Innovatek Cool-Matic G80 - First Pics

[MaxxxRacer]

They've been doing so for 9 years and never had any issues with sales, and probably never will. The European mainstream market that they target isn't as obsessive as us...

obsessive isnt the word I would use.. I would word it in the following way

"They've been doing so for 9 years and never had any issues with sales, and probably never will. The European mainstream market that they target is, for the most part, ignorant to the meaning of the word corrosion"

[Marci]

Ahh... now I AVOIDED wording it like that... mainly cos they don't have corrosion issues either. Innovatek warranty is voided if not used with InnovaProtect... and InnovaProtect does actually work damn well as a corrosion inhibitor.

[mustang9621]

I'm itching to pull the trigger on two BFG/DD cards. That's a $1600 expenditure and I am having cold feet on the cost lol The problem is that one cannot just install a water block on any old retail card without voiding the warranty, which really sux. I personally own two MCW60s and I have even ordered the Swiftech adapter plates. However, I am not going to use those Swiftech items if I am going to immediately void all warranties. What a dilemma!

You can replace the stock cooling on evga cards with out voiding the warranty, if you need to rma the card, you have to re-install the stock cooler.

[IanY]

You can replace the stock cooling on evga cards with out voiding the warranty, if you need to rma the card, you have to re-install the stock cooler.

From now on, you do. There are stickers over the screws on the back of the PCB. This is true for EVGA, BFG and probably every single brand. Remove them and your warranty is gone! The old days of putting on whatever cooling you want are gone. Read Shamino's review on VR-Zone. Even peel the sticker slightly and forget about RMAs.

Blame it on Nvidia.

[IanY]

As my motto, dont think just buy.
As you can see from the reviews these are badass carrds!
its pretty much only $1400 n some change for the 2 cards.

Mr. Damnit,

Which brand of 8800GTX cards did you end up buying? Are you water cooling them right now?

[Sparky]

Ahh... now I AVOIDED wording it like that... mainly cos they don't have corrosion issues either. Innovatek warranty is voided if not used with InnovaProtect... and InnovaProtect does actually work damn well as a corrosion inhibitor.

That is probably the reason why they void the warranty if you don't use that innovaprotect stuff - they know stuff will corrode if something isn't used

[krueml_]

Our Cool-Matic G80 has been arrived..
The top is made of Delrin..

[JoeBar]

Apart from the alu, why do i believe that this will be something like DD's fullcover on the inside...?

[Jochenp]

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[Patriote]

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Agree!

[hopper]

i wana see it naked

[krueml_]

Will do it today or tomorrow..

[hopper]

krueml... what barb is on your storm in your user pic?

[krueml_]

DangerDen High-Flow 1/2" Fittings ..

sorry guys, the pics will not come before tomorrow ..

[krueml_]

Here is the naked Cool-Matic G80









It's the same architecture like the one of the Innovatek G-Flow ..

[spudnik]

that's a pretty big core!

[Anavel0]

Woh. O.o

[EnJoY]

But why the hell did they make it aluminum? Nobody has all aluminum blocks and parts in their loops, Everything else used in water cooling loops these days in terms of metals are copper, brass, and stainless steel. So this is going to corode, period, just not with itself like copper & alu blocks.

And that is the strangest internal design for a full cover block ive ever seen. Guess they wanted to give the water some 'excitement' on it's adventure through....

[Fairydust]

Granted a pure copper block is preferable also in my eyes, but as far as mixing goes that Innovatek block is not that catastrophic.

The aluminum is anodized, copper is crome or nickel plated and the anode smaller than the kathode. So unless you scratch it on the internal side, which will render the whole annodized layer useless, it not that much of a problem, certainly not with inhibitor additives.

Now I am not saying it is any good, the only reason why I would choose such a combination was for price or weight reasons, and at 108 € its ridiculously pricey compared to a full copper EK block for the G80.

Enjoy: Stainless steel can cause bimetall corrosion with copper too.

[Polizei]

I'm itching to pull the trigger on two BFG/DD cards. That's a $1600 expenditure and I am having cold feet on the cost lol The problem is that one cannot just install a water block on any old retail card without voiding the warranty, which really sux. I personally own two MCW60s and I have even ordered the Swiftech adapter plates. However, I am not going to use those Swiftech items if I am going to immediately void all warranties. What a dilemma!

If theyre eVGA cards, I dont think aftermarket cooling voids the warranty.

[syne_24]

Am I the only one who thinks the ports are restrictive as hell? (last pic) I mean they make it come out on a narrow path despite already coming in from a 90 degree bend. That can't be good.

[spudnik]

Innovatek uses nickel-plated copper for the core.

Unless this particular block is different from all the past ones...

[Garrett]

Am I the only one who thinks the ports are restrictive as hell? (last pic) I mean they make it come out on a narrow path despite already coming in from a 90 degree bend. That can't be good.

True... can anyone justify buying this when you can get the EK block?

[EnJoY]

Granted a pure copper block is preferable also in my eyes, but as far as mixing goes that Innovatek block is not that catastrophic.

The aluminum is anodized, copper is crome or nickel plated and the anode smaller than the kathode. So unless you scratch it on the internal side, which will render the whole annodized layer useless, it not that much of a problem, certainly not with inhibitor additives.

Now I am not saying it is any good, the only reason why I would choose such a combination was for price or weight reasons, and at 108 € its ridiculously pricey compared to a full copper EK block for the G80.

Enjoy: Stainless steel can cause bimetall corrosion with copper too.

Anodizing, even of the highest quality will come off eventually. Just look at the older Swiftech blocks or older Innovatek's that were run for several months and corroded even with inhibitors.

99% of the copper blocks used in our systems are NOT plated with anything. And you're also forgetting our radiators which use copper and brass and are not plated as well.

Some types of stainless steel will corrode, correct, but there are types that won't. I know Aqua Computer uses SS on some of it's pieces every now and then and they use the good type that will not corrode with copper. I know that any pumps that use it also use the quality variation.

We also forget the fact that a copper block, such as the Ek or DD, will outperform this block and for a cheaper price. So what's the point of this thing for all it's trouble and all it's expense?

[Fairydust]

Anodizing, even of the highest quality will come off eventually. Just look at the older Swiftech blocks or older Innovatek's that were run for several months and corroded even with inhibitors.

99% of the copper blocks used in our systems are NOT plated with anything. And you're also forgetting our radiators which use copper and brass and are not plated as well.

Some types of stainless steel will corrode, correct, but there are types that won't. I know Aqua Computer uses SS on some of it's pieces every now and then and they use the good type that will not corrode with copper. I know that any pumps that use it also use the quality variation.

We also forget the fact that a copper block, such as the Ek or DD, will outperform this block and for a cheaper price. So what's the point of this thing for all it's trouble and all it's expense?

I should have been more clear, I was talking about contact corrosion/bimetall corrosion of mixed metal blocks in particular not galvanic corrosion of mixed metal loops in general. We all know the problems of mixed metal loops, but mixed metal blocks are usually far worse in the corrosion department as a result of the direct contacting metals. In this particular point this block is not as bad as many other due to the reasons listed in my previous post.

Of course a pure copper alternative is preferable, as I already stated in my previous post. Although imho mixed metal loops are not bad, my oldest loop is mixed metal and has no signs of corrosion after 4 years, it's just that pure loops are better.