Iwaki RD30...for those that have experience with one, I have a few questions please

[Think]

Hello Xtreme liquid members.

Quick question for those of you that have worked with the Iwaki RD30.

First, Iwaki rates the noise level at 40db which seems rather loud, but I'm assuming it's running at the fully rated level at that point and most likely with a 24v powersupply.

Second, I would like to have a variable powersupply from 12v to 24v for this unit and to have it wired to be triggered by the case. Has anyone found a solution for this?

If it's too loud then I don't want it.

If I can't have it automatically triggered by the computers on switch then I won't do that either.

Thanks.

PS, I searched for a solution and pm'd a member without any results.

[Sparky]

I've never owned a RD30 (too freakin expensive) so I can't help you on the noise part. But I do know you can use this to switch the pump PSU on and off:

http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenpuresw.html

[billb]

...the Iwaki RD30.

First, Iwaki rates the noise level at 40db

If it's too loud then I don't want it.

If I can't have it automatically triggered by the computers on switch

Some thinks you may want to know, hopefully you haven't pulled the trigger yet.

The RD series have US motors...less reliable/more noise. The MD series have the quiet dependable Japanese motors.

You want the high pressure model, not the standard model nor the high flow model.

The 30 series are a little too much for watercooling computers. You will find that the extra flow they (the high flow model) can give is overcome by the massive heat dump. The MD20 high flow series is more appropriate.

Yes, it's 120V. Just plug your computer/pump into a power strip and use that to control both pump and computer. Or just let the pump run continuously.

Noise...not 40 db! Not annoying. A little louder than an Ehein 1048...which is near silent.

[MrToad]

With all due respect billb you are mixing apples and oranges.

The RD30 the OP is asking about is a DC pump.

The MD series you mention are AC pumps.

Look at the sticky about pumps for clarification.

[Petra]

The RD series have US motors...less reliable/more noise. The MD series have the quiet dependable Japanese motors.

I'm with MrToad on this one, you seem a little confused. The RD series pumps are Japanese made, high pressure, 24V DC pumps. You're thinking of the MD and WMD series pumps which are the Japanese and American motored, relatively low head pressure, 120V AC circulation pumps.

[Think]

It's definitely the 24v versions that I'm looking at now if it's the US or Jap version is questionable and I'll figure that out:

http://www.jab-tech.com/Iwaki-RD-30-...p-pr-3849.html

I believe that you do have a point with the heat dump problem but I think that if you can regulated the voltage, you can control the heat dump and hopefully the noise with not too much of a hit on pressure.

But since I have no experience dealing with this pump, the noise would really tick me off more then anything else so that's why I would like to see what people have experienced with these pumps.

BTW, I do appreciate all the replies.

Thank you.

So, anyone have any 1st hand experience with the RD20 and/or RD30?

[NaeKuh]

It's definitely the 24v versions that I'm looking at now if it's the US or Jap version is questionable and I'll figure that out:

http://www.jab-tech.com/Iwaki-RD-30-...p-pr-3849.html

I believe that you do have a point with the heat dump problem but I think that if you can regulated the voltage, you can control the heat dump and hopefully the noise with not too much of a hit on pressure.

But since I have no experience dealing with this pump, the noise would really tick me off more then anything else so that's why I would like to see what people have experienced with these pumps.

BTW, I do appreciate all the replies.

Thank you.

So, anyone have any 1st hand experience with the RD20 and/or RD30?

There big. So make sure you plan out.






Average setup for a RD-30:


You NEED a psu. I would highly recomend a meanwell S150-24.

As for noise, i dont see the need of having that pump on high. I have it on the lowest setting and it does fine. You WILL, and i cant emphasize this statement enough, NEED Petra's Gell Stuff. The thing vibrates like no other. And if you have it mounted on plate steel or alu, its gonna make a LOUD humm noise.

If its on the gell stuff, and you have it on low, then its the best pump ive owned.


Oh the meanwell is adjustable so u can vario it from 19-26V well thats my meanwell's range.

[Think]

There big. So make sure you plan out.

Average setup for a RD-30:


You NEED a psu. I would highly recomend a meanwell S150-24.

As for noise, i dont see the need of having that pump on high. I have it on the lowest setting and it does fine. You WILL, and i cant emphasize this statement enough, NEED Petra's Gell Stuff. The thing vibrates like no other. And if you have it mounted on plate steel or alu, its gonna make a LOUD humm noise.

If its on the gell stuff, and you have it on low, then its the best pump ive owned.


Oh the meanwell is adjustable so u can varies it from 19-26V well thats my meanwell's range.

There's plenty of room in the Silverstone TJ-10 so that should be ok. Thanks for the advice on the Gell.

Do you have any pictures on the completed system?

Thanks

[IanY]

I still don't get the point aboutr the heat dump. ssuming that you already have an uber water cooling system, which is a given since you are spending the money for an RD30, wouldn't the heat dump of the RD30 at whatever voltage be totally moot ? For example, if you have a 300 watt to 400 watt Thermochill and a 150 watt cpu, with a 50 watt pump heat dump, then where is the concern ?

[Martinm210]

FYI on the "MD" versions..

Here are the w (MD) curves:
http://www.iwakiamerica.com/nav/cm.aspx?cmid=187

They make three versions of each pump, a high pressure, standard, and low pressure version. The Z or high pressure is the version you want if you were to go with an MD pump.

The curves compare relatively closely to the 60HZ MD models. I have the 60Hz version in my latest estimator as well as the RD20, RD30 and RD30 at 18V.

I'd rather go with a RD series myself, but it's too bad you have to buy another PSU to run them.

[Think]

I'd rather go with a RD series myself, but it's too bad you have to buy another PSU to run them.

Yes it is

[billb]

I'm with MrToad on this one, you seem a little confused. The RD series pumps are Japanese made, high pressure, 24V DC pumps. You're thinking of the MD and WMD series pumps which are the Japanese and American motored, relatively low head pressure, 120V AC circulation pumps.

I'm well aware of Iwaki model numbers. That's why I'm trying to convince the OP to go with the MD20RZT...but I guess it's to late!

I just don't see the need for adding a 24v power supply that has to be connected to a wall outlet anyway. And a non-high pressure punp?????

Hmmm...I just superimposed the PQ curves...that's quite a pump!!!!
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8...tvs30rdoo5.jpg

This should be impressive!!!!!! 3+ GPM!

[nikhsub1]

I still don't get the point aboutr the heat dump. ssuming that you already have an uber water cooling system, which is a given since you are spending the money for an RD30, wouldn't the heat dump of the RD30 at whatever voltage be totally moot ? For example, if you have a 300 watt to 400 watt Thermochill and a 150 watt cpu, with a 50 watt pump heat dump, then where is the concern ?

I can tell you from experience it DOES make a difference.

[IanY]

I can tell you from experience it DOES make a difference.

Alright thanks, but I've lost most of my interest in the RD pumps.

[billb]

I can tell you from experience it DOES make a difference.

Anything, pump included, that transfers heat to the loop will cause the water temperature to be higher. Higher water temps means higher CPU (GPU, etc) temps and lower overclocks/benches.

It's not that a system that can put 150 watts into the water and it's WC setup remove 400 watts, It's all about water temps.

Without doing the calculations:
150 watts in, 400watts out = water at 5*C above ambient.
150 watts in + another 50 watts (from a bigger pump) = water at 10*c over ambient.
The system with the cooler water will run the CPU (GPU, etc) at a lower temperature, overclock, and bench higher.

[Think]

Well I ordered one and the powersupply. If worse comes to worse, I'll use it as a modified paint gun blaster for the neighbours dog. I'll let you know the results once I've completed the assembly and looks like I'll stick with swiftech GTX and GPU cooler.

I'll try to fit a triple in the case but I'm not sure it will fit, otherwise I'll do the two duals for sure.

Thanks.

[NaeKuh]

There's plenty of room in the Silverstone TJ-10 so that should be ok. Thanks for the advice on the Gell.

Do you have any pictures on the completed system?

Thanks

With this setup i get these temps:



Ambients in the 80-83F. When taken.


And i yes i see a difference in temps when i blast the thing on high. But i have it in my case where the fans from the rad are blowing the RD-30 shell cool.

The RD-30 shell is made of metal, and not plastic. The pump itself gets hot. So i dont think it would dump that much heat into the water when the exterior shell is getting hot itself. And if a PA120.3 cant handle an RD-30 + 1 chipset block + 1 overclocked quad. Then the watercooling industry is in serious problems.

[phelan1777]

Okay, here is the deal based on my 6 month + experience with a RD30 on three of the hottest chips on the market to date.

IE dual 8800GTS oced to 651 core, QX6700 @ 3.4GHz on 1.4V and the notorious HOT NB of the 680i chipset.

@ load on the QX6700 running BOINC 24/7 I get 50C+/- with dual MCW60s and a MCW30.

I use 3 120X38 SAN ACE/DENKIS @ 12V.

Over the three fans on a closed case YOU WILL NOT hear the RD30, running @ 18-20V the pump will NOT get "warm" if you ambient temps are decent, airflow in your case is decent.

All of this on a single T-Chill 120.3.

The RD has survived a power surge (MEANWELL took the hit instead) The pump when running @ 24 does get really warm to touch, HOWEVER you DON'T need to run it higher then 20V MAYBE. 18 should be more then enough.

now if you were running more then one RAD........this would more then likely change.

If you want a strong pump, that can handle just about any water loop a user could build, then its well worth the investment.

I was using a Cathar G5 before I got my Apogee GTX (bowed) and the only thing that changed other then temps by a few degrees, was the less restriction on the loop because of the change of block.

Here is my loop setup with said pump.

[Think]

Phelan1777 and NaeKuh , where are your hard drives located?

[phelan1777]

Phelan1777 and NaeKuh , where are your hard drives located?

This was before I mounted them.

I made my own mount, have to take pics.

[phelan1777]

Phelan1777
the cpu hose's are reversed, input is the center while out is the ceiling

No they are not reversed, i turned the block.

Ports on the Apogee GTX are not in the center of the block, look up pics you will see it.

[NaeKuh]

Phelan1777 and NaeKuh , where are your hard drives located?

Rear cage on my UFO.






These are during build pics. I cleaned up the wire management tons. Also added metal worm clamps over the tygon 1/2 stretch.

But just a general idea of where my hd's are.

[Pigeon]

heat rises so best have outflow on the highest point(closest to ceiling) like the chipset block
an from the cpu should go to the lower gpu

Heat may rise but these are Iwaki pumps we're talking about here. I don't think the water has a chance of working out which way up it is before it's round the loop and back where it started

[Maxspam]

HOLY THREAD RESSURECTION BATMAN. That aside.
Anyone got any internal shots of this pump?

[NaeKuh]

HOLY THREAD RESSURECTION BATMAN. That aside.
Anyone got any internal shots of this pump?

OMG i replied to it...

i feel like a noob...



yeah didnt see the ressurect