[First Look] DFI 680i LT NF-680i LT SLI (56K Warning~~~)

[SchiuZ]

schiuz, have you even played with the gtl reference voltage settings? thats all you need to get 3.6ghz, not 1.58V.

Thank you. I am "playing" with the GTL settings a lot, trying to find something good to be Prime stable. I am using Orthos Blend test . What version of Prime95 do you suggest me? My OS is Vista Ultimate 32.

I read you post here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/....php?t=155373: your consideration were rellay heplfull for me, this one in particular: use rmclock to disable tm1, tm2, and extended throttling. if you don't do this, the multiplier will drop down to 6x if you go somewhere in the 80C range.

Ok, several things to consider here...

First, we know your CPU is stable at 3.4GHz and a reasonable 1.45VCore.

Keep in mind that the DFI undervolts the Vcore by about 0.07V and then droops an addition 0.05V under load. So to get an equivalent of 1.48V under load with the DFI you are going to want to max the CPU Vid at 1.6V... even to hit 3.4GHz.

3.4GHz is 377x9 or 425x8... Forget about the 425x8... hitting 400+FSB with a quad is extremely difficult on any board... you were lucky to achieve that on the EVGA... not many can do that... it's like winning the lotto. You should just go back to the eVGA with results like that.

With the DFI it may not be possible or would take an endless amount of tweaking GTL. Hence in my opinion you should aim for 377x9 and by the sounds of it you could use either BIOS to do this... certainly the locked multi version. The reason you may not be able to hit 400x8 is possibly due to the particular NB silicon you have on the DFI... perhaps it has a wall or hole there. Also keep in mind that the DFI undervolts the NB like crazy so you really need to crank up the voltage. You should be using something like 1.6x Volts on the NB I think. Also, my NB has holes... try going up in 5MHz increments from 360 and see if any of them work... I found my board wouldn't post at 360 but was perfectly stable at 380 (for example).

Ultimately, I don't think your issue is BIOS related at all (although I share your frustration with the various versions)... perhaps you just have unrealistic expectations for the silicon you have in hand (trying for 400+ FSB)?

Thank you for answering, sorry for beening so late but I was busy.

1) I know that this motherboard drops a lot on voltages, so I am trying to use proper voltages.

2) Probably I will go back to the eVga, but I wanna try again to make this DFI work, and I hope that a better BIOS will be relased.

3) I know that all the chips are different, and probably the one that I have on this moteherboard in the NB is not so good.

4) The fact is that I have problems in booting only using the 2CTST BIOS... With the other BIOS is it not a problem to boot and to run 400Mhz FSB, I have temperature problmes in that case. I will try to change CPU and to thake a G0, I will also try a Phase cooling system. I am sure that the 400+ FSB will not be a problem.

I really think that my problem is BIOS-related. If I could set 6x multi on the 4CTST I am sure that it would be fine to make the system stable @ 400Mhz FSB or more. I will see what it is going to happen when the new CPU G0 and the new cooling system will arrive.

[justin_c]

Install XP schiuz anyways, you should be using prime95 v25.4 (which you can only find at the mersenne.org forums, NOT on the front page, so google it).
stress testing>>small ffts. i rarely have problems with this board booting up with unstable settings, usually if its unstable it just shuts down with a blue screen saying MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION.

I recommend adding +2 to the first two gtl values from the default (eg 145/79/77, etc, etc)

[famich]

I'm gonna pair my board with a core 2 duo and table the Quads until the X38 chipset. I've got two Q6600's, a G0 & a B3, both of which heats up the power circuitry far too easily. I think the 680i chipset simply isn't up to par for overclocking quad cores. Stock or a little above but not serious overclocking. Suxs because I already have a decent 680i board with the Abit IN9 32-Max.

I've tried the evga a1/t1 boards and did vdroop mod. It's a nice, fairly simple board, but it struggled to clock my quads as well, though easier to setup than the DFI.

Hi, Nemesis, I do agree with you on that - I, too, "stocked " my QX6700ES-simply too hard to clock it up from 3600 stable- running my G0 6850 @4005 stble 24/ now and waiting for the X38- Intel775 was really better for ocing even dualcores B3s, I had always upped the VCORE notch or two more than on 775.

[Origin_Unknown]

hi guys,

does this board come with the solid pcb type sli bridge or a flexible one?

im curious to that as if you have two TR HR-03-Plus's in sli then the hard pcb will not go over one of the coolers

[The Nemesis]

hi guys,

does this board come with the solid pcb type sli bridge or a flexible one?

im curious to that as if you have two TR HR-03-Plus's in sli then the hard pcb will not go over one of the coolers

solid short bridge like on the NF4 boards.

[Origin_Unknown]

solid short bridge like on the NF4 boards.

thanks for that.


Ive also noticed that the chipset heatsink is kind of offeset to either side (can you see?) if its mounted so that the bit that sticks up is closer to the cpu do you think that it would be possible to mount a Thermalright HR-03-plus over the back of the card? (i.e. so the heatsink isnt over the memory / regs)

[denden]

my board will soon back from RMA cos I broken a corner of the nb chip, any one has experience how to apply mcw30 with the 4 hooks?

[Wiggy McShades]

my board will soon back from RMA cos I broken a corner of the nb chip, any one has experience how to apply mcw30 with the 4 hooks?

i would try to aply the block wiht some thermal adhesive mixed with thermal paste to hold it in place, also im using F fittings from swiftech and 1/4 tubing for the chipset it doesnt put as much pressure on the chipset waterblock so it sits flat.

[denden]

thks, I will be running 1/2" tube cos I am just running one loop with my fuzion. Yes I also think of using 4 sets of fittings to strengthen the block from moving...

i would try to aply the block wiht some thermal adhesive mixed with thermal paste to hold it in place, also im using F fittings from swiftech and 1/4 tubing for the chipset it doesnt put as much pressure on the chipset waterblock so it sits flat.

[Lood007]

For the record, that chipset waterblock is a piece of junk. Go with the dangerden intel maze 4. You'll be glad you did.

[virtualrain]

For the record, that chipset waterblock is a piece of junk. Go with the dangerden intel maze 4. You'll be glad you did.

Agreed. A MCW-30 with 1/2" tubing is suicide on this board.

Another option is to order a MIPS cooler specifically made for this board or to use an Alphacool 4-eyelet block like I'm using. However these options all require ordering from Europe whereas the DD block is readily available in the US.

[Lood007]

However these options all require ordering from Europe whereas the DD block is readily available in the US.

... and the mounting solution is simple, sturdy, and it just plain works.

[virtualrain]

BTW, if anyone is interested in my latest quad overclocking trials and tribulations on my replacement (RMA) board... I'm posting in the much newer thread here... http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=155373

[denden]

well I could make a order for alphacool here in HK, http://www.alphacool.hk/shop/index.p...r-coolers.html ， while which model no. is it? and how does it mounted onto the 4 hole? could you explain with photo, thks.

Agreed. A MCW-30 with 1/2" tubing is suicide on this board.

Another option is to order a MIPS cooler specifically made for this board or to use an Alphacool 4-eyelet block like I'm using. However these options all require ordering from Europe whereas the DD block is readily available in the US.

[virtualrain]

well I could make a order for alphacool here in HK, http://www.alphacool.hk/shop/index.p...r-coolers.html ， while which model no. is it? and how does it mounted onto the 4 hole? could you explain with photo, thks.

This is the one here...



It fastens down using what is best described as hooks with threads. The hooks latch onto the motherboard loops and the threaded end protrudes up through the holes in the mounting plate and you finger tighten the supplied nuts.

Because the dimensions of the motherboard loops are not an exact match for the holes in the mounting plate, I opted to notch the hooks with my dremel so they sat perfectly... otherwise they looked like they were protruding at odd angles.

If this hasn't scared you off, I'll post a pic tomorrow.

[denden]

wa wa! really a bit scaring, yeah awaiting for your pic.

This is the one here...



It fastens down using what is best described as hooks with threads. The hooks latch onto the motherboard loops and the threaded end protrudes up through the holes in the mounting plate and you finger tighten the supplied nuts.

Because the dimensions of the motherboard loops are not an exact match for the holes in the mounting plate, I opted to notch the hooks with my dremel so they sat perfectly... otherwise they looked like they were protruding at odd angles.

If this hasn't scared you off, I'll post a pic tomorrow.

[virtualrain]

wa wa! really a bit scaring, yeah awaiting for your pic.

Here you go.



Note that the loops are just a tad to the outside of the holes in the mounting plate which is why I notched the hooks a bit out from their natural elbow. They still don't sit perfectly striaght, but good enough to get a nice solid 4-point mount. I actually could turn the thumb-nuts while the board was running to tune the cooling on the NB and ensure it was balanced out.

I also cut the excess threaded portion off the top of the threaded hooks.

[Wiggy McShades]

i know this is really off topic but does anyone know how i could order the pwm block from mips for this board in the US ?

[virtualrain]

i know this is really off topic but does anyone know how i could order the pwm block from mips for this board in the US ?

Only direct from MIPS AFAIK.

[Wiggy McShades]

Only direct from MIPS AFAIK.

thats a difficult task i cant read their website :P and thermalright's cooler aint out till the end of september

[denden]

nice...I think I will get it, for future the block area seems to be large enough to cover the NB IHS of X38 board.

Here you go.



Note that the loops are just a tad to the outside of the holes in the mounting plate which is why I notched the hooks a bit out from their natural elbow. They still don't sit perfectly striaght, but good enough to get a nice solid 4-point mount. I actually could turn the thumb-nuts while the board was running to tune the cooling on the NB and ensure it was balanced out.

I also cut the excess threaded portion off the top of the threaded hooks.

[virtualrain]

nice...I think I will get it, for future the block area seems to be large enough to cover the NB IHS of X38 board.

Order one of these retention kits then as well while you are at it so you can convert it over later...

http://www.alphacool.hk/shop/product...c90d1a15177ee2

One other comment, you will notice that I didn't use the mounting hardware as intended... the proper way is to use springs between the plate and thumb nuts... I didn't bother with that... doing a hard mount. I used the plastic sleeve spring limiters upside down through the holes to better keep the threaded shafts upright instead of coming out an angle. There is enough give in the mounting plate to ensure you don't snap anything as long as you tighten it gently and not too much. Lots of previous hook and loop users have tightened too much and broke loops before so don't do that. Tweak it like I did while running the board to get the best temps being careful not to overtighten.

[virtualrain]

thats a difficult task i cant read their website :P and thermalright's cooler aint out till the end of september

Just email Michael Franke at MIPS at... info@mips-computer.de

He speaks English and arrange the whole transaction with him by email/paypal.

[Wiggy McShades]

Just email Michael Franke at MIPS at... info@mips-computer.de

He speaks English and arrange the whole transaction with him by email/paypal.

wow thanks

[owcraftsman]

i know this is really off topic but does anyone know how i could order the pwm block from mips for this board in the US ?

I ordered my 680i LT set from mips and got it here in Florida USA
in 6 days which is faster than some in the U.S. can get it done. Excellent communication and nothing but Kudos. Very friendly and helpful

DFI LANparty UT n680i LT Freezer Set. Bestellnummer: MCH407

mailto: info@mips-computer.de

I paid less than 200 US including shipment.


virtualrain where are you getting those right angle barbs at, and when ya gonna post your water set up pics??