Why the unneeded T before the pump? 2 inches of tubing would do the same thing and not kill flow as much.
Phenom 9950BE @ 3.24Ghz| ASUS M3A78-T | ASUS 4870 | 4gb G.SKILL DDR2-1000 |Silverstone Strider 600w ST60F| XFI Xtremegamer | Seagate 7200.10 320gb | Maxtor 200gb 7200rpm 16mb | Samsung 206BW | MCP655 | MCR320 | Apogee | MCW60 | MM U2-UFO |
A64 3800+ X2 AM2 @3.2Ghz| Biostar TF560 A2+ | 2gb Crucial Ballistix DDR2-800 | Sapphire 3870 512mb | Aircooled inside a White MM-UFO Horizon |
Current Phenom overclock
Max Phenom overclock
Wouldn't it be better to place the pump on its side. (I believe that would be a problem for the pump.)
Then you can get the outlet of the res straight to the inlet of the pump.
And the outlet of the pump almost straight into the rad.
I've built 1 "KEG" for a customer who "HAD TO HAVE" a DDC w/Petra's top pump. I had to mount the pump on its side, and used H.D velcro to secure that sucker down. I don't like to use this series pump in my builds for 2 main reasons: (1) the heat this pump puts out is *MUCH* more then the conventional D5 series pumps, and (2) I don't like the way I have to mount this pump, just seems a little un-secured for my liking. If I was to do another DDC pump in my case, I would buy this adapter (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20603) This way you wont have to use an ugly 90 degree plastic elbow, and using this fitting will allow you to mount the pump on its bottom, with minimal flow turbulance, and will also look more appealing. Hope this helps someone......
Last edited by newls1; 09-09-2007 at 09:36 AM.
Nothing anymore
If read my above post, use that fitting I mentioned for the top of the pump. It is going to be a little more difficult to fill the system up, now since the water will have to go "UP" to get into the pump. IF you use the 90 degree g1/4 thread fitting, i will then allow you to have a gradual downward flow right into the pump (let gravity do its thing!) This will also LOWER your "T" fitting area where the drain is, and will look much better IMHO. Also, did you "HOG" out the case screw holes on the front? I see 1 where it is so big, that it broke thru the metal??.....
Also, what are you planning to do with the wiring for the back? Some people thing these are easy to build, but there not. Really takes some time to get the wiring neat and organized, PLUS, all the internal wiring is 100% made by me, I cut the wiring off the pump and make my own harness for that, plus all the other items. Lots of time is in the wiring its self, then paint, then making my case compatible with the internals. When I get a case from my machine shop, it is RUFF to say the least LOL!! Here is a pic for you to see the back side of a keg, if it helps you out any, and an internal wiring shot.
![]()
Last edited by newls1; 09-09-2007 at 10:35 AM.
Nothing anymore
Thanks, for finding that. Also, I have some heavy duty velcro. I'll try the right angle first.
When I order the right angle, I'm going to order the some EK High Flow "Stubby" Fittings (G 1/4 Thread - 1/2" Barb), because the 2 fittings I have almost touch.This will also LOWER your "T" fitting area where the drain is, and will look much better IMHO.
YesAlso, did you "HOG" out the case screw holes on the front? I see 1 where it is so big, that it broke thru the metal??....., I'm going to attach some bolts to the inside of the case so that I can use the hex bolts as thumb screws. Although it would have been nice not to have done it to begin with.
I plan on running most of the wiring under the radiator. The fans in the picture are not the fans I'm using. I have 3 Yate Loon fans from Performance PC with black mesh sleeving, as well as, some additional custom cables with the same sleeving and heatshrink so that I can hide them along the wall. For the wires for the 4" lights and the pump, I bought some black mesh sleeving that I plan to cover the wires with and then cut to length. I haven't quite figured out how I want to send the cables through the case, but that's part of the fun. You've done a great job designing the case, I can tell alot of thought went into the layout. Right now I'm just dry fitting everything in the case, but I'll post some pics of the finished results. Thanks!Also, what are you planning to do with the wiring for the back? Some people thing these are easy to build, but there not. Really takes some time to get the wiring neat and organized, PLUS, all the internal wiring is 100% made by me, I cut the wiring off the pump and make my own harness for that, plus all the other items. Lots of time is in the wiring its self, then paint, then making my case compatible with the internals. When I get a case from my machine shop, it is RUFF to say the least LOL!!
For those in the States looking for a PA120.3, MicroCenter has it, but rather costly.
+1
Dude i am never asking gabe for anything anymore.
Now i totally understand his possition on stuff like this. We asked for it, He told us it would be expensive, and you guys complain.
This is why Gabe holds firm on some opinions. Watch the copper GTX revision come out costing near 80 dollars. And i bet you people will have a cow going that block costs too much.
*sigh*
Gabe if you read this, i am sorry for pressuring you on the copper top. I bought 2 and i love them. But seems like some people cant make up there minds, or have very short term memory.
Nadeshiko: i7 990 12GB DDR3 eVGA Classified *In Testing... Jealous?*
Miyuki: W3580 6GB DDR3 P6T-Dlx
Lind: Dual Gainestown 3.07
Sammy: Dual Yonah Sossoman cheerleader. *Sammy-> Lind.*
Its my fault.. and no im not sorry about it either.[12:37] skinnee: quit helping me procrastinate block reviews, you asshat. :p
[12:38] Naekuh: i love watching u get the firing squad on XS
...or selective memory.
Edit from Vapor....please do not discuss pricing or custom sales outside of the Classifieds section or PMs.
Bookmarks