    So for air-cooling, it's just the first part - base+hp+fins. No walls obstructing
    air-flow. For DI/LN2, screw the walls back. You can also make a special higher
    wall with longer screws for DI. For water, just screw the top on the walls.


    And another:
    a stepped base under the NB/pot for easier insulation?
    you mean like this?



    dice should be ok, ln2 I dunno if the o ring will hold long...

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlink View Post
    Foxconn might become the next OCers choice if they play their cards right.

    It only takes one good product to get us to follow
    meh i heard the same for the mars yet i fail to see everyone having one :P
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